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So it's not a coil pack....it's much much worse...F Me!
Pulled some codes a while back.
6 slows and 5 fast (0605) Cylinder 4 misfire 2 slows and 1 fast (0201) Ignition coil and power transistor 3 slows and 4 fast (0304) Knock sensor After pulling that madness, I got myself a coil pack, 6 new platinum plugs, a knock sensor and a fuel filter for shyts and giggles. After dropping my rig off hoping these goodies would make her right as rain, they didn't. Popped the coil pack in and 6 plugs and nope. Mech did a compression test and it was low as balls. Could have bad valves or rings he said. For all that it takes to fix that, might as well get a new motor, he added. shyt...really? Hmmm. Any idea's as to what else it could be before I start exploring shyt canning the car for parts or getting a new motor (which I'm not to keen on, as I'd just rather get another car with AWD as I live in snow country) thanks for any help or insights you can provide me with. |
Get w second opinion on compression or do it yourself. If its low, the first mechanical is correct. Low comp is rings or valves. Either way, its cheaper to get a motor.
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Roger that. 2nd compression test on the order. If it fails again though....guess it'll be time for a little soul searching. All in all the car is in great shape.
What do you y'all suppose I can get for her in this state if I don't wanna go down the new motor road? |
milage?
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A for sale sign
It's really not worth it IMO 3.5 swap da biotch |
Originally Posted by Blackwind
(Post 8067575)
milage?
Originally Posted by maxed_out_99
(Post 8067653)
A for sale sign
It's really not worth it IMO 3.5 swap da biotch |
Screw compression test, I would do a leakdown test.
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Originally Posted by ef9
(Post 8067858)
Screw compression test, I would do a leakdown test.
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Oh and after said leak test would I basically arrive at the same conclusion (that I need a new motor) or could it be something else?
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find a used motor for 300 or 400. Drop it in for another 200-300. Boom 600 bucks u back on the road with a younger motor.
Whats the problem here??? |
A leakdown test will tell you whether its the rings or valves. Either way a used engine will be cheaper. You will be paying more diagnostic to get more info than u need.
Low comp=new engine |
Originally Posted by VTonmymind
(Post 8067454)
Mech did a compression test and it was low as balls.
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Originally Posted by VTonmymind
(Post 8067689)
Bout to turn 150K
Yup, could 3.5 that ish but would it be worth it? Not up here. The stock torque right now is good in the winter. Beef it up, it'll be too much up front and might as well get an AWD drive, which by the way, I'm craving like a mofo. say either in the form of a subaru legacy GT or an infiniti g X. |
When doing the compression test, squirt some oil into the spark plug hole, if it helps then its bad rings (oil seals them a little when you squirt it in). To check if its the valves, whichever cylinder your checking, spin the motor so the intake and exhaust valves are both closed (cylinder is top dead center) and put some pressure in the cyl through the spark plug hole. If you hear air leaking through the intake then the intake valve/s are bad, if you hear the air leaking through the exhaust then the exhaust valve/s are bad.
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Just do a leakdown test. If it's the valve seals, just replace the heads, you don't need to replace the entire motor.
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Originally Posted by njmaxseltd
(Post 8068041)
Numbers?
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Originally Posted by maxed_out_99
(Post 8068599)
mmmm legacy GT:drool: what year?
Originally Posted by IslandMax
(Post 8068626)
When doing the compression test, squirt some oil into the spark plug hole, if it helps then its bad rings (oil seals them a little when you squirt it in). To check if its the valves, whichever cylinder your checking, spin the motor so the intake and exhaust valves are both closed (cylinder is top dead center) and put some pressure in the cyl through the spark plug hole. If you hear air leaking through the intake then the intake valve/s are bad, if you hear the air leaking through the exhaust then the exhaust valve/s are bad.
Originally Posted by ef9
(Post 8068797)
Just do a leakdown test. If it's the valve seals, just replace the heads, you don't need to replace the entire motor.
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Originally Posted by VTonmymind
(Post 8069670)
kinda warming up to the new gens (10 and 11) but can't go wrong with 2005-2009
very helpful, thank you how much do you reckon replacing the heads would cost? New VQ. Just drop in a new 3.0 with something like 20-100K and call it a day. I'm going to be doing a compression test soon here.. I think 430K miles is all mine's got in her... :( |
I'm sure you can get some decent heads for $200 or less.
Swap them in yourself, save you a ton of cash. |
I think I may be straight up done with her. Had her for a good 6 years and she has done real good for me. Have been wanting to get into something new though ever since moving back up to VT.
So...if I were to sell her straight up..what do you suppose would be a fair price to ask for her? |
Originally Posted by ef9
(Post 8068797)
Just do a leakdown test. If it's the valve seals, just replace the heads, you don't need to replace the entire motor.
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Originally Posted by ef9
(Post 8069766)
I'm sure you can get some decent heads for $200 or less.
Swap them in yourself, save you a ton of cash. Plus gaskets $287.73 from courtesy, NOT WORTH IT!! You also have to drop the oil pan, pull the outer timing cover, timing chain and sprockets, and inner cover. Thats if the rings are good. |
Originally Posted by FallenOne
(Post 8069714)
too much. work. time. money.
New VQ. Just drop in a new 3.0 with something like 20-100K and call it a day. I'm going to be doing a compression test soon here.. I think 430K miles is all mine's got in her... :( |
Stupid question..sorry..meant to refer to the 2000-2001 A33 DE-K motor v. our DE.
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Originally Posted by FallenOne
(Post 8069714)
.. I think 430K miles is all mine's got in her... :(
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