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Alright so i get back to my car and go to start....it starts really rough. (Its been slightly rough the past few weeks but not like what just happened)
It was running awful sputtering and such..... Put it in reverse still sputtering, put it in drive still sputtering, started driving home the car had very little power ...still able to get up to 50 faster than grandma would but still sputtering....... So halfway home i start hearing a popping noise every 5 seconds or so ( while going 50) so i pull in the gas station and check everything real quick it seemed fine.
eventually im 2 minutea from home at a redlight (still sputtering) and i smell extreme rotten eggs and unburnt gasoline. Im guessing clogged cat.... But i sont want to be hasty....and i sorta just want second opinion ....did the popping cause damage anywhere else?
Alright so i get back to my car and go to start....it starts really rough. (Its been slightly rough the past few weeks but not like what just happened)
It was running awful sputtering and such..... Put it in reverse still sputtering, put it in drive still sputtering, started driving home the car had very little power ...still able to get up to 50 faster than grandma would but still sputtering....... So halfway home i start hearing a popping noise every 5 seconds or so ( while going 50) so i pull in the gas station and check everything real quick it seemed fine.
eventually im 2 minutea from home at a redlight (still sputtering) and i smell extreme rotten eggs and unburnt gasoline. Im guessing clogged cat.... But i sont want to be hasty....and i sorta just want second opinion ....did the popping cause damage anywhere else?
Look up fuel pressure regulator and also, and especially, fuel injector pintil caps.
Our cars fuel injectors are at an age when leaking is common. This can result wit a car running like yours. If it is driven long enough while injectors leak, the cat will get baked, it can clog inside.
Ok im going to assume the cat is toast and needs to be replaced.
That aside im going to look towards the injectors be the culprit after reading what jvg suggested.
I now plan on replacing the FPR and the fuel injectors and maybe the igniton coils ( most likely) ...
i know there is controversy on which fuel injectors to buy and not buy, so it would be appreciated if anyone could tell me where to shop.....i normally use rock auto.....but im also kind of in a hurry to get the job done since i dont have second vehicle
Literally just ordered those thank you Wizard, after reading CS_AR's amazing results with them...also ordered the felpro gaskets suggested..... Now im looking at 1a-auto for the ignition coils https://www.1aauto.com/infiniti-i30-...=359845&y=1999
ill probably get the FPR from autozone pr something ....
any other suggestions ? Id rather knock everything out in one shot ...this stuffs not to expensive (considering what it would cost to take it somewhere to get fixed)
Replace the fuel injection hose while you are in there. Also the fuel filter if it's old.
Might as well replace the heater hoses while they are accessible. The knock sensor if it's cracked, the egr tubes could use a cleaning.
Spray the iacv, and the throttle body.
All these additional things are more easily done whIle the upper intake manifold is off.
Oh yes, if your rear valve cover is leaking, now is a great time to fix that.
I had my injectors rebuilt.
Once the injectors and the other stuff was done, my engine runs like a new one.
If you're refreshing the fuel injectors, it's also a good time to clean the throttle body and EGR system too. Maybe even the MAF. You're engine will feel like a teenager again!
As far as Coil Packs go, I have a 99 and they were a bit more problematic with the choices available and all. After a lot of reading I decided on NAPA's offering for the two that went bad, and they've performed flawlessly for 6 years now.
Might as well replace the spark plugs while the coils are out.
I know that my to-do list is extensive. It's based on the concept that it's easier to replace parts while a part of the car has been dis assembled for an unrelated reason.
Because sometimes 80 percent of the time involved with replacing a part is spent removing other parts to gain access to the intended part.
If time or money is a factor, replace the injectors, the hoses, the fuel filter, and the knock sensor if it's cracked. You can see the crack by looking into the cranny it lives in. You can order a cheap one on Amazon. They work fine.
Check the fuel pressure regulator by removing the vaccuum hose attached to it. If there is gas in the vaccuum line, replace the fpr. If not, you might want to trust it.
The other parts I mentioned add to reliability.
