Any alignment specialist in the building?
08-18-2017, 07:22 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 303
Any alignment specialist in the building?
Need some advice here....
This is nothing new to me, but tired of hearing this same tired excuse every other time it comes time to get an alignment, depending what shop I'm at. They advertise a reasonable price, then you get in and they say they can't do the alignment, take you under the car and wiggle the wheel and say there's too much play in the steering and tie rods or something else need replaced for $200.
This particular shop made me upset because I waited 2 hours for them to get to it, and they also had some rule that it's $20 if they can't do the alignment...which I agreed to because seems more and more tire shops are charging $25 just to look at your car. But at the same time I've had more than enough places not charge for it. I just knew they weren't going to do it, I shouldn't of wasted their time and my money.
I specifically need an alignment because I had to chuck 2 front tires that wore to the threads on the insides. Now I have 2 good used tires up front, but now running into issue getting alignment.
I just can't understand why they can't just do the alignment the best they can. I've had play in my steering wheel since I've had it. I'm sure I could replace parts, but I can't afford $200. Also how does wiggling the wheel when it's not on the weight of the car has any effect. I've had places before say they can't do it, take it somewhere else and they can do it.
Problem is, I'm in Florida but need to go out of town next week and these mechanic shops never want to honor their advertised price on stuff. They always want to get you to pay more than you expected to pay for EVERYTIME regardless what kind of service it is. Last time a $59 a/c recharge came to $120. Always something which Is why I hate having to get any car work done in Florida when I'm visiting relatives. Rather do the work myself in my parents garage.
This is nothing new to me, but tired of hearing this same tired excuse every other time it comes time to get an alignment, depending what shop I'm at. They advertise a reasonable price, then you get in and they say they can't do the alignment, take you under the car and wiggle the wheel and say there's too much play in the steering and tie rods or something else need replaced for $200.
This particular shop made me upset because I waited 2 hours for them to get to it, and they also had some rule that it's $20 if they can't do the alignment...which I agreed to because seems more and more tire shops are charging $25 just to look at your car. But at the same time I've had more than enough places not charge for it. I just knew they weren't going to do it, I shouldn't of wasted their time and my money.
I specifically need an alignment because I had to chuck 2 front tires that wore to the threads on the insides. Now I have 2 good used tires up front, but now running into issue getting alignment.
I just can't understand why they can't just do the alignment the best they can. I've had play in my steering wheel since I've had it. I'm sure I could replace parts, but I can't afford $200. Also how does wiggling the wheel when it's not on the weight of the car has any effect. I've had places before say they can't do it, take it somewhere else and they can do it.
Problem is, I'm in Florida but need to go out of town next week and these mechanic shops never want to honor their advertised price on stuff. They always want to get you to pay more than you expected to pay for EVERYTIME regardless what kind of service it is. Last time a $59 a/c recharge came to $120. Always something which Is why I hate having to get any car work done in Florida when I'm visiting relatives. Rather do the work myself in my parents garage.
08-19-2017, 04:16 AM
#2
I understand your frustration with repair shops and I'm truly not trying to be disrespectful or argumentative but I just don't understand one's desire to bandaid issues and even more when there's an apparent expectation that others actually do it for you and then be irritated when they refuse.
With your car's suspension unloaded, there should be exceedingly little to no lateral movement in your wheel/hub assembly.
With notable lateral movement present, you have an issue that needs attention before you can expect any associated repair or adjustment to be effective.
There's no way, without actually seeing what your "wiggle" issue really is that most/any of us can diagnose your problem but, based on your previous conversations with shop personnel, you've apparently got an issue or they'd for sure do at least a crappy job completing the requested work.
Sorry to hear that your kinda stuck down here (FL) but you either likely need to suck it up and make the needed repairs here or suck it up getting the car back to your home location to get things taken care of.
With your car's suspension unloaded, there should be exceedingly little to no lateral movement in your wheel/hub assembly.
With notable lateral movement present, you have an issue that needs attention before you can expect any associated repair or adjustment to be effective.
There's no way, without actually seeing what your "wiggle" issue really is that most/any of us can diagnose your problem but, based on your previous conversations with shop personnel, you've apparently got an issue or they'd for sure do at least a crappy job completing the requested work.
