Won't Start.. Whizzing/Whining Sound When Cranking
 

Sorry, I'm sure there are 1 million+ threads on this.


So yesterday I got in my car and started her up and smelled gas or oil (couldn't really tell the difference)

I thought it was unusual but I drove my car anyway. So I start driving home and I then notice smoke coming from my exhaust, also acceleration was really down and my car was being very sputtery.

I was almost home so instead of stopping I decide to keep driving to make it as far home as I can. As I drive the smoke gets worse, and when I'm literally 1 minute from home. I stop at a turn and then my car jitters/sputters badly and then I turn her off thinking she had enough.

I waited for her to cool down, went to target to buy a couple quarts of oil just incase it was low (had the oil/filter changed 2 months ago). The oil thankfully is not milky so I'm really hoping it's not a head gasket problem.



So back to my starting problem. I tried to crank her up, and she would crank and try to start and then I would hear a THUMP and immediately after half a second she would die. I did this several times.

Finally she stopped cranking and thumping and instead now whenever I turn the key, it just makes a whizzing/whining sound. No cranking.

I have no idea what this could mean, alternator, starter.. Worse.. etc..

PS: A little history, my car would sometimes take 1-2, 5, 10 times to start. It didn't always start on the first try.
PS#2: I bought a brand new battery 2 years ago.
PS#3: I tried jumping her just in case that was the problem, and I get the same whizzing/whining sound.

Also I ordered a new starter just in case, it should be here in 3 days.

Thanks for the help guys, look forward to hearing some of your thoughts.

Mileage on the car ? Could be faulty injector or injector o ring... Coolant leaking into engine ? All i got man

Sounds like the starter is not engaging its gears, among a multitude of other possible problems(bad coil or coils. Whats does the coolant in the radiator look like? Also, you must have a check engine light, or was the check engine light blinking at one point? Get the codes.

The 2 to 10 times to start probably is your FPR. Have you been changing your fuel filter regularly? You should also give you throttle body a good cleaning.

Starter?

solenoid?

check your air intake to make sure nothing got in it. That may sound random but it happened to me before. Accelerated and a piece of rubber got sucked in, keeping the throttle open (scary).

Also check your wires too. Where my air intake was the red wiring was broken. Had some splicing to do and it was good right after. But it was causing it to sputter and therefore lose power. so check your connectors

Ive had alot wrong with my 4th gen and its come a long way too so i know the struggle. Have faith

Sounds like the bendix in the starter is done.

+1 on codes. There's gotta be underlying problems aside from the noises now.
Post a video up on youtube and link it here.

The 1-3 turning key to start is starting to happen(just clicks when it happens) to my maxima as well, sometimes when it starts It struggles to turn on, sometimes it starts perfectly and fires right up, Feels electrical. Thinking that my starter is on its way out.

and I cannot pass 2.5k RPM, it feels like theres something clogged or no fuel going through freely. also sometimes for a pump the RPM goes from 2.5k to 1.5k in a split second as if it released fuel from something clogged..

Idle is very smooth for me, don't hear any weird sounds, just when im driving It takes a bit of time to reach 45MPH+ and when I step on the gas It will not want to pass 2k RPM

almost 131k miles on my car.


Think we both have the same problem here? but I dont have the whizzing whining sound, but From looking on your history. This may happen later on for me when the starter is about to really die? interested in this thread

This sounds like the ignition switch, do some research here on the subject.


Maybe MAF or clogged catalytic converters. Any codes? Don't trust the CEL to tell you, have it scanned or turn the screw in the ECU.

Well my check engine light is not on so i can't go to autozone and ask em to pull codes, otherwise they say no. need a special scan tool to read the problem, pretty sure mechanics hold these?

and for ignition switch could I buy the part from autozone and install? I heard somthing about Non-OEM parts dont work well with our cars?


was also planning to give the car a big Tune up, clean up clogged up things , tighten all the loose wires, brand new air filters.. fuel...all fluids possibly...find anything stuck.. etc, so I know when I actually gave my car a service, havn't been servicing it the past 2 years except giving it oil changes every 3k miles.

Think its time for my maxima to get some good service.

Do some research and testing before buying. BS They can scan it with the light off.

Does it sound like this?

Yeah that's just about exactly how it sounds.

I just got the new starter in the mail today, going to try and replace it and also clean the MAF while I'm at it.

So I was able able to install the new starter and I also cleaned the MAF and a bit of the throttle body while doing so.

Also discovered that my air filter was completely filthy.

While changing my starter I snapped a hose (Breather hose?) that connects from the engine to the intake.

Attachment 60652
Attachment 60653

Here is the hose
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The old starter
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New starter installed
Attachment 60658



Installing the starter was actually pretty simple after watching the "boredmder" starter video twice on youtube.

I headed to target where my car is parked, got my tools out my trunk. Took out the MAF, took out the air inlet, took out the intake (this is when I snapped the hose that connects to the engine), disconnected a few harnesses, removed and replaced the starter and then put everything back together.

