so, compression test should yield what numbers?
#41
Your have an AIR LEAK through the ripped injector O rings!!!
the injector is working just fine. So no codes.
Famairize yourself how the ecu compensates for air leaks.
Did you or did you not oil the O rings before installing them.
the injector is working just fine. So no codes.
Famairize yourself how the ecu compensates for air leaks.
Did you or did you not oil the O rings before installing them.
Last edited by JvG; 12-05-2018 at 06:39 PM. Reason: Additional comment added.
#42
Originally Posted by max ride 41;91895h87
i've done a lot of research and understand what makes the car tick. but i don't fully understand why if the injectors don't throw a code and not leaking how they can still not be working other than maybe not firing properly because of some dirty fuel or a bad fpr etc.thanks for your input
You STILE dont understand . There is an AIR LEAK between the injector and the head. The AIR is going through where the ripped or distorted O ring should be, but isnt.
The ecu responds to the leak by adding excess fuel.
if you had the 22 dollar Amazon BAFX scanner I reccomend, your phone would tell you that the mixture is WAY too rich.
#43
i've done a lot of research and understand what makes the car tick. but i don't fully understand why if the injectors don't throw a code and not leaking how they can still not be working other than maybe not firing properly because of some dirty fuel or a bad fpr etc.thanks for your input
Have fun continuing to eff your car up, cuz you'd rather argue than properly diagnose the poor thing, or fix the little mistakes you and your "mechanic" made. Oh and about the rust in your mirror? Yes, that IS normal, especially here in the rust belt. I don't know why you're shocked. Then again, I don't know anyone who would drop 10k on body work/complete paint job for a car that a) is a daily rust belt car and b) isn't even mechanically sound.
Last edited by maxima297; 12-05-2018 at 06:58 PM.
#45
This member is telling you that the valve cover needs to be installed correctly. Or air will leak though the gaps. The ecu would enrich the mixture to compensate for that leak as well..
#46
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i'm tired of arguing with you guys. i've done multiple scans and yes rtv was used upon install of new valve cover gaskets. i'm not going to yank all the injectors off the motor to check the o rings, that's ridiculous. i'm not a kid here guys, been around cars a long time, injectors are practically NEW!! tell me why the master tech at nissan didn't mention anything about the injectors?? he said coils and vacuum leaks. why is it not possible that a fpr that's original (24 years old ) is bad? the engine wasn't rebuilt, just had a lot of work done to it, period. i would love to have 1 of you guys see the engine and hear it run, it's almost finished. it actually runs pretty good except for the hesitation and low throttle as stated.
#47
i'm tired of arguing with you guys. i've done multiple scans and yes rtv was used upon install of new valve cover gaskets. i'm not going to yank all the injectors off the motor to check the o rings, that's ridiculous. i'm not a kid here guys, been around cars a long time, injectors are practically NEW!! tell me why the master tech at nissan didn't mention anything about the injectors?? he said coils and vacuum leaks. why is it not possible that a fpr that's original (24 years old ) is bad? the engine wasn't rebuilt, just had a lot of work done to it, period. i would love to have 1 of you guys see the engine and hear it run, it's almost finished. it actually runs pretty good except for the hesitation and low throttle as stated.
You refuse to do the very thing which will probably fix your car.
You have a massive vaccuum leak.
You can chase your tail till the cows come home, but your car will continue to have its problem till you sell it from frustration.
While the new owner will fix this problem inxpensivly and then have a good car.
I've been working on cars since 1971. I know more than you do.
You tried to do it your way. Now try mine.
CS-AR and Wizard are very respected membets of this board. They say pretty much the same thing.
From now on, I'll just post a chirp, chirp, chirp as I watch you flounder around still more. It seems that all other members have given up trying to help you as well.
#49
Again , did you oil the O rings? If yes, the problem is probably elsewhere.
But if you did NOT oil them, you have ripped o rings which create a vaccuum leak.
We are tired of arguing with you as well.
You are not willing to respond to direct questions, or to listen to reason.
