Will92

Hi all:
Does anyone have or know of a write-up about how to change the front struts/springs without messing with a coil compressor - ie just buying the complete assembly? I noticed my front passenger side is badly leaking and the boot cover has been broken for some time now. The first of two links in the How To's was broken and I'm not finding any detailed write-ups using the search function. I'm trying to decide to attempt this myself or pay someone to do it.

JvG

Look on you tube.

also look up

Monroe quick struts.

other companies have similar stuff.

you want a good brand.

cheap struts on ebay don't last too long.

wait for other members to offer suggestions.

I haven't replaced the struts on my maxima yet, but have on other cars. It's not that difficult .

I have also used a spring compressor to replace only the strut. It's not that difficult either. But there is some risk involved.

CRiME

iTrader: (21)

All four of my monroe quick struts began to make creaking and knocking noises after 3 years / 3,000 miles. The car wasn't even being used much. I wouldn't recommend those.

I took the chance on SenSen "speedy strut" assemblies and have been very, very pleased with the results. Apparently SenSen is the OEM supplier for VW and others. The ride is firm but not jarring - it reminds me of the ride given by KYB GR2's. The best part is, the SenSen assemblies were extremely cheap - The fronts were $35 each on RockAuto. I was able to find the rears on Amazon for $32 shipped. I definitely recommend them.

This is definitely something that you should at least attempt yourself. As JvG wrote, videos can be found on YouTube. For the front, it's basically three strut tower bolts at the top, and two bolts at the bottom connecting the strut to the knuckle. If you have an impact driver, it makes it that much easier.

While you are in there, I recommend checking your swaybar end links and bushings.

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

If you're purchasing a strut "assembly" there's truly no R&R write up needed.

It's quite straight-forward and install is simply the reverse of removal.

It's removal and re-installation of 6 nuts (3 at each strut tower) in the e-compartment and removal and re-installation of 4 bolts (2 at each strut base) with the removal and re-installation of the brake line retainers on each strut.

That's really it ...

maximaxi

Quick struts are awesome!

One piece of advice, for the top three nuts, put them on, but not all the way, at first. Do the final torque of those three nuts with the wheels on the ground.

Will92

Thanks all. Well further investigation has revealed it is not the strut leaking but rather failure of the outer boot!

Does anyone know if replacement entails draining the manual transmission fluid? Should any other parts be inspected/addressed at this time? This looks like it is going to be dealer job.

JvG

Some questions:

do you live in an area where road salt is used

are you experiencing vibration yet

how many miles a year do you drive the car

what are your plans got the car

do you anticipate doing additional fronthe end work, such as replacing the struts soon


This is one of those things which you might be able to put off for a while, or for a long time. Or at least till the working conditions improve next spring or summer. I wouldn't like to do front end work in winter weather.

replacing the strut could be combined with replacing the drive shaft, or its boot. It's one of those "while you are in there anyway, you might as well" situations.

Will92

Thanks JvG. You're a great resource. I've owned this car since new and have been on this board since its inception in the 90's although I had to re-register at some point as I think something happened with the site years ago so my join date isn't reflected in my profile! In answer to your questions, I'm in Colorado so road salt and also liquid deicers are used but I minimize winter driving and when I do drive under those conditions, I am very careful about doing a thorough undercarriage wash. The body and undercarriage, as a result, are in spectacular condition. I have no plans on getting rid of the car. It only has 78k miles on it and is in near-mint condition. I probably drive 3-5k miles a year. Like many here, the car is worth way more to keep than to sell. I think the blue book value is probably like $2000 to 2500 but could you even find something comparable for 20-25k these days?

I am not experiencing vibration. This boot split must have happened in the past 8 months or so as it is on the passenger front side and, as you know, that's where the oil filter is. I turn the wheel to the right to do that job and always inspect that boot. It has had some cracking, but none that have penetrated all the way through until some time recently. I think this is a job that should be done pretty quickly. The spinning axle and whatever other components inside that boot are flinging grease like crazy in that wheel well. The whole backside of my alloy wheel is really coated with that grease which has now attracted sand etc.

