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-   -   So it's not a coil pack....it's much much worse...F Me! (https://maxima.org/forums/4th-generation-maxima-1995-1999/634172-so-its-not-coil-pack-its-much-much-worse-f-me.html)

VTonmymind Jun 1, 2011 04:04 PM

So it's not a coil pack....it's much much worse...F Me!
 
Pulled some codes a while back.

6 slows and 5 fast (0605) Cylinder 4 misfire
2 slows and 1 fast (0201) Ignition coil and power transistor
3 slows and 4 fast (0304) Knock sensor

After pulling that madness, I got myself a coil pack, 6 new platinum plugs, a knock sensor and a fuel filter for shyts and giggles.

After dropping my rig off hoping these goodies would make her right as rain, they didn't. Popped the coil pack in and 6 plugs and nope. Mech did a compression test and it was low as balls. Could have bad valves or rings he said. For all that it takes to fix that, might as well get a new motor, he added. shyt...really? Hmmm.

Any idea's as to what else it could be before I start exploring shyt canning the car for parts or getting a new motor (which I'm not to keen on, as I'd just rather get another car with AWD as I live in snow country)

thanks for any help or insights you can provide me with.

asand1 Jun 1, 2011 04:27 PM

Get w second opinion on compression or do it yourself. If its low, the first mechanical is correct. Low comp is rings or valves. Either way, its cheaper to get a motor.

VTonmymind Jun 1, 2011 05:05 PM

Roger that. 2nd compression test on the order. If it fails again though....guess it'll be time for a little soul searching. All in all the car is in great shape.

What do you y'all suppose I can get for her in this state if I don't wanna go down the new motor road?

Blackwind Jun 1, 2011 05:56 PM

milage?

maxed_out_99 Jun 1, 2011 06:38 PM

A for sale sign
It's really not worth it IMO
3.5 swap da biotch

VTonmymind Jun 1, 2011 07:22 PM


Originally Posted by Blackwind (Post 8067575)
milage?

Bout to turn 150K

Originally Posted by maxed_out_99 (Post 8067653)
A for sale sign
It's really not worth it IMO
3.5 swap da biotch

Yup, could 3.5 that ish but would it be worth it? Not up here. The stock torque right now is good in the winter. Beef it up, it'll be too much up front and might as well get an AWD drive, which by the way, I'm craving like a mofo. say either in the form of a subaru legacy GT or an infiniti g X.

ef9 Jun 1, 2011 10:22 PM

Screw compression test, I would do a leakdown test.

VTonmymind Jun 2, 2011 03:34 AM


Originally Posted by ef9 (Post 8067858)
Screw compression test, I would do a leakdown test.

Can you further explain please

VTonmymind Jun 2, 2011 03:55 AM

Oh and after said leak test would I basically arrive at the same conclusion (that I need a new motor) or could it be something else?

cashoit Jun 2, 2011 06:10 AM

find a used motor for 300 or 400. Drop it in for another 200-300. Boom 600 bucks u back on the road with a younger motor.

Whats the problem here???

asand1 Jun 2, 2011 06:51 AM

A leakdown test will tell you whether its the rings or valves. Either way a used engine will be cheaper. You will be paying more diagnostic to get more info than u need.
Low comp=new engine

njmaxseltd Jun 2, 2011 06:51 AM


Originally Posted by VTonmymind (Post 8067454)
Mech did a compression test and it was low as balls.

Numbers?

maxed_out_99 Jun 2, 2011 06:21 PM


Originally Posted by VTonmymind (Post 8067689)
Bout to turn 150K

Yup, could 3.5 that ish but would it be worth it? Not up here. The stock torque right now is good in the winter. Beef it up, it'll be too much up front and might as well get an AWD drive, which by the way, I'm craving like a mofo. say either in the form of a subaru legacy GT or an infiniti g X.

mmmm legacy GT:drool: what year?

