SoLoGHoST

OMG, so today was the day to replace the Alternator on my Nissan Maxima 1997 (which went dead about 3 weeks ago, and haven't driven since)... I got everything done up to the Alternator Bolt Removal process. Instead, the Bolt is completely stripped by trying to remove it. I used an closed-end wrench, and instead of the bolt budging even a millimeter, it stripped completely as I kept trying to remove it. ARGGG, I'm so mad, cause I'm filthy dirty as hell, and spent all day trying to remove this bolt, or atleast get it to budge! It's a 14mm bolt, so I even had to buy a special wrench at sears to be able to get to these bolts easily. But I have no luck for some reason when it comes to doing the easiest things!!

Now, the bolt is completely stripped as all hell. I can't even get a pair of vice-grips in there, because I can't remove the AC Compressor which is blocking every damn thing and making it so damn tight to work with. What can I do? On the other side of the Alternator (near the pulley's where the drive belt was taken off at) is this square-looking bolt wrapped around a screw. But I can't even get to this square bolt really cause it's too damn close to another area that can't be taken off. So a closed-end wrench wouldn't even fit on it. But the fact that it is square-shaped is awkward to me. Have tried to use an open-end wrench to turn it, but that isn't working either. It almost seems like the bolt is sodered onto the actual Alternator. I don't know, this is turning out to be the worst day of my life so far...

Anyone know of a way to remove the Bolt? There is really really not much space at all to work with. Perhaps Torching it off? Or getting a tiny electrical saw and removing it that way? Cause I'm pretty sure I'll need to get another one to replace it when I put in the new Alternator. Or maybe there is something else that I can do??

Ideas?

maxfever1987

iTrader: (93)

Try using a twelve point wrench, or a gear wrench, gear wrenches are great

SoLoGHoST

Yes, that is what I used, a 12pt Box end wrench, and it stripped it to all hell! I don't think any wrench will work now... or maybe I'm wrong. I spent atleast 5 hours with the 12pt Box End Wrench, and tried a Rachet Socket Wrench with a 14mm socket, tried vice grips (but couldn't really get them on the bolt, due to the small area I have to work with), tried regular pliers, everything I could think of!!! What are gear wrenches? How do they differ from what I've already tried? Honestly, if the 12 pt wrench didn't work, than what makes you think a gear wrench would work? And like I said, it's completely stripped, not just the corners either.

Argggg

SoLoGHoST

Maybe there is something I can do to bring back the edges? Maybe using sandpaper to file it? Or a filer of some sort that can be used to fix the bolt perhaps?? Anyone ever do this? If so, what kind of sandpaper or filer should I use?

SoLoGHoST

Well, sorry to triple post here, but just wanted to say that I have just bought this: http://www.jbtoolsales.com/irwin-539...-8-drive-bulk/ which is a bolt extractor, so hoping this works when I get it.

maxfever1987

iTrader: (93)

If anything, just use a hack saw and cut the bolt

T_Behr904

You should have unbolted and dropped the a/c compressor out of the way before trying to remove the alternator. Do that so you can have more room to get at that stripped bolt.

SoLoGHoST

Yes, that is what I did, but the A/C Compressor only comes down so far and won't come down anymore without removing the whole A/C Compressor completely. So, Yes, I dropped it down, moved it out of the way, and got more space for that bolt before I even started trying to remove the Alternator Bolt. So, CHECK! And even with the A/C Compressor on a Jack Stand, being lowered and slightly out of the way (which is all I can do, because it doesn't move much), there is barely enough room to move around in there.

Unfortunately, the bolt just won't budge. It is being really stubborn! I even put WD40 on it, after about an hour of trying to remove it. It is completely stuck bro and now it is completely Stripped also!

@maxfever1987 - If I use a saw to cut what I can off of the bolt, how do I get the pin out? I believe it still has threads within it (that is, inside of the place it is screwed into). So, how will I remove the pin completely after sawing off what I can of the bolt?

I'm open to any ideas that anyone has... Please somebody help me...

CRiME

iTrader: (21)

I used one of those to bail me out when a swaybar endlink bolt got rounded away on my brother's 5th gen. It worked when absolutely nothing else would. I'd try that before taking a saw to it.

Edit- taken from your other thread, this may be an option too while you await the arrival of your extractor. That is, if you have enough working space to pull this off. I've never had to replace an alty, so I can't confirm if this is feasible or not:

SoLoGHoST

Yeah, I actually began to think of this option myself about 1 hour ago... duhhh. Thanks! I'll just saw off the square nut on the screw at the other end and that will probably do the trick! Gonna try it out tomorrow. Will let you all know how it goes.

Cheers

Climaxx

iTrader: (4)

That square is what the bolt threads onto. You can try to saw it off, but it will be difficult.

