What year is your Max? I think it's for a 95 - 96.

Just know they need to be gingerly goosed to the right setting for the results you want. If that is what's causing the problem. Some do it with a DMM and others by trial and error incremental adjustments.

If the TPS doesn't fix it, EGR valve system or MAF are the next two things I'd look into. In that order.

Little smoke? Did you replace the PCV Valve and Grommet when in there? What color and what smell?

If any of the injectors are leaking, there's ways to tell for sure. Research the best way to diagnose that. Doesn't cost anything. But if that were the case, you'd have rough idle always AND the smell of gas permeating everywhere the longer it runs. Be careful if these are happening. You can total the engine quickly if run too long.

Check the fuel pressure asap. Throw on a new fuel filter while you're at it.

I had similar symptoms when the OEM fuel pump weakened out. It would start fine when cold but the idle was still rough. When the engine warmed up the hesitation got worse and I couldn't start it when the engine was warm. Had to give the weak fuel pump time to recover before starting up again.

What killed the OEM fuel pump was the FPR vacuum hose leak. With a vacuum hose leak the diaphragm couldn't open enough to allow for the correct AFR. This caused the engine to first run lean. To compensate for the lean mixture the ECU got the fuel pump working overtime.

so, after researching on teh interwebz i found this and it confirms my theory and belief of my latest problem and suspision of the tps being bad with no codes.

• An unexplainable bucking and jerking in the vehicle.
  • Sudden idle surges.
    • Sudden engine stalling without any apparent reason.
      • Hesitation while accelerating.
        • Sudden surges in speed while driving on the highway.
          • Intermittently flashing of check engine light for no apparent reason.
          • the bucking and jerking under load is my issue, and stalling after she warms up
        • someone have a part number for the tps, i'm getting conflicting numbers because of production date which is 12/94. also, what voltage should i be at for a properly running tps? thanks

Cali or Fed emissions?

Here's the two part numbers that apply to a 95 Maxima. If you're not sure what you have, add a different vehicle and use your VIN number and they'll tell you: https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/oem-...odel=&Filter=()

Voltage reading should be between 0.3 and 0.7 volts (around the 4:45 mark in the below video)

its actually California emissions and the part # is 22620-31U15 and that link want's 140.00, that's shipped, but still ridiculous imo. anyone else know where to get oem on this for under $100.00?? rock auto has it for about 96.00 bucks shipped, but it's ntk, not sure if i trust anything but oem on this, someone prove me wrong, thanks

Why not go to a junk yard and get a couple of these.

You are just guessing that the tps is the issue.

Firing the parts cannon gets expensive after a while.

Try a couple of used ones. The chance that both them are bad is unlikely.

If you don't have any Pick a part Junk Yards selling this cheap, RockAuto has the Standard Motor TH325. I wouldn't think twice about Standard. It's on Par with OEM. Some say for the TPS, Beck Arnley is also. BUt Standard surely is. Around $84 plus shipping. Carid has it there too. So see who has the lowest delivered price. Search for a Standard TH325 using Google and see what that finds.

If it helps I bought the Beck Arnley one and it came in a Nissan box inside the Beck Arnley box ( you can see the photo on Rockauto shows the Nissan logo molded into the part)

The Beck Arnley is $68 plus shipping. It is definitely for Auto Transmissions and Cali emissions. Looks like a different model might be indicated for manual transmissions. Research if you don't have Auto. And Nissan is stamped right on the TPS.

I had a similar issue with my 95 Maxima SE (101K miles) bucking under load. Though mine did have a misfire and was throwing P0300 and P0305 codes. Fuel pressure tested fine so I decided to replace all the injectors ($120 for a remanufactured set on eBay), since I also needed to pull off the UIM to replace leaking valve cover gaskets.

The “new” injectors (plus a set NGK platinum plugs) cleared the codes, but the car still misfired and bucked badly under any kind of load. Finally threw a P1320 indicating an ignition problem. I had changed the coils (Spectra Premium) about 3 years ago and a resistance test showed everything within spec, so figured it was probably the ignition condenser or the two crank sensors. Replaced all those but no luck.

