1999 Nissan Maxima periodically won't accelerate...
 

Over the past week, I've had this weird problem with my Maxima. About once per trip, I'll hit the gas pedal to accelerate, but nothing happens. when it first happened I thought I accidently put the car in neutral (I have an automatic), but it was in drive when I looked. I then tapped on the gas again and it was fine.

It's happened about once per day for the past week. It has only happened when I was at a stop sign or red light (either completely stopped or crawling). I also noticed when I was driving on the highway it felt like there wasn't a lot of power in the pedal. The car runs fight; there's been no sputtering or anything like that. Just basically like the pedal stops working, but it's so quick and subtle, I can't even remember or tell if the engine still revved when I hit the gas. I don't think it did.

I've never experienced a problem like this. There haven't been any other symptoms. I'm just wondering if anyone else has had a similar problem. Just wondering what I'm in for.. Is it something I can fix myself?

Did you do anything under the hood recently? Any maintenance? Does it start properly?

AlSo is your check engine on?

I haven't done anything recently. About 4 months ago I changed the air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, cleaned out the IAC valve and throttle body. The car starts fine and runs fine. It drives fine, too —just the weird acceleration issue periodically. As I mentioned, it only happens once per day, but it's happened everyday since last week.
The only issue I can think of, which I doubt has anything to do with it, is mild-to-moderate power steering fluid leak. I have to add fluid once per month.
As far as the check engine light goes, my CEL bulb is burnt out, so I'm not sure. I plan on taking it to autozone to have them run a scan.

Check the throttle linkage, make sure it's not catching on the clamp that holds the air tube to the throttle body.

Throtten position sensor?

You have a 99, and 99 maximas have the swirl valve check valve stuff right by the throttle cable, since you did some cleaning around that area, so it's a very big possibility that every so often it's causing a bind and restricting movement,

I did tv cleaning on a 99 and didn't secure the swirl valve sensor back properly and it caused yeh throttle cable to bind and the car was idling at 3,000 rpm while at a light, I opened the hood and it was due to the swirl sensors getting caught in the throttle cable area, def. check around your tb for this

Thank you very much for the info. I'm gonna check the TB sensors in the morning.
I have a new piece of information... It happened again today. I was stopped in a drive thru and went to hit the gas. The engine revved up (as if it was in neutral), then it jerked ahead. I don't know if this information helps.

You should check ur codes again, it might be your valve body starting to go,

Went to Autozone to get the codes checked. They said they couldn't do it and that I'd have to come back because they were short staffed.
The problem has gotten worse. It now feels like the car is definitely slipping into neutral when I am stopped some of the time. I started rolling backwards (as if I was in neutral) and I also noticed the RPMs jumped (just as if I put it in neutral).
I hope it's not the transmission. I love this car. I've never had transmission issues with cars, but I'm told everything's expensive. I hope I don't have to junk it.

go to another autozone and get those codess!

Ok, so here's the update. The issue I had got worse on my way home from work forcing me to pull into a gas station and take a look under the hood. Turns out my transmission fluid was very low. This, of course, is what was causing the problem. However, now the isssue is, what's causing the leak...

I spent that night looking at ratings/reviews for local independent transmission specialists and found one right around the corner from me. There's a couple things going on. My engine mounts are broken, which is causing added pressure when I go from 1st to 2nd gear. This has played a part in the leak, which is coming from the transmission valve body (I believe it's called). The mechanic quoted me about $625 to take care of everything. The problem is, in order for him to get to that area to work on it, he has to remove this metal supportive beam (I guess is what you call it) that's bolted to the frame of the car. The area it's bolted to has signs of corrosion/rot. He said from his experience there's a 50/50 chance that when he goes to unbolt it, the whole area might crumble. If this were to happen the car would essentially be totaled because he would have to rebuild the entire area and it would get costly.

I told him not to proceed. He told me that's fine. I'm just gonna have to take it easy on the car and be vigilent with checking/adding transmission fluid. He said if I decide to get the work done to take it back to him.

So what do you think? Did I do the right thing? I have two jobs I need to get to. I don't have public transportation near me. I didn't want to risk having my car potentially decommissioned without looking into other options.

Please! spray rust converter on all rust you can see around the area, I think the "beam" the quote is referring to is ,what i would call the"semi independent" front sway bar. Correct me if i am wrong please. .., Most of that area on maxima models' should' be 'factory' sprayed with anti rust/corrosive paint , and it will be thick. When it breaks down the oxidation,(in salty air oxidation is more prevalent)' flays the paint and , best way to heal for cheap is rust converter, with one of those long,thin and bendy nozzles. Peace hope i have helped and please anyone correct me if i am wrong.

The mechanic you went to is either a money grabber, or you have no WOF/COF and your car is about to fail in a nasty way.
sorry for wording but its your life bro.

Where r u located? I'm in NYC and I can def. help you out with this