Sorry to hear that your kinda stuck down here (FL) but you either likely need to suck it up and make the needed repairs here or suck it up getting the car back to your home location to get things taken care of.
Last edited by Turbobink; 08-19-2017 at 04:19 AM.
08-19-2017, 01:08 PM
#3
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 303
Lol, well it's not like I'm trying to be cheap or have any expectations for anything more than what I need done. Which is to get the steering wheel in line. In addition to the new tires I bought, I also have oil change and belt replacement to do. In addition to the alignment and in addition to the "outer tie rods." Last time I was here I had paid over $300 for a/c work and hoses. Most I did myself, one I took to a shop. So it's not so much that I can't afford $200, but I'm already pressed with other things needing to get replaced.
I have a shop in another state that does my alignments pretty well, and they do it to where I can drive in a straight line without needing to hold the steering wheel. Occasionally I'll go back to them and say another shop said I need to replace this and that, and they'll say they lied to me etc.
That said, idk I probably will take it to a different shop until someone says yes for right now. They seemed too eager to prove their word to me and that usually makes me feel they're more about getting in as many cars as possible and changing out the most parts as possible.
I have a shop in another state that does my alignments pretty well, and they do it to where I can drive in a straight line without needing to hold the steering wheel. Occasionally I'll go back to them and say another shop said I need to replace this and that, and they'll say they lied to me etc.
That said, idk I probably will take it to a different shop until someone says yes for right now. They seemed too eager to prove their word to me and that usually makes me feel they're more about getting in as many cars as possible and changing out the most parts as possible.
08-19-2017, 01:59 PM
#4
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
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Worn parts need to be replaced before an an alignment can be done. Just makes sense.
It seems you have been told exactly which parts need to be replaced. Of course, the shop hopes to do that work.
But you could also do the work yourself, or find a shade tree guy to do it. Have it aligned afterwards.
It seems you have been told exactly which parts need to be replaced. Of course, the shop hopes to do that work.
But you could also do the work yourself, or find a shade tree guy to do it. Have it aligned afterwards.
08-19-2017, 10:34 PM
#5
friggin rip off artists, i got a guy that'll tell me what's wrong up front and tell what parts i need and let me go pick them up myself to save money. sometimes he pisses me off and charges me more than expected, then sometimes i pay him nothing if he can't figure out the problem. sounds like you might need inner/outer tie rods ends or possibly sway bar end links, that'll wear the inside of your tire out faster if they're bad and cause some vibration as well. that's why shops wiggle your tires to check for that.
08-20-2017, 07:51 AM
#6
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central AR
Posts: 3,041
Based on four of my 4th gens that I purchased (or drove) to between 210,000 and 230,000 miles, I've seen the following suspension parts need replacement.
Ball Joints & Lower Control Arm (bushings) - The passenger side is usually has the most wear.
Tie Rod Ends
End Links
PS Rack Boots
Passenger Side Wheel Bearing
Note some of these parts could be considered to dangerous if left in an extremely worn state.
Many years ago I was driving a car at a very slow speed in my driveway when the lower ball joint broke loose. If I had been driving on the highway, it would have most likely caused a wreck.
Parts pictures from my most recent front end replacement.
Ball Joint
End Link
Inner Tie Rod End
End Link Separation
You can get an idea of parts cost in the following thread.
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...on-wheels.html
I've learned over the years to use the MOOG (Problem Solver) line of suspension components.
"Do it nice or do it twice."
Ball Joints & Lower Control Arm (bushings) - The passenger side is usually has the most wear.
Tie Rod Ends
End Links
PS Rack Boots
Passenger Side Wheel Bearing
Note some of these parts could be considered to dangerous if left in an extremely worn state.
Many years ago I was driving a car at a very slow speed in my driveway when the lower ball joint broke loose. If I had been driving on the highway, it would have most likely caused a wreck.
Parts pictures from my most recent front end replacement.
Ball Joint
End Link
Inner Tie Rod End
End Link Separation
You can get an idea of parts cost in the following thread.
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...on-wheels.html
I've learned over the years to use the MOOG (Problem Solver) line of suspension components.
"Do it nice or do it twice."
Last edited by CS_AR; 08-20-2017 at 08:38 AM.