The whole process took my about 45 minutes. Would have been quicker if I had been better prepared and I didn't forget where all the harnesses attached to.


So, I went to advance and found a "similar" hose. It has the same thickness and nearly the same length. It's pretty flexible too so I'm hoping I could cut it to size and see if it will fit.

Attachment 60659

I will do this in the morning before target opens to avoid any run ins with employees.

That engine bay(especially that air filter) looks a wee bit neglected my friend.
You should:
Change the FPR because of the long starts.
Change the PCV because that hose you're replacing suggests that the blowby system wasnt up to snuff.
PCV and FPR are right next to each other.
Clean the throttlebody since doing the FPR and PCV involves removing alot of stuff for the throttle body cleaning. Use throttlebody cleaner safe for fuel injected motors.
Change your spark plugs and fuel filter because with an air filter like that, you gotta wonder about the rest.
Change the anti-freeze.
Change your oil.
Your power steering fluid looks quite low. When u turn the steering, does it sound like Chewbaca from Star Wars is under your hood? Top it up with Dexron III or better yet, use a turkey baster to replenish all of the fluid.
Your car is a 5-speed MT(Yay:)) You should bleed the master and slave and replenish with DOT3 fluid. The slave cylinder tends to fail due to old fluid corroding the seals. Bleed the slave 1st, then bleed the master. The process is to slowly push the air bubbles up. Clutch bleeding is really a 2 person job.

Also, change the gear oil. GL4 only. Redline MT90 or Amsoil gear oil.

Also, look into using TC-W3 with your car. There's a big tread here on it. Couple of ounces in your tank every fillup will really help to clean out all the gunk and carbon that there is bound to be alot of, especially in the intake manifold.


You can download the FSM from here to get a better idea of what's what;

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/

Take care of the VQ and it will take care of you.

Cool pics! It looks like my I30 when I got it a few years ago at 220,000 miles..

In the picture, I don't see the big u-shaped vacuum hose (engine front behind the timing cover) that connects the valve covers. Did someone remove that hose?

In addition to dwapenyi's list above, I usually clean the 1) MAF, 2) IACV, and 3) ECR pipes and valve when starting the rehabilitation process.

Attachment 22977
Yes, you need a breather hose between the two valve covers, or you will have a big vacuum leak and dirty air entering the engine, as well as carbon build up in the rear valve cover. I can see the nipple on the back of your front VC, with no hose on it.

Attachment 22978

So did it start after changing the starter and broken hose?

^ , i would like to know as well, just for the future people who might have this problem happen to them.

Sorry, been a long week. Have been taking the bus so very long commutes and long work hours. Don't have much time to post right now.

I will post pictures as well as videos tomorrow about what I've done. And respond to all the great suggestions you guys are giving me.



To answer your question though, the car did indeed start after I replaced the starter and the breather hose.

Thank you for all these suggestions.

-I changed the raggedy old air filter (I can't believe I let it get that dirty)
-I replaced the Fuel Filter (I'll post a video/pics tomorrow, it had incredibly dirty fuel running through it.)
-I changed my oil
-I have been planning on changing my spark plugs for a while now, that's definitely on my list
-My Power Steering Fluid has a leak somewhere, it has leaked since I bought the car 2+ years ago. I replace the fluid in the reservoir about once a week. My mechanic can't diagnose where the leak is coming from because my engine bay is so dirty. So I just refill it weekly. (I wouldn't know where to get my engine bay cleaned)
-I've also been thinking about changing the transmission fluid as well. I think I'll add that to my list too.
-Not really sure where the gear oil even goes TBH.
-And I'll look into that TC-W3 stuff as well.

-The throttlebody cleaning (from the quick google search I've done) seems to be a big task. I would love to be able to do this, if I had the space.

The PS pump seals are already shot.....keep refilling as you are doing until you can rebuild the power steering rack. This is a common thing for 4th gen maximas.

Especially with very electronically controlled engines like our cars, I am not a fan of those engine cleaning companies, unless it has a great reputation. But then they are a bit expensive, too. Too many horror stories of a perfectly working engine becoming problematic after the cleaning.

Talk to CS_AR.....he posted above. His engines are so clean you can literally eat a steak dinner off of them. Just get me some silverware and a napkin and I'm good to go:lol: I don't know how he does it, but his engines run great too. See?

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...well-runs.html

That link I pointed you to in my other post for the FSM is the factory service manual, the bible for our car. It has ALL the info you need. You could literally build the car from scratch with the FSM. It is a good read, so get cracking:reading:

Now the FSM assumes you can just take apart everything sometimes. Perfect example is changing your gear oil. The drain bolt specified by the FSM is blocked by the shift rod. From a tip I found on here, rather than take apart the shift rod, go to the other side of the tranny and dis-connect the reverse gear sensor, this big plastic thingy mounted to the tranny. Fluid will drop right out. Then refill with GL4 fluid using the fill bolt. You will know you have filled it up the top when some fluid starts to spill out. This is assuming your car is jacked up on level ground. Easy peezy.

