Replacing Passenger CV Axle
 

My passenger ball joint is stuck in the knuckle while trying to replace the control arm, and my passenger CV axle outer boot is torn so I'm going to remove it to be able to pound out the ball joint and also replace the half shaft. Never done an axle how much fluid will I lose? Any tips on the job itself? Ive borrowed an impact for the job need to find out the size of the axle nut it might be aftermarket. I also ordered a new oem seal since according to the last owner he didn't replace the seal is this easy to install? I've heard there are tools to place it/remove it but it sounds like some have done it by hand

Depending on the angle the car is on and type of trans, you may lose no fluid or less than a quart. I did an auto with no loss. I did a 5 speed and lost a decent amount.

Stock nut is 36mm. Sometimes aftermarket is 32mm.

You can get a bit of pipe the diameter of the seal to install it.

I hate the lower ball joint. If you are not saving it cut it with a reciprocating saw.

Its 5spd ABS non lsd I'll try to save my brand new mtf because I don't wanna order more after just replacing it. I had to do both control arms and in both cases had to cut off the nut for the ball joint, I was able to hit the control arm to dislodge the driver's side but the passenger side im gonna need to remove the axle to get right on the ball joint

When I did my new CV Axle, with the driver's side on the tire on the ground and the passenger's side jack standed up high enough to get under the car, nothing leaked out of my AT.

As far as getting the ball joint out of the knuckle goes, the axle will pull out of the bearings and can stay in the transmission and bang on the steering knuckle real hard with a hammer on the metal around the ball joint. A little coaxing and a lot of banging usually gets them apart.

Good luck!

BTW, several of us have used SurTrack CV Axles with success. I did both sides and the fit was like the OEMs I removed.

Proper tools are always a good bet as they're safer and make things a lot easier ...

Ball Joint Separator, about $25.00:
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/maxima....9bdcfa21d7.jpg

Old School Pickle Fork, about $12.00:
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/maxima....32d26a3c45.jpg

Ball Joint Press, $45.00-$50.00:
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/maxima....5e7b3fc03d.jpg

May be it's different with the 5 speed but the auto trans w/ABS non-LSD you don't need to remove the ball joint to pull the axle. Just trying to save you some work if possible.

To do an axle job on a auto or manual you don't need to remove the ball joint. The pass axle has a d-shaped clamp or bracket with 3 bolts under the car that helps hold the axle in place. I don't remember if the bolts were a 10mm 12mm, 14mm.

Im removing the ball joint to replace the control arm, i actually sawed off the ball joint between the knuckle and control arm for working space. Waiting on oem axle seal in the mail

Hopefully, you bought Moog Problem Solver LCAs before they were discontinued!

I did get one for the driver's side but Rock Auto wasn't carrying any for the passenger so I ended up going with import direct I think was the brand from oreillys and for the passenger axle I got a master pro from them as well, both with lifetime warranties

Here's a high-tech tool for installing passenger side seals that I bought at Lowes. I have a coupling on each end so the pipe will not become damaged during use. I use a piece of pipe that is long enough to extend out to the knuckle area. Then while I watch the seal move into place, I get a helper to tap on the end of the pipe at clock position like 12, 6, 3, 9,, whatever it needs to seat the seal. I think I've used this pipe on 6 or more seal replacements. Note the driver side uses a different sized seal. Just take the seal to a place like Lowes or Home Depot and find a coupling or piece of pipe to match.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...psyz4iddte.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...psqdzfuun4.jpg

I got the brakes off this car how do I stop the axle from turning to get the axle nut off

Edit: nvm putting the caliper back on and sticking a screwdriver in between the rotor seems like the move. But I completely forgot I had the pads off and now I'll have to compress all of the calipers completely back to put on the pads :( Been so long since I even took those brakes off that's what I get for letting it sit so long didn't even cross my mind

I put the lug nuts back on lug bolts. I don't have them on super tight, just enough to protect the bolt threads for the next step.

Then I use a 36" harbor freight breaker bar as a PAWL between two of the bolts and then let it rest it on the ground. Then I rotate the wheel slightly so the bar makes contact with the ground and rests against the nut's V area and the rotor to lock the wheel into place.

It works using the parking PAWL concept for an automatic transmission.

Once the wheel is secure, I use a heavy 1/2 drive ratchet with a pipe extension to break the axle nut loose.

Here's my old axle I have repurposed into a talking puppet, it feels good to tackle something new on a car and feel more confident working on your car in the future. Thank God I had an impact for this I felt like I was bending my coilover trying to put enough behind the wrench. CS_AR I admire and thank you for your tutorial worthy advice you're always giving.

And I will note I did lose a pretty decent amount of liquid gold amsoil fluid during this. Glad it will be another CPL days til I was gonna drive anyways I was too excited to get the axle out after crawling out from getring the carrier bearing bolts undone and missed a decent amount of fluid. This will be the first time this 3.5 swap has ridden smooth (fingers crossed) since reviving it after sitting for 2years. Thank you everyone for the help all the reading made me feel much more confident about doing this

Basically what I did, but with black iron pipe.

I use an electric Impact Gun. Perfect for when you don't have the space for a compressor and everything else needed for air. No need to do anything with the wheel back on or brakes.

One of the best investments I made for repairing my own vehicles.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-8-Am...Wrench/3307992

If you're only needing/wanting to operate an impact wrench and other "burst" type air tools, this is really all you need.

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-gall...MzE0MSJ9%0D%0A

With the compressor and this perfectly adequate impact wrench you're looking at a total of about $80.00 + tax.

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-ei...nch-93296.html

Unfortunately that compressor puts out 15% of what that gun needs @ 90 psi to bang long enough to get your lugs off. That'd be a waste of money. If you're gonna go air, buy enough to cover much of what you will need over the course of repairing your car. Compressor puts out 0.6 CFM, Gun needs 4.0 CFM @ 90 psi respectively.

That Kobalt electric has 350 ft lbs of torque and has yet to fail breaking any nut. Can't beat the ease and convenience and zero footprint!

I know..... I'm an overkill kinda PITA! :D:p:D