Stillen FTSB Installation Directions
#1
Stillen FTSB Installation Directions
I splurged and bought one of these from a fellow Orger.
I would like to see Stillen's installation instructions before beginning - but I could not find them on the Series of Tubes.
Please point me to them.
Thanks -
BrianA in Houston
I would like to see Stillen's installation instructions before beginning - but I could not find them on the Series of Tubes.
Please point me to them.
Thanks -
BrianA in Houston
#2
(1) Remove front strut mounting nuts ... 6 of them;
(2) Install tower bar brackets on each strut tower;
(3) Reinstall strut mounting nuts ... 6 of them, retorquing nuts to manufacturer specs;
(4) Install tower bar into tower bar brackets;
(5) Adjust tower bar tension, using adjustment nuts, so that even/equal, yet notable force is exerted outward (i.e. toward each strut tower/strut mount).
(6) Use tower bar jamb nuts to secure tower bar adjustment nuts in place.
You’re done.
(2) Install tower bar brackets on each strut tower;
(3) Reinstall strut mounting nuts ... 6 of them, retorquing nuts to manufacturer specs;
(4) Install tower bar into tower bar brackets;
(5) Adjust tower bar tension, using adjustment nuts, so that even/equal, yet notable force is exerted outward (i.e. toward each strut tower/strut mount).
(6) Use tower bar jamb nuts to secure tower bar adjustment nuts in place.
You’re done.
#4
i'm cleaning up the used Stillen piece before installation. i'm trying to loosen it's adjustment / lubricate it and WITHOUT breaking it. Is the adjustment nut reverse thread ?
the "adjusting nut" ? did not turn counter-clockwise under moderate force...i put some kroil on it and will come back to it. it was rusty - but not _that_ rusty
the allen key bolts and nuts as delivered seem a) backwards (allen keys should face forward - if only for looks right?) and also b) beat up. What Grade bolt is necessary for replacement ?
what material are the end links made out of? they have mild corrosion on them - whats the best way to clean them up? i was thinking "wire wheel"...
i only staged this photo a little
the nut in question
the "adjusting nut" ? did not turn counter-clockwise under moderate force...i put some kroil on it and will come back to it. it was rusty - but not _that_ rusty
the allen key bolts and nuts as delivered seem a) backwards (allen keys should face forward - if only for looks right?) and also b) beat up. What Grade bolt is necessary for replacement ?
what material are the end links made out of? they have mild corrosion on them - whats the best way to clean them up? i was thinking "wire wheel"...
i only staged this photo a little
the nut in question
#5
the term "counter-clockwise" is relative to one's position.....ie bar side vs mounting bracket side. Assuming you turned the nut counter-clockwise relative to the mounting bracket, it should break free. I don't recall those eyelit bolts being reverse threaded. You said you gave it moderate force, it won't hurt anything giving it light to moderate force the other way to see if indeed they are reverse threaded. Have you tried both sides?
I would re-use the allen bolt, just clean it up. How it's mounted is personal preference. I agree with you, the allen head should be pointing towards the front of the car.
Wire-wheeling the brass looking mounting bracket will work, but keep in mind you'll have light scratches remaining. Perhaps start with a buffer wheel.
I would re-use the allen bolt, just clean it up. How it's mounted is personal preference. I agree with you, the allen head should be pointing towards the front of the car.
Wire-wheeling the brass looking mounting bracket will work, but keep in mind you'll have light scratches remaining. Perhaps start with a buffer wheel.
#6
There isnt an adjustment on the drivers’ side - only on the passenger’s side.
the bar has a threaded hole on the passengers side that the eyelet threads into. Im “looking” down the hole when I say “counterclockwise”.
i did briefly try it clockwise too
i will put the bar in a vise and try again
the bar has a threaded hole on the passengers side that the eyelet threads into. Im “looking” down the hole when I say “counterclockwise”.
i did briefly try it clockwise too
i will put the bar in a vise and try again
#7
Nut should come off like any nut should, you just need more leverage it sounds like. Why adjust it though if it doesnt need it? Its not like theres a variation in the gap between strut towers with different maximas.
#9
#10
thanks for the help...
#11
i had a text chat with stillen, they report:
"Use acetone or brake cleaner and mild-grit sandpaper or other mild metal abrasive to clean the parts. The parts are all simple steel, not copper. They are painted with metal-bonding paint from the factory. Then, spray the sanded product with a brass or gold color of your choice, and it should look good-as-new! That is literally how it is colored from manufacturing."
i wonder what "metal bonding paint" means...it looks like they're supposed to be a color similar to milodon "gold irridated" oil pans but I don't know what's a match...
there's also rust in the channel of the piece that's going to be challenging to remove (without sandblasting it) before paint...
"Use acetone or brake cleaner and mild-grit sandpaper or other mild metal abrasive to clean the parts. The parts are all simple steel, not copper. They are painted with metal-bonding paint from the factory. Then, spray the sanded product with a brass or gold color of your choice, and it should look good-as-new! That is literally how it is colored from manufacturing."
i wonder what "metal bonding paint" means...it looks like they're supposed to be a color similar to milodon "gold irridated" oil pans but I don't know what's a match...
there's also rust in the channel of the piece that's going to be challenging to remove (without sandblasting it) before paint...
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