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New MAF new Crank Sensor, but CEL comes back on after being cleared
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/maxima....a482d609d.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/maxima....ad68de791.jpeg So I this car will not rev pas 3500rpm, and when it gets close that range, it sounds like there’s gravel in the engine lol. I had been getting codes for a bad MAF and crankshaft sensor (p0100 and p1335 respectively), so I bought both sensors, replaced them, and still the same issue. Used the scanner to clear the codes, but the light came back on about 5 secs after starting the engine. I’ve cleaned the egr tube and iacv recently in case anyone thought that might be the problem. I scanned the car again today and still the same MAF and Crank codes. I’m not sure at this point what the next step is. |
Clean the MAF harness connector with electrical connector cleaner. Plug the MAF connector in till it clicks. Do this at least 3 times consecutively ... make sure it clicks. Did you replace both crank sensors? Your scanner says that the REF circuit is the fault. Did you replace the REF or the POS sensor? |
I replaced the sensor on the front on the engine under the pulley. Thanks for the advice I’ll give that a try! |
Originally Posted by Turbobink
(Post 9194817)
Clean the MAF harness connector with electrical connector cleaner. Plug the MAF connector in till it clicks. Do this at least 3 times consecutively ... make sure it clicks. Did you replace both crank sensors? Your scanner says that the REF circuit is the fault. Did you replace the REF or the POS sensor? |
Originally Posted by TonyStert
(Post 9194821)
i cleaned the harness as best I could but my connector doesn’t click the way it should (unless the release is pressed in and then its inserted) and can be pulled loose easily. Could this be the issue? It seems like it’s reading the MAF though as when I unplug the maf harness the car sputters and almost dies. |
Originally Posted by JvG
(Post 9194823)
Of course. The connector will have intermittent contact. If you hit a bump, or corner quickly, the electrical connection will come and go.
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Did you replace these items with OE Nissan units?
If not, and if you've still got the original crank sensor, clean it up (including the connector plug-in) and reinstall it ... see if that makes any difference as far as the P1335 code goes. Do the same for the MAF. |
Originally Posted by Turbobink
(Post 9194841)
Did you replace these items with OE Nissan units?
If not, and if you've still got the original crank sensor, clean it up (including the connector plug-in) and reinstall it ... see if that makes any difference as far as the P1335 code goes. Do the same for the MAF. |
Originally Posted by TonyStert
(Post 9194916)
will do this weekend thank you!
That being the case, what brand(s) are the replacements and/or where did purchase them from? |
Originally Posted by Turbobink
(Post 9194930)
Based on this response, I'm going to assume that the crank sensors and the MAF were replaced with aftermarket parts.
That being the case, what brand(s) are the replacements and/or where did purchase them from? |
Originally Posted by TonyStert
(Post 9195268)
yup, I work full time and go to school, and school isn’t cheap so I’m ballin on a budget. Can’t afford OEM, and the aftermarket is a decent alternative. I know some folks don’t like the aftermarket stuff but I usually have success. If not then I’ll return it. Not sure the brand, from China no doubt. If these don’t work I’ll head to the salvage yard in Burlington one weekend. I live only a couple of miles from school and work so I only put about 20 miles on the car a week as of now. Hopefully I’ll get it figured out soon. Thanks for the help!
My point was more that some aftermarket sensors, depending on the brand, can be problematic right outta the box. Many, including me, have had good luck with sensors from SMP (Standard Motor Products) in their Intermotor line, if you'd like to try those out. I running Intermotor crank and cam sensors right now with no issues. They're readily available at most local parts retailers. |
Originally Posted by Turbobink
(Post 9195290)
I wasn't meaning to sound judgy ... apologies if I did.
My point was more that some aftermarket sensors, depending on the brand, can be problematic right outta the box. Many, including me, have had good luck with sensors from SMP (Standard Motor Products) in their Intermotor line, if you'd like to try those out. I running Intermotor crank and cam sensors right now with no issues. They're readily available at most local parts retailers. |
Yeah I buy autozone coils and I think that might make me an outcast :D But the car keeps runnin! It keeps runnin! Work and back baby!
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Originally Posted by Shrout1
(Post 9195327)
Yeah I buy autozone coils and I think that might make me an outcast :D But the car keeps runnin! It keeps runnin! Work and back baby!
Thanks for reporting. I hope your success will last. |
Originally Posted by JvG
(Post 9195359)
Thanks for reporting. I hope your success will last.
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I’m about ready to give up and punt this thing. I changed the air box to a CAI and now the car surges at idle, and when driving it dies anytime you hit the brakes. I tried putting the old box and maf on and it does the same thing. I even changed the wiring harness connector. When the maf is unplugged it idles fine but as soon as you hit the gas it dies. It ran like crap before but at least it got me to school and work. I tested the maf connector as well and it was showing 11.7v. I am bummed out badly right now, as I really need my car and it would be a major financial hit to have to buy another. Any help would be appreciated, but I must say I have little hope at this point. |
Originally Posted by TonyStert
(Post 9197149)
I’m about ready to give up and punt this thing. I changed the air box to a CAI and now the car surges at idle, and when driving it dies anytime you hit the brakes. I tried putting the old box and maf on and it does the same thing. I even changed the wiring harness connector. When the maf is unplugged it idles fine but as soon as you hit the gas it dies. It ran like crap before but at least it got me to school and work. I tested the maf connector as well and it was showing 11.7v. I am bummed out badly right now, as I really need my car and it would be a major financial hit to have to buy another. Any help would be appreciated, but I must say I have little hope at this point. |
Just go to a salvage yard and pick up a used OEM MAF. You can tell by the Nissan label on the MAF if it is OEM. If I can find two good looking (kept in the dry) used OEM MAFS at a salvage yard, I buy both. Usually one is bad and I return it. Since the MAF is easy to change, just replace it on the salvage yard parking lot and return it on the spot if it doesn't fix the problem. When I clean a MAF I usually let it sit for a few hours before using it.
It is interesting the see the number of 4th gens in Salvage yards with aftermarket MAFs and evap lines that are full of charcoal. I think those two items are responsible for sending many 4th gens to the crusher. |
Originally Posted by CS_AR
(Post 9197188)
Just go to a salvage yard and pick up a used OEM MAF. You can tell by the Nissan label on the MAF if it is OEM. If I can find two good looking (kept in the dry) used OEM MAFS at a salvage yard, I buy both. Usually one is bad and I return it. Since the MAF is easy to change, just replace it on the salvage yard parking lot and return it on the spot if it doesn't fix the problem. When I clean a MAF I usually let it sit for a few hours before using it.
It is interesting the see the number of 4th gens in Salvage yards with aftermarket MAFs and evap lines that are full of charcoal. I think those two items are responsible for sending many 4th gens to the crusher. |
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