Hard to start/ weak start
07-29-2010, 11:59 AM
#1
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Hard to start/ weak start
Hey guys, didn't want to repost/take over Travis' thread so I made my own since the circumstances are somewhat different. Here's what I have.
Alright so this is the 97 I purchased January 2009 with a locked engine. Installed a used engine with 120k miles on it. I rode the Max that this engine belonged to and it had nice power, smooth, and sounded great. The engine is from a 99 Cali spec, I installed the 97 Fed LIM.
So finally in April 2009 I started prepping to engine to go in the Max, I did the following things while it was out.
Replaced:
Water pump
Thermostat
Drive Belts
Valve cover gaskets/tube seals/grommets
Lower and upper intake manifold gaskets
EGR/EGR pipe gaskets + pipe declogging
IACV Gasket + cleaning
TB Gasket + cleaning
2 bottoms mounts
Both oil pan gaskets/RTV
Rear Main seal
Thoroughly cleaned/sanded all ground points and connections
Finally dropped the engine in, and it runs and has alright power and smoothness but takes forever to start. Today I redid the lower and upper intake manifold gaskets to fix a vacuum leak I had and it fixed the leak but now the thing is lacking power and is still starting up the same. For reference, the CEL is on and last I checked its for the front O2 Sensor. Anyone have this issue before?
Here's a video which was also posted on Travis' thread.
Alright so this is the 97 I purchased January 2009 with a locked engine. Installed a used engine with 120k miles on it. I rode the Max that this engine belonged to and it had nice power, smooth, and sounded great. The engine is from a 99 Cali spec, I installed the 97 Fed LIM.
So finally in April 2009 I started prepping to engine to go in the Max, I did the following things while it was out.
Replaced:
Water pump
Thermostat
Drive Belts
Valve cover gaskets/tube seals/grommets
Lower and upper intake manifold gaskets
EGR/EGR pipe gaskets + pipe declogging
IACV Gasket + cleaning
TB Gasket + cleaning
2 bottoms mounts
Both oil pan gaskets/RTV
Rear Main seal
Thoroughly cleaned/sanded all ground points and connections
Finally dropped the engine in, and it runs and has alright power and smoothness but takes forever to start. Today I redid the lower and upper intake manifold gaskets to fix a vacuum leak I had and it fixed the leak but now the thing is lacking power and is still starting up the same. For reference, the CEL is on and last I checked its for the front O2 Sensor. Anyone have this issue before?
Here's a video which was also posted on Travis' thread.
07-29-2010, 12:28 PM
#3
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i will assume u already have looked at the crank sensors and CPS for any fouling.
It does sound/feel like there is a vaccum leak on the car somewhere.
Is that the same engine that was locked up? I had trouble understanding the history of the car in your original post.
Thats a hard start and could be from a weak starter but it def seems like the starter is spinning. Try adding a ground from neg battery term to tranny housing
It does sound/feel like there is a vaccum leak on the car somewhere.
Is that the same engine that was locked up? I had trouble understanding the history of the car in your original post.
Thats a hard start and could be from a weak starter but it def seems like the starter is spinning. Try adding a ground from neg battery term to tranny housing
07-29-2010, 01:05 PM
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i will assume u already have looked at the crank sensors and CPS for any fouling.
It does sound/feel like there is a vaccum leak on the car somewhere.
Is that the same engine that was locked up? I had trouble understanding the history of the car in your original post.
Thats a hard start and could be from a weak starter but it def seems like the starter is spinning. Try adding a ground from neg battery term to tranny housing
It does sound/feel like there is a vaccum leak on the car somewhere.
Is that the same engine that was locked up? I had trouble understanding the history of the car in your original post.
Thats a hard start and could be from a weak starter but it def seems like the starter is spinning. Try adding a ground from neg battery term to tranny housing
Now that you mention a ground to the transmission. I noticed there was a loose black wire bolted to the frame next to the trans but not anywhere else. I tried looking for the other connection but I couldn't find where the cable plugs to... My other Max is a 5spd so I couldn't check that one
07-29-2010, 01:14 PM
#5
i will assume u already have looked at the crank sensors and CPS for any fouling.
It does sound/feel like there is a vaccum leak on the car somewhere.
Is that the same engine that was locked up? I had trouble understanding the history of the car in your original post.
Thats a hard start and could be from a weak starter but it def seems like the starter is spinning. Try adding a ground from neg battery term to tranny housing
It does sound/feel like there is a vaccum leak on the car somewhere.
