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Help-1996 Virginia Emissions Problem-VSS code, Cat and 02 not ready
I have a dilemma on my hands. I have a 96 stick SE non-abs maxima with cattman headers, greddy exhaust, stock cat, JWT ECU, CAI, and MEVI. The car was running like crap, bad fuel mileage, idling rough, and cutting off all the time. I had emissions done at my local shop 2 years ago and passed after much headache. They had told me that since I removed the pre-cats by installing the headers, it clogged up and burned out the cat and messed up all the emissions stuff and they had to clean out the MAF and EGR among other things. So I had to replace the main cat, downstream 02 sensor, and speed sensor. The bill was around 1000. They told me not to swap out the ECU and keep the stock one on.
I didn't listen and figured, if every 2 years I have to replace the Cat and sensor, that's not that bad of a trade off to have my JWT ECU on. So, I swapped it back in shortly afterwards. Fast forward to a week ago. The CEL has been on for around a year now, and I have been smelling rotten eggs coming from under the car (Bad Cat), but the car runs and idles smooth with no shutting off. I figure, that the worst case is that I have to replace the cat and sensor again, which is fine for me. The new emissions guy says, there is an exhaust leak and I can't start the test until it is fixed. New gaskets installed by another mechanic. Then emissions guy says that he can't run the test because of the CEL. I just want him to hook the car up to the machine to tell me what else could be wrong so I know exactly how much it will cost. He says the machine won't let him do it until the CEL is gone. Run the OBD and it says that the Vehicle Speed Sensor is throwing the code. I didn’t anticipate that. Changed the sensor, reset the ECU then told me to come back next week. CEL came on again and they hooked up the OBD and it still says the VSS is bad and that the Cat and O2 are not ready. This shop I always go to tells me that there is nothing I can do, go get a waiver at a Virginia Certified Emissions Repair Facility and proceeds to wash their hands of me. Are you kidding? Go get a waiver? This basically means, the emissions guy is going to give me this ridiculous list of what I need to fix, including returning all my parts back to stock and bend me over a barrel. So I go to a VCERF, and talk to the guy and he says to drop it off and he will properly diagnose the problem. I go to drop it off and tell him that the ignition can be tricky to start. I start it up, he tries and fails. I show him and start it up 5 times, and 5 times he fails. He informs me that he can’t work on the car until he replaces the ignition starter switch, which will cost around 400 bucks! I’m stuck at this point, and am faced with junking my Max I had for 8 years now because I can’t pass emissions? My tags are dead and am just waiting for the HOA hired tow services to come steal my car in the night. Too late for me to get an extension and I am running on borrowed time. I’m no mechanic, but I decided to not let my max go without some sort of fight. I have decided since I haven’t actually tested my emissions yet, I might have a chance but I need the maxima.org family help. My plan is to try and fix the VSS and ignition switch myself. For the switch, I will most likely have to take apart and inspect the instrument cluster tighten and re-solder any connections that may have cracked to fix the VSS problem or get one from the junkyard, if all else fails. Then for the switch, I will replace all fuses and relay switches in case of oxidation before I try and replace the entire switch. I have to back out the factory bolts and that seems like a PITA. I was thinking instead of doing that, installing some sort of bypass switch located in the interior fuse box or clutch pedal? But, am not sure now to do it. If I am able to complete those things above with no CEL, I would then ask the shop to replace the CAT and 02 sensor, run it, then gamble to see if I passed emissions. It seems like a costly gamble because of the cat, 02 and install labor but what are my other options besides letting her go? Any help would be appreciated. |
I took apart the steering column and pulled out the ignition switch and noticed considerable wear on ignition. This is where you can put a flathead and just turn the car on without a key. The car did start. So, I think its either the lock assembly itself or the ignition switch. I ghetto used electrical tape and shimmed it into the ignition assembly and reattached the ignition switch and it started up fine without hesitation. Didn't know what else to do besides changing the entire ignition/lock assembly -$150 for something not even related to my emissions problem.
As for the VSS problem, I then pulled out the odometer and tightened screws in the back and am going to reset ECU. It's raining again so not much I can do at this point but go to the DMV and get a "trip" temporary thing where I can drive the car around for 3 days. I need this to run the car and see what other might codes come up. Also I will be making a trip to the junkyard for another odometer, just in case. |
how many miles u got on yours?
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How long could you drive in VA with South Carolina tags?
There are no emission or vehicle inspection requirements in SC. |
Fix the VSS issue, clear the code. Then you need to do X number of drive cycles before your ECU will go into a ready state and allow the ODB to report that all is well. Until then, your catalyst will read not ready and fail inspection.
