99 5 speed clutch replacement in 2017
09-22-2017, 07:53 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: AL
Posts: 363
99 5 speed clutch replacement in 2017
I've been digging around but I'd like some modern recommendations on parts for my clutch. I'm slipping a little bit on 3rd, 4th and 5th gear - have a friend who's done a clutch before that's willing to help... So I plan on taking care of it next month.
-The rear crank seal is a little bit leaky (advice / tips / part numbers on that are appreciated)
-I replaced the driver's side axle seal last spring but didn't do the passenger side as it was impossible to get to... Time to take care of that
The shifter has been behaving so I don't feel the need to change anything, but I want to perform maintenance on it when I have it apart. What should I be swapping out? I don't want to sacrifice quality, but I don't want to spend OEM money on it either...
Part numbers are especially appreciated!!! Guidance and tips are appreciated too
- Flywheel - what's closest to OEM?
- Ring gear - does this typically come with the flywheel?
- Clutch, pressure plate etc. - who sells a good kit that's close to OEM quality?
- What seals / bearings / bushings should I be replacing when I drop the transmission?
- I have the hayne's manual but are there any good guides / videos online that will assist in this effort?
-The rear crank seal is a little bit leaky (advice / tips / part numbers on that are appreciated)
-I replaced the driver's side axle seal last spring but didn't do the passenger side as it was impossible to get to... Time to take care of that
The shifter has been behaving so I don't feel the need to change anything, but I want to perform maintenance on it when I have it apart. What should I be swapping out? I don't want to sacrifice quality, but I don't want to spend OEM money on it either...
Part numbers are especially appreciated!!! Guidance and tips are appreciated too
09-22-2017, 10:10 AM
#2
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Long Island
Posts: 1,564
Start Here: https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...ce-clutch.html
But also do a search in the 4th Gen forum area because there's LOTS of buried info.
You can only do the rear main seal right with the transmission off, so you'd be out of your mind to not do it being you are already in this deep.
Not sure what it takes to do the front seal on the 5-speed, but if easy, do that too.
While you have everything apart, research about what area gets corrosion by the sensor and won't let the car start and make sure that's nice and bare metal again. Nekkid!
I still need those perfect body parts and interior parts, so if you throw in the towel, Right Here Dude!
But also do a search in the 4th Gen forum area because there's LOTS of buried info.
You can only do the rear main seal right with the transmission off, so you'd be out of your mind to not do it being you are already in this deep.
Not sure what it takes to do the front seal on the 5-speed, but if easy, do that too.
While you have everything apart, research about what area gets corrosion by the sensor and won't let the car start and make sure that's nice and bare metal again. Nekkid!
I still need those perfect body parts and interior parts, so if you throw in the towel, Right Here Dude!
09-22-2017, 01:06 PM
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: AL
Posts: 363
Start Here: https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...ce-clutch.html
But also do a search in the 4th Gen forum area because there's LOTS of buried info.
You can only do the rear main seal right with the transmission off, so you'd be out of your mind to not do it being you are already in this deep.
Not sure what it takes to do the front seal on the 5-speed, but if easy, do that too.
While you have everything apart, research about what area gets corrosion by the sensor and won't let the car start and make sure that's nice and bare metal again. Nekkid!
I still need those perfect body parts and interior parts, so if you throw in the towel, Right Here Dude!
But also do a search in the 4th Gen forum area because there's LOTS of buried info.
You can only do the rear main seal right with the transmission off, so you'd be out of your mind to not do it being you are already in this deep.
Not sure what it takes to do the front seal on the 5-speed, but if easy, do that too.
While you have everything apart, research about what area gets corrosion by the sensor and won't let the car start and make sure that's nice and bare metal again. Nekkid!
I still need those perfect body parts and interior parts, so if you throw in the towel, Right Here Dude!
If my wife has it her way this thing will end up with a bow on your front lawn this Christmas :P lol. I'm just trying to prevent that...
And yes, those interior parts are just as good as you imagine 
09-22-2017, 08:36 PM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Long Island
Posts: 1,564
That is a *great* link! Thank you! I don't know why Google didn't return that. I must be asking the wrong questions...
If my wife has it her way this thing will end up with a bow on your front lawn this Christmas :P lol. I'm just trying to prevent that... And yes, those interior parts are just as good as you imagine
If my wife has it her way this thing will end up with a bow on your front lawn this Christmas :P lol. I'm just trying to prevent that...
And yes, those interior parts are just as good as you imagine I MUST reciprocate! Has she been leaving any hints for what she wants for Christmas? LOL
Good luck with the clutch and other side things to be done along with it.
09-24-2017, 07:15 AM
#5
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: AL
Posts: 363
Ok... Looking for feedback before I bite the bullet and buy this stuff:
Clutch kit
-One review complains about the throwout bearing. Recommendations on a better one?
Flywheel
Brute 502732
-Cheaper on RockAuto
-Weight 11.98 lbs (same as stock?)
