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Oil leak even after both valve covers and oil pressure switch replaced...
My problem started when the initial oil leak destroyed my alternator so i replaced the valve covers and alternator. Oil still leaking after valve covers and oil pressure switch replaced. I ran my hands along the valve covers to see if it was still leaking and i applied Rtv in the corners.
Last edited by blakkrob; 11-11-2018 at 01:00 PM.
Reason: Added pic
Follow the oil when it leaking from... Cam sensor on the passenger side has on oring, only that and the valve covers are higher than the alternator. It was probably the valve cover that caused that oil leak. look around the oil pan for the leak
Check the perimeter of the Timing Chain Cover along with any service doors for tensioner and/or water pump, Front Seal and Oil Pan Gasket as well. Power steering pump is right there as well and connections all the way to the rack do get wonky sometimes.
This is the Nirvana stage with 4th Gens. Like you want to shoot yourself as you do everything and it still it drips. Or you could just say screw it. LOL Better outcome for you!
Check the perimeter of the Timing Chain Cover along with any service doors for tensioner and/or water pump, Front Seal and Oil Pan Gasket as well. Power steering pump is right there as well and connections all the way to the rack do get wonky sometimes.
This is the Nirvana stage with 4th Gens. Like you want to shoot yourself as you do everything and it still it drips. Or you could just say screw it. LOL Better outcome for you!
Ok. The areas of the timing chain service doors look like the problem areas. The lowest door right behind the belt tensioner. Is this a simple fix?
Don't mean to hijack, but my car has been leaking oil forever, from the same spot as OP. Got a better view tonight when I pulled the passenger side axle out in the process of replacing my transmission- oil all over the power steering pump and that whole vicinity, but nothing too much higher than that. Oil pan or??? See huge picture below. Might be a good time to repair whatever it is since I got the axles and transmission out.
Every time I do an UOP job on one of my 4th gens I learn something new. One of the latest learning items is to use the Fel Pro half-moon gasket set with the correct sized o-rings instead of OEM. The o-rings are not listed in the Fel-Pro picture with the half-moons. However, the o-rings are the correct size. There is another member who had this experience a few months ago.
I used all OEM gaskets for the UOP including the oil pump o rings
They seemed every so slightly too big, but a little rtv held it in place for the install and no leaks at all
Something must have changed with the parts. I don't remember an issue when I did the 99 model a few years ago. Then came the 97 model last year. I had the same problem in this thread.
To remove the upper, yes, but you don't have to disconnect the lines, just unbolt it and the bracket for it and use a bungee cord or something to support it while you wrench
Great- that’s what I was wondering. My AC works perfectly and don’t want to mess it up by decompressing it, disengaging the lines, reconnecting the lines, and then recharging. If it’s not broken, don’t touch it!
Do you guys use a hoist or cherry picker to hold the engine while removing the oil pan? Being that the pan removal reduces the ability to place a jack under the engine, I would imagine I could hold the engine up with a jack by holding transmission up so long as the motor mounts are still attached to the car frame. Or another recommendation?
I got around to pulling the clutch, pressure plate,and flywheel off tonight.
What I found was quite confusing: rear main seal (obviously leaking due to the amount of oil that was in my transmission bell housing) with a **** ton of RTV used on it.
I am guessing a previous owner refused to buy a new seal kit and used RTV instead, hoping it would fix things?
I got around to pulling the clutch, pressure plate,and flywheel off tonight.
What I found was quite confusing: rear main seal (obviously leaking due to the amount of oil that was in my transmission bell housing) with a **** ton of RTV used on it.
I am guessing a previous owner refused to buy a new seal kit and used RTV instead, hoping it would fix things?
Looks like they had the transmission, realized they had an oil leak, then put on some RTV to try to stop the leak instead of replacing the RMS and the UOP half moon.
On removing the Y-Pipe from the exhaust manifold, I use the following type of impact u-joint and socket in the hard to reach areas. Use plenty of penetrating lubricant.
11-11-2018, 12:28 PM