CS_AR has a wonderful write up and a photo extravaganza about the entire project. Look it up.
Thanks for the help so far guys .....i have just about everything ordered....
fuel pressure regulator
Valve cover gasket kit
Intake gasket kit
Fuel injectors
ignition coils
as for the rest i keep up on the car pretty well.
so the throttle body was cleaned a couple months ago when i changed the filter ...spark plugs are only a few months old($12 ngk platinums) , fuel filter was changed less than a year ago..
So mostly have to look into how to clean egr and such
If you do not send the injectors out for flow testing, I would run three injectors on the left bank (at the front of the car) for a couple of weeks to thoroughly test them. If the test out good, then move the three tested injectors under the intake manifold.
If you find you have a bad injector, you want it to be in the easiest location for replacement.
Remember to oil the o-rings and seals with motor oil or petroleum jelly before installation. A dry seal can pinch during installation and cause a leak afterward.
Be careful with low-cost ignition coils. I would swap in one at a time to verify the ones you purchased doesn't introduce new issues. I have only used an old OEM coil that I pick up from a junk yard.
If you do not send the injectors out for flow testing, I would run three injectors on the left bank (at the front of the car) for a couple of weeks to thoroughly test them. If the test out good, then move the three tested injectors under the intake manifold.
If you find you have a bad injector, you want it to be in the easiest location for replacement.
Remember to oil the o-rings and seals with motor oil or petroleum jelly before installation. A dry seal can pinch during installation and cause a leak afterward.
Be careful with low-cost ignition coils. I would swap in one at a time to verify the ones you purchased doesn't introduce new issues. I have only used an old OEM coil that I pick up from a junk yard.
Thank you sir im about to order the the spacers and cap cushions... Could you explain more in detail about what the cap cushions are
Whats the procedure to test injectors with multimeter?
Here you go. Most all of the new ones I've tested were between 11 and 12 Ohms - like 11.4 to 11.6. I think the spec is like 11 to 15 ohms. What is your reading?
Thank you for the info sir....they have not arrived yet im expecting them tuesday hopefully sooner....im tearing engine down now and figured id test the originals....
On another note i just pulled off the UIM and found that my gasket seems to have been warped
..yikes good thing i planned ahead
Are you running a Cali spec car? I see an extra vacuum device at the back of the LIM that I'm not familiar with. Since you have the UIM off, we need to show you how to bypass the EGR u-shaped PITA hose.
Are you running a Cali spec car? I see an extra vacuum device at the back of the LIM that I'm not familiar with. Since you have the UIM off, we need to show you how to bypass the EGR u-shaped PITA hose.
Yes it is cali spec ....what benefits come from the bypass
Yes it is cali spec ....what benefits come from the bypass
It makes UIM installation and removal easier. I plug off the water line ports at the back of the UIM. The plugs are for looks. There are a number of 4th gen owners who have made the bypass. The pictures below are from a 99 model with an electric EGR. The concept is the same with a vacuum EGR. Basically just route around the U shaped tube that runs through the back of the UIM.
Alright so go figure the injectors get lost in the mail..... No idea when ill see them cant go another week without the car.....
heres the original injectors
They all seem to be clear of clogs everythings still attached ...(blacks sleeves slightly wiggle) ...the "cups" they were sitting in were clean ... They all read 11.4- 11.5 ohms
Bout to call it and put it back together and replace everything but the injectors
One of the cylinders seems to be flooded with gasoline..... The top of the piston is submerged in gas ...only in one cylinder though....possible ignition coil issue?
Is that a definite?... Not saying youre wrong but could you explain so i understand (not my expertise).if so i need to stop and hopefully those injectors show up in the mail soon
The reason one of the cylinders is flooded is a leaking fuel injector.
A bad one will leak both as the engine runs, but also when it does not.
It will cause an engine to run extra rich, which can result in misfiring.
Residual fuel pressure is still present in the fuel system after the engine has been turned off.
This residual pressure is intended to help with re-starting the engone after a short time.