But if you did NOT oil them, you have ripped o rings which create a vaccuum leak.
We are tired of arguing with you as well.
You are not willing to respond to direct questions, or to listen to reason.
Last edited by JvG; 12-05-2018 at 08:09 PM. Reason: Spell check
#51
Maybe he can spray something around suspected vac leak areas because then you don't have to pull the injectors out to make sure they're leaking vac. I've never tried that with injector o-ring leaks but it should work like any other vac leak.
#52
an unlit propane torch head held very close to a leak would result in an increase in engine speed.
#53
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so, started it up tonight and fuel smells strong out of the exhaust. first time i've smelled it in 2 weeks. wtf? i've never had a issue like this ever before with this car. i already told my mechanic we're swapping front 3 injectors next week and checking the rears. by the way jvg, he did oil up the o rings for the back 3 when he put them in as well as the front 2 he did this year as well.
#54
so, started it up tonight and fuel smells strong out of the exhaust. first time i've smelled it in 2 weeks. wtf? i've never had a issue like this ever before with this car. i already told my mechanic we're swapping front 3 injectors next week and checking the rears. by the way jvg, he did oil up the o rings for the back 3 when he put them in as well as the front 2 he did this year as well.
Since the rear injectors are new and the seals were oiled when they were installed, they are no longer likely to cause this issue.
So that leaves the front injectors.
Or another possibility is indeed the fpr.
I would remove it's vacuum line. If gas drips out, or if it smells like gas, it's defective. If not, it's good.
You also want to think about getting a proper scan tool such as the one I mentioned. It saves a lot of guess work, and expense.
The scanner would show a rich mixture.
It would indicate a vacuum reading as well. Low vacuum means a leak.
I'm trying to save you from doing extra work next week.
Which is why I asked repeatedly whether or not the injector O rings were oiled.
#55
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Ok.
Since the rear injectors are new and the seals were oiled when they were installed, they are no longer likely to cause this issue.
So that leaves the front injectors.
Or another possibility is indeed the fpr.
I would remove it's vacuum line. If gas drips out, or if it smells like gas, it's defective. If not, it's good.
You also want to think about getting a proper scan tool such as the one I mentioned. It saves a lot of guess work, and expense.
The scanner would show a rich mixture.
It would indicate a vacuum reading as well. Low vacuum means a leak.
I'm trying to save you from doing extra work next week.
Which is why I asked repeatedly whether or not the injector O rings were oiled.
Since the rear injectors are new and the seals were oiled when they were installed, they are no longer likely to cause this issue.
So that leaves the front injectors.
Or another possibility is indeed the fpr.
I would remove it's vacuum line. If gas drips out, or if it smells like gas, it's defective. If not, it's good.
You also want to think about getting a proper scan tool such as the one I mentioned. It saves a lot of guess work, and expense.
The scanner would show a rich mixture.
It would indicate a vacuum reading as well. Low vacuum means a leak.
I'm trying to save you from doing extra work next week.
Which is why I asked repeatedly whether or not the injector O rings were oiled.
#56
its located close to the rightmost injector when you stand in fronthe of the car.
Do a search on the forum for photos.
#57
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so, my mechanic tried to do a fuel pressure check and his kit didn't have a fitting small enough to do the test. so, on to the injectors, unplugged the front 3 and got a good reading with the ohm meter so i know the rears that are new are fine. we took it for a test drive and it stalled twice and was bucking at around 40 to 60 mph. i saw where the fpr was, looks relatively easy to do. problem is, how do i know if it's not the fuel pump? which should i replace first, they both have similar problems when failing/going south. symptoms still are, stalling, some fuel smell out of the exhaust, bucking at certain speeds. as i was driving it through town at low throttle it stalled at 2 different lights like 4-5 times each after driving a few miles ( like 12 ) so i parked it and let it cool off and after 3 hours of starting running the heat and turning it off it got me home no problems.
#58
It's probably best to take the car to a different mechanic. One who can finally do an accurate diagnosis regarding what is wrong with your car.