Was getting frustrated and stumbled upon a cheap kit (Tool Aid 23970) on Amazon for testing coils. Tested each cylinder one-by-one and it turned out to be the ignition coil on the number 5 cylinder was going bad, as the spark from the test light was barely perceptible. Got a replacement coil, popped it in and no more misfire or bucking.

Not sure if this is the OPs issue, but after spending the better part of 3 months trying to track it down, thought I would share my experience and solution if it might help someone save some time and/or money.

i got the beck arnley one from rock auto, under 80.00 and it was stamped nissan in the picture so wth. there's no way that my original tps that is 24+ years old with 293,000 is not ready to be replaced. i've done a $hit ton of research on this, and just think of all the cool magnets i've gotten from rock auto and all the mula they've saved me :doublethu and jvg, it's not called a money pit for nothing, with all the rain i can't even go out and test the damn thing so i'm almost there. i really don't want another old part that might fail in a few months and then i have to replace it again. i hear what your saying, at this point i'm just don't feel like wasting any more time on guessing with used parts. especially when i'm so rich. :hahano:

The only one who's calling these cars a money pit is you, that's because you're firing the parts cannon at it which is a ludicrous approach to fixing a car problem, like your statement above that says because you read online that TPS issues match the symptoms you're having you just "confirmed" that's what it is LOL.
I actually DO hope the new TPS sensor fixes it because I don't wish ill will or frustration on anyone but dude your approach to fixing this issue is completely bonkers.

dude, i was basically joking with jvg. you don't know what i've done to the car, i've tested and checked everything 50 times and have never been so frustrated with a car in my life. i do test and check/clean parts before replacing them, but with no codes and the cars age, you have to go with whatever information on the issue you can find. kthxbye

Maxride....

I'm commiserating with you just a bit.

I have replaced my injectors, cleaned the egr tube etc a few years ago. I did not change the valve cover gaskets at the time, because they did not leak.
So..... of course I smelled burning oil recently. I noticed that my oil consumption was down from 7k per quart to less than 1k.

So I removed the uim recently. I carefully reassembled everthing The car ran just fine. It set a cel immediately. Hmm.... so I used my trusty BAFX scanner. No codes it said... while the cel light glowed brightly. Darn.

I found an old Actron code reader. It found codes for the oxygen sensor near the firewall. It was replaced when I had the uim off the previous time.

I noticed that the oxygen sensor connector was not shoved in to its socket all the way. So I reconnect that. No more problems.

So sometimes I also make some errors which keep me humble.

if had my own lift and a garage, that would help because it's hard trying to work on the car outside all the time and i'm not a mechanic. i do the best i can with what i got. i am going to check grounds when i replace the tps, maybe go through and check all other connections. but the longer this car sits, the more it seems like she wants to be stubborn and not run right. still smoking, no gas smell so i think its blow by oil, but when i drive her around for a few minutes the smoke dissapears. i'm wondering if people just skip over to the most recent post and just post a comment, hmmmmmm......

Considering the amount of miles you have, all parts replaced can be considered maintenance so it still comes out good in the end even if it wasn't the problem, IMO. . Regarding the smoke, is it burning oil? If so, (can't remember if it was on your list of replaced items) was the pcv valve ever checked?

Looks like you are mocking me.

I dont appreciate that.

So it seems like you are suspecting internal oil leaks.

1. Does your car leak on to the ground significantly.
2. If not, how many miles per quart do you get.

Does your car blow smoke if you decelerate while the throttle is closed. If so, is it worse while on a steep hill in low gear.

Do your plugs show oil deposits. Why do you suspect the engine it's self now ?

By the way. I'm not a mechanic either.
I did sales and office work.

Car repair has been a necessary hobby since 1971.

Remember when startup smoke usually meant valve guides let oil pass. Ahhhh, the old days. SO much simpler.

Never heard anybody have that problem on the VQs.

I get the necessity J. Sad but true. Especially when a mechanics hour is between $95 and $135 an hour here.

KP, seems that you are familiar with the valve seal and valve guide test.