I was asking about if this job entails pulling the axle from the transmission as I wanted to change my MT transmission oil with MT90 this break. Do you know? I'm not sure what to say about the struts. I have noticed that all four of those open-ended accordion-style boots on the struts have split quite some time ago exposing them to rainwater, occasional salt etc. If those two large bolts holding the strut to the wheel have to be removed for this job, as I think they do from some youtube videos, it might be a good time to do the struts although since I originally posted I have learned that KYB only makes the replacement struts but Monroe makes the whole strut/spring assembly. This is a bit of a quandry for me - I don't know which route to choose here as I want to believe those original Nissan coil springs are top end and might be worth retaining in the strut-only approach, however maybe they have experienced some fatigue and compression??

Finally, is this a good time to think about a replacement wheel bearing? I have already had the driver side done by Nissan a few years ago. It was definitely making some noise when turning but I have also read that if your wheel bearings are fine, let them go.

This looks like this is adding up to a dealer job. I've always done my own oil changes, radiator service, spark plugs, but attempting this job, especially if I go the strut-only route and retain the springs, is beyond the time I have available right now. I've saved a lot over the years and so I don't necessarily have a problem applying those savings at these times. At least it is worth a quote from my dealer.

Thanks again for your detailed reply.

JvG

Seems that you could probably put the repair off till spring. The leaking joint is making a mess, and the cv joint is getting chewed up some. But the car is still perfectly drivable till spring. I'd put the work off. So all 4 boots have cracked and will fail sooner or later. The drive shafts will need to be removed, so don't change the tranmission oil till that happens . You mentioned MT oil. Do you use Redline like I do?

Are you willing to do this job yourself once the weather improves? You would save a lot of money if you do.

Might as well get an estimate. I imagine that an independent repair shop would charge less than the dealer. Have the struts inspected. They are low mileage, but are original. They might be good, or perhaps not.

I have used a spring compressor to rebuild strut before. Its a bit of a challenge, but you get pick and choose all the best parts such as tge strut and bearing. Your local auto parts store will rent the tool.

You could replace the drive shafts with rebuilt ones, but your cv joints are probably in better condition than those. I have rebuilt and greased cv joints and replaced the boots. In an old vw 411 many years ago. It's a messy time consuming job.
This would make sense if you do your own work.
But would cost more than a rebuilt drive shaft if a shop did the work.

Replacing the wheel bearing is optional. Most members don't mention them much. However, the drive shafts go through them. So it's one of those things that's easy to do when the shafts are out.

My car has 220k on it. The used car dealer I bought it from at 100k miles had the front end parts replaced just before I got it. I live in Portland . No road salt here. My car's suspension is still good.
I keep driving the car because it does everything I want, is nearly worthless, and would cost a lot to replace.

Will92

Thanks JvG,
I've got two dealers working up estimates and will take it from there. One thinks an OEM axle might still be available so it will be interesting to compare cost of that vs. the R&R of the existing axle/boot. I'm definitely partial to retaining the original components unless worn, or go with genuine Nissan parts, and leave third party retrofit parts as a last choice.

Regarding the transmission oil, I've actually still got the original fluid in mine. I couldn't find a spec for replacement in my factory service manual but figured it wouldn't hurt. I plan on using Redline MT90 and did a lot of research on it. The car specifies 80W-90 GL4 which seems impossible to find and the good folks at Redline assure me their MT90 75W-90 will work just find.

You're lucky you have no road salt in your area. It isn't too bad here like in the rust belt, but Colorado does use it to some extent. They use this combination salt/gravel mixture along with liquid deicer. The stuff does work but the liquid deicer in particular leaves an almost oily film on the paint. I'm diligent about keeping the cars waxed as well as the undercarriage washes I mentioned above.

Thanks for the input.

JvG

I've used the same Redline oil. Good stuff. The car shifts more smoothly at low temperatures. By low , I mean 10f above 0. That's as cold as it gets here.
You should notice the difference in your colder winters.

I grew up in Salt Lake City. I know what road salt did to my 1960s cars there. They scoop the salt from the salt flats near the Great Salt Lake. Then they spread salt freely on the roads. No problem , since all the water and sewage drains back into the lake.