08-20-2017, 11:41 PM
#8
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 303
Thanks everyone. Thinking it over, I think I will decide to let the shop I took it to fix it, but mainly because I hate to go somewhere else and explain the whole thing to them again or get told, "no you don't need that, you need this".
Pep boys gave me a good (albeit $1,200) write up couple years ago for LCA, tie Rod and ball joints and some other stuff. But, I had a my local Napa shop look at it and they aligned it without replacing anything.
But...I will say at 351,000 miles, most anything is liable to be replaced...and that's why I'm cheaping out where I can because these car repairs are starting to get overwhelming this year. I'm replacing major components every other month. Mostly Amazon and discount online prices though so I'm not breaking the bank. But I can't get a second job if I'm busy working on the car every week lol.
I do want MOOG. Though the quote for the tie Rod outer seems to be for drive works. Any experience with basic Drive works? That's the other thing I don't want...cheap parts that will break in a year and then get told by another shop they can't align it again.
Pep boys gave me a good (albeit $1,200) write up couple years ago for LCA, tie Rod and ball joints and some other stuff. But, I had a my local Napa shop look at it and they aligned it without replacing anything.
But...I will say at 351,000 miles, most anything is liable to be replaced...and that's why I'm cheaping out where I can because these car repairs are starting to get overwhelming this year. I'm replacing major components every other month. Mostly Amazon and discount online prices though so I'm not breaking the bank. But I can't get a second job if I'm busy working on the car every week lol.
I do want MOOG. Though the quote for the tie Rod outer seems to be for drive works. Any experience with basic Drive works? That's the other thing I don't want...cheap parts that will break in a year and then get told by another shop they can't align it again.
Last edited by 97_GXE; 08-20-2017 at 11:43 PM.
08-20-2017, 11:51 PM
#9
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 303
Sometimes I hit 110 mph on a LONE OPEN STRETCH of INTERSTATE (not liable for anyone crashing or getting arrested) to make sure everything is working properly. What's funny is, my ride is smoother at 100 mph than it is at 60, 70 and 80. It shakes a bit up until 95 mph then it just floats to 110 like nothing. But, idk I probably shouldn't if suspension parts are liable to fall off.
Last edited by 97_GXE; 08-20-2017 at 11:55 PM.
08-21-2017, 01:27 AM
#10
Just do it yourself, it really isn't that difficult. Alignment is one of those things where people see a word, and instantly think it's something you need specialized equipment for and that no DIY job will suffice. Which is bull****. String and jackstands is all you need. There are several videos on Youtube that clarify the process.
08-21-2017, 03:29 AM
#11
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central AR
Posts: 3,041
That's crazy. What kind of car was it though? Haven't had that happen yet. But since you bought it up, should I suggest to them to change out the ball joints with the outer tie Rod since they'll be in there? Or does that require disassembly of another part like the LCA etc?
Sometimes I hit 110 mph on a LONE OPEN STRETCH of INTERSTATE (not liable for anyone crashing or getting arrested) to make sure everything is working properly. What's funny is, my ride is smoother at 100 mph than it is at 60, 70 and 80. It shakes a bit up until 95 mph then it just floats to 110 like nothing. But, idk I probably shouldn't if suspension parts are liable to fall off.
Sometimes I hit 110 mph on a LONE OPEN STRETCH of INTERSTATE (not liable for anyone crashing or getting arrested) to make sure everything is working properly. What's funny is, my ride is smoother at 100 mph than it is at 60, 70 and 80. It shakes a bit up until 95 mph then it just floats to 110 like nothing. But, idk I probably shouldn't if suspension parts are liable to fall off.
If you find you need to replace your lower ball joints, here is a video on LCA replacement below. Instead of just replacing the ball joint, I get a new LCA to replace the whole unit.
Last edited by CS_AR; 08-21-2017 at 03:47 AM.
08-21-2017, 09:21 AM
#12
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Long Island
Posts: 1,564
Do your own Tie Rods (inner and outer). It is not really too difficult, just needs a special tool you can buy at Harbor Freight for $32. ($40 - 20% usual discount coupon) https://www.harborfreight.com/inner-...set-69619.html
You should be able to order all 4 Moog Tie Rod ends for around $100. Beck/Arnley Bellows 103-2680 for $25 a pair. So for a total of $157, your complete Tie Rod setup will be new again.