You have been throwing parts at it. That gets expensive.
You can repair the car yourself once you know what the story is.
I can't figure it out anymore.
Best wishes... I know it's frustrating.
You have been throwing parts at it. That gets expensive.
You can repair the car yourself once you know what the story is.
I can't figure it out anymore.
Best wishes... I know it's frustrating.
#59
I'm still calling injector failure ...
You can't be assured your injectors are in good operating condition simply based on the fact that the injectors are getting good/adequate electrical input.
It's the physical/mechanical aspects of the injectors that typically fail ... a failed O-ring or broken or missing pintle cap aren't going to result in an out of spec. ohm meter result.
Your recurrent fuel smell from your exhaust is a clear sign of a failure and your drive-ability issues only reinforce that in my mind.
Regarding your FPR ... pull the small diameter vacuum hose off of the FPR nipple. Is there raw fuel in the hose of is the inside of the hose or is the nipple wet or moist with fuel? If so, the FPR has failed.
You can't be assured your injectors are in good operating condition simply based on the fact that the injectors are getting good/adequate electrical input.
It's the physical/mechanical aspects of the injectors that typically fail ... a failed O-ring or broken or missing pintle cap aren't going to result in an out of spec. ohm meter result.
Your recurrent fuel smell from your exhaust is a clear sign of a failure and your drive-ability issues only reinforce that in my mind.
Regarding your FPR ... pull the small diameter vacuum hose off of the FPR nipple. Is there raw fuel in the hose of is the inside of the hose or is the nipple wet or moist with fuel? If so, the FPR has failed.
Last edited by Turbobink; 12-11-2018 at 04:42 AM.
#60
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I'm still calling injector failure ...
You can't be assured your injectors are in good operating condition simply based on the fact that the injectors are getting good/adequate electrical input.
It's the physical/mechanical aspects of the injectors that typically fail ... a failed O-ring or broken or missing pintle cap aren't going to result in an out of spec. ohm meter result.
Your recurrent fuel smell from your exhaust is a clear sign of a failure and your drive-ability issues only reinforce that in my mind.
Regarding your FPR ... pull the small diameter vacuum hose off of the FPR nipple. Is there raw fuel in the hose of is the inside of the hose or is the nipple wet or moist with fuel? If so, the FPR has failed.
You can't be assured your injectors are in good operating condition simply based on the fact that the injectors are getting good/adequate electrical input.
It's the physical/mechanical aspects of the injectors that typically fail ... a failed O-ring or broken or missing pintle cap aren't going to result in an out of spec. ohm meter result.
Your recurrent fuel smell from your exhaust is a clear sign of a failure and your drive-ability issues only reinforce that in my mind.
Regarding your FPR ... pull the small diameter vacuum hose off of the FPR nipple. Is there raw fuel in the hose of is the inside of the hose or is the nipple wet or moist with fuel? If so, the FPR has failed.
#61
I'm still calling injector failure ...
You can't be assured your injectors are in good operating condition simply based on the fact that the injectors are getting good/adequate electrical input.
It's the physical/mechanical aspects of the injectors that typically fail ... a failed O-ring or broken or missing pintle cap aren't going to result in an out of spec. ohm meter result.
You can't be assured your injectors are in good operating condition simply based on the fact that the injectors are getting good/adequate electrical input.
It's the physical/mechanical aspects of the injectors that typically fail ... a failed O-ring or broken or missing pintle cap aren't going to result in an out of spec. ohm meter result.
As stated by others, you need a better mechanic that truly knows how to rule out suspect parts.
#62
There are plenty of "techs" out there that can hook up a scan-tool and do those things their windows-based program tells them to do, but when it comes to truly diagnosing issues based on operational symptoms ... it ain't happening anymore.
#63
These guys (mechanics), like WWII veterans, are becoming more and more scarce, and it's a damn shame.
There are plenty of "techs" out there that can hook up a scan-tool and do those things their windows-based program tells them to do, but when it comes to truly diagnosing issues based on operational symptoms ... it ain't happening anymore.
