MaxStock

iTrader: (1)

Anyone please share your constructive input on this one. I found a V2 SC kit, missing some small parts plus BOV; guy selling to me for $1100 it has 40000 miles on it. If I shop the missing parts plus BOV it's gonna be about $1400 total. The question is after reading that is; should I stay all NA get it dyno tuned save a little money and just be happy with it or spend the money and go SC? Driving habits do include me stomping on it at least once a day but for very short periods. I only drive about 50 miles a week with my work commute being very close. Anyone have any reliability issues with the V2 kit?

bumpypickle

iTrader: (1)

pm the wizard, I believe he has over 200,000 mi on his SC'd maxima?

MaxStock

iTrader: (1)

Really thanks. It's funny you mentioned him because I sent him a PM regarding it.

JoshG

I can smell wizard replying in a little bit when he visits

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Change your driving habits, put the cash in the bank, keep adding to it.
Buy a new car with lots more power and technology.

Enjoy!

CS_AR

Our Wizard is definitely the Wizard of SC 4th gens. So you're at the right place for SC information.

How is your suspension? Since our cars are not under-powered, I usually spend spare cash to get the suspension, handling, and tires up to the best that I can provide before adding horsepower.

MaxStock

iTrader: (1)

Just finished front and rear tower brace, rear sway bar is on its way, tokico illuminas with eibach pro kit. I'm trying to find someone to do subframe connectors.

JoshG

New cars are a waste of $, worst thing anyone could do. best to keep the car you have until its really time 2 go. I like to feel different on the road and "rare"ish than driving a new car that I drive that I can see another mile or 2.. more power doesn't mean more horsepower.. its just supporting all the heavy weight they add to new cars now.

this gen maxima is one of the best ones nissan ever made, why get rid of it? have fun while its still here.

besides most of the new cars look ugly, but will say some look great. a driver doesn't need technology, just distraction for the driver.. hence more accidents lol

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

All my fun weekend cars are either supercharged or turbocharged. I got tired of this fact and decided to boost my daily driver Maxima. My only regret is that I didn't do it sooner. There is a night and day difference between a fully bolted NA Maxima and just a modest boosted Maxima. Not only is my daily driver more enjoyable, but it's renewed my interest in modding since now I'm always driving a fun, quick car.

As far as reliability, a supercharged or turbocharged Max can be just as reliable as a NA Maxima IMO. Gas mileage will remain the same if you drive normal. Of course the more you get on it, the more gas you'll consume compared to NA.

The key to having a reliable FI'd Maxima is preventive maintenance, on-going maintenance, and having it tuned properly. By preventive, I mean you have to add a tranny cooler and do a valve body mod to your automatic transmission if you expect it to last. Manual tranny's can take more of a beating. The weakest link in the equation is not the engine (assuming proper tuning), but the transmission.

As far as the whole V1 plate versus V2 plate, here's the deal. The V2 plate requires its own tensioner pulley and bracket assembly that Stillen originally provided. The V2 plate also requires two very unique standoff bolts required as a spacer in order to mount the plate to the timing case. Often, the standoff bolts magically get lost after the original owner and the second owner either improvises or goes without. Regarding the tensioner pulley, there are very specific washers and spacers that came with the pulley assembly. Improvise incorrectly, or install things in the wrong order, and you'll probably have belt shredding issues since the belt isn't aligned properly. People often blame the V2 plate as the issue of belt shredding issues claiming that because it's aluminum that it flexes. Total hogwash and unproven. The plate is half the weight of the steel V1 plate, yet it's still a tank. I will say the V2 plate is indirectly the cause of belt shredding issues...The direct cause is poor installation or improvising with the wrong parts. It's not the plates fault people can't follow directions or don't have the right parts.

Now the V1 bracket is a much simpler design bracket wise (no standoff bolts), and you get to use the OEM tensioner assembly, but now you have to mess with the thermostat and install the custom thermostat housing Stillen provided. Fitment is poor and it hits the bracket ever so slightly. You have to shave the thermostat housing if it hasn't been done already if you want the bracket to sit properly on the timing case. Because of the potential thermostat housing fitment issue, my hunch is Stillen abandoned it and went to the V2 plate design.

Additionally, having the right parts and doing a proper install is imperative. You have to follow Stillen's instructions to a "T" as well as follow Ptatohed's SC writeup. I'm always amazed when a n00b comes on to the Org, buys a supercharger kit, and claims they slapped it on in 6-8 hours. Days later, the n00b then creates a new thread asking for help because he has issues. My point is you can't take any shortcuts on installation. My first SC kit took roughly 32 hours to install. Every SC kit after that always takes a minimum of 24 hours. Point being, you have to take your time and do things right the first time, otherwise you'll pay for it later. Lastly, you have to install quality parts.

One other interesting tidbit...the steel V1 plate weighs 9 lbs, compared to the V2 aluminum plate at 4.5 lbs.

If you love your Maxima and you plan to keep it for a very long time, then I'd say go for it. Otherwise, pocket the money and buy a better car that was meant to be a true sports car, such as a 300zx twin turbo, Mitsubishi 3000GT twin turbo, EVO etc