Idle Air Control Valve?
11-19-2018, 11:07 AM
#1
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Idle Air Control Valve?
My 97 Maxima was running just fine until yesterday. I drove it to the grocery store and everything was normal. When I got back in the car to come home the car started just fine but was idling very rough and seemed to be on the verge of stalling. I was able to make it home (less than 2 miles) but acceleration was very weak and it felt like the car was constantly going to stall. The car does idle a little better was in park or neutral.
I popped the hood but found no vacuum leaks. Could the problem be the idle air control valve/sensor? Your advice would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks!
I popped the hood but found no vacuum leaks. Could the problem be the idle air control valve/sensor? Your advice would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks!
11-19-2018, 04:33 PM
#6
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Thanks! Because of the hesitation the car has could it be the MAF just needs to be cleaned?
11-19-2018, 07:23 PM
#9
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11-20-2018, 08:57 AM
#10
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11-20-2018, 09:06 AM
#11
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Location: Portland, Oregon
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Some auto parts chains will hook up their scanner to read your codes. Write down what they tell you.
I use a BAFX scanner which sells on Amazon for about 20 dollars. It connects to my smart phone by blue tooth or wi-fi.
You really should buy a scanner like that if you are going to be working on cars. They really don't cost much any more.
Scanners are needed to the same reason that you need a socket wrench set. Required to do the job.
I use a BAFX scanner which sells on Amazon for about 20 dollars. It connects to my smart phone by blue tooth or wi-fi.
You really should buy a scanner like that if you are going to be working on cars. They really don't cost much any more.
Scanners are needed to the same reason that you need a socket wrench set. Required to do the job.
11-20-2018, 10:49 AM
#12
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Posts: 26
Some auto parts chains will hook up their scanner to read your codes. Write down what they tell you.
I use a BAFX scanner which sells on Amazon for about 20 dollars. It connects to my smart phone by blue tooth or wi-fi.
You really should buy a scanner like that if you are going to be working on cars. They really don't cost much any more.
Scanners are needed to the same reason that you need a socket wrench set. Required to do the job.
I use a BAFX scanner which sells on Amazon for about 20 dollars. It connects to my smart phone by blue tooth or wi-fi.
You really should buy a scanner like that if you are going to be working on cars. They really don't cost much any more.
Scanners are needed to the same reason that you need a socket wrench set. Required to do the job.
11-20-2018, 08:05 PM
#13
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 26
Some auto parts chains will hook up their scanner to read your codes. Write down what they tell you.
I use a BAFX scanner which sells on Amazon for about 20 dollars. It connects to my smart phone by blue tooth or wi-fi.
You really should buy a scanner like that if you are going to be working on cars. They really don't cost much any more.
Scanners are needed to the same reason that you need a socket wrench set. Required to do the job.
I use a BAFX scanner which sells on Amazon for about 20 dollars. It connects to my smart phone by blue tooth or wi-fi.
You really should buy a scanner like that if you are going to be working on cars. They really don't cost much any more.
Scanners are needed to the same reason that you need a socket wrench set. Required to do the job.
P0301 cylinder 1 misfire detected
P1320 ignition control signal circuit malfunction
I assume this means that the cylinder 1 ignition coil needs to be replaced - is that correct? Also, cylinder 1 is located in the back row (close to the firewall) in the left corner if you are facing the front of the car. Is that correct? Is this something I can easily install myself? Thanks!
11-21-2018, 06:23 AM
#14
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 73
I took your advice and had my car scanned at AutoZone. I shows the following codes:
P0301 cylinder 1 misfire detected
P1320 ignition control signal circuit malfunction
I assume this means that the cylinder 1 ignition coil needs to be replaced - is that correct? Also, cylinder 1 is located in the back row (close to the firewall) in the left corner if you are facing the front of the car. Is that correct? Is this something I can easily install myself? Thanks!
P0301 cylinder 1 misfire detected
P1320 ignition control signal circuit malfunction
I assume this means that the cylinder 1 ignition coil needs to be replaced - is that correct? Also, cylinder 1 is located in the back row (close to the firewall) in the left corner if you are facing the front of the car. Is that correct? Is this something I can easily install myself? Thanks!
the bad coil pack.