Is that the same engine that was locked up? I had trouble understanding the history of the car in your original post.
Thats a hard start and could be from a weak starter but it def seems like the starter is spinning. Try adding a ground from neg battery term to tranny housing
07-29-2010, 01:42 PM
#6
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+1. Definitely sounds like there is a vacuum leak in the system. Just from the sound of the reving seems like there is a hose not connected. If you reved it and release it, does it drop low and cut off or it keeps itself on? I would put my money on a leak somewhere though....
07-29-2010, 07:17 PM
#7
it idles fine and stays on if I rev and release... doesnt even attempt to shut off. Trust me, the vac leak it had before was worse. What you hear in the video is one of the pulleys thats making noise. I was too tired to go over my work last night but the slight miss isn't an issue, I can take care of that. Its just the starting thats really bugging me.
07-29-2010, 08:36 PM
#8
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I almost posted this info in a different thread but because of your video I'm pretty sure I just fixed this problem on my 97 GLE, though I'm not sure why.
In the process of rewiring my remote starter in order to have the cabin fan come on like it should (red/yellow wire on switch), I found that if I took power off of the red/blue wire the car would turn over just like on your video and eventually it would start. As long as I had power being fed to the red/blue wire it would fire up like normal <1/2 sec.
What I find odd is that the FSM shows the power to that wire comes from the same wire that runs the starter although it doesn't look quite the same as the other ones.
Anyway, if the grounding suggestion doesn't pan out try running a clip-lead between the black/white wire to the starter and the red/blue wire which goes off to the theft system and one other place as well. If that fixes the starting problem then I would guess that it's the switch if it doesn't it may still have something to do with one of those two connections I mentioned earlier.
Good luck.....we're all counting on you.
In the process of rewiring my remote starter in order to have the cabin fan come on like it should (red/yellow wire on switch), I found that if I took power off of the red/blue wire the car would turn over just like on your video and eventually it would start. As long as I had power being fed to the red/blue wire it would fire up like normal <1/2 sec.
What I find odd is that the FSM shows the power to that wire comes from the same wire that runs the starter although it doesn't look quite the same as the other ones.
Anyway, if the grounding suggestion doesn't pan out try running a clip-lead between the black/white wire to the starter and the red/blue wire which goes off to the theft system and one other place as well. If that fixes the starting problem then I would guess that it's the switch if it doesn't it may still have something to do with one of those two connections I mentioned earlier.
Good luck.....we're all counting on you.
07-30-2010, 02:59 AM
#9
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Ok here what, if you already ohmed out your CKPS sensors and they are within spec, I would check the fuel pressure. If the pressure is good and the idling is smooth which means your coils are good, I would swap out the FPR next. Yeah I know that I mention the FPR a lot but that part is a difference maker in a lot of startup problems that's unrelated to bad sensors.
I was also discussing the fuel pressure with a buddy of mine, he's gonna let me borrow his gauge to check what it is. Correct me if I'm wrong, fuel pressure should be 40-44psi correct?
I almost posted this info in a different thread but because of your video I'm pretty sure I just fixed this problem on my 97 GLE, though I'm not sure why.
In the process of rewiring my remote starter in order to have the cabin fan come on like it should (red/yellow wire on switch), I found that if I took power off of the red/blue wire the car would turn over just like on your video and eventually it would start. As long as I had power being fed to the red/blue wire it would fire up like normal <1/2 sec.
What I find odd is that the FSM shows the power to that wire comes from the same wire that runs the starter although it doesn't look quite the same as the other ones.
Anyway, if the grounding suggestion doesn't pan out try running a clip-lead between the black/white wire to the starter and the red/blue wire which goes off to the theft system and one other place as well. If that fixes the starting problem then I would guess that it's the switch if it doesn't it may still have something to do with one of those two connections I mentioned earlier.
Good luck.....we're all counting on you.
In the process of rewiring my remote starter in order to have the cabin fan come on like it should (red/yellow wire on switch), I found that if I took power off of the red/blue wire the car would turn over just like on your video and eventually it would start. As long as I had power being fed to the red/blue wire it would fire up like normal <1/2 sec.
What I find odd is that the FSM shows the power to that wire comes from the same wire that runs the starter although it doesn't look quite the same as the other ones.
Anyway, if the grounding suggestion doesn't pan out try running a clip-lead between the black/white wire to the starter and the red/blue wire which goes off to the theft system and one other place as well. If that fixes the starting problem then I would guess that it's the switch if it doesn't it may still have something to do with one of those two connections I mentioned earlier.