It's rather simple, really. |
Originally Posted by JoshG
(Post 9005186)
how many miles u got on yours?
I have 200k+ and engine still runs fine except for this CEL!
Originally Posted by njmaxseltd
(Post 9005225)
Fix the VSS issue, clear the code. Then you need to do X number of drive cycles before your ECU will go into a ready state and allow the ODB to report that all is well. Until then, your catalyst will read not ready and fail inspection.
It's rather simple, really. Well, when I first had the VSS done and ECU reset, they told me to drive at least 3 drive cycles. I came back a week later so obviously the cycle requirement has been reached but still N/A for the Cat and O2 on the OBD. I still can't believe those mechanics I go to just left me out to dry without as much as a heads up... I retightened the screws on the back of the odometer and reset the ECU. I drove 1 drive cycle and 17 miles later, the CEL came on again. I haven't read the code yet, but I'm sure its the VSS. I will be heading to the junkyard tomorrow for my last attempt to fix this VSS. if I can't fix the VSS/CEL problem then I can't proceed to the emissions phase and the car will have to be junked. I will search for other methods on how to fix the VSS but feel free to throw some suggestions out since I will be making a trip to the junkyard tomorrow. |
do not junk it :\ hope it goes well, sucks u have to have no CEL on to pass the inspection, but it is quite in a good way why they have it, it makes the driver have no check engine lights and are forced to fix it. where I live I could register with a CEL on if i had it on, and fix it as soon as possible without any limit being put on me.
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Originally Posted by JoshG
(Post 9005251)
do not junk it :\ hope it goes well, sucks u have to have no CEL on to pass the inspection, but it is quite in a good way why they have it, it makes the driver have no check engine lights and are forced to fix it. where I live I could register with a CEL on if i had it on, and fix it as soon as possible without any limit being put on me.
I completely understand the guidelines that are put in place. I am really not trying to skirt around things here. I just want to know what exactly is wrong and how much will it cost, and is it reasonable and feasible to fix and keep my car. What I don't like is that I can't even proceed with the emissions phase. I know I will still fail, but at least I have an idea of what other issues are present. And I'm definitely not understanding of the certified emissions place telling me to invest 400 bucks to replace the ignition switch, which isn't even an emission issue, before they even take a look at the car. |
Originally Posted by RIPTIDER
(Post 9005255)
And I'm definitely not understanding of the certified emissions place telling me to invest 400 bucks to replace the ignition switch, which isn't even an emission issue, before they even take a look at the car.
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Originally Posted by RIPTIDER
(Post 9005249)
Well, when I first had the VSS done and ECU reset, they told me to drive at least 3 drive cycles. I came back a week later so obviously the cycle requirement has been reached but still N/A for the Cat and O2 on the OBD. . |
Just hooked it up to the OBD and the CEL is not throwing the VSS code, yet! But, it is showing a P1445-no DTC code. I will search to see what I can do and what that code means.
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P1445 - Evap Purge Volume Control Valve. It's located under the left rear wheel area, often gets plugged up with gunk. You might be lucky and clean it up, or just replace it.
You've got to get that fixed, clear the codes and once again go through X number of error free drive cycles for the catalyst to show ready. |
Thanks to CarsNtoys-How to test and replace the EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Valve P1445
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QnVUBYdFHGI Everything checked out except when I tested the male side EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control valves. All the terminals tested ~30 ohms except for terminal 2,1. When I connect 2,1 all I get is a 1 reading. So, I’m not sure to do at this point and the entire unit is around 130ish. Any suggestions? I’m just glad the problem is starting to become isolated. |
I even took the canister vent valve off in the rear. It looked corroded but the plunger inside still moved up and down and didn't seem stuck so I put it back.
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Just because the valve moves dont mean the 2 o rings inside are sealing its bad trust me
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I had the same issue my valve went bad. I replaced the valve and then got more cel for the evap. I finally figured out the problem to be the charcoal canister causing the issues. The charcoal was starting to break down and then was clogging up the lines causing cel. I finally just took the canister off and took the air hose and blew all the charcoal out and had to clean out the lines but no more cel for that.
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Decided I will make a trip up to MD Brandywine to see if they have anything. I called but they just told me to come and see for myself. The dealership said they had the EVAP purge volume control valve it in stock and it was 220. I just don't want to pull the part at the junkyard and have them quote me 175ish.
I volume control valve is not reading properly on the 6th terminal and show not ohms at all. Since I'll be up in MD, does anyone have any recommendations for nearby junkyards that have a good inventory of 4th gens? |
Went to Brandywine, and they only had one 4th gen engine. They were willing to let me pull off the EVAP purge volume control valve and I tested the ohms.