There are plenty of "techs" out there that can hook up a scan-tool and do those things their windows-based program tells them to do, but when it comes to truly diagnosing issues based on operational symptoms ... it ain't happening anymore.
I'm 64. My cars had no computer controls of any kind. All the diagnosis I did was based on symptoms alone.
That background might explain why I refer to symptoms on this forum.
My first car with an ucu was a 1973 Volvo.
All the diagnosis to its fuel injection was based on symptoms and a volt ohm meter. It was not even Obd-1.
The 1996 Maxima I drive was the first one with relatively modern Obd-2.
#64
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These guys (mechanics), like WWII veterans, are becoming more and more scarce, and it's a damn shame.
There are plenty of "techs" out there that can hook up a scan-tool and do those things their windows-based program tells them to do, but when it comes to truly diagnosing issues based on operational symptoms ... it ain't happening anymore.
There are plenty of "techs" out there that can hook up a scan-tool and do those things their windows-based program tells them to do, but when it comes to truly diagnosing issues based on operational symptoms ... it ain't happening anymore.
#65
We have asked you to remove the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator. Does that line smell like gas, or does gas drop out.
Please report back.
Another thought.... is your air cleaner relatively clean, or us it filthy.
Please report back.
Another thought.... is your air cleaner relatively clean, or us it filthy.
#66
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they are brand new, no codes, no gas smell, clicking away normally. do you really insist that the injectors are bad? i would love to try doing that, but it's labor intensive and i honest to fuking god dont' think it would change anything. you wan't to buy them and send them over, i'll put them on, but plugs turning black has never happened on this car before because of a bad fuel injector or 2, just saying.
#69
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removed the vacuum line, had some white corrosive looking stuff in it and it was soft so we just replaced it. but no gas smell or gas dripping out. i am going to clean the air filter today, it's a little dirty, but not horribly dirty.
Last edited by max ride 41; 12-12-2018 at 06:40 AM.
#71
The gas smell which eminates from the tail pipe would mean excess gas. He mentions that the plugs all have fluffy carbon. So the whole engine is running rich.
I also asked him to buy a scanner such as the BAFX scanner sold on Amazon for 22 dollars. It communicates with a smart phone. It reads fuel trims. This would let us know what is going on.
But no response......
Some injectors have been replaced. The O rings were lubricated.
The fuel pump is doing its job. It provides lots and lots of gas.
I'm curious about the fuel pressure regulator.
Perhaps the fuel pressure is too high. That would explain the black fluffy deposits on all the plugs as well as the smell from the tail pipe.
#72
I'm in no position to debate whether injector's have been replaced.
However, based on statements made in this post (https://maxima.org/forums/showpost.p...4&postcount=37) I do question whether they were installed correctly.
One thing I'd personally encourage you to do max ride, is to pull your front 3 injectors (those have not been recently replaced, correct?) and have a look at they're condition ... these can be removed without much hassle.
However, based on statements made in this post (https://maxima.org/forums/showpost.p...4&postcount=37) I do question whether they were installed correctly.
One thing I'd personally encourage you to do max ride, is to pull your front 3 injectors (those have not been recently replaced, correct?) and have a look at they're condition ... these can be removed without much hassle.
#73
I'm in no position to debate whether injector's have been replaced.
However, based on statements made in this post (https://maxima.org/forums/showpost.p...4&postcount=37) I do question whether they were installed correctly.
One thing I'd personally encourage you to do max ride, is to pull your front 3 injectors (those have not been recently replaced, correct?) and have a look at they're condition ... these can be removed without much hassle.
However, based on statements made in this post (https://maxima.org/forums/showpost.p...4&postcount=37) I do question whether they were installed correctly.
One thing I'd personally encourage you to do max ride, is to pull your front 3 injectors (those have not been recently replaced, correct?) and have a look at they're condition ... these can be removed without much hassle.
Yes, I second the concept of removing and checking the front injectors. Oil the O rings when re-installing.