Good luck.....we're all counting on you.
Thanks guys!
07-30-2010, 06:14 AM
#10
Actually, to be fair I never ohmed them out, I just simply cleaned them. Do you happen to know what the resistance should be?
I was also discussing the fuel pressure with a buddy of mine, he's gonna let me borrow his gauge to check what it is. Correct me if I'm wrong, fuel pressure should be 40-44psi correct?
Well, although I hardly understood your post, lol sorry its 4:59 am and I just got home... I will definitely re read it when I am more awake. Since you say it solved your issue which was the same as mine, I will DEF try whatever you're suggesting lol
Thanks guys!
I was also discussing the fuel pressure with a buddy of mine, he's gonna let me borrow his gauge to check what it is. Correct me if I'm wrong, fuel pressure should be 40-44psi correct?
Well, although I hardly understood your post, lol sorry its 4:59 am and I just got home... I will definitely re read it when I am more awake. Since you say it solved your issue which was the same as mine, I will DEF try whatever you're suggesting lol
Thanks guys!
The CKPS POS by the transmission housing doesn't have a resistance readin gin the FSM. It says that it should be 5V putting a screwdriver at the tip.
Fuel pressure should be between 34 psi at idle and 43 psi when turned off. If these values are not met, replace FPR.
07-30-2010, 06:18 AM
#11
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The CKPS REF by the pulley should read 470 - 570 ohms.
The CKPS POS by the transmission housing doesn't have a resistance readin gin the FSM. It says that it should be 5V putting a screwdriver at the tip.
Fuel pressure should be between 34 psi at idle and 43 psi when turned off. If these values are not met, replace FPR.
The CKPS POS by the transmission housing doesn't have a resistance readin gin the FSM. It says that it should be 5V putting a screwdriver at the tip.
Fuel pressure should be between 34 psi at idle and 43 psi when turned off. If these values are not met, replace FPR.
Now this CKPS REF... is this aka the Camshaft Position Sensor?
07-30-2010, 06:23 AM
#12
Crankshaft Position Sensor. The Camshaft Position Sensor is on the timing chain cover itself...which could also be the cause as well. That sensor tells the ECU when to fire the injectors. The resistance on that sensor should be 1440 - 1760 ohms (HITACHI MAKE) or 2090 - 2550 ohms (MITSUBISHI MAKE).
07-30-2010, 06:32 AM
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So this would be the one above all the belts near the tensioner not the one near the oil pan, correct?
see above post lol, just making sure I'm not mixing up resistance here
Crankshaft Position Sensor. The Camshaft Position Sensor is on the timing chain cover itself...which could also be the cause as well. That sensor tells the ECU when to fire the injectors. The resistance on that sensor should be 1440 - 1760 ohms (HITACHI MAKE) or 2090 - 2550 ohms (MITSUBISHI MAKE).
see above post lol, just making sure I'm not mixing up resistance here
07-30-2010, 06:34 AM
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I have two spare FPRs in the garage, I think I'll swap those out and leave the starter for last.. feeling lazy to mess with the 95 too lol
07-30-2010, 06:34 AM
#16
The crankshaft position sensor is under the harmonic balancer.
The camshaft sensor is right next to the engine mount on the passenger side.
07-30-2010, 06:39 AM
#17
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Both CKPS are magents, so by "cleaning" u may have deteriotated their magnetic properties depending on the cleaning agent u used to clean them.
U can Ohm the CKPS (frontside), but u can only voltage test the trannyside CKPS.
When my car had trouble starting it was the CKPS tranny side. 80 bucks.
07-30-2010, 06:47 AM
#18
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Only reason i say CKPS, cuz starter is what intially spins engine until pistons fire. It sounds to me that the starter is spinning flywheel, but the engine dont seem to know to fire or the CKPS is searching for its "Sweetspot" on the flywheel to tell it when to fire.
07-30-2010, 08:03 AM
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Naw..CPS (camshaft position sensor) is different. The CKPS Ref is a lil sensor on the front of the engine that is near the oil filter and is pointed up at the crankshaft.
Both CKPS are magents, so by "cleaning" u may have deteriotated their magnetic properties depending on the cleaning agent u used to clean them.
U can Ohm the CKPS (frontside), but u can only voltage test the trannyside CKPS.
When my car had trouble starting it was the CKPS tranny side. 80 bucks.
Both CKPS are magents, so by "cleaning" u may have deteriotated their magnetic properties depending on the cleaning agent u used to clean them.