And then you can get an alignment that will be real when combined with new Moog PS LCA's like above. Might as well do the Sway bar end links too! Just make sure you have a grease gun for the fittings!
I'd like to tell you it's fun, but truthfully, the new handling feel is what makes it well worth it. (and not eating tires)
You should be able to order all 4 Moog Tie Rod ends for around $100. Beck/Arnley Bellows 103-2680 for $25 a pair. So for a total of $157, your complete Tie Rod setup will be new again.
And then you can get an alignment that will be real when combined with new Moog PS LCA's like above. Might as well do the Sway bar end links too! Just make sure you have a grease gun for the fittings!
I'd like to tell you it's fun, but truthfully, the new handling feel is what makes it well worth it. (and not eating tires)
08-21-2017, 10:41 AM
#13
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central AR
Posts: 3,041
As for Drive works suspension components, I tried them on a F150 a few years ago.. They lasted about 1.5 years. I know some guys who sell it that say they would only use it on a car they were going to trade off soon. Great warranty but for a short run it seems.
08-21-2017, 10:45 AM
#14
That was the 2nd scariest drive of my life. The worst was on my old Impala back in the early 90s while attending college. The left front rusted brake line starting leaking so I drove 24 miles home using the parking brake cable.
EDIT: I recall a mechanic asking me how in hell did I drive her with the LCA seperated from the knuckle? I presume the axle and tie rods held the knuckle on while I gave her a Grandma drive?
Last edited by jholley; 08-21-2017 at 10:57 AM.
08-21-2017, 07:51 PM
#16
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 303
I notice all those photos are SUVs. Which is why I don't have one. Too prone to flip and too much suspension work to be done.
I would love to do the work myself, but I just don't have the necessary resources to do it with. Also, I just turned 30...and even today just doing my own oil change, belt, oil switch...I'm beat, sore and can't do anything else for the day. I can handle top and minor under engine stuff, but getting under the car lying in that position is just too uncomfortable. Mechanics have a huge advantage by being able to hoist the car up.
Plus I used to live right next to advance auto and could run over if I got stuck and needed something. Now...I'm 7 miles from the nearest auto parts store at my parents. So I'm reluctant to take on anything too heavy duty.
But think I'll def make sure that they get MOOG or something comparable in quality.
I would love to do the work myself, but I just don't have the necessary resources to do it with. Also, I just turned 30...and even today just doing my own oil change, belt, oil switch...I'm beat, sore and can't do anything else for the day. I can handle top and minor under engine stuff, but getting under the car lying in that position is just too uncomfortable. Mechanics have a huge advantage by being able to hoist the car up.
Plus I used to live right next to advance auto and could run over if I got stuck and needed something. Now...I'm 7 miles from the nearest auto parts store at my parents. So I'm reluctant to take on anything too heavy duty.
But think I'll def make sure that they get MOOG or something comparable in quality.
08-21-2017, 09:32 PM
#17
I notice all those photos are SUVs. Which is why I don't have one. Too prone to flip and too much suspension work to be done.
I would love to do the work myself, but I just don't have the necessary resources to do it with. Also, I just turned 30...and even today just doing my own oil change, belt, oil switch...I'm beat, sore and can't do anything else for the day. I can handle top and minor under engine stuff, but getting under the car lying in that position is just too uncomfortable. Mechanics have a huge advantage by being able to hoist the car up.
Plus I used to live right next to advance auto and could run over if I got stuck and needed something. Now...I'm 7 miles from the nearest auto parts store at my parents. So I'm reluctant to take on anything too heavy duty.
But think I'll def make sure that they get MOOG or something comparable in quality.
I would love to do the work myself, but I just don't have the necessary resources to do it with. Also, I just turned 30...and even today just doing my own oil change, belt, oil switch...I'm beat, sore and can't do anything else for the day. I can handle top and minor under engine stuff, but getting under the car lying in that position is just too uncomfortable. Mechanics have a huge advantage by being able to hoist the car up.
Plus I used to live right next to advance auto and could run over if I got stuck and needed something. Now...I'm 7 miles from the nearest auto parts store at my parents. So I'm reluctant to take on anything too heavy duty.
