Maxima 97 misfire only while driving
 

Hello
I have a maxima 97 and about 1 1/2 month ago it starter cutting off while driving and my rpm goes down to 400 thats when i can feel the problem but the weird thing is that is only when driving a soon as I put it in parking or neutral the car acts smooth. Also it doesn't do it all the time only when i'm on a stop or when the odometer hits 40 mph. Does anyone know what it could be the problem. I have a video of the problem.
Thank you .

Can we see the video?

Yes, i could send it to an email or how can i post it in here

I'm going to upload the video on youtube and I'll post the link in here ones it's uploaded

Here's the link for the video, that's the only thing it does and it only do it when it's on (d) drive

http://youtu.be/mdVpvkKYgSw

Test the coil packs and throw in some new ngk copper spark plugs.

I already change the spark plugs for NGK Iridium IX Spark Plugs BKR5EIX-11 a did this about 2 months ago this was before the problem started, i was wondering if its a bad coils or the crank position sensor

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Sounds like crank sensor, Maybe Mass Air Flow on the air box, if it's stock..check wires..

Hello richM84 , I replaced the crank sensor a couple months ago including the wire for it. Does anyone know why it only does it when it's on D

99 maxima vibrat while I stop at red light and car is in drive poition?
 

99 maxima vibrat while I stop at red light and car is in drive position?

Yes, mine does the same thing do you know what can be causing this problem

could be maf, iac valve, or coils. Vibration could come from engine mounts

I am also leaning on MAF.

What would you guys recommend replace it or give it a good clean if so does anyone know how to clean it

Give it a good clean first, go autozone, advance auto, buy a can of CRC MAF (Mass Flow Sensor) cleaner, it has to be MAF cleaner, you cannot use other cleaner. Take the air duct/boot out, look through the duct, MAF is in the middle of the duct, give it a good spray, let it dry in room temperature for like 30 minutes and then you can put it back. Is your CEL light on? Any code?

You either have an injector or coil pack failing. Warm the car up until you can feel the misfire while driving. Then have a friend brake torque it which should put enough load on the engine to present the misfire. Then disconnect one coil pack at a time until you've found the cylinder that makes no difference. That's the problem cylinder.
Start by swapping the coil pack, does the problem follow the coil or stay on that cylinder?
If it follows, replace the coil, if it remains, most likely the injector, but check the spark plug first.
Good luck!

I have same issue with 97 Max - Cam sensor code. P0340 with no engine light code is just in ECU
Occasionally idle goes real low and sometimes stalls immediately.

check coils first, then injectors

It's a good idea to do the tb,iacv,egr, tube,than check the coils and the injectors. I would check the maf,by driving it wot of the line, if it can't pass the 2500rpms when your driving it's your maf. I would next check the coils by doing a power balance test with a nissan consultII or the ohms resistance test with a voltage ohms reader. I recommend you letting someone do the work or testing. The next thing is how is the mpg and how are the o2s,my car would start up funny,as if the car was on empty, a bad o2 would do this believe it or not. Menna what part of the area your from,because if your close. To me I can help out.
Good luck .

Clean Idle control assembly
 

If you have a check engine light, use these links:

First link, how to run your cars self diagnostic:
http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecu.html

Second link, what the code results mean:
http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecudecoder.html

Common problem with a bad idle mixture in the Maxima is random shuttering while driving, hard to start, and/or shuttering when engine is idle under load (in drive but stopped). This is assuming you have no cylinder mis-fire code in your diagnostic.

Cleaning your idle control valve:
First, remove, disassemble, and clean all the burnt black out. Careful, when you remove the two smaller solenoids for cleaning, they have a thin copper gasket, a metal pin, and a spring inside them; also remember what side each one came from. You will also remove the large solenoid from the center for cleaning as well. You will notice a plastic black screw on the top of the valve assembly, that is your idle air mixture.

Once the valve assembly ins installed back into the car, start the car with the idle screw adjusted most of the way out. The car will run at a high idle with the screw mostly open (around 1100 to 1200 rpm), let it get to running temperature. Once at temperature, screw the plastic screw in until you reach the proper idle rpm (700 to 800 RPM).


If you have a mis-fire error:
The code will tell you which cylinder has the mis-fire. Swap that coil pack with the cylinder next to it and clear the check engine light. If the the light comes back and shows a misfire again, see if it followed the coil pack to the cylinder you moved it to. If so, replace the bad coil pack to solve the mis-fire.

Put a timing light on it and have someone put the car in drive, chock the wheels, apply parking brake and pedal brake, and load up the engine....you'll see the problem! Cracked/voltage leaking coilpack boot or defective coilpack!!!

I'm located in phoenix az