11-21-2018, 08:20 AM
#15
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So I don't need to disconnect the battery first before removing an ignition coil?
11-21-2018, 09:05 AM
#16
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Location: Portland, Oregon
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You will not get shocked by messing with the coils if the engine is off. Bransams method is a good one.
He means test each coil as follows......
1. Begin with the engine off.
2. Remove the wire from the suspected bad coil.
3. Start engine. It should run the same as it has recently.
4 Shut engine off. Replace that coil wire.
5. Remove the wire from another coil. Start engine. The car should run worse than before. Shut engine off. Replace coil wire.
6 repete for last coil back there.
The cylinder which run's the same whether or not the coil wire is attached to probaby has a bad coil.
7. If you had your own scanner , the final test to confirm bad coil is to trade the suspect bad coil to another cylinder. The problem wold follow the coil.
He means test each coil as follows......
1. Begin with the engine off.
2. Remove the wire from the suspected bad coil.
3. Start engine. It should run the same as it has recently.
4 Shut engine off. Replace that coil wire.
5. Remove the wire from another coil. Start engine. The car should run worse than before. Shut engine off. Replace coil wire.
6 repete for last coil back there.
The cylinder which run's the same whether or not the coil wire is attached to probaby has a bad coil.
7. If you had your own scanner , the final test to confirm bad coil is to trade the suspect bad coil to another cylinder. The problem wold follow the coil.
11-21-2018, 10:28 AM
#17
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 26
You will not get shocked by messing with the coils if the engine is off. Bransams method is a good one.
He means test each coil as follows......
1. Begin with the engine off.
2. Remove the wire from the suspected bad coil.
3. Start engine. It should run the same as it has recently.
4 Shut engine off. Replace that coil wire.
5. Remove the wire from another coil. Start engine. The car should run worse than before. Shut engine off. Replace coil wire.
6 repete for last coil back there.
The cylinder which run's the same whether or not the coil wire is attached to probaby has a bad coil.
7. If you had your own scanner , the final test to confirm bad coil is to trade the suspect bad coil to another cylinder. The problem wold follow the coil.
He means test each coil as follows......
1. Begin with the engine off.
2. Remove the wire from the suspected bad coil.
3. Start engine. It should run the same as it has recently.
4 Shut engine off. Replace that coil wire.
5. Remove the wire from another coil. Start engine. The car should run worse than before. Shut engine off. Replace coil wire.
6 repete for last coil back there.
The cylinder which run's the same whether or not the coil wire is attached to probaby has a bad coil.
7. If you had your own scanner , the final test to confirm bad coil is to trade the suspect bad coil to another cylinder. The problem wold follow the coil.
Can I do all this with both battery terminals connected the entire time?
Since the scanner said the problem is a misfire in cylinder 1 and there is an ignition coil malfunction, isn't that the cylinder with the bad coil?
11-21-2018, 02:16 PM
#18
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 73
Yes you can leave the battery plugged up. And yes if it says its that specific cylinder then its that specific coil thats bad. Just replace that one and you should be good.
11-22-2018, 09:35 AM
#19
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Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 2,979
Sometimes the injector or the spark plug is the cause. This is why we disconnect the wires to the suspect coil, to see if doing that makes a difference. It shouldnt.
11-22-2018, 10:13 PM
#20
11-22-2018, 10:15 PM
#21
there is NOTHING specific about these damn vq's, trust me. have you seen the fsm??
11-23-2018, 09:27 AM
#23
11-25-2018, 11:24 PM
#24
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 26
I replaced the cylinder 1 ignition coil and the car runs fine again. I bought the car new in 1997 and this is the only cylinder to get a new coil ever. Thanks again for the advice! In fact, the car seems to be running better than it has in years. Could it be that particular coil has been going bad for years and about a week ago it just stop working completely leading to the rough idle?
11-26-2018, 10:13 AM
#27
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