But think I'll def make sure that they get MOOG or something comparable in quality.
and i'm in my 50's and was f'in around with the brake light issue i had on my knees and climbing around in the trunk. although i will agree it is easier to do suspension crap on a lift with help if your skill set is limited. insist on moog, nothing better imo and it lasts.
08-21-2017, 10:46 PM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Long Island
Posts: 1,564
I'm 57 and just built and installed all new strut assemblies and did the front end 2 years ago. All while the car was on a jack stand doing one wheel at a time. And I just did the brakes, front bearings and CV axles. Next is both parking brake cables.
No, it's not fun. Yes I pay physically.
But I am so frickin tired of paying top dollar for $&iT work and the run around that ensues afterward.
You'll get there some day!
No, it's not fun. Yes I pay physically.
But I am so frickin tired of paying top dollar for $&iT work and the run around that ensues afterward.
You'll get there some day!
08-22-2017, 12:29 AM
#19
i used to be a mechanic for years and alignments/transmissions were my bread and butter. there should be literally no play in the wheel on a 4th gen, in my 5 years at the last shop i worked at we had at least a dozen vehicles get towed in where the wheel tore off into the fender from people declining to do balljoints. then at that point they were adding a tie rod, axle, and strut to the bill. shops dont want to touch it because after you replace the worn parts you should technically get an alignment yet again. and my boss was a ***** that charged $160/hour labour that left you with a square **** afterwards.
i dont know if it exists anymore but way back when i had my 3rd gen about 8 years ago on Ebay there was a seller that had a kit with brand new control arms, tie rods, balljoints, etc as a combo for like $150 and i just redid my entire front end back then. no-name parts but worked 100%, id just redo everything while youre in there
i dont know if it exists anymore but way back when i had my 3rd gen about 8 years ago on Ebay there was a seller that had a kit with brand new control arms, tie rods, balljoints, etc as a combo for like $150 and i just redid my entire front end back then. no-name parts but worked 100%, id just redo everything while youre in there
08-22-2017, 05:54 AM
#20
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central AR
Posts: 3,041
c'mon man, 30?dennis and cs_ar are in their 80's i think, and i'm in my 50's and was f'in around with the brake light issue i had on my knees and climbing around in the trunk. although i will agree it is easier to do suspension crap on a lift with help if your skill set is limited. insist on moog, nothing better imo and it lasts.
and i'm in my 50's and was f'in around with the brake light issue i had on my knees and climbing around in the trunk. although i will agree it is easier to do suspension crap on a lift with help if your skill set is limited. insist on moog, nothing better imo and it lasts.
08-22-2017, 02:23 PM
#22
I just turned 30... and even today just doing my own oil change, belt, oil switch... I'm beat, sore and can't do anything else for the day. I can handle top and minor under engine stuff, but getting under the car lying in that position is just too uncomfortable. Mechanics have a huge advantage by being able to hoist the car up.
So you young whippersnappers better treat me with respect or I'll come to your house and die on your front porch. Have fun explaining that to the local constabulary.
08-22-2017, 11:50 PM
#23
What do you do for a living that you have so little physical stamina? You better start doing something for exercise so you will see your 60th birthday.
There are only a few guys on the org that are older than me. For the record, I'm 72.
So you young whippersnappers better treat me with respect or I'll come to your house and die on your front porch. Have fun explaining that to the local constabulary.
There are only a few guys on the org that are older than me. For the record, I'm 72.
So you young whippersnappers better treat me with respect or I'll come to your house and die on your front porch. Have fun explaining that to the local constabulary.
I'm 42 in dec and i feel beat after working on the cars....but i guess i don't do minor car work
08-23-2017, 05:24 AM
#24
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central AR
Posts: 3,041
Thanks KP. Hopefully I'll get a 3-day weekend with Labor Day to work on the struts.
As for alignments, I usually purchase Firestone's Lifetime Alignment package. I see it lists for $189. Usually they will give a 10% off discount for some coupon or customer appreciation deal. The Lifetime package works for me because I'm usually doing something that requires alignment to be checked or adjusted every 18 months.
I will be using the package for the 3rd time on the 99 model when I install new struts next month.
As for alignments, I usually purchase Firestone's Lifetime Alignment package. I see it lists for $189. Usually they will give a 10% off discount for some coupon or customer appreciation deal. The Lifetime package works for me because I'm usually doing something that requires alignment to be checked or adjusted every 18 months.
