caseymaxima

iTrader: (1)

Hi everyone,
I need some help with my 1996 4th gen. At this point my car is in rough shape, with a good amount of rust. My family keeps yelling at me to get rid of it......I just can't do it. I know my car has no value and any replacement parts would exceed the value of my car.....but I don't care and I want my car fixed!
So without further ado, here are my issues: For the past few months my car had a slight miss or stumble when first started. However the stumble went away as soon as you started driving or revved or if you let it idle a bit it would go away. On the road the car was perfectly fine so I didn't do anything about the issue except replace the spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter, and PCV valve to no avail; I then just lived with it.
Fast forward to now, my car basically will not start. I can get the car to start if I feather and play with the gas pedal with a lot of cranking of the engine. Once it starts it seems to run fine and is totally drive able. If I don't touch the gas pedal, the car will not start.
I checked the CEL codes and I had a code for a camshaft position sensor, so I replaced the CPS, it also has not helped. I was speaking with a friend who insists that it is a fuel related problem, such as a bad fuel pump. If the fuel pump was bad, I assume that the car would not run at all, correct?
Any other ideas as to what I can check or look at? I need to repair the car myself because the finance manager (the wife) will have a fit if I take it to a shop.


Thank you,
Zack

Zerodrag

iTrader: (1)

Maybe the temp sensor? You already ruled out the cam position sensor by replacing it.

bvb_09

Last time it happened to me, my engine air filter was really dirty.
Try to check the air flow - changing the filter, and cleaning MAF/Throttle body.

JvG

Seems that you have an idle issue. Specifically an aor flow at idle issue. Touching the gas pedal seend to help. Because there might be some deposit on the throttle valve.

I suggest that you purchase some CRC brand throttle body cleaner. Then get a paper towel.

Clean both sides , front and back, of the throttle. Also the throttle body as far as you can reach.

if the problem persists, the IACV or intake air control valve probably needs cleaning out as well. It's job is to provide air to allow the engine to idle when the throttle is shut . You will need to buy a gasket for that. I use CRC carburetor spray to clean it internally. There are some valves in there which unscrew with a wrench if I recall. I might recall I check ball in there too. It's been about five years since I did mine.

Specific repair instructions are on this forum.
You can find those by using the Search feature.

caseymaxima

iTrader: (1)

More info......
This morning my car was VERY had to start as usual, but again once it actually started it ran fine. It also restarts much better after it has been running for a while. It seems that when it cools down I have major issues getting it restarted. I stopped at Walmart and picked up throttle body cleaner, I will try that in a little while and report back.


Thank you everyone!

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

That sounds like a water temp sensor issue! Test the sensor resistance first, make sure you have 5 volts reference volts at one of the wires...You make also have to pin to pin the return wire, I don't know the ecu pin #, but you can look at a schematic...If you don't find a resistance issue with the water temp sensor, and you find 5v reference there! I would either do a new sensor (NoN AZ crap) or test for one in the salvage yard and grab 2 or 3 of them for test purposes! Another situation could be TPS...How's does the car shift when tipped slightly into the throttle? Is this an A/T or M/T car?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The ECTS (temperature sensor) is a good possibility. When the engine is cold, pull the wire plug off the sensor and measure the resistance. At 70º F, the resistance should be between 2.1K & 2.9K ohms. The resistance goes up as it gets colder and goes down ad it gets hotter. at 100º F, the resistance would be approx 1K ohm.

caseymaxima

iTrader: (1)

Second update of the day.....
I checked the air filter, and it is perfectly clean. Then I moved to cleaning the TB. I pulled the accordion hose off the TB the TB was clean with no carbon build up. The only thing that I noticed was that the accordion hose between the TB and air box is cracked/split at the first fold of the accordion. I don't think that would make a big difference, but I put some gorilla tape on the split just in case.
My car is an A/T and it shifts perfectly fine, no issues there at all.
I pulled the CEL codes again, and now the cam position sensor code is gone. However I still have the same three codes I always have: PO1445(EVAP), PO136(O2 Sensor- again been on forever and the sensor has been replaced twice already), and PO600(trans code-it has been on for at least four or more years).