If there is a leaking injector, the residual pressure will escape through the leak. The gasoline will partially fill the cylinder.
Based on this information, you have not only confirmed that there is a leak, but also which one had the problem right now.
Since the other injectors are also old, they might start leaking soon as well.
Thanks for the clarification...i truly appreciate the help.....hopefully usps can find my package and i can get this back together....
As far as the cat goes...can i assume it will need to be replaced from unburnt fuel?
my plan was to have a new cat back installed.....and if everything checked out ok i was going to order a warpspeed y pipe to throw on..
As long as you can accelerate well after the car is done, the cat might be ok.
If it's still a slug afterwards, the cat might need to be replaced.
As I recall, CS-ARs inital experience with injectors included a nearly blocked cat. It would run if the oxygen sensors were removed. The engine could exhaust through the holes.
Ok well extremely disappointed...they finally found my package and got it delivered , but it came in a 5x6 "padded" envelope(looks like its been used a few times all the bubbles are popped no cusion at all) none of them seem to be constructed properly , the pintle caps on all them seem to have a different gap from the plastic piece on the other side of the lower o-ring.
none of the plastic pieces ( the one with 4 slots going around above lower o-ring) match in color
(1 red, 2 brown, 3 green) and they all seem warn and discolored in places.
the white screens going around the bottom of the injector are ripped up (not sure what its made of seems like lower grade metal screen than oem)
also the gap where the top o-ring sits is noticably larger ..
Can someone please give me a reputable seller i can get these from....never expected this poor of a result. Different color plastic pieces Ripped screen.....
Also red paint chips on all injectors where it shouldnt be from banging around in shipping.(these werent even plastic bagged or anything) Gash going across the injector holes Gap between pintle cap and plastic piece above lower o-ring Gap where upper o-ring sits Packaging
Please anyone with a good affordable source for these injectors let me know kind of urgent
thanks everyone
I had my injectors rebuilt and flow tested by Injector RX in Houston in the past. They do a beautiful job.
18 bucks per injector. One day service in most cases. Priority express mail by USPS. Two day shipping.
Considering the recent storm in Houston, I would call them first.
Sorry to hear about the bad deal. Drew I bought my injectors from a completely different seller at $11 each. So I paid a little more at roughly $66 for a set...Also I bought a spare in the event one turned out to be bad. All injectors tested good.
All this is provided in the thread below that I posted above.
If you want to refurbish you existing injectors, I've had good luck with the following kit. The kit is for an 8 cylinder. It doesn't hurt to have a couple of spares. I'm running injectors that I refurbished over 3 years ago in the 99 model without issue.
Thanks everyone,
i ended up ordering from rockauto.com they are made by GB Remanufacturing, which seemed to be a decent company from what i researched,
they came out to 275 for 6 (-$108 for core charge so about $170)
i was going to order directly from your link CS_AR. But the seller is on vacation still and i was in need ,and figured they would be similar quality from all the reading about the "mass refurbishing" of these injectors. Injectors are an item you should have before you need them i guess lol.
Anyway i got 2 day shipping from rockauto for like $8. Kind of just bit the bullet ....i was going to buy from napa use those and return the injectors when they came in mail from ebay. But napa charges $199 per injector, $1200 is a bit much to tie up on something thats not a sure thing.
So i guess ill rebuild my originals just incase so i have spares.... How is a leaky injector fixed with the kit shown in CS_AR's link (sorry not sure where these leak from).
As for the ebay order i disputed with my credit card. Which always seems to be the best way to avoid getting screwed over, even though ebay values the buyer and there policy covers any mishaps. Id rather be safe than sorry ...
So hopefully injectors show up tomorrow and i never have to worry again.
i was going to order directly from your link CS_AR. But the seller is on vacation still and i was in need ,and figured they would be similar quality from all the reading about the "mass refurbishing" of these injectors. Injectors are an item you should have before you need them i guess lol.
