99 Maxima alternator help
08-22-2018, 03:10 AM
#1
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99 Maxima alternator help
hello got a 99 se and had my alternator replaced 4 years ago and thanks to a leaking valve cover had taken its role .. so I been reading that you need to remove the ac unit to get my room to alternator and remove it from the bottom .. so the alternator top bolt is 12m and bottom 14m .. ok on the ac unit is 4 14 m bolts and Thur is a side bracket two bolts 14 m just loose them up but don’t take them out ? And are all the bolts are six point right .. just was wondering are there any tips on doing this ? It’s my first time so I’m going to do it myself since car is at the house .. I was looking at a dB electric alternator.. thanks for anybody help that has done this !
08-22-2018, 04:33 AM
#2
You do NOT need to remove the AC compressor.
Simply unbolt the compressor and move it aside ... no hoses need to be removed from the compressor.
Bent segments of wire coat hanger, tie wire or zip-ties work well to keep the compressor out of the way but secured while you're doing the alternator work.
Simply unbolt the compressor and move it aside ... no hoses need to be removed from the compressor.
Bent segments of wire coat hanger, tie wire or zip-ties work well to keep the compressor out of the way but secured while you're doing the alternator work.
08-22-2018, 08:45 AM
#3
^Exactly. 
Not the most fun task, but definitely doable.
TIP: Bring your old alternator to the store and make sure the ears are the same distance apart and that the holes in the ears are the right size too. I've been burned in the past with these issues. Making the ear bolt holes bigger is easy enough, but you can't make the ears further apart if incorrect.
Not the most fun task, but definitely doable.
TIP: Bring your old alternator to the store and make sure the ears are the same distance apart and that the holes in the ears are the right size too. I've been burned in the past with these issues. Making the ear bolt holes bigger is easy enough, but you can't make the ears further apart if incorrect.
08-22-2018, 11:14 AM
#4
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You do NOT need to remove the AC compressor.
Simply unbolt the compressor and move it aside ... no hoses need to be removed from the compressor.
Bent segments of wire coat hanger, tie wire or zip-ties work well to keep the compressor out of the way but secured while you're doing the alternator work.
Simply unbolt the compressor and move it aside ... no hoses need to be removed from the compressor.
Bent segments of wire coat hanger, tie wire or zip-ties work well to keep the compressor out of the way but secured while you're doing the alternator work.
Last edited by nissan99; 08-22-2018 at 12:30 PM.
08-22-2018, 12:10 PM
#5
Then move/turn the AC compressor out of the way (this is a relative term on accounta you can't really get it "out of the way").
Use whatever is convenient to secure/hang the compressor but so as not to put undue stress on the AC hoses.
Once the alternator is free from its mount(s) you might have to manipulate the AC compressor to get the alternator out, but it will come out and the new one will go in.
08-22-2018, 12:11 PM
#6
Take out and remove the four bolts...then swing compressor out of the way. Just loosening the bolts won't accomplish squat.
08-25-2018, 02:49 PM
#8
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Well got done to day with little help .. had one little problem with that nut and tab on the end of 14 mn bolt on the bottom of the alternator it got in the way of tensioner so we figure it out .. now when this was going on I had my meter testing the voltage on the old alternator and was getting hot so that’s when I shut the car off .. now with new the alternator in we tested the voltage and it was running at 12.40 with car started which I know it should be at 14.50 .. so two things going on my stereo the volume works on high when I try to lower it the speakers cut out no sound .. so I’m wondering the bad alternator shorted out the battery some ? The car starts no problem no brake light on dash no battery light either .. so anybody got suggestions?
Last edited by nissan99; 08-25-2018 at 02:52 PM.
08-26-2018, 10:58 AM
#9
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Need some help p1605 code
ok I just installed a new alternator because the old one Shorted out from oil on it .. well when I was checking the old one out at the battery with a meter it was getting hot the probes so I shut car off immediately.. so order a new alternator installed it .. the car starts but went to check volts at the battery it was 11.70 running 11.40 not started and I was like wtf .. my radio has no sound .. so I get the code p1605 so I’m wondering if the battery took a hit from the bad alternator? So I’m thinking to get a new battery it under warrenty .. so I think the battery being weak is causing the code to show up never had before after all this has started .. or maybe the alternator harness is bad .. cause the new alternator is not charging the battery .., any help thanks
08-26-2018, 11:52 AM
#10
Hard to say w/o knowing more about your stereo system and its needs for power. For example, do you have a properly sized capacitor/voltage regulator just for the stereo?
Since you had alternator issues, often a failing alternator wipes out or destroys a battery's ability to operate properly. I suggest having your battery tested with and w/o loads and go from there.
EDIT: I merged your two threads into one since it's all related.
Since you had alternator issues, often a failing alternator wipes out or destroys a battery's ability to operate properly. I suggest having your battery tested with and w/o loads and go from there.
EDIT: I merged your two threads into one since it's all related.
Last edited by The Wizard; 08-26-2018 at 11:54 AM.