-Should I just turn the one that's in there? Clutch was done 90k miles ago, so I have no idea if the OEM flywheel is still in there.
-Turning it will slow down the install process & a friend is helping. Would prefer a new one.
Ring Gear
Help! I can't seem to find one! I'll live with the old one if I have to. No idea what shape it's in
Engine Rear Crank Seal
Need part numbers..
-Does the "upper oil pan" need to be removed?
Transmission Front input seal
Need part numbers...
Transmission Transaxle Output Oil Seals
-Passenger side will need to be swapped
Clutch kit
-One review complains about the throwout bearing. Recommendations on a better one?
Flywheel
Brute 502732
-Cheaper on RockAuto
-Weight 11.98 lbs (same as stock?)
-Should I just turn the one that's in there? Clutch was done 90k miles ago, so I have no idea if the OEM flywheel is still in there.
-Turning it will slow down the install process & a friend is helping. Would prefer a new one.
Ring Gear
Help! I can't seem to find one! I'll live with the old one if I have to. No idea what shape it's in
Engine Rear Crank Seal
Need part numbers..
-Does the "upper oil pan" need to be removed?
Transmission Front input seal
Need part numbers...
Transmission Transaxle Output Oil Seals
- 710124 = right side (passenger) seal
- 710118 = left side (driver) seal
-Passenger side will need to be swapped
Last edited by Shrout1; 09-24-2017 at 07:27 AM.
09-24-2017, 09:53 AM
#6
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central AR
Posts: 3,041
Some notes below from my recent experience.
Clutch kit
-One review complains about the throwout bearing. Recommendations on a better one?
I looked at every clutch kit in town from sellers like Advance, O'Reilly, and NAPA. Different OEM equivalent brands. In all cases the throw out bearings just didn't feel as smooth as the OEM bearing that i had just removed. The had a slightly gritty feel. I worried that the gritty feel would turn into a singing throw out bearing at some point down the road. However, I had a Perfection kit from Advance Auto installed on the 99 model 3 years earlier and haven't experienced an issue. So I was already partial to a perfection clutch. The Exedy clutch in the picture looks like the Perfection clutch that I bought from Advance for $122.99. So you have good price from Amazon for that clutch.
Since I could not find happiness with the Clutch Kit throw out bearings, on one visit to a parts store I asked to see a National Brand throw out bearing. Voila! I found the bearing I wanted. The bearing was as smooth as butter. So basically I trashed the kit bearing and installed a new National Part No 614049.
I sent the flywheel to a local NAPA machine shop that did a great job on resurfacing the old flywheel. I can see how you will not want to wait for a flywheel to be machined.
Flywheel
Brute 502732
-Cheaper on RockAuto
-Weight 11.98 lbs (same as stock?)
-Should I just turn the one that's in there? Clutch was done 90k miles ago, so I have no idea if the OEM flywheel is still in there.
-Turning it will slow down the install process & a friend is helping. Would prefer a new one.
Ring Gear
Help! I can't seem to find one! I'll live with the old one if I have to. No idea what shape it's in
Everything you need should be in the clutch kit outside of seals.
Engine Rear Crank Seal
Need part numbers..
-Does the "upper oil pan" need to be removed?
I used FelproRear Main Seal Set
Part No BS 40631
IIRC, I read a thread about someone that tried to replace the RMS without lowering the upper oil pan. I didn't get a good feeling about that. When I got into it I saw how I really needed to remove the upper oil pan to get the new half-moon gaskets to seal properly. The Felpro kit comes with two tubes of Permatex black for the rubber part of the seal. I used Permatex gray for the upper oil pan. I use grey on aluminum/steel (high torque) surfaces around the UOP and LOP and black on rubber to metal (low torque) surfaces like half moons where maximum oil resistance is required.
It seems like half moons came with the FelPro RMS kit. I had bought a set of Felpro Oil Pan Gasket Set Part No OS 30696 thinking I needed it and wound up with an extra half moon.
I didn't replace the transmission shaft seal. I probably should have. It looked like more that we were planning to tackle at the time.
There is a seal for the shift linkage that I would like to replace at some point in the future. The one on the 99 model has a small leak. To replace that seal, I understand you need to take the transmission apart. I may send the transmission out for that operation when the time comes.
Clutch kit
-One review complains about the throwout bearing. Recommendations on a better one?
I looked at every clutch kit in town from sellers like Advance, O'Reilly, and NAPA. Different OEM equivalent brands. In all cases the throw out bearings just didn't feel as smooth as the OEM bearing that i had just removed. The had a slightly gritty feel. I worried that the gritty feel would turn into a singing throw out bearing at some point down the road. However, I had a Perfection kit from Advance Auto installed on the 99 model 3 years earlier and haven't experienced an issue. So I was already partial to a perfection clutch. The Exedy clutch in the picture looks like the Perfection clutch that I bought from Advance for $122.99. So you have good price from Amazon for that clutch.