The one I had had a faulty 6th terminal and the one I pulled off had a faulty 3rd terminal. What is going on? The manager there told me he had a couple more engines that are actually closer to me than Brandywine. I will try again tomorrow. |
Originally Posted by njmaxseltd
(Post 9005303)
Um, obviously you did not complete X number of error free drive cycles...
I was doing a little research and read this post on another thread. So who's correct here?
Originally Posted by KRRZ350
(Post 6276929)
Are you sure it is a cali spec/ Because I know that the catalytic converter readiness check WILL NOT GO READY ON A '95 FED SPEC (OR '96 FED SPEC I30) It will ALWAYS read incomplete.
Ask me how I know this.......................... Just take it for the test, it will more than likely pass, if the tester tries to tell you it won't tell him to run it and to try anyways. This is what ended up happening on a '96 fed-I30 (Which FYI is different from a '96 maxima, ist is similiar to '95 fed-spec maxima in several emmisions regards ie: no evap purge control volume valve) I pulled my hair out for almst 2 months trying to get it to go ready, new o2's, different cat, IAT sensor (Which is only used by ecu for catalst srt), than one day a test guy said "Hey, even some '96's won't always go ready but they pass anyways because the state computer knows it's one of those cars" sure enough............ thread: https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...not-ready.html |
Then I found this post and link about setting your cat, o2 and egr systems to ready.
Has anyone actually did this?
Originally Posted by nabeel19
(Post 3998670)
Clearing DTC codes will set Oxygen, EGR and Catalytic Con Montitors to not ready. No matter how much you drive your car, it will not turn on those monitors until the car has been driven in certain way/pattern atleast twice.
I had to clear some DTC codes on my ECU, because they were accidentally set testing some components. I did not realize that clearing the codes will turn off the O2, EGR and Cat monitors. I drive my car 25 miles each way to work highway and city, and after driving the car for three months, since clearing the code, the three moitors were still not getting set to ready. Then I found this drive cycle in the manual. Follow this and it will set all the monitors to ready. 1. Start the engine when the engine coolant temperature gauge needle points to C. Allow the engine to idle until the gauge needle points between the C and H (normal operating temperature). 2. Accelerate the vehicle to 55 MPH (88km/h), then quickly release the accelerator pedal completely and keep it released for at least 6 seconds. 3. Quickly depress the accelerator pedal for a moment, then drive the vehicle at a speed of 53 to 60 MPH (86 to 96 km/h) for at least 5 minutes. 4. Stop the vehicle. 5. Accelerate the vehicle to 35 MPH (55 km/h) and maintain the speed for 20 seconds. 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 at least 3 times. 7. Accelerate the vehicle to 55 MPH (88 km/h) and maintain the speed for at least 3 minutes. 8. Stop the vehicle and turn the engine off. 9. Repeat steps 1 through 8 at least one moretime. If step 1 through 7 is interrupted, repeat the preceding step. Any safe driving mode is acceptable between steps. Do not stop the engine until step 7 is completed. Tread: https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...not-ready.html |
After I get this Valve assembly source and installed, I will find out for myself I guess.
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95 on up, fed or Cali are OBDII and must show all systems ready to pass most states inspection. VA as you've discovered is one of them.
You've got to get all the DTC's cleared and get the error free drive cycles done in order to get the catalyst to show ready. Some states still use the exhaust sniffer rather then reading your ECU. In that case, what krzz said somewhat applies. (you won't need a ready status to pass) |
Originally Posted by njmaxseltd
(Post 9005815)
95 on up, fed or Cali are OBDII and must show all systems ready to pass most states inspection. VA as you've discovered is one of them.
You've got to get all the DTC's cleared and get the error free drive cycles done in order to get the catalyst to show ready. Some states still use the exhaust sniffer rather then reading your ECU. In that case, what krzz said somewhat applies. (you won't need a ready status to pass) The emissions guy told me that he can't do the sniffer test on my tailpipe and that he has to read it directly from my car. What about that proposed driving scheme to set the monitors to ready? Is that legit? The thing is, my tags are dead, and I don't have the luxury of fixing issues, reset ECU, then driving for a couple of days or weeks until the monitors are ready. |
Originally Posted by RIPTIDER
(Post 9005820)
The emissions guy told me that he can't do the sniffer test on my tailpipe and that he has to read it directly from my car.
What about that proposed driving scheme to set the monitors to ready? Is that legit? |
Well, I changed the EVAP volume valve, vent control valve and replaced all the hoses except the ones for the EGR. I tightened all the screws on the back of the speedometer reset the ECU and after 2 drive cycles, I have no CEL.
