97maxy

I have a '97 Maxima v6 with automatic trans.

My chk engine light came on, I checked and found it had a P0-100 code. This seems to be indicating the MAF.

I searched around and found a video where he goes through a few checks which I'll follow.





1. Is the video correct and would you add anything ?

2. Should I try cleaning the MAF even if I do get good readings before replacing it ?

3. I purchased CRC MAF cleaner, which also came with a throttle cleaner. Should I clean the throttle as well ? I did some reading on that and it seems it could be a problem if not done correctly. Is it necessary in this case or should I avoid it ?


I'll just add the engine is rough/bucks when accelerating from a stop. Also my RMP guage swings all over the place though it's done this before the problem started. Sometimes it will give a true reading most of the time it won't. Not sure if this is relevant ? Do I need to correct this as well ?


Thanks...

maximaxi

Get a new MAF

Bosch 63128 is the actual OE MAF

There is also Standard MAS0145 that is the actual OE sensor just the sensor itself without the housing.

93SCMax

iTrader: (3)

1) Video is good and can help with troubleshooting the MAF.
2) Cleaning never hurts, but if it's rough and bucking, it's most likely the MAF or the wires connecting into the MAF.
3) Bypass the throttle cleaning right now. Do that after your code is cleared and you have smooth acceleration.

The bouncing tachometer is your speedo cluster. It's actually the speedometer that needs replacing. It sends the signal and the tach reacts. Lots of threads on broken solder joints on the speedo cluster that address this.

Back to your MAF issue, 9 times out of 10, the soldering in the MAF has broken or has intermittent contact. It could also be the plug in wiring going into the MAF. Check the wiring 1st.
I've had this issue and bought a used MAF from the junkyard (due to lower cost vs new). Make sure you get the same PN (ie. other Nissans with the 3.0 l engine may also use this PN).

Good luck!

97maxy

Thank you for your advice and help guys!

I removed and cleaned the MAF. Drove for approx 30 miles with no problems (ran good ) then the chk eng light came on and started to stall/buck. Oh well, it was worth a shot.

I picked up a replacement, cleared the codes and installed the new MAF. So far drove approx 20 miles with no problems. Fingers crossed, we'll see !

Rit

iTrader: (3)

How much did you pay for the MAF, and where did you get it ? (just collecting data !)