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95 Maxima starts then dies

Old 01-06-2019, 12:55 PM
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95 Maxima starts then dies

As stated wife went out today and started our 95 Max and it started then died three times.She moved it and took our Camry being afraid of being stranded.When she came back from the store she put the Camry in the garage,started the Max and it was fine.Have three cels egr valve,knock sensor and front O2 sensor but had them all with no problems for a year.
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Old 01-06-2019, 01:16 PM
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Perhaps the idle speed is too low due to the issues you don't seem to want to fix.

Low idle speed leads to stalling.

the egr and oxy sensor issues are causing excessive fuel consumption . You are probably getting lower mileage than it could. This costs you $$!
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Old 01-06-2019, 11:10 PM
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The only things i can think of is when i started my car one time and it started fine but died right away. Later got it diagnosed i had bad battery and alternator. Never had that problem again until a few months later, my car wouldnt start at all would make a weird noise and wouldnt turn over. Found to be the battery cable. Ever since i replaced those things its good as new. Try checking battery and alternator it could be the alt...
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Old 01-07-2019, 05:30 AM
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Clean the idle air control valve and throttle body.

You should really replace the O2 and knock sensor. EGR I would just get rid of.
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Old 01-07-2019, 01:36 PM
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Egr valve delete

how do yo delete the egr valve?
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Old 01-07-2019, 06:11 PM
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If you can keep it running with your foot goosing the gas, maybe check the IACV.

The system that keeps the idling smooth.
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Old 01-07-2019, 06:33 PM
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Update

Seems to have been a one time deal.I wear a prothesetic leg and my stump is infected so I am dependent on my wifeís non mechanical feed back because itís many steps to the garage.Think Iíll have her buy a can of Seafoam and throw it in.Have had good success with that stuff on small engines tho I am usually not a big additive believer.
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Old 01-07-2019, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Frank50e View Post
Seems to have been a one time deal.I wear a prothesetic leg and my stump is infected so I am dependent on my wifeís non mechanical feed back because itís many steps to the garage.Think Iíll have her buy a can of Seafoam and throw it in.Have had good success with that stuff on small engines tho I am usually not a big additive believer.

​​​​​​Frank,now I understand why you have several issues with your car.

The others have mentioned the iacv. Yes, that unit probably needs to be cleaned and serviced.
There are passages in there which a measured amount of air passes through so that the car can idle. The passages become smaller over time as crud collects in them. Kinda like blocked arteries in a human. So lack of air flow will eventually lead to stalling.
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Old 01-07-2019, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Frank50e View Post
Seems to have been a one time deal.I wear a prothesetic leg and my stump is infected so I am dependent on my wifeís non mechanical feed back because itís many steps to the garage.Think Iíll have her buy a can of Seafoam and throw it in.Have had good success with that stuff on small engines tho I am usually not a big additive believer.
My best to you on all fronts! Get better soon!
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Old 01-16-2019, 12:01 PM
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I have essentially the exact same issue but for a 1996, automatic.

CEL for one upstream 02 sensor.

When the car is cold it starts instantly and also instantly dies unless I touch the gas a bit before it dies.
Once I've 'caught it' it seems to do a normal 'cold idle' of around 1000 rpm until I put it into drive. Then for the first 2-3 minutes of driving when I come to a stop it idles initially around 400 rpm, then slowly over about 5 seconds rising to 700 rpm. After the first 2-3 minutes of driving it idles normally at 700 rpm at all times when I stop, and if was to turn off the car and start it again it would run properly.

So in a nutshell, stalls instantly and has low idle when cold.
Starts and idles normally once the car has been driven a few minutes.

I'm going to replace the 02 sensor this week, and I tested the temperature sensor and it's good.
Would you suggest cleaning the IACV for me as well?

Thanks
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Old 01-16-2019, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by DizzyEdge View Post
I have essentially the exact same issue but for a 1996, automatic.

CEL for one upstream 02 sensor.

When the car is cold it starts instantly and also instantly dies unless I touch the gas a bit before it dies.
Once I've 'caught it' it seems to do a normal 'cold idle' of around 1000 rpm until I put it into drive. Then for the first 2-3 minutes of driving when I come to a stop it idles initially around 400 rpm, then slowly over about 5 seconds rising to 700 rpm. After the first 2-3 minutes of driving it idles normally at 700 rpm at all times when I stop, and if was to turn off the car and start it again it would run properly.

So in a nutshell, stalls instantly and has low idle when cold.
Starts and idles normally once the car has been driven a few minutes.

I'm going to replace the 02 sensor this week, and I tested the temperature sensor and it's good.
Would you suggest cleaning the IACV for me as well?

Thanks
The purpose of the iacv is to provide a regulated amount of air so that the engine can idle. If it does not want to idle, but runs OK at higher rpm, suspect iacv issue. Low rpm indicate's crud in the iacv internal passages. Not enough air flow.

Throttle body deposits can also cause this issue.

I've driven with oxy sensor related codes for over a year. Mine idled just fine. It did not have good gas mileage though.
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Old 02-19-2019, 08:34 AM
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Just as an update, my issue was fixed. The issue is the fast idle plunger which moves in and out depending on coolant temperature, apparently this actually functions using a wax pellet within the part which eventually can wear out. Once replaced the idle speed is rock solid after start with no drop at all. Expensive part though, ~$200 USD.
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Old 02-19-2019, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by DizzyEdge View Post
Just as an update, my issue was fixed. The issue is the fast idle plunger which moves in and out depending on coolant temperature, apparently this actually functions using a wax pellet within the part which eventually can wear out. Once replaced the idle speed is rock solid after start with no drop at all. Expensive part though, ~$200 USD.
Thanks for the update.

Others will learn from your comment someday.
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Old 02-19-2019, 02:01 PM
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I bet those wax idle parts will become hard to get someday -- before we want it.

Last edited by CS_AR; 02-20-2019 at 04:57 AM.
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Old 02-19-2019, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by CS_AR View Post
I bet those wax idle parts will become hard to get someday before we want it.
​​​​​​
Hmmm......... must go forage in a junk yard soon.

I understand that the iacv for the Nissan Hardbody trucks of the late 1980s through mid 90s have become scarce.

Thanks for the reminder.
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