U can Ohm the CKPS (frontside), but u can only voltage test the trannyside CKPS.
When my car had trouble starting it was the CKPS tranny side. 80 bucks.
cd be starter too...
Only reason i say CKPS, cuz starter is what intially spins engine until pistons fire. It sounds to me that the starter is spinning flywheel, but the engine dont seem to know to fire or the CKPS is searching for its "Sweetspot" on the flywheel to tell it when to fire.
Only reason i say CKPS, cuz starter is what intially spins engine until pistons fire. It sounds to me that the starter is spinning flywheel, but the engine dont seem to know to fire or the CKPS is searching for its "Sweetspot" on the flywheel to tell it when to fire.
I replaced the fuel pressure regulator with one (of two) I had in my spare two fuel injector rails. Also found the terminal on the trans where the loose ground cable went. I wire brushed the terminal and plugged it and BAM car starts nearly on the first crank, its actually on the second turn but its damn better! so it takes like .5 seconds to start.All I need to do now is find the snorkel that goes to the air filter box so I can hook up the air temp sensor which I dont have lol and Fix the missfire I caused after replacing my LIM and UIM gaskets two days ago. Other than that I think this puppy is ready to get some plates and insurance
Pics and video coming in a bit, I dont have my USB cable in the garage
07-30-2010, 08:33 AM
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Damn thing is running on 5 cylinders though... rear middle injector is all of a sudden screwed after changing them gaskets! Swapped coils and both coils work but not on that cylinder. That narrows it down to the injector. Crappy thing is that I ohmed all of them while plenum was off and all were at 12.1- 12.3.
Oh well, injectors= cake, I'm just happy I can finally say this is my first complete engine swap.
Cashoit & Trini you guys helped out a lot. Thanks to the others who also contributed to this thread. Gotta love the org
Oh well, injectors= cake, I'm just happy I can finally say this is my first complete engine swap.
Cashoit & Trini you guys helped out a lot. Thanks to the others who also contributed to this thread. Gotta love the org
07-30-2010, 10:19 AM
#22
Damn thing is running on 5 cylinders though... rear middle injector is all of a sudden screwed after changing them gaskets! Swapped coils and both coils work but not on that cylinder. That narrows it down to the injector. Crappy thing is that I ohmed all of them while plenum was off and all were at 12.1- 12.3.
Oh well, injectors= cake, I'm just happy I can finally say this is my first complete engine swap.
Cashoit & Trini you guys helped out a lot. Thanks to the others who also contributed to this thread. Gotta love the org
Oh well, injectors= cake, I'm just happy I can finally say this is my first complete engine swap.
Cashoit & Trini you guys helped out a lot. Thanks to the others who also contributed to this thread. Gotta love the org
07-30-2010, 10:42 AM
#23
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Damn thing is running on 5 cylinders though... rear middle injector is all of a sudden screwed after changing them gaskets! Swapped coils and both coils work but not on that cylinder. That narrows it down to the injector. Crappy thing is that I ohmed all of them while plenum was off and all were at 12.1- 12.3.
Oh well, injectors= cake, I'm just happy I can finally say this is my first complete engine swap.
Cashoit & Trini you guys helped out a lot. Thanks to the others who also contributed to this thread. Gotta love the org
Oh well, injectors= cake, I'm just happy I can finally say this is my first complete engine swap.
Cashoit & Trini you guys helped out a lot. Thanks to the others who also contributed to this thread. Gotta love the org
I remember i blew a clyinder on a ford i had...freakin was running on 3 cylinders lol.
Yeah man jus replace injector and good. woot woot
07-31-2010, 11:32 AM
#25
When checking grounds, keep in mind that both mounting surfaces at the starter need to be clean. Voltage drop testing is your freind, do it at EVERY connection. Ground straps are good too.
07-31-2010, 12:40 PM
#26
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Since I never posted the promised pics, here they are.
my spare used parts which saved me some moola
These 3 tools are life savers when it comes to NOT stripping soft bolts/screws
The other problem was the loose trans ground
A view of the trans from the the outside of the driver side wheel.
my spare used parts which saved me some moola
These 3 tools are life savers when it comes to NOT stripping soft bolts/screws
The other problem was the loose trans ground
A view of the trans from the the outside of the driver side wheel.
08-01-2010, 11:58 PM
#27
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Hey guys, didn't want to repost/take over Travis' thread so I made my own since the circumstances are somewhat different. Here's what I have.
