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I've looked at the check engine light thread that lists the codes. However, I went in for emissions testing today so I already have the codes. I'm getting:
P0325 for knock sensor
P1400/P1447 manufacture specific codes (wtf?)
P0755 shift solenoid B malfunction.
Supposedly I'm allowed up to 3 check engine lights. What should I do, repair what I can myself or take into someplace preferably not the dealer...for a fix. Where can I find the locations for these? Plan to look it over during oil change this week.
All these error codes are easily repairable. Hardest one may be knock sensor depending on your mechanical skills. But 1400 is egrc solenoid which is emissions related its located right next to the knock sensor. P0755 is inside of the valve body. Just have to remove transmission pan and its pretty much right there. You can easily save hundreds of $$$ doing this yourself.
Don't mess with the knock sensor until after you have fixed the P1400 and P1477 codes. The knock sensor code shows up almost every time you have some other code (but not the P07xx transmission codes) and goes away when you fix the other problems.
1400 egrc is that the EGR valve? If anyone recalls I changed 2 valve cover gaskets so I pretty much got most of the engine off. Didn't do the EGR valve though. But solenoid would that refer to a connection electrical or the valve itself?
I also earlier this year flushed and filled the transmission and removed the pan and changed the screen filter. So don't really wanna do that again. Ugh...I think that code explains why my OD off mode doesn't work too well.
P1400 is the EGRC solenoid valve.
P1447 is the EVAP canister purge control valve.
When I did the valve cover gaskets on my 97, I left off a connector on one of the solenoids in the EGRC solenoid area. Hopefully it will be something simple.
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In the below photo, the labels are wrong.
The upper unit what is the Canister Purge Volume Control Valve.
The lower unit is the Canister Purge Control Valve.
Ahhhh, Thankyou Dennis. Okay I know where those are. I took all those off during the VC change. But I was asking why was there little pieces of either charcoal or carbon coming out of those areas. I've heard of "charcoal canisters"...is that the same? Was I supposed to have removed all the charcoal out of those valves?
Interesting tidbit today: I finally got to changing out my failing blower motor and found some papers that had fell behind the glove box. Original Nissan papers from the 1st owner! They paid $22,000 something. I also seen a receipt from 2002, an owner went to a Nissan dealership for a check engine light around 40,000 miles. The dealership charged almost $400 to change 2 oxygen sensors, but the guy only paid $50 and the rest was covered under warranty. I wonder if this other stuff is covered by warranty lol.
I can see now why my car was in such good shape when I bought it. Based on several pieces of paper I've found over the years, it was always serviced at dealers and the owner payed a pretty penny each time.
You have a bad charcoal canister. You will never be able to keep the code from coming back until the canister is empty and that will take a loooong time. That happened on my 97 too. The charcoal canister is called the EVAP canister. It is located behind the driver's side rear wheel.
You have a bad charcoal canister. You will never be able to keep the code from coming back until the canister is empty and that will take a loooong time. That happened on my 97 too. The charcoal canister is called the EVAP canister. It is located behind the driver's side rear wheel.
You could get a junkyard canister, but who knows how long that one wouid last.
Thankyou A TON. All I need to know is what to do and the rest I can get to no problem. This looks like a whole new project. But I kinda need to do it because my registration is several months past due. After 300,000 miles, I think elderly cars should be exempt from emissions tests to a degree lol.
So just to make sure I have the right process: I should get the large canister behind wheel, plus vapor canister purge control valve, plus canister cut purge valve. So 3 things, then go to auto parts store, clear code, drive 100 miles, then the emissions retest?
Now will my check engine light stay on because of the knock sensor and tranmissiom solenoid? Not a big deal but I can only have up to 3 codes. I've got 4.
Don't mess with the knock sensor until after you have fixed the P1400 and P1477 codes. The knock sensor code shows up almost every time you have some other code (but not the P07xx transmission codes) and goes away when you fix the other problems.
So just to make sure I have the right process: I should get the large canister behind wheel, plus vapor canister purge control valve, plus canister cut purge valve. So 3 things, then go to auto parts store, clear code, drive 100 miles, then the emissions retest?
Just get the charcoal EVAP canister. The little charcoal bits that are coming out of the canister are just interfering with the other valves operation. When you replace the canister, you should blow out the lines between the canister and the engine. Theoretically sucking the carbon bits into the cylinders is not a good thing.
I took the 2 valves off of the engine and worked the bits out of them. I used a short piece of vacuum tubing so that I could open the valves by sucking on the tubing. To blow out the lines I had to mickey mouse attaching a vacuum cleaner since I don't have an air compressor.
Originally Posted by 97_GXE
Now will my check engine light stay on because of the knock sensor and transmission solenoid? Not a big deal but I can only have up to 3 codes. I've got 4.
After you replace the EVAP canister, the 2 P14xx codes will still be there. You have to reset the codes to get rid of them right away, otherwise you have to drive the car for a few days to a week for them to go away. You can also reset the codes by turning a screw on the ECU. Here is a video about resetting the ECU. Copy and paste the link.
youtube.com/watch?v=3AYrSAtjFPI&index=3&list=PL51E3C3345DC2C64 F
The knock sensor code does not turn the check engine light on. While the code might be there, the light will be on from the transmission. As I said earlier, The knock sensor code likes to accompany most any other engine or emission system codes. If you fix the canister problem, you have a pretty good chance the knock sensor code will be gone. The knock sensor itself rarely goes bad. Probably 98% of all knock sensors replaced are still good.