JvG

That crack has a lother to do with your seating issue. It leaks unmetered air which the ecu does not know about. This would create a very lean air fuel ratio. It would affect idle for sure.

It would not make much of a difference at higher revs.

JvG

Your oxy sensor code might go away if you in tall a new fuse. Worked for me.

you need to clean the egr system. Especially the tube which looks like a door hsndle. It gets filled with carbon.that means no flow in the egr sytem, and the code.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

How's your Gas mileage? This is why I'm asking! If you do have a defective temp sensor that mean your car never will come out of "Open Loop" operation! That mean enriched air/fuel ratio all the time using an excessive fuel consumption...Also meaning that the O2 sensor will never is used for input back to the ECU. If the temp sensor is working right it signals the ECU to switch to "Closed Loop" operation in which the O2 sensor's input is a major player is engine operation!

CS_AR

When it runs do you get any white exhaust like this video?

caseymaxima

iTrader: (1)

No white smoke at all. When the car finally starts, it runs great with no abnormal smoke, or sounds.
With respect to the "temp sensor", does anyone know what the official name of that sensor is? I can't seem to find it on Rockauto. It's not the same sensor that registers the temp on the dash right?

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

They are referring to the ECTS or engine coolant temperature sensor.

KP11520

Years ago, my 99 was getting harder to start and there were no codes. And then it wouldn't start. I couldn't figure out what was doing this. Had it towed to a guy in the next town over and he previously had a 4th Gen he supercharged and installed a 5th gen MT. He was more aware of 4th Gen problems than most.



He found that a bunch of corrosion built up between the engine and transmission and that prevented a sensor from reading when starting.


He had to pull the transmission and wire wheel the area on both sides and it has started first crack since. And mine is not a rust bucket, but has lived in NY since new and dealt with salt.


If all else fails, just know that there is also this looming in the background.

Zerodrag

iTrader: (1)

Hard starts after a car has been sitting for a period of time can also be the result of a bad/leaky fuel pressure regulator. There's a way to test that which it's pretty easy via the vacuum line, i believe.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Rock auto has it....
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...+/+sensor,4748

komik

Maybe a new one would help with my occasional cold start troubles.

I just recently replaced this old crusty one on a '94 Acura Legend because it was making the temp gauge read full cold all the time.

Zerodrag

iTrader: (1)

Normally, the gauge sensor is separate from the one to the ECU. At least on my other cars it is.

caseymaxima

iTrader: (1)

More updates......
I have been busy lately so I have not had much time to play with the Maxima, however I looked at it today with my neighbor (35 year GM dealer mechanic). As I stated earlier, the only way to get it started is by basically flooring the gas pedal and feathering the pedal until it starts. Once it starts, it runs perfectly fine with plenty of power.
My neighbor checked the fuel pressure regulator and he said that is fine, and he believes the fuel pump is fine because the car runs perfectly fine once it actually starts. He is firmly believes that it without question fuel related. He thinks that I may have an issue with the relay or something along those lines. He said that when you turn the key into the on position, the pump "should" pressurize the injectors to the prime the engine to start. He does not think that the that is happening in my car, therefore it is hard to start but runs great once started. When the key is in the on position, should I hear pump pressurize the system briefly? If so, I don't hear anything in my car. On Rockauto they list two different relays related to the fuel system (the actual relay is the same) 1. Fuel Pump/Circuit Opening Relay and 2. Fuel Injection Relay. I assume that #1 could be an issue? Does any of this make sense?

Zerodrag

iTrader: (1)

Maybe it has to do with the cold start injector (or sensor/relay that controls it)? I am not really familiar with it on the Maxima, but on one of my other cars it is disconnected and takes a lot of cranking to get it to start when it has been sitting for long periods of time.

CS_AR

I call this one leaking injector o-rings. When the car sits the pressurized fuel leaks down into the cylinders and produces a flooding condition. Holding the accelerator to the floor helps to ease the flooding condition. Running with leaking injectors will result in your cats being cooked. One thing leads to another.

Injector pictures from my 99 model injectors from 4 years ago.

JvG

I agree with what CS-AR just said.

your car is losing fuel pressure through a leaking injector . This results in flooding. Flooring the gas pedal clears the flooding.

and yes, the leak will cook your cat convertor