IslandMax Jun 2, 2011 07:03 PM

When doing the compression test, squirt some oil into the spark plug hole, if it helps then its bad rings (oil seals them a little when you squirt it in). To check if its the valves, whichever cylinder your checking, spin the motor so the intake and exhaust valves are both closed (cylinder is top dead center) and put some pressure in the cyl through the spark plug hole. If you hear air leaking through the intake then the intake valve/s are bad, if you hear the air leaking through the exhaust then the exhaust valve/s are bad.

ef9 Jun 3, 2011 12:04 AM

Just do a leakdown test. If it's the valve seals, just replace the heads, you don't need to replace the entire motor.

VTonmymind Jun 3, 2011 08:51 PM


Originally Posted by njmaxseltd (Post 8068041)
Numbers?

right around 25. Low as balls.

VTonmymind Jun 3, 2011 09:04 PM


Originally Posted by maxed_out_99 (Post 8068599)
mmmm legacy GT:drool: what year?

kinda warming up to the new gens (10 and 11) but can't go wrong with 2005-2009

Originally Posted by IslandMax (Post 8068626)
When doing the compression test, squirt some oil into the spark plug hole, if it helps then its bad rings (oil seals them a little when you squirt it in). To check if its the valves, whichever cylinder your checking, spin the motor so the intake and exhaust valves are both closed (cylinder is top dead center) and put some pressure in the cyl through the spark plug hole. If you hear air leaking through the intake then the intake valve/s are bad, if you hear the air leaking through the exhaust then the exhaust valve/s are bad.

very helpful, thank you


Originally Posted by ef9 (Post 8068797)
Just do a leakdown test. If it's the valve seals, just replace the heads, you don't need to replace the entire motor.

how much do you reckon replacing the heads would cost?

FallenOne Jun 3, 2011 09:57 PM


Originally Posted by VTonmymind (Post 8069670)
kinda warming up to the new gens (10 and 11) but can't go wrong with 2005-2009

very helpful, thank you


how much do you reckon replacing the heads would cost?

too much. work. time. money.

New VQ.

Just drop in a new 3.0 with something like 20-100K and call it a day.

I'm going to be doing a compression test soon here.. I think 430K miles is all mine's got in her... :(

ef9 Jun 4, 2011 12:27 AM

I'm sure you can get some decent heads for $200 or less.

Swap them in yourself, save you a ton of cash.

VTonmymind Jun 4, 2011 12:09 PM

I think I may be straight up done with her. Had her for a good 6 years and she has done real good for me. Have been wanting to get into something new though ever since moving back up to VT.

So...if I were to sell her straight up..what do you suppose would be a fair price to ask for her?

asand1 Jun 4, 2011 03:49 PM


Originally Posted by ef9 (Post 8068797)
Just do a leakdown test. If it's the valve seals, just replace the heads, you don't need to replace the entire motor.

Not cost effective. Replacing the motor is easier and cheaper than doing a valve job or even head gaskets on a VQ. That means more down time and work for the DIYer, and more money (hours) at a shop. Gaskets are expensive from what Ive seen, a machine shop will have to re-cut the seats in the head, and dress or replace the valves. Not cheap. A lower mileage motor is $450.00 tops.

asand1 Jun 4, 2011 03:57 PM


Originally Posted by ef9 (Post 8069766)
I'm sure you can get some decent heads for $200 or less.

Swap them in yourself, save you a ton of cash.

Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com
Plus gaskets $287.73 from courtesy, NOT WORTH IT!!
You also have to drop the oil pan, pull the outer timing cover, timing chain and sprockets, and inner cover.

Thats if the rings are good.

VTonmymind Jun 11, 2011 05:38 AM


Originally Posted by FallenOne (Post 8069714)
too much. work. time. money.

New VQ.

Just drop in a new 3.0 with something like 20-100K and call it a day.

I'm going to be doing a compression test soon here.. I think 430K miles is all mine's got in her... :(

How much of a plug and play is the VQ 3.0?

VTonmymind Jun 11, 2011 05:45 AM

Stupid question..sorry..meant to refer to the 2000-2001 A33 DE-K motor v. our DE.

Xfactor22 Jun 12, 2011 03:30 PM


Originally Posted by FallenOne (Post 8069714)
.. I think 430K miles is all mine's got in her... :(

DAMN:eek:


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