Here is a link to a list of how-to videos like to one above.
So what I ended up doing is ordering the canister and the valve that sits right on top of the canister. About $80 all together, just because some reviews said the valve needed to be changed also.
Good call on the knock sensor. I've never heard any engine knock so I don't mind not messing with it.
I'm kinda confused about "blowing out the lines" between the canister and engine. I don't have a Garage so can't vacuum things out. But what I'm thinking is, disconnecting the 2 valves from the engine and just emptying them out. I hate to half do the job, but idk how much charcoal is in the lines.
This emissions test is taking place in Tennessee. Is 3 codes a lot of not enough? Lol. I passed 2 emissions tests in Colorado previously since I bought at 130,000 miles now to 336,000.
There is only one line, not lines as I automatically say. If you can't blow out the line, don't worry about it. Yes, there will be charcoal bits in the line. Don't waste your time cleaning out the valves on the engine when you replace the canister. Just drive the car and let the engine suck the charcoal bits out. Drive the car to work or whatever, probably an hour of running the engine will do it. Then you can clean the valves and reset the code(s).
There is only one line, not lines as I automatically say. If you can't blow out the line, don't worry about it. Yes, there will be charcoal bits in the line. Don't waste your time cleaning out the valves on the engine when you replace the canister. Just drive the car and let the engine suck the charcoal bits out. Drive the car to work or whatever, probably an hour of running the engine will do it. Then you can clean the valves and reset the code(s).
Now you've got me thinking lol. This is all new to me. Never done emissions type of work before. Exactly where are these charcoal bits being sucked into? Directly into the engine or The oil filter? Also is the charcoal being moved from the engine to the canister or from the canister to the engine?
From what I read the charcoal filter is catching fumes from the engine. But why would there be charcoal bits in the 2 valves on top of the intake manifold?
And before I do this job...do I need to pull the fuel pump fuse like I do when I change the fuel filter (hell I might as well do that while I'm at it). Since it's so close to the fuel tank...Im hoping fuel won't go spraying out all over the place when I pull the hoses.
When I bought the 98 model last summer, it was throwing evap codes. It turned out that the evap canister and valves where full of MUD. I can tell the previous owner drove the car in some deep mud that must have caused them to replace the transmission..
So I replaced the canister and valve (like you purchases) then cleaned out the other valves. I did not need to blow out the lines.
I later had to replace the white valve in the picture as cleaning it helped, but a code eventually returned.
This was an extreme case of abuse and neglect by the previous owner. I think if you clean up the valves without compressed air, then you should be ok. You can't undo what has already been ingested by the engine.
Now you've got me thinking lol. This is all new to me. Never done emissions type of work before. Exactly where are these charcoal bits being sucked into? Directly into the engine or The oil filter? Also is the charcoal being moved from the engine to the canister or from the canister to the engine?
The charcoal bits are being sucked out of the canister and into the intake manifold where they are burned up in the combustion process. Click on the link below and look at the diagram on the top of page 330
You might also want to look at the diagrams on pages 23 & 24.
Originally Posted by 97_GXE
From what I read the charcoal filter is catching fumes from the engine. But why would there be charcoal bits in the 2 valves on top of the intake manifold?
The charcoal filter (EVAP canister) is "caching" fumes from the gas tank, not the engine. Vacuum from the intake manifold is routed back to the EVAP canister through the EVAP canister purge volume control valve and EVAP canister purge control valve mounted on the intake manifold to pull gasoline fumes into the engine to be burned.
If the screen in the EVAP canister has somehow become damaged or broken, then the charcoal bits get sucked out.
Originally Posted by 97_GXE
And before I do this job...do I need to pull the fuel pump fuse like I do when I change the fuel filter (hell I might as well do that while I'm at it). Since it's so close to the fuel tank... I'm hoping fuel won't go spraying out all over the place when I pull the hoses.
Since you aren't going to be changing any parts with the engine running, at least I hope not, pulling the fuse is really unnecessary. You should not encounter any liquid gasoline in changing the EVAP canister. If you do, then you have additional problems. One of the other valves that are located in the back by the canister is bad, probably the white one CS_AR posted a photo of.
The gasoline that the fuel pump sends to the engine is using a different tube than the vacuum that comes from the engine.
Pulling the fuse to change the fuel filter is also unnecessary for changing the fuel filter. The fuel pump isn't going to run with the engine shut off.
The charcoal bits are being sucked out of the canister and into the intake manifold where they are burned up in the combustion process. Click on the link below and look at the diagram on the top of page 330
Pulling the fuse to change the fuel filter is also unnecessary for changing the fuel filter. The fuel pump isn't going to run with the engine shut off.
Thanks for explaining that, saved me a lot of having to disconnect the engine valves and emptying those out. However, I've read that pulling the fuse for the fuel pump relieves pressure to help the hose come off.
But yeah, I was able to get to it the other day and it was pretty easy, but the canister was never changed before. The original Tennex from Nissan, and some of the bolts were rusted and could have stripped. The hoses wouldn't budge but I use a clip remover to pry those off. Would have been nice if the new canister came with new bolts like the valve did. Also the Dorman part I ordered didn't quite click on the electrical connector that good...hope it doesn't come loose.
I assume changing the charcoal filter isn't necessarily a routine maintenance thing...
03-29-2017, 11:51 AM
