hooloovoo

So I gave up on the weird noise as I couldn't figure out where the heck it was coming from, and ended up taking it to a shop because there have been other weird noises going on. In addition to a bad wheel bearing I'm having them fix, they said the rattling sound by the drive belt was due to some windings in the alternator coming loose and said I'd need a new alternator pretty soon. They wanted about $400 to do that and it's usually an easy job so I figured I'd DIY it, but had them go ahead and do the wheel bearing because I have no clue how to do that.

Anyway so now I need an alternator. Lots of cheap options on rockauto, any suggestions on brand or rebuild? Rockauto has 'new' ones for like $100, TYC and Power Select. Then remanufactured ones going from $80 to $217. Autozone has a duralast remanufactured for $165 or a duralast gold new for $188 with a $20 gift card rebate. Any option better than others? And from reading it seems like this is a pretty easy job, can anyone confirm that?

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

It's absolutely NOT difficult. However, it is a little time consuming as the AC compressor needs to be unbolted and displaced to make room.

I'm currently running the Duralast reman'd unit. It's been installed for about 2.5 yrs. with no issues. It includes a LLT, which is a must for me.

Based on the fact that you can get this alternator for $160 + 1/2 a day's worth of under-car education, $400 = rape IMO.

hooloovoo

Yeah it's much cheaper, I don't think their price is that crazy though. i've been there before and they're really honest folks, but they tend to price things out with new OEM parts. Which is great if you have a nice not too old car but not worth it on a 20 year old maxima. They're usually happy to try to find a reman unit or let me supply my own but I think since an alternator is usually pretty easy it's a good learning experience for my boy.

maximaxi

For reman items with a core charge, I like to buy it from a store, or at least their online sites (where you can buy online and return to the store)

Otherwise, get the Hitachi from Rock Auto

hooloovoo

The hitachi refurb is like $230 though. I do think it's a bit of a pain to deal with the core through mail too so I'll probably just go to autozone. Given the reman one is $165 and the new one is $188 with a $20 rebate I figure I'll get the new one, it's also a 125 amp vs 110 amp on the reman one.

JvG

Generally AZ rebuilt starters and alternators for our car have bad reputations.

Do some research before buying.

hooloovoo

I'm talking about a new one, not a refurb, are the new ones bad too? $188 for a new duralast gold seems like a pretty good deal... Outside of a new OEM one the next best bet seems like the ACDELCO remanufactured unit from rockauto which says it's manufactured by hitachi, for $122.

KP11520

I bought this new Bosch for my 99 SE. They say it doesn't fit in a 97 thru 99, but it does. It is spec'd for a 95 and 96. But it goes right in a 97 thru 99 as well. It just puts out 125 amps rather than 110.

Mine's been in almost a year with no problems.

JvG

The rebuilt ones havery issues. Get a new one.
So that you won't have to do this over again anytime soon.

Michael Guppy

Best place to buy replacement body panels/parts? Looking for 2011 (trunklid, rear bumper) ocean grey SV. Thanks

reallywildstuff

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...new-one-2.html

hooloovoo

Still leaning towards the autozone new unit because lifetime warranty and easy to exchange if it conks out...

But has anyone heard of this Quality-Built brand: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...KIKX0DER&psc=1

$114 for a claimed new unit. Normally I probably wouldn't pay much attention but it's got quite a few reviews (for a part like this) with an average of 4 out of 5 stars which seems decentish...

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

I have no idea if that alternator is a quality item or not. There was an epidemic of made in China alternators being no better than a poorly rebuilt one, but that doesn't mean this one is.

I watched the video on Amazon's web page that you linked and I had to laugh. Whoever wrote the script for that does not have very much knowledge of cars. Lots of half truths and falsehoods in it.

Zerodrag

iTrader: (1)

The dealer replacement unit I recently got for mine is a remanufactured unit, according to my mechanic. From what I recall, he mentioned the dealer told him they have no new units. I may have misinterpreted his explanation to me, but that's what I recall at least.

hooloovoo

Yeah I would imagine after 19 years the 'OEM' options are either all rebuilt or are being made by random 3rd party companies in china and probably have no relation to the actual OEM alternator, which is why I don't really want to shell out $325 for one...

lux97Max

iTrader: (24)

I have mulpitle oem reman starters and alternators from nissan thus used but all tested and good. If interested ill be making a thread soon about these.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Just order one from Rock Auto and be done....Or take a chance on a salvage yard unit...Just have it tested at a local auto parts store....

