I hate to ask a question that's probably been done to death but...
 

My girlfriend is looking at a '97 SE and I was wondering about what to look for when we go to look at it. Any suggestions? I know all the basics that you would look for on any car - I'm looking for Maxima specific stuff here. The car has 89,000 miles on it and is a dark green. Thanks in advance for any help!

Re: I hate to ask a question that's probably been done to death but...
 

Hmm, one thing possibly to add would be to make sure the starter doesnt seem to be making a squeel when you first turn it over.

When you said "I hate to ask a question that's probably been done to death but..." I thought it was gonna be talking about an egnine swap or a turbo from a 300zx. Thanks for putting dome faith back in lurkers for me.

SuDZ

Re: Re: I hate to ask a question that's probably been done to death but...
 

Nah - the girlfriend doesn't need major hp, and I've already got my 300ZX turbo fix. Hehe I'm just praying that the Max is a 5speed.

As for the starter - if it does squeel, I assume it will need to be replaced, or is there more at work there?

Re: Re: Re: I hate to ask a question that's probably been done to death but...
 

Definitely get a CarFax report done BEFORE you buy

Just bought one.....
 

I just bought a 97 SE Maxima. Mine had 66,000 m on it. 89,000 seems a little high, but that is your desicion. What I did was drove mine 3 times before I bought it, to make sure everything was okay. Also, see if you can get ahold of the previous owner & ask him questions. That helps a lot.

Re: Re: Re: Re: I hate to ask a question that's probably been done to death but...
 

AGREED! ...someone posted the URL a while back (in the off topic forum) so you dont have to pay for the report, but i dont have the link anymore.

At that mileage, see if the owner has completed the 90k services. Otherwise that'll be a big dent (in time if you chose to do the maintenance yourself or $ if not) nearly immediately after purchase.

CV Joints
 

Look at the CV joints, make sure that the boots are in good comdition. Look for any wet spots under the engine and tranny. Easy things to look for. And if u can get a Carfax Best thing in the world.

Good luck

Thanks everyone for the helpful comments, keep them coming! I just found out that the car is an automatic, so let me know if the auto trannies had any weaknesses. Also, were the VTC's as prone to ticking in the 97 as they were in the 95/96?

The VTC problem was not on this engine, meaning not even on the 95/96 :) It was in the VEs of 92-94 years. Even though it's auto, the transmission should be okay usually at that milage. The 3rd gens had a weaker tranny. What I would do is the carfax report definately, then look for any signs of a previous accident.. sometimes they don't show up on the carfax reports. Other then that, regular wear and tear things, that can help you bargain for the price of the car :)

The starter problem is because the grease dries out inside. It's supposed to be an easy fix, a couple of hours. www.motorvate.ca has a good write-up on it (and other fixes).

An added note, the starter 'squeal' is something that (I thought) is only apparent during cold weather, correct me if I am wrong. The 'squeal' sounds more like a donkey blowing its nose for about 0.5 seconds after the motor turns and you release the key. The first time it happens, you'll be going "WT*"

The Maxima A/T might not be the 'smoothest' tranny you'll ever drive. It's an agreed upon fact by most on the .org. For example, my 1>2 shifts are somewhat beef jerky, everything else is perfect. Others have different lousy shift combinations (2>3, 2>1, etc).

When the car is stationary, turn the wheels to the left & right (full turn). If you hear a crunch-cruch sound, the strut bearing has dried out too ... common problem , but you 'might' be able to use it to your advantage as a bargaining chip. Don't have to fix it until you do any lowering or shock(strut!!!!) replacement, it's only an annoyance that she'll forget after a while. www.motorvate.ca has a fix about it too.

Please check out the 4th gen FAQs, it tells you alot about common wear items and where to get them for cheap.

Run the carfax like suggested, if it's a private owner sale, ask them what gas do they use casually. If they keep switching back & forth from 87 to 91+, you've probably had some serious knocking in the engine. Might be a bad thing.

Get service records, Front rotors might be going out soon if they haven't been replaced. E-brake cable might be damaged. Oil pressure sending unit might be leaking, look underneath the engine near the oil filter (passenger side) for signs of leakage. Regular oil changes is an engine's best friend. Hood struts might be going bad (about $40/pair, read the FAQ for where to buy them) but you might be able to use it as a bargaining chip quoting Nissan's prices (about $110/pair). Get a free brake inspection done (most places do it for free, or maximum $20+) so you'll know where you stand on brakes.

If the car has auto A/C control unit, those things are expensive to replace if ever they go bad.

Another thing, clee's best advice : search is your best friend! :D

Re: I hate to ask a question that's probably been done to death but...
 

Carfax does not always have everything on it. My wife owned a 96 eclipse where the front bumper cover and front quarter panels were replaced from a minor collision. However this wreck never made it to the report.

Besides the usual paint spray and discolorations. Always check to see if the quarter panel bolts have been turned. If you look closely at the bolts you can tell if they were last tightened by the factory or by a repair shop. Turned bolts often show paint chips caused by a wrench and sometimes rounded corners on the bolts. The front of the car is the most important in a wreck so if this checks out ok then you are usually good to go as far as frontal collisions go.

If you are in no rush, wait for a 5 speed. You will never be sorry.

Re: Re: I hate to ask a question that's probably been done to death but...
 

nismomaxse97
Good point about the paint & bolts for the front quarter panels.

Also, all sheet metal will have a VIN # tag to match the vehicle. If ever any panels were replaced, the VIN # might be missing (unless the person was smart enough to re-use it properly). So look on each door, hood, trunk for this VIN # tag.