GGENIUS

iTrader: (1)

you dont need to support the a/c compressor with a jack stand. it will support it self and youll need to manipulate it to get to the alternator bolts easily. you should have used a socket and ratchet to begin with.

schmellyfart

iTrader: (46)

Remove the radiator fans and you should have enough room to lower the ac compressor below the bumper.

SoLoGHoST

Yeah, i definitely had fun with that square nut. Damn right it's difficult!! First off, the hack-saws I have won't even fit in that tight space, so no go with the saw. But than I had another idea, DRILL IT OFF! So I began using a drill and a hammer with a flat head screwdriver to kind of knock parts off. This was not so successful, however, I drilled the hell out of it the best I could, until it got too late and called it quits. I am now convinced that the square nut is WELDED onto the actual alternator. I drilled 1 whole side away... into the actual screw itself... and still it isn't even able to come off even a little bit!

So, now, the part that the square nut goes into is able to be turned (the part on the alternator itself) half-way a bit. Dunno if that helps any. I haven't tried to remove the bolt yet from the other end, as it's quite late here and figured I'd give it another shot on Tuesday (since I have work all day tomorrow). But the part on the actual alternator underneath of the square nut is moving around now, it wasn't before... so I guess I've gotten somewhere with the drill. It might even be possible that I'll be able to turn it from the other side (the bolt side) now. Not sure... will find out on Tuesday... arggg!

As for the a/c compressor just dangling without being on a jack stand. YES, I've done this also and moved it around to gain more space, it was not helpful.

SoLoGHoST

If I'm able to remove the pin that holds the alternator in place, than I'm definitely going to need a new steel rod with threads on the end and another nut (basically, the same bolt that I'm trying to remove from the old alternator). Where can I get one of those??

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

Hopes and dreams.

M in KC

First off I would try and strike the head of the bolt with a hammer and a drift or a punch. Or just a hammer if that is all you can maneuver. Often times the shock of the stirke will loosen the rust and corossion up so the bolt can turn freer and/or allow the penetrating oil to be more effective.

Do you have enough room to get a dremel tool in there to cut a groove in the bolt's head.? If so, you might be able to use a drag link socket and a ratchet the same way you would a regular socket and ratchet. Google drag link socket and you will see what I mean. In the mean time I would be saturating that bolt with a penetrating oil of your choice, my preference are 1)Kroil, 2) PB Blaster and 3) SeaFoam's Deep Creep.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

This should be a lesson for all DIY's.

Use of the correct tool in the first place would not have landed you in this position.
A 12 point wrench or even socket for that matter was not the correct tool to use on a bolt that size.

A 6 point 1/2 drive socket was the correct tool. The 12 point only grabs the tips, the 6 point would have grabbed the whole hex head.

Good luck with the repair, that's a nasty area to get a bolt out of.

SoLoGHoST

Well, I dunno what to do anymore, so I've decided to just take it to an auto mechanic to replace now. I guess I've just got tired of trying with it, so I give up! Hopefully they will have the tools to get the thing out easily... Cause I'm really hoping that they don't have to drill it out, cause than I'll be looking at a much higher cost, I'm sure!

Thanks for all of your help and I really wish I would've started out with the 6 point 1/2 drive socket, but looking at a video on youtube for the same make and model and year of my car, shows this guy using a 14 mm Box end Angle Dent Wrench to get it out, which is what I first attempted with, which is what started stripping the bolt. Did seem kinda weird that it wasn't fully on the bolt (as you already mentioned), but it did fit on it, and seemed to be the right tool...

Hoping that this auto mechanic that I'll be taking it to tomorrow will be better at it than me...

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

The video is correct. the bolt at the bottom is 14mm to begin with. If you have something otherwise, that bolt was replaced at some point. Any bolt that you find on the 4th gen that needs an odd number socket is not the original bolt. The only exception is the wheel nuts...

SoLoGHoST

Well, I had an auto mechanic do it today... costed me $260 dollars in labor. Was originally $200, but because I had drilled into the nut on the other side (that was welded onto the metal piece as I thought), the price costed me $60 dollars more. Well, in any case, lesson learned! Also, found out that I need a new exhaust (atleast part of it needs to be replaced) and other various problems... lmfao. This car is draining my wallet to death, but what to expect from a car that I bought for $400 dollars and has 200,000 miles on it??

GGENIUS

iTrader: (1)

i would suggest not trying anything else by yourself, honestly.

SoLoGHoST

ROFLMFAO, true true!

GGENIUS

iTrader: (1)

lots of org members in our area that can help you if you dont have any friends that can.