We want this done mostly for the process of elimination. We want to confirm that certain items function as they should. Then we can assume that the problem is elsewhere.
#74
Maxride,
please read the post about a split boot which connects the throttle body to the maf.
the member is experiencing fluffy black so it on all the plugs. Just like you are.
a split boot, or one with loose clamps will have air leaks. Which the ucu will cope with by injecting excess gas.
please check the boot, then tighten the clamps.
before you do that thiugh, see if the clamp's are tightened fairly firmly.
Sometimes it's the little things like that which we overlook.
please read the post about a split boot which connects the throttle body to the maf.
the member is experiencing fluffy black so it on all the plugs. Just like you are.
a split boot, or one with loose clamps will have air leaks. Which the ucu will cope with by injecting excess gas.
please check the boot, then tighten the clamps.
before you do that thiugh, see if the clamp's are tightened fairly firmly.
Sometimes it's the little things like that which we overlook.
#75
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Maxride,
please read the post about a split boot which connects the throttle body to the maf.
the member is experiencing fluffy black so it on all the plugs. Just like you are.
a split boot, or one with loose clamps will have air leaks. Which the ucu will cope with by injecting excess gas.
please check the boot, then tighten the clamps.
before you do that thiugh, see if the clamp's are tightened fairly firmly.
Sometimes it's the little things like that which we overlook.
please read the post about a split boot which connects the throttle body to the maf.
the member is experiencing fluffy black so it on all the plugs. Just like you are.
a split boot, or one with loose clamps will have air leaks. Which the ucu will cope with by injecting excess gas.
please check the boot, then tighten the clamps.
before you do that thiugh, see if the clamp's are tightened fairly firmly.
Sometimes it's the little things like that which we overlook.
#76
ironically, my mechanic did mention a small split in the boot. i shrugged it off because i just replaced it 7 months ago!!!! the clamps i'll check cause he probably took those damn things off so many times lately that that caused a split in the boot. still have to clean the air filter as well, been busy.
hey, you mentioned that you want to clean the filter.
is it a K&N filter?
#78
I have one as well. I've used it for 110k miles with one cleaning.
People have experienced trouble with those if too much oil is sprayed on.
The oil can coat the wire in the maf. Once that happens the ecu won't get accurate information about air flow. That could mean too much gas in the mix, or not enough.
You might want to buy a paper filter for now. Also clean your maf.
keep the k&n. You will want to put that back once your car runs right.
I'm trying to eliminate all possible variables one by one.
People have experienced trouble with those if too much oil is sprayed on.
The oil can coat the wire in the maf. Once that happens the ecu won't get accurate information about air flow. That could mean too much gas in the mix, or not enough.
You might want to buy a paper filter for now. Also clean your maf.
keep the k&n. You will want to put that back once your car runs right.
I'm trying to eliminate all possible variables one by one.
#79
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I have one as well. I've used it for 110k miles with one cleaning.
People have experienced trouble with those if too much oil is sprayed on.
The oil can coat the wire in the maf. Once that happens the ecu won't get accurate information about air flow. That could mean too much gas in the mix, or not enough.
You might want to buy a paper filter for now. Also clean your maf.
keep the k&n. You will want to put that back once your car runs right.
I'm trying to eliminate all possible variables one by one.
People have experienced trouble with those if too much oil is sprayed on.
The oil can coat the wire in the maf. Once that happens the ecu won't get accurate information about air flow. That could mean too much gas in the mix, or not enough.
You might want to buy a paper filter for now. Also clean your maf.
keep the k&n. You will want to put that back once your car runs right.
I'm trying to eliminate all possible variables one by one.
#80
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so, replaced the fpr today, it helped because i smell no more gas out of the vents or under the hood. got a code p0505, iacv, touched the terminals together and still there after we reconnected the battery. started the car, took it around the block, got on the highway and she ran great until she warmed up and i got off and she stalled at the light. so, all the symptoms lead to a fuel pump which is next. and the last thing i will do to this car. this doesn't fix it i quit.