So here I have the videos and pictures of the work I did the other day.

I suppose I should create a new thread since this is no longer a "starter issue".

Heres a few pics.
Oil and Filter
Attachment 60642
Fuel Filter Replaced
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Tail Pipe
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Video of the dirty old gas that was in the fuel filter
(removed audio because I was cursing in the video)

Here is the video of the car starting up and the sound of the engine as well.. Sounds a bit off to me.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yUr2...ature=youtu.be

Here is a video of the tail pipe, you can see the white smoke.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LnSu...ature=youtu.be



A little bit over 2 years ago I had my old 1995 Maxima that had a Blown Head Gasket due to a hose leak that caused my car to overheat, (and I stupidly kept driving while it was overheating).
Heres some pictures and a video on that.

Attachment 60648

In this picture you can actually see my current Maxima parked next to my 1995 Maxima with the blown headgasket..
Attachment 60649

Heres a video of the smoke from the 1995 Maxima.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E1-W...ature=youtu.be



I have only driven her once since doing all the work, (for 2 minutes or so) she was idling very roughly and the shut off on me a few times in those couple minutes.

I don't want my current Maxima to get as bad as my last one did. I'm thinking of buying Bars Head Gasket Repair, or Blue Devil.

If your head gasket is OK, don't use that stuff. Using that stuff now on a car with a good head gasket is like setting yourself up to get a bad head gasket. It will clog up the cooling ports. Just take good care of your cooling system (fresh green anti-freeze with 50% distilled water, replace thermostat, radiator hoses, proper bleeding) and don't let the car overheat.

It isn't. It's been a while since I've taken the whole TB off, but I think the whole job took less than about 45 minutes. I usually just take the snorkel off and clean it from the front. (Rotate the butterfly valve open to clean behind it, and clean the back of the valve.) That whole process takes 15 minutes at most. And you just need enough room to stand beside the car.

If you add 20 more minutes to that task, you can replace PCV and FPR too. All the parts you removed to get access to the throttlebody put you pretty much right there to do these as well.

Don't forget the breather hose between the valve covers.

Had typed up an update with a big list of everything I got done in the last month or so and everything got deleted..

Here is a quick rundown of how my Maxima is doing, and what I've gotten done to it in the past month and a half.

• Complete Brake Job
• Replaced Front and Rear pads (Semi Metallic)
• Replaced 2 Rear rotors
• Replaced 2 Rear calipers
• Replaced Banjo Bolt (Bolt Snapped)
• Cost $210

• Replaced Wiper blades $13
• Replaced Fuel Filter $10
• Replaced Air Filter $10
• Replaced Breather Hose $12 (Hose Snapped)
• Changed Oil & Filter $15
• Cleaned MAF $6
• Cost $66

• Took To A Shop
• Replaced Starter
• Computer Analysis, Tested Electric and Fuel System
• Replaced Fuel Pump
• Replaced Spark Plugs
• Replaced Fuel Injector #2
• Cost $870

Total Cost Of Repairs = $1146

The car is now running better than it ever did. Shes got 133K Miles on her. My plan was to run her into the ground but, I've put almost as much money into the car as it's worth, so I might as well keep her and take care of her. you don't see too many 1998 White 5SP/MT SE's around.

My power steering has leaked ever since I bought her (2+ years ago) that will be the next thing that will need to get fixed.

Other things I need/want to do

• -Debadge her
• -Replace 2 missing lights (Fog light and parking light)
• -Plasti-dip my rims
• -Trunk only opens with the key
• -Trunk leaks water
• -When I lock all my doors I have to unlock the passenger door first otherwise the alarm will go off if I try to open the driver side door (been like this since I bought the car)
• -Windshield Washer Reservoir is leaking
• -A/C system is shot
• -Engine is DIRTY
• -Maybe Plasti-dip interior trim
• -Retint windows
• -Rear driver side window regulator

Thank you for the feedback everyone.

A few pics of my Stock Maxima for anyone interested.

Attachment 60599

When I bought it, it did not have a muffler.
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Solving that problem
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Getting my car booted.
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The car on the right was my last maxima RIP (1995 GLE Blown HG)
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Hitting 123,456 Miles
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Someone at work had a white Maxima too!
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Maxima getting a piggyback ride
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Just washed
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Update.
She's going back to the shop..

Rough idle, hesitating/rough acceleration.

You have a big a$$ vacuum leak because of the missing breather hose between the valve covers. Its been mentioned three or four times by my self and another on both your threads. Have you fixed it? This will cause hard starting and rough running. Fix this first with $3.00 worth of hose.

Dang man, hope u find the problem and if u do, tell us what the problem was