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Loss of power in low throttle opening. Need expert's opinion.
I have 96 manual SE with 190k on the clock. About a month ago the engine started to cut off when cruising at around 3 rpm and taking the gas a bit off to let it coast. The engine power would cut off (electrics are still all bright). If I press on the gas again it would run normally so I excluded gas supply and ignition issues. If I switch to neutral when it's doing so, RPMs would drop to about 500, hang for a split a second and the engine would die. Starts just fine afterwords.
I had P400 code when it just started doing this. So, I cleaned the EGR pipe (it was dirty but was not blocked) and also discovered that the rubber pipe from EGR valve to BPT valve has disintegrated. I replaced the rubber pipe and cleaned the metal part of the pipe which was blocked. The code has not come back but the car still runs crappy as described above. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. |
Loss of power in low throttle opening. Need expert's opinion.
Not sure if this would help. But you can try taking the MAF apart.
My car would buck and occasionally stall and die at a complete stop. My ECU never threw a code. But I re soldered the MAF wires and the problem went away. |
Whens last time you dud a tune up
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Originally Posted by lux97Max
(Post 9071350)
Whens last time you dud a tune up
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Originally Posted by shilov
(Post 9071487)
I did a 60mile service 4 years ago, recently changed plugs, air filter. What exactly do you mean by tune up?
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Sounds like your MAF is on its way out.
If the car hesitates, stumbles, or stalls and no CEL, then its your MAF. A misfire wont cause the car to stall. You can try to clean the MAF or resolder as others suggested. Best bet is to pick one up from the classifieds or the Junk yard, if u can find one. I heard ok reviews with Autozone brand too. EDIT: If the stalling only occurs at idle, then test your Idle Air Control Valve per the FSM. The IACV lets bypass air into the engine when at idle or when u take your foot off the pedal. A Bad MAF will cause you to stall when accelerating and buckle when at idle. |
For anyone who has taken apart and re soldered the 3 pins inside the MAF, I did this today and was wondering how long to expect it to last? My soldering skills suck and the solder kept falling down rather than staying on top of the pins. I did test the looseness of the pins before I started and they seemed to be loose enough to have caused the MAF to fail.
I cleared the P0100 code and drove around a bit and it seems fine again. Yesterday the car lost power on the freeway and I had to pull over for a bit. After turning the car off, it was fine after restarting, but on our return trip, the CEL came on and then I couldn't go fast because every time the RPMs got over 2300 or so, or it would buck. This morning I went to AZ to get a new MAF but since they didn't have one in stock, I figured I'll order a cheap one online and try to fix the original which I had saved. I've now gone through two cheap ones, each lasting a couple years. I am also wondering whether I burned out the MAF with some spirited driving earlier in the day, where I had the RPMs upto 6000 for a bit. I was thinking, maybe the alternator (still the original 20-year-old one) )is putting out too many amps (if it's internal regulator is bad) and maybe I fried the cheapo MAF. |
If you have no clue on how to solder, get someone who can. Re-soldering the MAF connections should fix the problem.
Originally Posted by mikeg75
(Post 9072281)
For anyone who has taken apart and re soldered the 3 pins inside the MAF, I did this today and was wondering how long to expect it to last? My soldering skills suck and the solder kept falling down rather than staying on top of the pins. I did test the looseness of the pins before I started and they seemed to be loose enough to have caused the MAF to fail.
I cleared the P0100 code and drove around a bit and it seems fine again. Yesterday the car lost power on the freeway and I had to pull over for a bit. After turning the car off, it was fine after restarting, but on our return trip, the CEL came on and then I couldn't go fast because every time the RPMs got over 2300 or so, or it would buck. This morning I went to AZ to get a new MAF but since they didn't have one in stock, I figured I'll order a cheap one online and try to fix the original which I had saved. I've now gone through two cheap ones, each lasting a couple years. I am also wondering whether I burned out the MAF with some spirited driving earlier in the day, where I had the RPMs upto 6000 for a bit. I was thinking, maybe the alternator (still the original 20-year-old one) )is putting out too many amps (if it's internal regulator is bad) and maybe I fried the cheapo MAF. |
I didn't say I have no clue. In fact, I took apart my Bose stereo a couple years ago and fixed the display by resoldering a specific resister - and it still works.
I just am very unpracticed and for whatever reason, the solder kept dripping down, rather than sticking. I think I need to use flux to make the solder stay on the connector pins, or else try melting the solder from a different angle, so it doesn't fall off. Regardless, the car is running normally I just am unsure how well fused the pins in my MAF are, since I kept getting solder droppings that fell off the part I was trying to fuse. |
Just to close the thread: It was the MAF sensor!
As oppose to some comments hear and around the forum my issue was not during acceleration but rather at low throttle opening when cruising at constant speed. It accelerated just fine. Idle control circuit was my primary suspect. An ebay used MAF fixed all. |
Thanks for letting us know what fixed your problem. That is how we all learn.
Too many people on this forum don't write back to let us know the outcome. |
Originally Posted by mikeg75
(Post 9072518)
I didn't say I have no clue. In fact, I took apart my Bose stereo a couple years ago and fixed the display by resoldering a specific resister - and it still works.
I just am very unpracticed and for whatever reason, the solder kept dripping down, rather than sticking. I think I need to use flux to make the solder stay on the connector pins, or else try melting the solder from a different angle, so it doesn't fall off. Regardless, the car is running normally I just am unsure how well fused the pins in my MAF are, since I kept getting solder droppings that fell off the part I was trying to fuse. |
Patriot....look for the publication date.
last post was from 2015. Do you really expect him to still be on this group and actually remember what he did nine years ago ? |
Originally Posted by JvG
(Post 9257440)
Patriot....look for the publication date.
last post was from 2015. Do you really expect him to still be on this group and actually remember what he did nine years ago ? |
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