08-26-2018, 12:20 PM
#11
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Hard to say w/o knowing more about your stereo system and its needs for power. For example, do you have a properly sized capacitor/voltage regulator just for the stereo?
Since you had alternator issues, often a failing alternator wipes out or destroys a battery's ability to operate properly. I suggest having your battery tested with and w/o loads and go from there.
EDIT: I merged your two threads into one since it's all related.
Since you had alternator issues, often a failing alternator wipes out or destroys a battery's ability to operate properly. I suggest having your battery tested with and w/o loads and go from there.
EDIT: I merged your two threads into one since it's all related.
Last edited by nissan99; 08-26-2018 at 12:25 PM.
08-26-2018, 03:01 PM
#13
ok went check all the fuses they are fine .. so I’m guessing the battery took a hit it won’t take a charge it holds at 11.70 when running .. so maybe why I get no sound from the radio needs more volts ..so I reset the code p1605 too see if it comes back .. going to get a new battery tomorrow.. everything works so I’m thinking that the alternator short it self out and took the battery too . Hopeing not sure he wiring ..oh the stereo is the stock Bose..
08-26-2018, 03:30 PM
#14
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yes I know that but if the battery got shorted it will not charge correct? So I’m thinking change out battery and if that don’t work maybe the alternator harness is shot ? Causing it not to charge .. I bought a new alternator not a rebuilt .. battery is a interstate two years old ..
08-27-2018, 09:49 AM
#16
Invest in a battery analyzer they're about $50-$80 at NAPA....You can also use your OBD2 tester if you have the extra features to test the electrical charging and storage systems....easy peasy....cuts out all that guess work for ppl that don't know what using normal test procedures with a VOM....
08-27-2018, 01:29 PM
#19
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well got a new battery under warrenty and installed it the code p1605 went away thank god .. so yea the battery had short cell .. car is running fine but sometimes I get a battery light flickering and goes away .. so I have meter install unit to watch what’s going on for battery and alternator everything looks Good .. one last thing my stereo works but no sound and sometimes I get sound just crazy 😜
08-27-2018, 07:33 PM
#20
well got a new battery under warrenty and installed it the code p1605 went away thank god .. so yea the battery had short cell .. car is running fine but sometimes I get a battery light flickering and goes away .. so I have meter install unit to watch what’s going on for battery and alternator everything looks Good .. one last thing my stereo works but no sound and sometimes I get sound just crazy 😜
08-28-2018, 10:37 AM
#21
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well i found the problem with brake light and battery light flicker it’s the plug at top of the alternator I can wiggle it it goes off .. must a break in the wire or something.. well anybody has a spare to sell that’s good ? Hate to go to the bone yard just got to get fixed
08-28-2018, 11:54 AM
#22
Is it the alternator plug or the wiring harness connector? More than likely the connector is missing the lock or the terminals are spread too far open...inspect it and see exactly what's wore or broke! Got to the boneyard and cut off another alternator plug... disassemble it and use the connector body, these connectors are modular!
08-29-2018, 09:40 AM
#23
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https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-pa...tor-2407640u00
from:
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...t-working.html
search "alternator sub harness" in the 4th Gen forum to find this information
from:
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...t-working.html
search "alternator sub harness" in the 4th Gen forum to find this information
08-29-2018, 12:44 PM
#24
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Is it the alternator plug or the wiring harness connector? More than likely the connector is missing the lock or the terminals are spread too far open...inspect it and see exactly what's wore or broke! Got to the boneyard and cut off another alternator plug... disassemble it and use the connector body, these connectors are modular!
08-29-2018, 10:48 PM
#25
I would've cut it off and pocketed it...You can disassemble the connector if it's the connector body...if it's the pins then splice the connector in!
08-31-2018, 02:48 PM
#26
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ok update got the plug from boneyard hook up workin like it should .. but found a another problem on the ground on the passenger side was melted from the bad alternator . It runs threw the loom so went by my mechanic to see what to do ? So we unhook it from the chassis side.. and ran a ground wire from the chassis bolt Thur to bracket where the alternator grounds .. my battery analyzer says everything is good .. but my vom meter is reading the battery while the car is running at 12.80 volts ? Something is lying .. car runs good no stalling nothing .. starts right up .. where does that bad ground run to ..
Last edited by nissan99; 08-31-2018 at 02:50 PM.
08-31-2018, 04:19 PM
#27
That might be a problem if you don't have it loaded down....But if you do have a load on it like headlights/fogslights/a-c fan full/caution lights/ interior lights and it's reading 12.8 v that's ok
09-01-2018, 11:45 AM
#29
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last update was checking out that chassis ground at boneyard it seem there’s no insulation on it ether and it runs threw the harness along near the top of the radiator this is the one by the alternator and bolts to passenger fender .. all is running good starts on a dime .. I pulled another radio out and going to install it so I have sound again!!! My radio something happen to tuner and shorted it out .. sometimes I have sound then I try to turn the **** and nothing happens .. oh well thanks to everybody input I am a happy camper .. love the max
Last edited by nissan99; 09-01-2018 at 11:48 AM.
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