max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

and it's a doozy, p 0406 which has to do with egr re circulation. not sure where to start, any help with this one would be appreciated,
https://www.engine-codes.com/p0406_nissan.html

Reality sucks

iTrader: (3)

There are several reasons the P0300 random misfire could pop up. Plugs, split coil boots, corroded coils or burnt where the boot attaches to the base of the coil. The P0406 should be a secondary code. Egr passages could be clogged which they generally are. However, it just see's flow...

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

already aware of what can cause a p 0300. fixed everything, coils, injectors, plugs, ran multiple scans on the car with a decent scanner and just kept erasing the code. last friday i got the p 0406 and it's egr related. probably the egr tube or the solenoid as it's original and probably clogged. i'm just not sure if i should just replace the whole solenoid part or just try cleaning out the tube or both.

CS_AR

How many miles do you have on it and since the last time the EGR system was cleaned?

P0406 is the EGR temp sensor. If the tube is badly clogged, it could be the reason. I haven't had to replace a temp sensor yet.

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

thank you cs, that's what i needed to hear. i had the tube replaced brand new about 7 years ago and i had a problem with the tube being clogged. does the temp sensor ever go bad? i also thought about pulling the egr solenoid ( body and all ) and seeing if that wqas clogged as well, possibility? thanks

CS_AR

I haven't seen a temp sensor go bad or even thought about replacement on any of my 4th gens.

If I received the code, I would start with cleaning the EGR tube. A clogged tube/pipe may be obstructing flow to the sensor. If cleaning doesn't cure the code, then the sensor is easy to replace as you can see in the picture.

The cost on a new OEM temp sensor part 1473064Y01 is $92.14 + shipping/handling. Even the SMP Intermotor ETS45 part is $83.89 + shipping/handling @rockauto.com.
So this is not an inexpensive part that I would change without having a good reason in my opine.

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

good to know, car actually started and ran fine today, ( go figure ) and my mechanic said i should just buy a replacement tube rather than waiting for him to clean it out cause of the time it'll take to do that will be labor. he only charges about 50.00 an hour to work on my car when the job is a pita, otherwise he'll just say, it's 20.00 or w/e. should i risk spraying the bolts on the egr tube to save time, or just wait?

CS_AR

It can sure take a lot of time to clean out the tube and the port on the UIM. Hope the UIM port is not completely clogged like the last one I cleaned. I had to take a small coal chisel to open a hole in the UIM port so I could get cleaner inside the hole to start dissolving the carbon buildup. This was on the 98 model that had most likely never been cleaned. Since yours was cleaned 7 years ago, it may not be as bad.

Member PH98I30 reported using "EasyOff" oven cleaner to dissolve carbon buildup. I plan to try that on the next EGR cleaning job.

As far as bolts, I have not had a problem with them when removing the EGR assembly. Also note that I usually cannot budge the large EGR pipe that runs from the EGR to the exhaust manifold. So I work around not being able to remove it. Also, I remove the temp sensor as one of the first steps while the tube that is mounts to is still bolted down. A good mechanic should have an "open end flare nut wrench" that can be used to remove the temp sensor without damaging it.

When removing EGR components I start by removing the large nut that holds the EGR pipe to the EGR valve. After I have the pipe disconnected from the EGR valve body, then I loosen or remove the other nuts and bolts that hold the EGR tube to the mount assembly. After that, I remove the two 14 mm bolts (under the mount assembly with yellow arrows in the picture below) that hold the mount assembly to the engine.

Once the lower 14 mm bolts have been removed and the other smaller nuts and bolts have been removed, then I can swing the entire EGR assembly away from from the engine and finish removing the remaining nut that will be holding the EGR tube to the assembly. The idea is to remove the two 14 mm bolts to free up the entire mounting assembly before I worry about the smaller parts that are mounted to it. Your mechanic should know this and have a similar process.

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iTrader: (4)

i doubt it as i know he's never done one of these tubes before on a maxima other cars probably, the dealer wanted $168.00 plus tax for the job and can clean out the tube and replace it. i might go that route as i know if they run into any issues that they will have the parts to fix it. as much as i hate to use them, sometimes i get a bit ansy watching my mechanic trying to figure stuff out. i trust him, i just don't feel like standing there for 2-3 hours while he does.

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

UPDATE: i took the car to the dealer to clean the tube and they said it wasn't clogged and they wanted to tear apart the egr valve body/clean it and check the solenoid because they said the egr wasn't working at all?? should i just replace the egr valve body and solenoid as it's probably clogged and the solenoid is shot. also, one or all of the vacuum lines could be leaking or busted as that could be the issue as well. thoughts?

CS_AR

That's why I replaced the EGR valve and vacuum modulator as part of the 98 model's midlife refresh. At that car's age, it just wasn't worth the headache of messing with EGR parts that I knew would be failing soon.

I see an Intermotor EGR valve is available for $75.79 from rockauto.com. Also, I see the OEM vacuum modulator is $53.09 at OIP. So for roughly $130 + shipping

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

i saw those 2 parts oem on ebay for under 100.00 i believe.