I immediately go scan with OBD and pray that all monitors are set to ready per the driving scheme and what do I find? Monitors are not ready and there is a code P0174 Bank 2 system too lean code, but no CEL! |
Just checked the lines again and found that the hose going to the power valve actuator for the intake manifold was disconnected. Must have happened when I was disconnecting/reconnecting the hoses when I changed them all out.
This probably caused the P0174? |
Yes, now drive it around for a while to get into ready status.
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I drove the car 2 cycles with no CEL and go to scan it hoping for the monitors to be set. They are not, and now I have 2 codes…P0440 Evap emission system and P0446 Evap vent control circuit with no CEL. On top of that, now I’m hearing slight clanging coming from the axle when I let go of the gas. Hope its just a bad cv joint and not a problem with any of the seals on the tranny.
I think the Max is trying to tell me that it’s time to let her go… |
I figure it could be the vent valve that I wd40 is not fully operational again or is operational intermittently. I picked up a vent valve at the JY but came home to find that it was for a newer max and had that nipple o ring. I have dremeled that nipple off flush and will bolt it on tomorrow with gasket sealent to make sure no leaks come from it and reset the ecu.
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stick to it.. it will eventually stop.
goodluck man |
OK, I have taken out the charcoal canister and found that charcoal bits are pouring out of the purge outlet like a cereal box. I heard it's not suppose to leak out anything. The only area that leaks is from the purge outlet on the charcoal canister. So, I'm assuming this is bad?
Just want confirmation before I pay 70ish at the stealership! |
Check your evap valve attached to the intake mani also i bet there is some up in there too.
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P1445, my 96 Max and 00 Altima had this code...found replacing the gas cap on both turned off the CEL and no more codes! Simple, but worth a try? Hope this helps!
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Changed charcoal canister to new OEM, changed volume control valve attached to manifold because previous one read 39 ohms, new one reads ~29, changed vent valve and decided not to keep the hacked valve. Bench tested all valves to see if functioning properly, they do. Blew out lines with air can, psi may not have been sufficient, but felt air blowing through, so I don't think there is any blockage.
Took car out for drive cycle and almost immediately CEL! Check it and it says speed sensor again. Getting close to calling it quits. Why did this code pop up now? After I had tightened all screws on the speedometer, I had not had that code pop up since. Now that I have possibly fixed everything it comes back? Retightening and waiting to go on another drive cycle. Don't feel like making my 8th trip to the junkyard and spending 25 on another speedometer that may work, throwing more money at the car and still having another code pop up. What's next? A low flow code from the EGR? |
Does your speedo stop at all or hang? You might need to do the soldering trick.
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It use to have intermittent problems with just completely stopping but have not had that happen in a couple months now. I don't know how to solder. I tried on a jy odometer but failed badly. I even burned the circuit board. Plus, I need to clean the circuit board because it has traces of corrosion and grim on it but don't want to mess up my odometer in the process. I'm so close but these gremlins just keep popping up and mocking me with their CELs!
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Originally Posted by RIPTIDER
(Post 9009068)
It use to have intermittent problems with just completely stopping but have not had that happen in a couple months now. I don't know how to solder. I tried on a jy odometer but failed badly. I even burned the circuit board. Plus, I need to clean the circuit board because it has traces of corrosion and grim on it but don't want to mess up my odometer in the process. I'm so close but these gremlins just keep popping up and mocking me with their CELs!
So it might be speed sensor not your cluster |
It looks like you've never replaced your primary O2s. If not, replace them NOW. They get tired without throwing a CEL. Tired O2s will make your emissions bad, not to mention reduced power.
For the VSS, you may have a bad sensors OR you have ground issues, especially near the VSS circuit. Clean your ground points. Any wire attaching to the body or engine block is a ground. Unscrewing and screwing them back in does a basic cleaning if you don't want to go hard core. Lastly, get your car onto a TCW3 diet. It'll do wonders for cleaning our intake system, lubricating your fuel pump and injectors. Your car will run more smoothly and quietly, and that will be because the injectors are firing more predictably. TCW3 will also reduce emissions, also because the ECU is talking to injectors that are responding properly. Read up on the thread here; https://maxima.org/forums/fluids-lub...itive-new.html Your car, especially because it's old, will greatly benefit from primary O2 replacement, ground contact cleaning, and TCW3. |
Just came back from emissions and...fail!
15 mph HC 160 fail CO .46 failed by .01! NO 2893!!! 25 mph HC 131 fail CO .66 fail NO 2143 fail I have 14 days for a free reinspection. Going to research but I fear replacing cat, o2s, and EGR cleaning! |
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