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Since no one has a definite answer, I went further than what the others I read have done. 1st off, the camshaft sensor was leaking oil. Replaced it with an aftermarket sensor and the SES light came on when it was never on. I assumed I connected the pigtail in correctly....in which I didnt. When I looked at it and wiggled the pigtail, while the car was on, as I stated not knowing it wasnt seated correctly, the car shut off and heard a bunch of clicking all over the engine. Turned the car on again and ever since then I have had issues with the code re-appearing. Ordered another sensor from rock auto and installed it not ruling out that the part itself could have been faulty from the factory. Tried several different sensors from autozone and such with the same bad luck. One day, the light turned off on its own. Thought to myself maybe it was one of the "maybe its one of the codes that clears after a certain amount of times you turn on the car" incidents. Well the following week it came back. So now I went to test the cables, terminals, sensor...nada. Yesterday I replaces the cables from the ECM to the pigtail and ground wire and unfortunately its back. What else could be the issue if I assumed that maybe I shorted the wire when the car shut off and heard the clicking? Could something else be causing this? How could I check for an open circuit?
There could be a couple of causes, for starters these cars dont do well with aftermarket sensors. Have you replaced your starter lately? Check wires from starter and camshaft sensor.
There could be a couple of causes, for starters these cars dont do well with aftermarket sensors. Have you replaced your starter lately? Check wires from starter and camshaft sensor.
See I read that too. When I called the dealership they cost about $140. I have not heard about the starter possibly being a cause of it. What can the starter do to possibly be the issue?
You went to the trouble of bypassing the factory wires between the sensor and the ecu. This step should have eliminated
the possibility of bad factory wires.
How did you go about attaching terminals on the wires?
Soldered or crimped? If crimped, it's possible, though not likely that the sensor still cannot communicate with the ecu.
The car wouldn't start if the ECM did not communicate with the sensor. I've tried to start the car without the pigtail connected to the sensor and it woudl just crank and not start. The cables at the moment are crimped. Soldering really wouldnt make a difference since a connection is a connection. I used a solid copper wire rather than the strands. Im looking into the factory sensor but if it doesn't fix it, I spend a lot of money on a part that wasn't the solution. This is getting frustrating.
So the problem was solved once I bought an actual factory sensor. Literally checked the ECM for any codes and got 5 fast and 5 slow. so were good to go. seems like these cars dont like after market sensors. id go for that first then try other things.
The one I got from rock auto was ULTRA-POWER PC200. Now check this. The one I got from a guy parting out his car has the identical markings as the AIRTEX / WELLS 5S1307. If I would have seen that, I'd go for that one first.
So NOW....when I start my car, feels and sounds like it starts too quick, then immediately turns off....and guess what came back? checked what it was and its that same freaking code again!
Why not get a used OEM one? In most cases I don't suggest it for sensors but these cars can be picky with aftermarket. If you don't have the money to go with a new one from the dealer, this may be your best option.
Why not get a used OEM one? In most cases I don't suggest it for sensors but these cars can be picky with aftermarket. If you don't have the money to go with a new one from the dealer, this may be your best option.
I did get a used one. Once I installed it and connected it, I checked the ECM for any codes and it flashed 5 fast and 5 slow meaning no codes/everything is working correctly. Then today waiting for the bus, I stayed in my car while it was on to stay warm, it lit up again. checked the ECM and it flashed fast once and slow once. I reset it, and turned my car on, then as I said about the starter happened and my bus came shortly. So the code didnt pop back up so far.
Looking back through the thread, is the issue coming from the SES staying on?
Can you give us the code number that keeps coming back?
As as side note, almost all of the sensors (except MAF and CKPS) on my 99 model have been replaced with aftermarket products that are supplied as BWD or Standard Motor Products (SMP) (INTERMOTOR) brand. A SMP-IM part will cost almost as much as OEM, but I can get them at a local parts store on weekends. So for me it is a convenience play more than a cost saving measure. I spent a lot of time researching the companies that supply parts to Nissan and found the parent company for SMP is one of Nissan's Just-In-Time (JIT) partner/suppliers. In most cases, I've found the markings on the SMP-IM part to be the same as the OEM part that it replaced. Now there are SMP parts and there are SMP Intermotor parts. It is the Intermotor product category that I've found to be direct replacements for OEMs.
Looking back through the thread, is the issue coming from the SES staying on?
Can you give us the code number that keeps coming back?