Ordering injectors for preventative maintenance on the 98 model is exactly what I did with the $11 injectors. The car was running good before I swapped out the injectors. After experiencing the problems and expense that came with leaking on the 99 model, I vowed to try to avoid that situation in the future. It took a while to receive the injectors from China, but that do appear to be authentic Chinese JECS injectors.
The Germany, Bosch, Japan, JECS, China JECS progression explained below.
JECS Corporation ( formerly Japan Electrical Control Systems Co Ltd) is an automotive components company headquartered in Isesaki, Gunma, Japan and a wholly owned subsidiary of Hitachi. Its principal products are electronic control units, software, semiconductors, mechatronics, resin molding, inspection technology and material analysis.
JECS was formed in June 1973. It was a joint venture between Robert Bosch GmbH, Nissan Motor Co. and Diesel Kiki Co., Ltd.. It enabled Nissan to use Bosch's engine control technology, and gave Bosch access to the Japanese market. JECS later expanded to manufacture many other automotive parts besides EFI systems.
2003 Unisia JECS opens factory in Shenzhen, China, to cut costs as demanded by Nissan.
So JECS injectors made for Nissan after 2002 are from Shenzhen, China.
That explains the JECS injectors from China sources to me. Injector manufacturers should be setting up production lines to build injectors in 1,000 unit lots or more. I believe the JECS from China injectors we find today are manufacturing surplus. How many people driving a 240sx, 300zx, or Maxima (e.g. 270cc red top) are replacing injectors over the course of a year? The potential market is dwindling each time one of those cars is taken off the road or gets new BWD injectors that are made in the U.S.
Because supply from China is greater than the current worldwide demand, we get to enjoy some good pricing from the oversupply. Unfortunately, there will always be people looking to undercut the market norm some with some type of refurbs or parts of questionable quality.
So i guess ill rebuild my originals just incase so i have spares.... How is a leaky injector fixed with the kit shown in CS_AR's link (sorry not sure where these leak from).
The injectors seem to leak from the lower o-ring become flat so it no longer seals with the rail. That allows fuel to pass into the lower intake manifold.
Here's a starting post on a thread that shows how to refurbish injectors using the PS Performance Kit from the link above. I refurbished my old injectors and keep them as spares. I donated three to a good cause not long ago.
Awesome, that does make alot of sense about the injectors being "leftovers" . thanks for the history lesson too lol.
Im going to order the rebuild kit and rebuild my originals so i have spares to keep my mindat ease....hearing jvg is running his 3 years later is impressive...i thought it was a much more complicated part so i never thought of rebuilding.
Anyway, fedex shows my package arriving today. So i should be able to have it back together by tonight.
Im having a lite paranoia about any tiny debris that my have gotten on the piston tops while removing the LIM ....so i was wondering if there was a good way to give the piston tops a quick rinse (not trying to clean just get any dust that may have gotten in, out)
i was thinking: fill all cylinders halfway with gasoline and then, using a turkey baster suck it back out. Let me know what you think.
I had my injectors professional rebuilt. I did not use a diy kit.
Regarding possible debris on the piston tops.
I would not use the gasoline method. Doubt it would do any good.
I have used compressed air for that purpose.
I have encountered spark plugs which were difficult to remove. I screwed in a plug chaser coated with grease to catch the chips. Any remaining debris came out with the air hose.
I had my injectors professional rebuilt. I did not use a diy kit.
Regarding possible debris on the piston tops.
I would not use the gasoline method. Doubt it would do any good.
I have used compressed air for that purpose.
I have encountered spark plugs which were difficult to remove. I screwed in a plug chaser coated with grease to catch the chips. Any remaining debris came out with the air hose.
Alright perfect i was afraid to use air in there and damage something ( or get more stuff in there)... Which psi would you reccomend
I have an attachment with a little nozzle on it. The tip is about 1/8 inch. PSI about 90.
I placed the nozzle off to one side of the hole.
And aimed so that the air would circle around in there, like a tornado. I wanted the little tornado to escape through the open area of the plug hole.
09-11-2017, 01:28 PM