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Awesome advice!

hooloovoo

Well yeah, problem is rock auto has like 9 different ones... And having to mail the core back in is a pain.

maximaxi

one more thing about returning the used core to Rock Auto: they let you use their shipping discount for their return shipping

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

got mine at napa, 125w lifetime warranty and 225.00 parts and labor installed.

vqmaxman

I have a brand new alternator in with a new idler pulley. I have a new belt to go along with it. The tension on the belt is tight as it should be. I have a screeching loud sound coming from the alternator and the pulley. I have loosened it to free up the noise. The problen still there. I am smelling burning rubber smell. I have tighten the belt tight so no smell or sound would come but that doesn't work. The sound is unbearable. I have a feeling the alternator bearing and pulley are the culprit.

KP11520

Does it get worse when you're defroster is on? (AC Compressor)

vqmaxman

Yes, it gets worse when the a/c compressor comes on. The a/c compressor is also new. ��
The car can run quiet at times untill i have my fimgers on the window regulator going up or down the screeching starts. The screeching stops if i let off of the window regulators. If I give it gas or i rev it the car does the noise and the start up. I say it's the pulley and the alternator bearing.

CS_AR

Burning rubber smell. Check the rubber damper on the crankshaft pulley to see if it is worn out. If the damper breaks up, the pulley will spin on the crankshaft part. When the damper separates, the pulley usually starts rubbing against the power steering belt.

Here's a picture of an old pulley that separated compared to a new pulley.

I started replacing pulleys as preventative maintenance with the 98 model. The first 4th gen's pulley separated around 150,000 miles. The I30 separated at over 200,000 miles. The damper is just another rubber wear item that deteriorates with age.

I buy my pulleys from an eBay seller named Tom's Auto for $27.99. So far no problems. So at that price, I just don't mess with an old crank pulley.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-HARMONI...8AAOSwAYtWJqqo

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

i have done 2 ud pulleys in the last 5 years, the rubber on the aftermarket doesn't last and wears out after only a year or more. they're usually around $150.00 a shot as well. i think one was a cardone, forget what the other was.

vqmaxman

I have looked at all the pulleys and the pulleys, if they are bad they should viberate and wobble visibly with lot's of noise. I do smell the rubber belt smell. I will though look into the little rubber that you have mentioned. Thanks

vqmaxman

The crankshaft pulley has the crankshaft seal that would be the rubber that would deterate with oil leak at the shaft. This would be the only rubber there that would do anything to seal off oil leaks.

CS_AR

The damper rubber is the outer ring that you can see on the left pulley on the picture.

It separates over time and allows the pulley to spin.

That is IF you have a bad pulley damper that is separating.

vqmaxman

So from the pic what i can see the one on the right has the damper with the pulley and the one on the left has no damper but just the crank pulley. I don't see mine separate yet thank god.

vqmaxman

I hear that some people say depending on how bad the separation is that you can spin it with your hands.

CS_AR

Yep.. That happened on the first one that failed.

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

i had a coolant leak that sprayed all over that side of the engine, end result was it wicked the main compressor belt meaning it got hard as a rock and killed the rubber on the ud pulley and i had to do another idler pulley from the belt moving sideways on the ud pulley.

vqmaxman

I see that my new pulley is taking a beating. The pulley was showing signs of scuff marks on the surface going towards the fenderwall side. I will change the bracket that is an original oem on the car. I am sure that nissan redesigned that bracket as they did with the pulley. It could be if the bracket is worn out causing all of this drama.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Get the Hitachi unit and be done...I've never had to return a core....

vqmaxman

Is the Hitachi supposed to be the nissan oem or Nissan aftermarket because Nissan is selling there own oem as Nissan on it.

vqmaxman

I have been chasing this squealing issue for over a month and i have a new belt,pulley,alternator,compressor,pulley bracket just got it today. The new redesigned bracket helped with the noise and the bracket is about an 1in in a half short than the original and the pulley slot is also perfect so you can't over tighten.this now let me to pin pointed the problem to the faulty A/c compressor. The hand going on the window regulator switches with the screeching has minimized and almost diminished. The compressor jams up and sounds very screeching bad i have figured the damn compressor gets loaded and charged up to jam or screech. I have the pics for the bracket comparisons.https://drive.google.com/file/d/1A2G...w?usp=drivesdk https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zgY...w?usp=drivesdk

vqmaxman

Hello fam, I wanna thank you all for the help and input for my squealing problem. I have figured the problem out, it was the alternator that was causing all the squealing . I have replaced the alternator with the new one and the squealing went away. I have a new pulley bracket to go along with the alternator. The old bracket looked bent compared to the new one. Once again thanks to all of you and your inquiries.