I havnt read about high oil consumption being much of an issue, but I'm asking these questions so that we can assume the real issue is something else.

no, but it smells more like oil now, oil level is fine and the pcv was replaced with new seal. she leaks very little oil, especially after replacing plenum gaskets and valve gasket. i haven't pulled the plugs since we replaced them 2 weeks ago with new ones, they were always black. somebody please tell me what is causing that, smoke in the morning, hesitation and bucking after warming up followed up with stalling. drop in neutral and wait a minute or less and she starts right back up and gets me home. it's like she knows where i live. :wftlol:

Black plugs with fluffy deposits indicate over fueling. Black greasy ones mean burning oil.

I'm thinking that's it's running rich all the
time. Now add the added even richer mixture the iacv provides when it's cold. You would get black plugs, a gas smell when cold, and smoke when cold.

if I haven't asked before.... do you have a scanner. I use one I bought on Amazon for about 20 bucks. it works with my phone. It's BAFX brand. Please buy one, then get back to us.

What I'm curious about is your short-term fuel trim..it will probably read rich as flock. the engine vacuum will probably read low. I feel that the engine is compensating for a vaccuum leak somewhere. Surging goes along with this.

The BAFX scanner I want you to get will confirm this condition immediately if I'm on the right track.
A friend of mine complained about bad gas mileage.
The scanner showed a rich mixture. The culprit was a bad intake manifold gasket. It was the source of a vaccuum leak. There were no codes.

He has a scanner, but thanks for reminding me. I used an app called Car Scanner, and it was the only one I tried that told me pending codes when the CEL was off.

For example, notice the MIL:OFF but DTC count: 2

Attachment 59255 Attachment 59256

I would highly recommend trying the free version of the app to see if you have pending codes that don't happen often enough to trigger the CEL.

This is the Google Play link
https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...ovz.carscanner

And for iphones https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/car-...259933623?mt=8

Dizzyedge,

I use the basic program which the BAFX scanner comes with. I don't have the additional download.
I'm pretty new to this myself.

I think that the short term fuel trim number will be informative.

JvG recommended the BAFX scanner and that got me started. I ultimately went with BlueDriver in case I switch to an I-Phone and has more App capabilities (for newer cars especially)

In retrospect, I really should have made a real commitment and bought a Zurich at HF with ABS/SRS/Fix Assist.

But if you're on a Low Budget, Can't beat what JvG recommends, the BAFX scanner reader.

There.... I said it!

The 22 dollar BAFX scanner is available in both Android and Apple versions.

Yeah the scanner I have was about $20, what I just found what the first 4 or so apps I used with it never showed pending codes, only the ones that had illuminated the CEL. That "Car Scanner" one was the first that showed pending. But of course if Max_Ride_41 already has an app that shows pending that's great.

We'll have to compare Fuel Trim Levels soon!!!!!! Yes we are Fossil GEEKS!

But I like it that way! LOL

Mine runs about zero most of the time.
That indicates that everything is working properly.

I have a Toyota Corolla with issues. It adds 20 percent more fuel. It smokes like Maxrides.

so, i go to buy the bafx scan tool and stupid ebay screwed up and gave me another crap plug in scanner. i told the seller i didn't want it and asked for a refund, any place else i can get this and i already have a an amazon plug in 8 y/o scanner, thanks

$12 when Amazon has lightning deals....that's how I got mine.

Damn, I'm never that lucky! 45% off. That's something to sink yer teeth into!

i'm assuming this will work on my 95, correct? it says 96 or newer, my amazon scanner said the same when i bought it i think.

It's an OBD 2 scanner.

The 1995 model year is also OBD-2.

i know it is compatible, but the one thing that is different from a 96 or newer is that it is not fully compatible. for instance, the exhaust will not read. i need a tailpipe test for emissions, etc.

I don't know the answer.

Call and/or email the manufacturer if you want the answer right from the horses mouth!

Wilburrrrrrrr! (Mr Ed)

Thinking about getting one of these! What is your preferred 3rd party app to use with this scan tool? Thx

It comes with a pretty good set of apps already built in. Easy to understand.

There are instructions regarding where to get a more extensive set for just a few bucks. Those instructions come with the scanner.