As as side note, almost all of the sensors (except MAF and CKPS) on my 99 model have been replaced with aftermarket products that are supplied as BWD or Standard Motor Products (SMP) (INTERMOTOR) brand. A SMP-IM part will cost almost as much as OEM, but I can get them at a local parts store on weekends. So for me it is a convenience play more than a cost saving measure. I spent a lot of time researching the companies that supply parts to Nissan and found the parent company for SMP is one of Nissan's Just-In-Time (JIT) partner/suppliers. In most cases, I've found the markings on the SMP-IM part to be the same as the OEM part that it replaced. Now there are SMP parts and there are SMP Intermotor parts. It is the Intermotor product category that I've found to be direct replacements for OEMs.
The code is 1 quick flash and 1 slow flash which when I go to autozone to get the code read, it comes back as P0340.
So I called Intermotor. They said the senors they have are factory sensors indeed and are supplied to Nissan. Now look at the models of sensors rockauto has, and the sensor IM has. IM sells theirs for 120.18, while the dealer sells them for $105. RA has the SMP brand but 2 different ones. A PC200 and PC200T, while the Airtex has the same markings as the one I now have, yet the SMP's dont and look the same. What else am I missing? This is getting confusing.
Last edited by Rage Maximus; 01-04-2016 at 02:12 PM.
WOW - That's quite a list price. It looks like a mistake.
Originally Posted by Rage Maximus
So I called Intermotor. They said the senors they have are factory sensors indeed and are supplied to Nissan.
Yep. Nissan sources their parts from somebody and YOU just found the source.
Standard Motor Parts (SMP) is the brand, Intermotor is the product designation for the OEM line of parts. Federal Mogul is the parent company that I see is the source for a large share of the automotive industry.
I have purchased the one that Rock sells for $44.79. However, I purchased mine from advanceauto.com online for $47.59 using the TRT30 discount code and specified "in store" pickup so I didn't need to pay a shipping charge.
Now if I wanted to go OEM, I would have purchased it from an online Infiniti dealer. It would have cost $52.65 + Shipping. Actually, I haven't found an online Nissan part dealer that sells for the same price as the Infiniti dealer. Go figure.
It gets back to my earlier statement, an IM part will cost almost as much as OEM.
It is the convenience of having a store right in my neighborhood where I can stop by, pick up the part and be on my way in a few minutes after I order it online.
Hint: If the part doesn't work --or-- if the part doesn't change the outcome like I expect it to, then I can return it (within 90 days) for a full refund -- no questions asked. That's why I like to purchase parts from a local Advance local store where I do a lot of business and the people who work there know me when I walk in. If something goes wrong or I'm not 100% satisfied with the part, it can be returned for a refund.
I did that before, and the guy inspected the camshaft sensor to make sure it wasn't already installed. The Nissan dealership near by is charging me that 105 but im not sure which one to get. The airtex looks just like the one I have and it's OEM, and what if I just go to Nissan and buy one of theirs, and it,s the same OR different. The other sensors do not have any markings on them so it's really hard to trust any of them anymore.
If you spend $105 for an OEM and the outcome doesn't change, will the dealer refund your money? For me, that determines whether I would buy anything from them.
Really you can't tell the difference in look between a SMP and the SMP Intermotor item.
The Intermotor designation represents a higher Quality Control (QC) sampling/testing tolerance level. It's the same product, it just had to pass some additional tests before it was put in the Intermotor box.
Here's a link to the Courtesy Nissan Parts Web site in Richardson TX for example.
It looks like a nice low miles car that sounds good when the issue isn't making it run rough.
I think the chance of the Wells sensor from the previously running parts car being bad has some very low odds. I guess it is possible but something tells me that its unlikely.
I did find this thread for some wiring/voltage areas to check. Take a look. I would disregard the post about a stretched timing chain. I've seen several posts about the P0340 but no solution to know how it turned out.
I found this video on youtube where a guy is testing the sensor, harness for continuity and such. should the car be on or on acc? when I tested it when it was on as in running, when i checked the cables, the car would shut off as soon as I removed the test leads. im literally blowing money into this car that isnt giving back. kind of like an ex girlfriend. wife already told me sell it and get a different car with my tax return but i love not having to make a car payment every month. I would really like to fix this car and keep it.
Last edited by Rage Maximus; 01-05-2016 at 06:20 AM.
What I can offer is a link to the Field Service Manual. Open the PDF file in the link below. Trouble diagnosis for DTC P0340 starts on page 197. Also, just ignore any reference to the Consult diagnostic tool on page 197 and keep browsing to page 199.
Thank you so much for that information. Since I am off tomorrow, I will try to look into that. What I am a little confused is when looking for the possible cause of the problem, where it says malfunction is detected when... The cylinder No. signal is not sent to ECM during engine running and signal is not in the normal pattern during engine running. Ive already changed out the wires. the only thing I can check is the harness on the ECM...thats the only thing I did not change. and I suppose 1 ground that im missing.....hmm
12-21-2015, 06:30 PM
