bad charcoal canister or leaking injector(s)??
03-10-2019, 02:40 PM
#1
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bad charcoal canister or leaking injector(s)??
after what seems like an eternity of trying to get maxy back up and running right, i was reading that a failed charcoal canister or the valve in front of it can get clogged or stuck shut. i am going to check the front 3 injectors this week if possible, but i read that topping off your gas makes the canister fill with gas causing the gas smell. i don't do that, but will a 24+ year old canister and/or valve cause my problem ( smoke and gas smell at start up ), or are the injectors ( that i have no codes for ) causing the issue? i know many of you want to say injectors, but, 4 of them are new, and 2 of them are about 2 years old with no codes. i truly hate to start a new thread, but i am so frustrated with this problem after all i've done to maxy she should run perfect. where to get new canister and valve in front of it that that are reasonable and cheap, thanks
Last edited by max ride 41; 03-10-2019 at 02:42 PM.
03-10-2019, 03:33 PM
#2
If it's the model where the charcoal cannister is located at the back of the car (on driver side), it is pretty cheap brand new from the dealer.
https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-pa...bC12Ni1nYXM%3D
https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-pa...bC12Ni1nYXM%3D
03-10-2019, 06:59 PM
#4
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Its faiirly easy to pull the lines off the charcoal canister behind the driver’s rear wheel and check it - if there’s charcoal falling out of it, well then theres your problem.
There will also almost certainly be charcoal all the way up the line to the valve on top of the intake that it all connects to...you have to take it all apart and blow the charcoal out the line, plus replace the chacoal canister.
i made a thread about this not that long ago, look for my username and EVAP...the charcoal canister fails internally due to age.
There will also almost certainly be charcoal all the way up the line to the valve on top of the intake that it all connects to...you have to take it all apart and blow the charcoal out the line, plus replace the chacoal canister.
i made a thread about this not that long ago, look for my username and EVAP...the charcoal canister fails internally due to age.
03-10-2019, 07:12 PM
#5
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Its faiirly easy to pull the lines off the charcoal canister behind the driver’s rear wheel and check it - if there’s charcoal falling out of it, well then there's your problem.
There will also almost certainly be charcoal all the way up the line to the valve on top of the intake that it all connects to...you have to take it all apart and blow the charcoal out the line, plus replace the charcoal canister.
i made a thread about this not that long ago, look for my username and EVAP...the charcoal canister fails internally due to age.
There will also almost certainly be charcoal all the way up the line to the valve on top of the intake that it all connects to...you have to take it all apart and blow the charcoal out the line, plus replace the charcoal canister.
i made a thread about this not that long ago, look for my username and EVAP...the charcoal canister fails internally due to age.
03-11-2019, 04:52 AM
#6
If you're going to keep (and actually drive) a 20 to 25 year old car, parts will need to be replaced ... sometimes simply for the sake of replacing a 20 to 25 year old part.
Replacing a 20-25 year old carbon canister, notwithstanding it's potential failure, is smart.
Ditto on the fuel pump (I've actually got one of these on the shelf in the garage) myself.
Your car's insured (as in you keep an auto policy), right?
This is the pretty much the same thing.
03-11-2019, 09:25 PM
#8
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I'm going to scold you again, grasshopper, for these sentiments.
If you're going to keep (and actually drive) a 20 to 25 year old car, parts will need to be replaced ... sometimes simply for the sake of replacing a 20 to 25 year old part.
Replacing a 20-25 year old carbon canister, notwithstanding it's potential failure, is smart.
Ditto on the fuel pump (I've actually got one of these on the shelf in the garage) myself.
Your car's insured (as in you keep an auto policy), right?
This is the pretty much the same thing.
If you're going to keep (and actually drive) a 20 to 25 year old car, parts will need to be replaced ... sometimes simply for the sake of replacing a 20 to 25 year old part.
Replacing a 20-25 year old carbon canister, notwithstanding it's potential failure, is smart.
Ditto on the fuel pump (I've actually got one of these on the shelf in the garage) myself.
Your car's insured (as in you keep an auto policy), right?
This is the pretty much the same thing.