I will be using the package for the 3rd time on the 99 model when I install new struts next month.
08-23-2017, 05:28 AM
#25
The amount of work that the backyard mechanic can do on today's cars is becoming less and less every time the cars are re-designed. You need to have a full garage equipped with hoists, lifts and all kinds of expensive equipment. There are a couple of cars now where you have to pull the engine to change spark plugs - that's crazy.
But as a person, you need to do activity. With all the conveniences/automation we have, we don't do very much activity. The doctors/medical people are right in that aspect. You have to find something that interests you and do it. And do it frequently, not once in a great while. Or everything you try will exhaust you more than it should.
But as a person, you need to do activity. With all the conveniences/automation we have, we don't do very much activity. The doctors/medical people are right in that aspect. You have to find something that interests you and do it. And do it frequently, not once in a great while. Or everything you try will exhaust you more than it should.
08-23-2017, 05:53 AM
#26
What do you do for a living that you have so little physical stamina? You better start doing something for exercise so you will see your 60th birthday.
There are only a few guys on the org that are older than me. For the record, I'm 72.
So you young whippersnappers better treat me with respect or I'll come to your house and die on your front porch. Have fun explaining that to the local constabulary.
There are only a few guys on the org that are older than me. For the record, I'm 72.
So you young whippersnappers better treat me with respect or I'll come to your house and die on your front porch. Have fun explaining that to the local constabulary.
my father is 76 and i was thinking maybe your in your 60's. for the record, anyone on here thats managed to keep a maxima or any car running for more than 10 years should be called "master". 
08-23-2017, 10:08 AM
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 2,979
I've kept my Maxima going for 11 years and 110 k miles.
I'm a relativly young 63 years old.
I removed, rebuilt, and replaced an engine in an other car all by myself earlier this year.
Yes, my body felt my age.
At 30, you are young, not old.
I'm a relativly young 63 years old.
I removed, rebuilt, and replaced an engine in an other car all by myself earlier this year.
Yes, my body felt my age.
At 30, you are young, not old.
08-23-2017, 12:39 PM
#28
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: SoCal
Posts: 472
I also am a relatively young 63 y/o. I work on my car because I want the job done right and save $$$. I will have a mechanic I trust work on it when I don't have the time or too much special equipment is involved. The great thing about my I30 is that almost nothing has gone wrong with it. I will be doing that leaking UOP sometime in my near future. My car has run 60K with few problems in the 5 years I have had it. I love this car.
08-24-2017, 06:48 PM
#31
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 303
Whoa, whoa, whoa guys! Y'all have me quite mistaken lol. I am actually in very good shape, I lift weights and do cardio (on days I'm not working on my car). I have worked on my car so many times since I had it in 2012, that neighbors would get "annoyed" sometimes. Trust me, I have no qualms working on my car and I honestly trust very few mechanics...because nobody is going to do it like me. I have been changing my oil every 2-3 months myself since 2012. They aren't going to take the time to measure the oil on the dipstick to perfection like I do. Off the top of my head, I've done all on my own:
2 Thermostats
Condenser (and the mechanic scolds me for doing a/c work when I took it in to get pressurized and charged)
Radiator
Valve covers
EGR valve (yesterday finally)
Charcoal canister
Throttle body
Speakers
DVD in dash (had no idea about car electronics, had to self teach)
Interior Door handles
Headlight swaps
Transmission fluid change/flush with filter screen/gasket
A/c drier
Starter
Seats
Blower motor
Hood struts
All indoor/outside lights and speedometer lights
Instrumental panel swap
Seat belts
Drive belt
Alternator (killed me, took 2 days!)
...sure there's more but can't remember lol.
Now, as far as why I have been hesitant to do some jobs...for one I have a jack and jack stands. I also have 215/55r16 wheels. So the jacks and jack stands I have won't even lift the tires off the ground to get proper suspension work. Also, I've had issues where I've taken the tire off...then can't get it back on straight because the brake housing or strut moves out of place to where only a spare will fit.
The other thing, you'll notice most all those things did not involve excessive under carriage work. I was deep under my car the other day doing oil switch change. All I could think about was my jackstands having a defect, and having the oil pan crush my head open and it be all over the news lol. I HATE being under the car, it scares me. I don't trust jack stands. I also can't get the car high enough to really move my arms properly (I have long arms which comes in handy on the engine but NOT under the car). And to add to it all...I have residues of oil both new and hold that occasionally drip down...god forbid it gets onto my face or eyes.
