Lower & Upper IM, EGR remove & replace help
 

Hi folks, I started a project involving lower/upper intake & EGR removal. I had to replace the knock sensor and harness as a mice nest wreaked havoc down there, deep inside the V.

I was getting knock sensor & EGR codes, so I elected to remove the EGR stuff & give it a thorough cleaning, and generally just check everything out. It also gives me a chance to replace many gaskets, which probably need replacing after 220k. Car is a '96 Maxima GLE with Auto Trans.

I got everything removed, however the car sat for a couple months, and now I'm not entirely certain the sequence that everything goes back together (should have wrote things down as I did it.) I don't want to get too far ahead of myself when I reinstall things-- there's a couple bolt holes and a component I'm not 100% sure about.

Can anyone identify the bolt holes in this picture, and what mounts to it?

https://s29.postimg.org/5k6qesbyv/max2.jpg

Next, where does this component mount to? It has no bolt holes of its own, but does receive two screws/bolts, so something secures it, I'm just not sure what exactly. I know it's part of the EGR, and I think I can figure out the vacuum lines on my own.

https://s29.postimg.org/tmnk9nslz/max1.jpg

Any general advice on sequence putting things back together? I have the EGR removed, the solenoid(?) in the above image, fuel rail, lower intake, upper intake, valve covers, and all the associated hardware/hoses/etc.

Just simple EGR first, the solenoid, lower intake, this, that, the other, would be fine.

Thanks for any and all help!

Here's a picture of the EGR mount with the vacuum galley still mounted to it before I cleaned it. IIRC, there are two 10mm bolts that hold it to the mounting assembly.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...psuguorb4b.jpg

Here's how it looks after installation.

Attachment 12399

Here's a picture of the EGR and vacuum solenoid.

Attachment 12400

Another picture.

Attachment 12401

With vacuum hoses..

Attachment 12402

Here's a little trick for mounting the EGR gasket on the tube before swinging it into the UIM for bolt down. If you've done one of these you'll appreciate pain and time this will save.

Attachment 12403

After throttle body..

Attachment 12404

Ready to roll.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...psd1s9nabu.jpg

I assume the trick is to use high-temp rtv or some sort of adhesive to secure the gasket first?

What exactly do you mean by swinging the the tube? Is it supposed to be loose at the bottom (EGR manifold) before the upper intake installation?

I had a hell of a time removing the UIM (first time) and ended up twisting the tube so bad it couldn't be used (some cursing and getting mad helped bend it.) Ended up having to buy a new one at the stealership. Any tips for when I go to install the upper intake? Thanks for your help.

I tried this Locktite product on the last EGR job. So far so good.

http://www.autohausaz.com/secure/PartImages/39158.jpg

I leave the tube loose at the bottom until I get it bolted to the UIM. Then I tighten up the bottom bolts once everything is in place.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...psafad2ef1.jpg

I tighten the easy to reach bolt first.

Attachment 12311

Then I use an open end and reach under the tube to tighten the bolt behind the tube.

Attachment 12312

Many of us have bypassed the EGR coolant u-shaped hose that runs through the UIM by running a hose from the right side of the throttle body coolant feed back to where it connects after making the loop through the UIM.

I did my first EGR u-shaped hose bypass three years ago. It makes installing and removing the UIM much easier.

Some members only use one of the brackets that is at the back of the UIM. They use the one that is easier to reach. Most likely the one on the right. Other members do not use the brackets at all. I've seen three different approaches for dealing with the UIM bracket pain.

I cut grooves in the brackets and use them to help hold the UIM in place while I tighten down all of the other bolts. Then I tighten down the bolts that I started in the back of the UIM before I drop it into place. Then the next time I need to remove the UIM, I only need to loosen the bracket bolts.

Since there is no u-shaped EGR coolant tube to remove I can pull the UIM without much effort.

I have two Maximas running with the EGR coolant bypass. The 98 model is the easiest to bypass since it does not use a cooled EGR valve like the 99 model.

Attachment 12313

Which EGR tube did you need to twist?

Your engine looks great under the valve cover. It looks to be very well maintained.

What type of motor oil do you use?

Bummer.. I tightened mine as they look to be a major pain to reach once all the vacuum hoses and such are connected. I'll go back and loosen them if I have problems.

I did exactly this before I saw your post; glad it's okay to do. I noticed right away that the coolant was just making a loop through the UIM, but it also goes through the throttle body on my '96 before completing the loop. There is a mechanical valve that appears to drop idle speed when the coolant warms up (like a thermostat.) No biggie, the computer doesn't see it (no wires), so I can find a workaround if it gives me fits.

Last person to work on the car only used one. I'll likely do the same.

I twisted the EGR tube itself that bolts to the back of the intake. I didn't know it was back there and got all sorts of pissed off when the intake wouldn't come off. It was the weak link in all my twisting, pulling, of the intake, trying to remove it. I bought a new tube, and all seems well.

My mom owned the car before me (she bought it at 20k.) It was given to me at 200k. She used conventional Pennzoil at Big-O Tires up to about 75k. Then she switched to Valvoline Quick lube and used Valvoline conventional till about 160k. It had Maxlife after that, but since 200k I've been using synthetic. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w-40 and Castrol Syntec 0w-30, is what I've used so far.... The car is pretty immaculate for its age.

I'm excited to get it back on the road, just need to install the upper intake itself, then the air plumbing and battery and then with any luck she'll be good to go. Hopefully without any annoying codes this time! Thanks again for the help!

It looks like you've an exceptionally nice 4th gen. I know you are proud of it.

I started using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum High Mileage 5w-30 with the last oil change on two of my 4th gens. They seem to like it. Since the most recent addition (Max IV) has a lot of sludge buildup from previous owner neglect it will take a while for good oils to clean up the mess.