03-11-2019, 09:42 PM
#9
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Posts: 675
Right on the ECTS and a good idea. Over the next 5-10years you'll probably of replaced most if not all the sensors and other wear items. But then it will be a born again Maxima
Last edited by Violator; 03-11-2019 at 09:45 PM.
03-12-2019, 03:47 AM
#11
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03-12-2019, 05:24 AM
#12
Although I do have the benefit of having three vehicles at my disposal and you may not, I personally am all about the "phased approach" if you can go that route.
Replace your carbon can ... see if that does it. But, be prepared for the possibility that it's not truly the problem.
Replace your fuel pump ... see if that does it. But, be prepared for the possibility that it's not truly the problem.
I do still feel strongly, based on your previous descriptions, that your issue is very likely an injector issue.
Nonetheless, your investigation and replacement of old parts and pieces isn't stupid and it's not a waste of money.
I think you going after the ECU as the culprit should be your last option unless you've got some very compelling evidence pointing to that component. You've got a couple of much more likely causes staring you in the face that should, IMO, be addressed first.
Replace your carbon can ... see if that does it. But, be prepared for the possibility that it's not truly the problem.
Replace your fuel pump ... see if that does it. But, be prepared for the possibility that it's not truly the problem.
I do still feel strongly, based on your previous descriptions, that your issue is very likely an injector issue.
Nonetheless, your investigation and replacement of old parts and pieces isn't stupid and it's not a waste of money.
I think you going after the ECU as the culprit should be your last option unless you've got some very compelling evidence pointing to that component. You've got a couple of much more likely causes staring you in the face that should, IMO, be addressed first.
03-12-2019, 06:28 AM
#13
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Location: in my max, pa. :p
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Although I do have the benefit of having three vehicles at my disposal and you may not, I personally am all about the "phased approach" if you can go that route.
Replace your carbon can ... see if that does it. But, be prepared for the possibility that it's not truly the problem.
Replace your fuel pump ... see if that does it. But, be prepared for the possibility that it's not truly the problem.
I do still feel strongly, based on your previous descriptions, that your issue is very likely an injector issue.
Nonetheless, your investigation and replacement of old parts and pieces isn't stupid and it's not a waste of money.
I think you going after the ECU as the culprit should be your last option unless you've got some very compelling evidence pointing to that component. You've got a couple of much more likely causes staring you in the face that should, IMO, be addressed first.
Replace your carbon can ... see if that does it. But, be prepared for the possibility that it's not truly the problem.
Replace your fuel pump ... see if that does it. But, be prepared for the possibility that it's not truly the problem.
I do still feel strongly, based on your previous descriptions, that your issue is very likely an injector issue.
Nonetheless, your investigation and replacement of old parts and pieces isn't stupid and it's not a waste of money.
I think you going after the ECU as the culprit should be your last option unless you've got some very compelling evidence pointing to that component. You've got a couple of much more likely causes staring you in the face that should, IMO, be addressed first.
03-12-2019, 07:25 AM
#14
03-12-2019, 03:39 PM
#16
Are all the plugs black? If they are on all of them, I doubt it would be an injector issue and I would imagine it being more of a global fuel issue. If only individual ones are, then I think you could narrow down the issue.
03-12-2019, 05:31 PM
#17
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Posts: 1,560
Injectors my dude, I went through the same thing. Flow test and make sure they're spraying correctly. Otherwise, the misfire comes back. I went through 7 brand new injectors before realizing they were all defective and did not know if they were flowing correctly in the first place. Before that, my injectors were the originals that came from the car (super dirty and dusty).
Injectors may have been defective right out of the box! cause that's what happened to me and I thought it was something else because of the smoke coming out of the exhaust. Do not overthink this before you start replacing parts that are not solving the problem. Black spark plugs is a big red flag that it is running rich, running like cat ****, fuel smell, and stalling. It is clear its injectors.
Injectors may have been defective right out of the box! cause that's what happened to me and I thought it was something else because of the smoke coming out of the exhaust. Do not overthink this before you start replacing parts that are not solving the problem. Black spark plugs is a big red flag that it is running rich, running like cat ****, fuel smell, and stalling. It is clear its injectors.
Last edited by JoshG; 03-12-2019 at 05:38 PM.
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