All in all, I'm just limited. Now, when I had a second car...I took that time to spend a week changing my VC gaskets and fan motor and oil changes. But with 1 car, I have to make sure I can finish before nightfall (even in a garage I can't see **** at night). Also have a job where I can get called in mostly evenings, so I can't **** around and have a whole axle apart and have to take off work because some stupid bolt gets frozen. Not to mention, runnin to get new tools, more cleaning rags, etc.
That said...yesterday I sprained my hand trying to remove the EGR valve because the damn bolt was rusted frozen and kept having to apply several intense pressures. So my left hand has had a numbness/tingling like when you hit your funny bone for the past 2 days.
Also...the moral of the story: I ended up just driving around town and looking for another tire/alignment shop and SURE ENOUGH, found a place run by Latinos who only charged me $160 for the job (the other shop would have wanted extra $90 for MOOG and the front desk mechanic was being such an *** hole, I didn't even want to spend my money there anymore) LIFE SAVER! I know that defeats the purpose of making a thread asking and all the replies have been GREAT...but I'm sorry I don't have the inclination or equipment to do suspension or axle work lol.
2 Thermostats
Condenser (and the mechanic scolds me for doing a/c work when I took it in to get pressurized and charged)
Radiator
Valve covers
EGR valve (yesterday finally)
Charcoal canister
Throttle body
Speakers
DVD in dash (had no idea about car electronics, had to self teach)
Interior Door handles
Headlight swaps
Transmission fluid change/flush with filter screen/gasket
A/c drier
Starter
Seats
Blower motor
Hood struts
All indoor/outside lights and speedometer lights
Instrumental panel swap
Seat belts
Drive belt
Alternator (killed me, took 2 days!)
...sure there's more but can't remember lol.
Now, as far as why I have been hesitant to do some jobs...for one I have a jack and jack stands. I also have 215/55r16 wheels. So the jacks and jack stands I have won't even lift the tires off the ground to get proper suspension work. Also, I've had issues where I've taken the tire off...then can't get it back on straight because the brake housing or strut moves out of place to where only a spare will fit.
The other thing, you'll notice most all those things did not involve excessive under carriage work. I was deep under my car the other day doing oil switch change. All I could think about was my jackstands having a defect, and having the oil pan crush my head open and it be all over the news lol. I HATE being under the car, it scares me. I don't trust jack stands. I also can't get the car high enough to really move my arms properly (I have long arms which comes in handy on the engine but NOT under the car). And to add to it all...I have residues of oil both new and hold that occasionally drip down...god forbid it gets onto my face or eyes.
All in all, I'm just limited. Now, when I had a second car...I took that time to spend a week changing my VC gaskets and fan motor and oil changes. But with 1 car, I have to make sure I can finish before nightfall (even in a garage I can't see **** at night). Also have a job where I can get called in mostly evenings, so I can't **** around and have a whole axle apart and have to take off work because some stupid bolt gets frozen. Not to mention, runnin to get new tools, more cleaning rags, etc.
That said...yesterday I sprained my hand trying to remove the EGR valve because the damn bolt was rusted frozen and kept having to apply several intense pressures. So my left hand has had a numbness/tingling like when you hit your funny bone for the past 2 days.
Also...the moral of the story: I ended up just driving around town and looking for another tire/alignment shop and SURE ENOUGH, found a place run by Latinos who only charged me $160 for the job (the other shop would have wanted extra $90 for MOOG and the front desk mechanic was being such an *** hole, I didn't even want to spend my money there anymore) LIFE SAVER! I know that defeats the purpose of making a thread asking and all the replies have been GREAT...but I'm sorry I don't have the inclination or equipment to do suspension or axle work lol.
Last edited by 97_GXE; 08-24-2017 at 07:02 PM.
08-24-2017, 07:13 PM
#32
What kind of jack are you using that won't raise the wheel high enough off the ground so you can change the tire? Is it a floor jack or some other kind?
You can get 2 ton floor jacks at a lot of places and they are not very expensive. I got mine at harbor freight many years ago and it is still going strong.