SoLoGHoST

NO WAY!! REALLY?? That would be AWESOME! I live alone and work a lot, have a 5 year old daughter, but me and my daughters mom are separated... so I don't get her as much as I would like to. But I'm really loving this car, especially for what I paid for it, which was a deal and a half! I previously owned 2 Chevy Cavaliers (1996, and 2004), but the 96 had a head gasket leak and well, got rid of it and financed a brand new 2004 (back in 05), after 2 years some idiot busted a left in front of me from opposing traffic and bam, the car was totalled! But after buying a Nissan Maxima (even if it's old), I'm loving it way more than both of my Cavaliers put together.

I don't really have any friends, but I'm a straight-forward and honest person, so I really don't know why... I have tons of tools myself that I've been purchasing like crazy for doing work to the car, but without help, they will probably be collecting dust, unfortunately!

That would be awesome if I could find friends that know about Nissan Maximas and we could even help each other out! I'm all for it! Anyone interested in being my Maxima Friend, or just a friend in general, call me anytime: 267-592-2148 or reply to this topic.

Cheers

GGENIUS

iTrader: (1)

im from the trenton area, right over the bridge into NJ, and do lots of work at my house. hit me up if you have questions or need a hand, can probably be arranged.

SoLoGHoST

Ok, thanks. I live in South Philadelphia actually, and the Walt Whitman Bridge is literally within walking distance of my house. About 15 minutes away if walking, 2 mins if driving. But trenton I believe is closer to Northeast Philadelphia so it's a bit more of a ways... In any case, I don't know how I'm going to hit you up? I suppose on this forum.

Thanks

redcross631

Wow i've had to change my alternator 3 times in a month and never had such an issue. If your wrench slips once, do not bother trying again using the same tool 'cuz it'll slip again and you'll end up with a stripped nut/bolt.

Even though your problem is already solved just know that the square nut isn't welded and but can't be turned(wish i could find a pic and show you what i'm talking about). The bolt going through it is supposed to be loosened from the back side(using a 6pt socket) after you take the AC compressor off/get it out of the way(which in this case seems like what you stripped). Always better to watch a video or read a write up/thread before doing something.

Not sure if you're on nycmaximas btw. Plenty of members from the tristate area that could be of help to you.

S1cTech

pics? I bet there is away to get it out. The last resort would be drilling it, but that would be very hard to get a drill in there.

SoLoGHoST

Honestly, I took it to an auto mechanic, and he said he didn't have any problem getting it out. Wouldn't tell me what he did exactly to get it out, just said that they have their own tools and ways of getting things done... I suppose if they told me than that would mean that I would be learning something, so they don't want me to learn how to do things myself, since they are in the business of doing things for others at a price... Shame! Seems that there are way too many auto mechanics that don't tell you much about how to do things that you pay for! They are only good at telling you what is wrong with your car I suppose!

Hell, I bought a side view mirror at a junkyard, and was waiting by the car when the guy came and told me that I can't watch him take out the side view mirror, or else he wouldn't take it out and I wouldn't get it. Basically, they wanted to charge me $25 dollars to install it into my car to begin with, which I was like, no, I'll just do it myself. So, he was being a real jerk about it, and wouldn't let me learn anything, so I had to learn how to do it the hard way (which really wasn't that hard anyways). It's just the principle of the whole thing that stinks to high heaven! People so bent on not showing you a damn thing because of money! That's life! It's really kinda sad though!

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

I would have just left. What a douche.
Rather take it out myself anyways.
That's why I like junkyards..you get to learn how to remove stuff without worrying about breaking things getting to it. Tried to get out a dash piece that had been in the sun for a while..smashed it on accident and moved on to the next one.
He's not the only junkyard in the your area, I'm sure.

plugeye

welcome to the wonderful world of maintaining a 4th gen maxima.
there are few simple jobs on this car in my experience.
one positive is when i get rid of this car it will make the toyota or honda that i replace it with a breeze to work on

Watchdogg

All transverse mounted v6s are a challenge to work on has been my experience! OP having owned some really crappy cars that I had to repair to get to work or walk, I feel your pain. Start buying some quality tools a few at a time beginning with sockets and wrenches, craftman or better. As long as you do not lend them to anyone they will last upu a lifetime.

GGENIUS

iTrader: (1)

when i was workin at the last shop i was at, customers would watch me working on their car all the time. not all shops are douchebags like that. a good shop will let the customer know anything they want.

jholley

iTrader: (13)

If the OE side view mirror has never been removed then you may have a problem. Water gets into these exterior mirrors causing the mounting bolts to rust.
I broke my passenger side mirror at ~80,000 miles so those bolts came out easily. Last year while painting the left doors I had to remove the driver side mirror at 148,000 miles and it was a PITA. I flooded it with PB blaster for days but the OE bolts still broke within the mirror's frame. Drilling those tiny bolts out is difficult. Instead I got a broken OE mirror from the classifieds that had a good frame. Just needed to switch the frame and keep the mirror and body. For both side mirrors I used new bolts covered with antiseize compound.