Alright so this is the 97 I purchased January 2009 with a locked engine. Installed a used engine with 120k miles on it. I rode the Max that this engine belonged to and it had nice power, smooth, and sounded great. The engine is from a 99 Cali spec, I installed the 97 Fed LIM.
So finally in April 2009 I started prepping to engine to go in the Max, I did the following things while it was out.
Replaced:
Water pump
Thermostat
Drive Belts
Valve cover gaskets/tube seals/grommets
Lower and upper intake manifold gaskets
EGR/EGR pipe gaskets + pipe declogging
IACV Gasket + cleaning
TB Gasket + cleaning
2 bottoms mounts
Both oil pan gaskets/RTV
Rear Main seal
Thoroughly cleaned/sanded all ground points and connections
Finally dropped the engine in, and it runs and has alright power and smoothness but takes forever to start. Today I redid the lower and upper intake manifold gaskets to fix a vacuum leak I had and it fixed the leak but now the thing is lacking power and is still starting up the same. For reference, the CEL is on and last I checked its for the front O2 Sensor. Anyone have this issue before?
Here's a video which was also posted on Travis' thread.
Alright so this is the 97 I purchased January 2009 with a locked engine. Installed a used engine with 120k miles on it. I rode the Max that this engine belonged to and it had nice power, smooth, and sounded great. The engine is from a 99 Cali spec, I installed the 97 Fed LIM.
So finally in April 2009 I started prepping to engine to go in the Max, I did the following things while it was out.
Replaced:
Water pump
Thermostat
Drive Belts
Valve cover gaskets/tube seals/grommets
Lower and upper intake manifold gaskets
EGR/EGR pipe gaskets + pipe declogging
IACV Gasket + cleaning
TB Gasket + cleaning
2 bottoms mounts
Both oil pan gaskets/RTV
Rear Main seal
Thoroughly cleaned/sanded all ground points and connections
Finally dropped the engine in, and it runs and has alright power and smoothness but takes forever to start. Today I redid the lower and upper intake manifold gaskets to fix a vacuum leak I had and it fixed the leak but now the thing is lacking power and is still starting up the same. For reference, the CEL is on and last I checked its for the front O2 Sensor. Anyone have this issue before?
Here's a video which was also posted on Travis' thread.
wow, this is very similar to what mines doing. i just now watched the video but im having just about same problem as you except when yours turns over and slows down mine would do that a bit more harsh then yours.
maybe my FPR is bad, how do i check it?
08-02-2010, 03:26 PM
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I've read that you disconnect the vac hose and it leaks fuel if its bad. Mine didnt leak fuel but I'm pretty sure it was bad. Pick up a few from the JY and test em out if you dont want to dish out 90 bucks. Sometimes JYs will give you small parts for 5-10 bucks or even free
08-03-2010, 06:50 AM
#29
Give us an update again Columbian about the FPR and the difference it makes. When you start that car from cold, how quick does it start compared to yours if you haven't changed your FPR yet??
08-03-2010, 05:51 PM
#31
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actually if dont mind, could you put your old FPR back on and see what it does? if it still starts like notthing then ill be more confident to look for a bad ground cause mines doing same thing yours did, and if it doesn't start with old FPR ill deff go and buy a new one.
i pretty much gave up on my starts. i took it to a mechanic and he says my nissan motor don't have any problems the only thing hes EVER changed on these nissan motors is the crank and cam sensors he said other then that these cars should start like a champ everytime.
i dont thank my cam or crank sensors bad cause it runs damn good all day. and maybe the FPR is causing my check engine light to say FPR is bad.
i pretty much gave up on my starts. i took it to a mechanic and he says my nissan motor don't have any problems the only thing hes EVER changed on these nissan motors is the crank and cam sensors he said other then that these cars should start like a champ everytime.
i dont thank my cam or crank sensors bad cause it runs damn good all day. and maybe the FPR is causing my check engine light to say FPR is bad.
08-04-2010, 02:58 PM
#32
actually if dont mind, could you put your old FPR back on and see what it does? if it still starts like notthing then ill be more confident to look for a bad ground cause mines doing same thing yours did, and if it doesn't start with old FPR ill deff go and buy a new one.
i pretty much gave up on my starts. i took it to a mechanic and he says my nissan motor don't have any problems the only thing hes EVER changed on these nissan motors is the crank and cam sensors he said other then that these cars should start like a champ everytime.
i dont thank my cam or crank sensors bad cause it runs damn good all day. and maybe the FPR is causing my check engine light to say FPR is bad.
i pretty much gave up on my starts. i took it to a mechanic and he says my nissan motor don't have any problems the only thing hes EVER changed on these nissan motors is the crank and cam sensors he said other then that these cars should start like a champ everytime.
i dont thank my cam or crank sensors bad cause it runs damn good all day. and maybe the FPR is causing my check engine light to say FPR is bad.
