O'reilly Ultima reman alternator lasted 9 months
 

Right on cue (after finally getting the car running really well) the alternator I replaced in September has seemingly failed...at first the battery and brake lights would turn back off with more revs, but now battery, ABS, and brake lights on all the time. Radio not getting 12 volts so doesn't work right, windows slow, headlights dim. Glad to have made it home.

Any chance there is some other culprit in the charging system other than the alternator?

This Ultima unit is the only one that O'Reilly sells (I bought it under emergency circumstances)...I plan to ask for my money back, or at least store credit, as I don't need another "Ultima" anything.

I usually buy OEM parts from orderinfinitiparts.com...is this below the BEST quality part available @ $221?

http://www.orderinfinitiparts.com/pa...&siteid=215003

There is a core charge shown...there's not usually a core charge for new units, so I'd have to wait until Monday to ask them about that. Maybe I'll buy one from local Infiniti dealer ($325) tomorrow AM instead so I don't have to wait for the call, and then shipping...

Amazon sells a "Hitachi ALR0011 Alternator" for $325 (same price as Infiniti dealer, and no Prime) so that doesn't seem like a better deal...

Local Infiniti dealer doesnt stock the alternator nor its sub-harness.

The Infiniti parts guy said these OEM alternators "had all new moving and electrical parts" but that the housings were re-used.

That doesnt sound like "new" to me.

Always check your wiring to make sure that your contacts to the alternator and battery are clean and the wiring is sound. This includes the main ground wire between the battery and engine block.

The alternator might still be under warranty.

Once in a whIle even the better rebuilt ones die early.

Just checking my work here...I tried to start yesterday and battery didn't have enough amps to turn it over. Charged overnight, battery (Optima red top installed 5/2014) showed 14 volts fresh off the charger (same as measured at charger clamps)

Install and start car - battery light on almost immediately, voltage at battery posts 12.00, then 11.99, then 11.98...

Stop car, battery has 12.6 volts when off.

This still indicates "faulty alternator", yes?

Definitely your alternator

The battery could cause premature failure on your alternator and vise versa. Check your battery as well.As for alternators everyone has their opinion which one to get, I got the autozone one and if it goes bad I can just replace it, if you have money buy a 300 dollar one.

I took the failed alternator out of my 1998 i30.

Anyone who can remove one of these without both removing the radiator fans and completely dropping the a/c compressor clear is either a) a liar or b)...? I tried to leave the compressor stood up on its backed-out bottom-bolts (as boasted of by others on this forum previously) but I didn't see a way to get a ratchet on the alternator bolt with the compressor piping still in the way.

The new 96-97 Bosch AL2365N alternator has a _longer_ pressed-in fitting/bolt shank (inboard side, near the MOUNT BOLT head) than the one that came out of the car. The 1998 bolt that came out of the car is not long enough to traverse the alternator case and then thread into the MOUNT BOLT RETAINER NUT without shouldering out on the longer press fitting.

Pressing the press fitting farther inside the housing to shorten it's exposed length (and thus be able to use the bolt on-hand) means the inside dimension of the alternator case/fitting will no longer be wide enough to accommodate the alternator mount on the engine.

I will either have to change out the press fitting (put the 98 press fitting on the 96-97 spec alternator), or buy a 96-97 ALTERNATOR MOUNT BOLT. Two part numbers are listed:

96-97: 1191631U00
98-99: 1191631U0A

Of course I welcome alternative idears or Facts re: putting a new 96-97 spec Bosch AL2365N alternator on my 98-99 car.

O'reilly Ultima reman alternator lasted 9 months
 

Haha i told you. Just hit the fitting with a hammer, it will go in. I stated this in the other thread.

imho the entire remanuf auto parts industry is a racket. I had a bad experience with "NEW" AC Delco starters on the Maxima. First one lasted months, 2nd one bad out of the box, 3rd one is fine at least a couple of years so far....

I took pix of all 3, and the bar codes and labels are all in a different place, box identical. meaning I think the quality control is lacking.

And AC Delco removed the lifetime warranty??????? Short of a class action, I'd say they got away with it.

The 4th gen had a recall on the alternator and I remember the dealer doing it in < 60 min, so who knows, maybe their techs are fast.

Buy new alternators not remans. If you can find a new-ish OEM Hitachi get that. Or convert to the VQ35 style alternator, especially if you can find a Nissan Quest alternator. All you need is to is splice in the 3.5 style plug and pop it in. Its an 140amp alt vs the 100/120amp that 4th gens come with.

2ndly, SEARCH do not ask me how to convert anything its been covered many times.

I can swap mine out in 30mins provided im not fumbling around trying to find my tools lol. They are easy to change, remove your serpentine belt which takes only a minute as there is only 1 bolt holding it in place. then there are literally 2 bolts and a connector holding your alternator on. Its not a hard job at all. Now that damn power steering pump. That can be a nuance.

I hear you, and appreciate that you are lending your assistance gratis. However:

"Pressing the press fitting farther inside the housing to shorten it's exposed length (and thus be able to use the bolt on-hand) means the inside dimension of the alternator case/fitting will no longer be wide enough to accommodate the alternator mount on the engine."

If I understand you correctly, your hammer solution is the same as "pressing the press fitting farther inside the housing". Because of the length of the fitting, this would narrow the jaws of the alternator case just enough to not clear the engine mount for the alternator.

Right on dude, i dont remember having to swap out the bolt, but i remember i had to test fit a couple of times to get it just right. Your almost there man!

The 96-97 alternator fits and the car is back on the road.

I installed a new alternator harness - it has two retaining clips on the engine harness side. Where are they supposed to clip into?

Removing the press fit bearing was ill advised - the 98-99 bearing is both of a smaller diameter AND is too short, as the jaws on the 96-97 alternator are slightly wider than 98-99. This was a mistake on my part re overestimating the width of the engine alternator mount.

Alternators are on the list of things you never buy reman or used, along with sensors, starters, MAFs, etc. Our maximas are finicky little b****es, and they will give you hell until you use a brand new, oem part.