Since I could not find happiness with the Clutch Kit throw out bearings, on one visit to a parts store I asked to see a National Brand throw out bearing. Voila! I found the bearing I wanted. The bearing was as smooth as butter. So basically I trashed the kit bearing and installed a new National Part No 614049.
I sent the flywheel to a local NAPA machine shop that did a great job on resurfacing the old flywheel. I can see how you will not want to wait for a flywheel to be machined.
Flywheel
Brute 502732
-Cheaper on RockAuto
-Weight 11.98 lbs (same as stock?)
-Should I just turn the one that's in there? Clutch was done 90k miles ago, so I have no idea if the OEM flywheel is still in there.
-Turning it will slow down the install process & a friend is helping. Would prefer a new one.
Ring Gear
Help! I can't seem to find one! I'll live with the old one if I have to. No idea what shape it's in
Everything you need should be in the clutch kit outside of seals.
Engine Rear Crank Seal
Need part numbers..
-Does the "upper oil pan" need to be removed?
I used FelproRear Main Seal Set
Part No BS 40631
IIRC, I read a thread about someone that tried to replace the RMS without lowering the upper oil pan. I didn't get a good feeling about that. When I got into it I saw how I really needed to remove the upper oil pan to get the new half-moon gaskets to seal properly. The Felpro kit comes with two tubes of Permatex black for the rubber part of the seal. I used Permatex gray for the upper oil pan. I use grey on aluminum/steel (high torque) surfaces around the UOP and LOP and black on rubber to metal (low torque) surfaces like half moons where maximum oil resistance is required.
It seems like half moons came with the FelPro RMS kit. I had bought a set of Felpro Oil Pan Gasket Set Part No OS 30696 thinking I needed it and wound up with an extra half moon.
I didn't replace the transmission shaft seal. I probably should have. It looked like more that we were planning to tackle at the time.
There is a seal for the shift linkage that I would like to replace at some point in the future. The one on the 99 model has a small leak. To replace that seal, I understand you need to take the transmission apart. I may send the transmission out for that operation when the time comes.
09-24-2017, 07:32 PM
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: AL
Posts: 363
Thank you thank you! I will most definitely get the parts you recommend. I've looked at your thread a bit on the clutch replacement you did.
Is it worth replacing the hydraulic line from the master to slave cylinder while I have it apart? Or is that something that can be done just as easily later?
More questions to come for sure....
Is it worth replacing the hydraulic line from the master to slave cylinder while I have it apart? Or is that something that can be done just as easily later?
More questions to come for sure....
09-24-2017, 08:28 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 2,979
The clutch line can be replaced now, or at any time in the future.
Bleeding the clutch hydraulic system which Nissan cursed us with is a real pita.
Spend the money it takes to buy the one-piece hydraulic line as part of this project. It makes bleeding the clutch line as easy as bleeding a brake line.
Been there, done that.
Bleeding the clutch hydraulic system which Nissan cursed us with is a real pita.
Spend the money it takes to buy the one-piece hydraulic line as part of this project. It makes bleeding the clutch line as easy as bleeding a brake line.
Been there, done that.
09-25-2017, 07:01 AM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central AR
Posts: 3,041
The clutch line can be replaced now, or at any time in the future.
Bleeding the clutch hydraulic system which Nissan cursed us with is a real pita.
Spend the money it takes to buy the one-piece hydraulic line as part of this project. It makes bleeding the clutch line as easy as bleeding a brake line.
Been there, done that.
Bleeding the clutch hydraulic system which Nissan cursed us with is a real pita.
Spend the money it takes to buy the one-piece hydraulic line as part of this project. It makes bleeding the clutch line as easy as bleeding a brake line.
Been there, done that.
09-25-2017, 08:49 AM
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: AL
Posts: 363
Some notes below from my recent experience.
Clutch kit
Exedy 06044 OEM replacement
Flywheel
Brute 502732
Ring Gear
Help! I can't seem to find one! I'll live with the old one if I have to. No idea what shape it's in
Everything you need should be in the clutch kit outside of seals.
Clutch kit
Exedy 06044 OEM replacement
Flywheel
Brute 502732
Ring Gear
Help! I can't seem to find one! I'll live with the old one if I have to. No idea what shape it's in
Everything you need should be in the clutch kit outside of seals.
Last edited by Shrout1; 09-25-2017 at 08:52 AM.
09-25-2017, 12:18 PM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central AR
Posts: 3,041
09-25-2017, 12:27 PM
#12
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: AL
Posts: 363
I don't have problems starting right now, but if I'm in this deep I think it makes sense to replace it.
09-25-2017, 05:24 PM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central AR
Posts: 3,041
My apologies. I was off into another part. If you are going to replace the flywheel, then I would look into a performance model. No experience here but I've read about a Fidanza
09-26-2017, 06:59 AM
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: AL
Posts: 363
The Fidanza flywheels look nice and all, but I hate to pay $300 plus when all I really want is OEM equivalent performance. If there even was a ring gear for my car out there I'd bet it wouldn't cost more than $60-$80 by itself.