My 97 won't start... :(
 

So my 97 is acting extremely weird. When I try to start the car, it will not crank or anything and the lights dim. After trying several times it would usually start. While driving it’d jerk and cut off again but if I continued to crank eventually it will start. Last night it died completely. The hiccupping was going on for about 4 days but last night it died completely. This is my side car so I’m not too worried about getting running right away however I would like to get it fixed.
Just some background information: car has 1 year old battery , 1 year old starter and 3 year old entire steering column. I had all these replaced because this car always gave me a starting problem when cold. I’d have to slam on the gas pedal in order to start and keep RPM high so it’d stay on. Otherwise it’d start and RPM would drop and it’d cut off.
I really want to keep this car but if no one can figure out the problem I’d have to let it go. Thus far, no mechanic could figure it out. What to do?

Check your battery wiring bro.

The wire can actually corrode inside the outer protective coating. You might just need new wire and terminal connectors. I suggest you get the military grade ones if this is the case. I can shoot you a pic if you PM me.

I am willing to help you as much as needed but you have to be willing to do the work.

i wd say get your starter tested.

Clean TB and MAF,, check coils and injectors too. But it sounds like a bad starter to me

Any codes?

No codes... I was hoping i'd get CEL so I can pull the codes and investigate but nothing. Starter is fairly new. I thought it was the starter at first and had it replaced.

I will clean the MAF later tonight when I get home. I also forgot to mention, it has a Injen CAI but the filter is new. I always thought MAF/coil related problems usually indicate hesitation. My 2000 maxima (sold) had bad coils and the car wouldn't shoot past 3k rmp and was shaking out of control. However, it did start up right away though.

Thanks for your help dude. I appreciate it. I'll check it out when I get home tonight. I'll pm you so you can send me pics. I'll also take some pics of the battery wires so you guys can be the judge of whether it needs replacing or not.

You SHOULD also clean your IVAC.

Since you say your lights are dim, I think your battery is on its way out. Have someone jump it and see if it'll start up.

I agree, sounds as if you need replace the battery wiring. The one that is often neglected, and was the problem with my low voltage/starting issues was the positive wire from the starter to the alternator. It crosses over the radiator and the heat causes it to corrode over time

what's the voltage with the car running and not?
check to make sure you don't have any vac. leaks if the voltage is correct (above 14v at 2.5k rpm) while it's running.

From what i have going on rite now is the CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor). Some days it will be hard to start and once its started i have a high idle. Sometimes the car dies when im driving too. I had the dimming of lights going on so i tried to get a jump but no results then i took a battery to autozone and they said it was fine. So i clean the battery off and tried again with no results. Hooked up my scanner and had a code for CPS and air idle control

How would one test a CPS? With a volt meter of course, but what settings? :p

Im not sure yet but im about to try it today, update later if i figure it out

First off:

CPS = Camshaft position sensor

CKPS = Crankshaft postion sensor

Secondly, the test for the CKPS requires two people, a voltmeter, and a screwdriver. With the ignition switch on, remove the CKPS. Make sure its harness is still connected and snug, bring a screwdriver to the CKPS, the voltage should change from 0 - 5V as you move the screwdriver.

A resistance test for the CKPS tells u NOTHING about the sensor.

The test for the CPS is a resistance test.

you dont need 2 people to test the sensors, I took mines off to test it. I set the meter to Volts 200 (00.0) and came up with (00.5) so its good. The sensor was caked up with oil and dirt so i cleaned it

Both should read at .5v?

Yuuup, thats what i came up with

Loss power car shut off
 

I have no lights the car starts, but has shut off three times.

I have a 97 maxima. I turned left the other day and car stalled out.
It started right back up. I got home turned it off and no dome lights or
anything. Turned the key....nothin. Turned the key again moved shifter from start to neutral and lights came on started right up.
Today same thing it runs fine then turned the heat on and it almost stalled out doing 45. Turned heat right off and tried it again and it almost stalled every 3rd time I did that. Any help is appreciated, oh and when it almost stalls the airbag light comes on and the check engine light flickers and car interior lights dim out.

So driving about 45 again and it was like someone pulled the plug on the car. Shut off, and would not get any power, no interior-couldn't even turn on hazards in the middle of the two lane highway. About three minutes of turning the key, moving the shifter from park to nuetral the power just came back on. Made it home, volts reading on battery were 12.6-13.4 staying the same while the air/heat was on.

Help!!!Please!!

it sounds like you have a short somewhere...... is everything tight around your battery?

Yes, everything tight on the battery, this just started happening out of the blue.

You need to get the codes so we can better help you

it sounds like you have a really bad connection to your battery source........ and the quick movement of the car is what is triggering it...... some wire is loose somewhere..... i would tell you to look at your positive and negative connections to your battery and make sure they are both secure at both ends......

I had a similar problem with my i30. Ended up being a corroded battery terminal. The wire it self was damaged all the way through. Bought a wiring kit and started right up after install.