08-05-2010, 09:09 AM
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I haven't been able to shoot another video to show the "after" start because I kind of lost the key with the remote and my spare key doesn't have a remote. I have the key somewhere in the house but everything's been getting lost since we're remodeling a bit, things get thrown around the place lol
Night and day difference, starts up almost instantly or on the second crank which happens in like a quarter or a second anyway
The ground goes on the trans, it'll be on the driver side (obviously) and you can see if if you turn the wheel to the left and remove your splash shield. There will be a 14mm bolt holding a bracket somewhere in between the gear selector and the axle. You can kind of see in one of the pics I posted. Now if you have that end plugged, then it bolts to the frame right around the trans mount.
My check engine light didnt say the FPR was bad and it wont because its not a sensor. If you have high mileage, chances are that is the problem. I threw the old part out so I cant help you there but if you're worried about spending money and finding out its not the problem then I suggest you grab a couple at the JY and test em on your car.
actually if dont mind, could you put your old FPR back on and see what it does? if it still starts like notthing then ill be more confident to look for a bad ground cause mines doing same thing yours did, and if it doesn't start with old FPR ill deff go and buy a new one.
i pretty much gave up on my starts. i took it to a mechanic and he says my nissan motor don't have any problems the only thing hes EVER changed on these nissan motors is the crank and cam sensors he said other then that these cars should start like a champ everytime.
i dont thank my cam or crank sensors bad cause it runs damn good all day. and maybe the FPR is causing my check engine light to say FPR is bad.
i pretty much gave up on my starts. i took it to a mechanic and he says my nissan motor don't have any problems the only thing hes EVER changed on these nissan motors is the crank and cam sensors he said other then that these cars should start like a champ everytime.
i dont thank my cam or crank sensors bad cause it runs damn good all day. and maybe the FPR is causing my check engine light to say FPR is bad.
Last edited by ColombianMax; 08-05-2010 at 09:11 AM.
08-05-2010, 07:14 PM
#35
08-05-2010, 08:11 PM
#36
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Here's a video I finally shot today after finding the keys while cleaning my 95 lol Notice it starts a lil delayed but I suspect its because I unplugged the battery and had it disconnected for like 2-3 days since the alarm was going off and I didnt have the remote to disarm it. Also had one of the coils off since my 95 was in great need of one. Not too bad though, especially for having some coolant in the alternator from a leaky t-stat
08-05-2010, 08:18 PM
#37
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still kinda sounds funny,^^^^ like maybe the starter was about to cut out but then it cranked over, mine does same thing sometimes starts like in your video sometimes like your bad video and sometimes like its brand new motor.
i sea foamed my motor completely and put it in oil and gas and still same thing so now motors half *** clean has to be regulator i hope.
and what is squeaking on your motor? ill make a good video of mine tommorow if regulator dont fix it.
thanks.
i sea foamed my motor completely and put it in oil and gas and still same thing so now motors half *** clean has to be regulator i hope.
and what is squeaking on your motor? ill make a good video of mine tommorow if regulator dont fix it.
thanks.
08-05-2010, 08:22 PM
#38
Please. Call me John. I insist
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago
Posts: 4,948
still kinda sounds funny,^^^^ like maybe the starter was about to cut out but then it cranked over, mine does same thing sometimes starts like in your video sometimes like your bad video and sometimes like its brand new motor.
i sea foamed my motor completely and put it in oil and gas and still same thing so now motors half *** clean has to be regulator i hope.
and what is squeaking on your motor? ill make a good video of mine tommorow if regulator dont fix it.
thanks.
i sea foamed my motor completely and put it in oil and gas and still same thing so now motors half *** clean has to be regulator i hope.
and what is squeaking on your motor? ill make a good video of mine tommorow if regulator dont fix it.
thanks.
08-05-2010, 09:59 PM
#40
Please. Call me John. I insist
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago
Posts: 4,948
Hope that fixes your problem, if not... then you at least have a bunch of possibilities that have been listed here on the org
-loose/dirty ground
-fuel pressure regulator
-bad battery
-crank/cam sensors
-bad fuel pump
-starter