And ditto for jack stands. Get a pair of 3 ton ratcheting jack stands. Again, not that expensive. The car weighs about 2 tons, so jack stands capable of supporting 6 tons (3 x 2) work great.
As for changing oil, I did not always jack the car up at all. There is enough room that you can slide far enough under there. The hardest part is finding a catch pan that will slide under there.
You can get 2 ton floor jacks at a lot of places and they are not very expensive. I got mine at harbor freight many years ago and it is still going strong.
And ditto for jack stands. Get a pair of 3 ton ratcheting jack stands. Again, not that expensive. The car weighs about 2 tons, so jack stands capable of supporting 6 tons (3 x 2) work great.
As for changing oil, I did not always jack the car up at all. There is enough room that you can slide far enough under there. The hardest part is finding a catch pan that will slide under there.
08-24-2017, 09:11 PM
#33
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 303
What kind of jack are you using that won't raise the wheel high enough off the ground so you can change the tire? Is it a floor jack or some other kind?
You can get 2 ton floor jacks at a lot of places and they are not very expensive. I got mine at harbor freight many years ago and it is still going strong.
And ditto for jack stands. Get a pair of 3 ton ratcheting jack stands. Again, not that expensive. The car weighs about 2 tons, so jack stands capable of supporting 6 tons (3 x 2) work great.
As for changing oil, I did not always jack the car up at all. There is enough room that you can slide far enough under there. The hardest part is finding a catch pan that will slide under there.
You can get 2 ton floor jacks at a lot of places and they are not very expensive. I got mine at harbor freight many years ago and it is still going strong.
And ditto for jack stands. Get a pair of 3 ton ratcheting jack stands. Again, not that expensive. The car weighs about 2 tons, so jack stands capable of supporting 6 tons (3 x 2) work great.
As for changing oil, I did not always jack the car up at all. There is enough room that you can slide far enough under there. The hardest part is finding a catch pan that will slide under there.
I'm sure someone can google a story where a jackstand has failed and came falling on top of someone. Rhino ramps aside, maybe if there exists some sort of drive up ramp where all 4 tires are off the ground, I might consider it. Until then, mechanics still have advantage of being able to hoist a car 5-7 feet in the air lol
I always have to Jack the car up and remove the splash guard to get to the oil filter, but sometimes change the oil without filter with no Jack required.
Last edited by 97_GXE; 08-24-2017 at 09:13 PM.
08-25-2017, 10:07 AM
#35
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 2,979
I have 2 brands, one from Sears and another from pepboys. 2 tons. I have a hydraulic floor Jack which does the job also. Maybe I'm not using the correct Jack points. I place the jack on the metal support beam that starts from behind the radiator and goes all the way back. Then, I place the stands on the radiator support frame. I feel like if I don't have the tires on the ground, that beam could crumble under the weight of the car since part of it is rusted.
I'm sure someone can google a story where a jackstand has failed and came falling on top of someone. Rhino ramps aside, maybe if there exists some sort of drive up ramp where all 4 tires are off the ground, I might consider it. Until then, mechanics still have advantage of being able to hoist a car 5-7 feet in the air lol
I always have to Jack the car up and remove the splash guard to get to the oil filter, but sometimes change the oil without filter with no Jack required.
I'm sure someone can google a story where a jackstand has failed and came falling on top of someone. Rhino ramps aside, maybe if there exists some sort of drive up ramp where all 4 tires are off the ground, I might consider it. Until then, mechanics still have advantage of being able to hoist a car 5-7 feet in the air lol
I always have to Jack the car up and remove the splash guard to get to the oil filter, but sometimes change the oil without filter with no Jack required.
I use the bar between the radiator support and the cross member behind the oil pan.
I place my jacks under the frame member behind the front wheels.
I'm able to raise the car about 12 to 18 inches this way.
I have a low clearancestors floor jack.
08-26-2017, 02:03 AM
#36
I jack the car up one side at a time, putting the jack either under the rocker panel where the spare tire scissor jack goes or on the lca by the ball joint. For the rocker panel, I have an adapter that I made so I don't crush the metal strip. If i use the lca, I use a piece of 2x4 to cushion the contact point.
Then I position the jack stands on the rear lca bushings.
Then I position the jack stands on the rear lca bushings.