what the hell could it be ?
Guys i just don't know what else to do except get a new MAF. have 4 which i bought at various times just to have . CEL went on p100,bad maf. So i change one still on after the reset and driving around, usually as soon as i floor my A/T . I even changed the wire on the harness only the red one just to make sure there was no short .. Can't be all my MAF's are bad. now what ?
got 00vi which i suspect is meesing with some readings and my stupid 99 ECU is making me go crazy. when maf code is present i never have a smooth acceleration when i WOT it i get a bit of hesitation after 4500 or so rpm. experts please chime in. or anyone with something they know and i'm missing.:confused: |
clean the maf, then put it back in, done.
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Originally Posted by max ride 41
(Post 8606729)
clean the maf, then put it back in, done.
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3 maf's later and still after two days it comes back on....damn it!
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ur intakes probably leaking if not then you didnt use maf cleaner to clean it.. but if you did... then you need to spray that **** down every line n the intake and run some seafoam thru the intake hose while the cars running then shut it off for 5 mins then start and rev until smokes gone.. if it works u owe me one
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3 MAF sensors and the problem still exists means the MAF isn't the issue.
Check the wiring from the connector back to the ecu. |
Found tree little holes in the k&n filter size of a fork punch. Would that ne considered a leak? So far with new filter has been around two hours driving and still no codes. Crossing fingers ... will post back
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Originally Posted by smokedouttkilla
(Post 8613969)
ur intakes probably leaking if not then you didnt use maf cleaner to clean it.. but if you did... then you need to spray that **** down every line n the intake and run some seafoam thru the intake hose while the cars running then shut it off for 5 mins then start and rev until smokes gone.. if it works u owe me one
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Originally Posted by smokedouttkilla
(Post 8613969)
ur intakes probably leaking if not then you didnt use maf cleaner to clean it.. but if you did... then you need to spray that **** down every line n the intake and run some seafoam thru the intake hose while the cars running then shut it off for 5 mins then start and rev until smokes gone.. if it works u owe me one
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Originally Posted by CautiousDriver
(Post 8615697)
Found tree little holes in the k&n filter size of a fork punch. Would that ne considered a leak? So far with new filter has been around two hours driving and still no codes.
I've had a rear O2 code for some time and with a new O2, the code came back. I finally got around to installing some silicone couplers with t-bolt clamps this weekend and I noticed that my old couplers were cracked. I think that was my issue and so far, my code hasn't come back. I'll see on my trips tomorrow *fingers crossed as well* |
Oh well floored it and magic dreaded orange light is back. Ffrr
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Originally Posted by CautiousDriver
(Post 8615775)
Oh well floored it and magic dreaded orange light is back. Ffrr
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Originally Posted by CautiousDriver
(Post 8615697)
Found tree little holes in the k&n filter size of a fork punch. Would that ne considered a leak? So far with new filter has been around two hours driving and still no codes. Crossing fingers ... will post back
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Originally Posted by SVI30
(Post 8615811)
A leak would be between the MAF and throttle body.
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is the isolator to the MAF good? that dryrots and causes a lot of problems.
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Originally Posted by GGENIUS
(Post 8615975)
is the isolator to the MAF good? that dryrots and causes a lot of problems.
my friend at some point thought it was the red wire(main power to maf) could of shorted so he replaced it somewhere down the tubing that goes back to ecu. speaking of ecu shouldi rtae a wire all the way back to the actual ecu ? is that feasable without pulling the whole car apart ? |
couldn't find any leaks :(
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the isolator is the rubber gasket looking thing that goes on the end of the MAF opposite of the airbox. they dryrot and crack, and the ring rots off and it ends up causing all kindsa intake leaks. its only an $8 OEM part too and a 30 second install.
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Originally Posted by GGENIUS
(Post 8626119)
the isolator is the rubber gasket looking thing that goes on the end of the MAF opposite of the airbox. they dryrot and crack, and the ring rots off and it ends up causing all kindsa intake leaks. its only an $8 OEM part too and a 30 second install.
just replaced the maf again from my friends drowned by sandy maxima, still same issue. not the maf. need to pass inspection now and it's the only code outthere which is getting me beyond upset. should i just go back to stock intake at this point? suggestions? |
It's worth a shot I guess? I had a civic that kept throwing iacv codes.. After 4 iacvs I tried swapping in a different ecu and the code never came back. I had the car for another year or so after that. Do you have a spare ecu available to you? At this point I would give that a try.
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I personally took out my iacv and cleaned her real good to correct my poor idle. I have heard of similar problems your describing in the beginning of this thread, being from a damaged evap canoster just behind the rear drivers tire... also i saw one where the knock sensor was shorting out causing similar issues. Hope this helps
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Originally Posted by Zach-R
(Post 8675992)
It's worth a shot I guess? I had a civic that kept throwing iacv codes.. After 4 iacvs I tried swapping in a different ecu and the code never came back. I had the car for another year or so after that. Do you have a spare ecu available to you? At this point I would give that a try.
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ive never ran a MAF without an isolator. wouldnt the MAF not be tight and flush withouth the isolator? regardless of a coupler.
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Originally Posted by GGENIUS
(Post 8676872)
ive never ran a MAF without an isolator. wouldnt the MAF not be tight and flush withouth the isolator? regardless of a coupler.
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It was mentioned before but have you checked the connector? Maybe its worth a try to swap the connector out. Maybe steal one from your friends Maxi. Btw I wasnt saying it was your iacv just mentioning a weird experience I had. My Civic would throw the code for iacv about every two weeks or less every time I reset the ecu. Once the light came on it would hesitate. After my 4th iacv I went out on a limb and swapped in a dif ecu. Viola! It never came back. Maybe the ecu had a short in it i dont know. It would be nice if you could try a different ecu just to rule that out.
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Originally Posted by CautiousDriver
(Post 8677908)
correct me if im wrong but its not liquid just air. And with a rubb err. Coupler it sjould be fine.
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Originally Posted by bobflood
(Post 8678267)
"Coupler" will be fine only if it is also air-tight! It's not "just air" - air leaks behind the MAF introduce "unmetered air" (air the computer doesn't know about) into the combustion process. This can cause all kinds of driveability problems.
to another point i will try and switch if i can find another plug for maf. |
Originally Posted by Markusfisher
(Post 8676009)
I personally took out my iacv and cleaned her real good to correct my poor idle. I have heard of similar problems your describing in the beginning of this thread, being from a damaged evap canoster just behind the rear drivers tire... also i saw one where the knock sensor was shorting out causing similar issues. Hope this helps
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Originally Posted by GGENIUS
(Post 8676872)
ive never ran a MAF without an isolator. wouldnt the MAF not be tight and flush withouth the isolator? regardless of a coupler.
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Yep c oupler I checked is securely tightened around maf.I wont buy something todo the same.it seems something electrical
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