I moved to Portland 40 years ago. Every nut and bolt on my car is as easy to remove as when it was built in 1996.

Will92

Hi all. Has anyone used Nissan Value Advantage parts? I got a quote from Nissan on the inner and outer boot replacement and although they can't get the original OEM Nissan axle complete with boots, they can get the Value Advantage one. Cost to go the Value Advantage axle route is about 400 P&L vs. 440 for reusing my existing axle and new Nissan boots. So, yes, more expensive to rebuild the one I've. I'm usually one for all new, and the "plug and play" benefit of the entire axle seems like a plus, but I've always thought these Value Advantage parts were just that - value parts. The dealer didn't know where they are coming from and I specifically asked about China. My only experience was with a Value Advantage air filter and I thought it was definitely inferior to the OEM ones I've always used so I took it back and exchanged it. With 78k miles on my OEM axle, I'm inclined to go with the rebuilt route unless they find something damaged when they take it apart. Thoughts?
https://partsadvantage.nissanusa.com...tion-Guide.pdf

KP11520

Man, you're going to get bent over going all OEM at the Nissan Dealer Service Department. And the Advantage struts aren't equal to the original OEM. And that means still way too expensive.

As far as strut assemblies go, Monroe, KYB and Moog all sucked. Then I used the OEM springs and Koni STR-T struts with all the rest OEM parts for the SE model and got incredible results. super quiet again and better handling. I bought a Spring Compressor at Home Depot (online) for $40 and it worked fine.Me doing them and buying the parts was approaching $850 with everything at the best price. Nissan will rape you with their markup and labor. And their parts are really the only ones (except the struts and springs) that will get long lasting and best results.

And they will rape you on the CV axles too. When you can buy both sides for $141 plus shipping using SurTrack CV Axles (new) https://www.carid.com/1999-nissan-ma...-63085620.html

If you do new Lower Control Arm assemblies and Sway Bar bushings and end links too, it will be a new front end. NICE!

But save HUGE dollars and do it yourself.

Will92

Hi all;
What is the board's opinion of Nissan Value Advantage parts? My understanding is that they are an economy and inferior version of Nissan OEM parts. I'm asking because my quotes are in from the dealers. Just replacing both inner and outer boots and reusing my OEM axle is about $460 P&L and the Value Advantage route is $390. (OEM axle not available). Yes, the Value Advantage route is cheaper on account of less labor as it is more of a "plug and play" job, but I'm inclined to think I would be better off retaining that OEM axle despite the parts fellow telling me Value Advantage is great and they use them for 90+% of parts in the shop but, at the same time, he couldn't tell me who is making them or where they are made. I even asked if they're coming from China and he didn't know. The chart on page 3 of this pdf below doesn't make me too excited about Value Advantage.
https://partsadvantage.nissanusa.com...tion-Guide.pdf

KP11520, any thoughts on Value Advantage vs. your SunTrack/TrakMotive recommendation and just rebuilding my OEM axle?

KP11520

There used to be a place called Raxles that rebuilt our OEM CV axles to OEM specs for a reasonable price.. Now they don't

If the dealer will rebuild yours INCLUDING the CV joints and not just regrease the old and new boots, maybe it might be worth paying that if it includes labor and everything. If just boots and new grease, who knows when they will fail?

Two new SurTrack CV axles for $141 and you remove and replace, and you'll be starting with everything new. Wonh industries in China seem to be building the best Chinese axles available. I wonder if the advantage CV axles are just rebranded SurTrack Wonh Industries.

Will92

Thanks. I should have clarified. I'm pretty sure the quote was to limit the rebuild to scraping out as much grease as possible, and loading in the new grease from the supplied cartridge they said comes with the Nissan boots. The car only has 78k miles on it (bought new) so I would venture a guess the CV joints are in good shape and that even with the split in the boot and the grease being slung out, the remaining grease would be protecting them from water and dirt and I would hope they technician could at least perform a cursory glance/inspection of them at the time. But this is a good point so thanks for that. I should inquire about adding new CV joints to the job to see what that would add.

98maxBK

I too experimented with the SENSEN's, regrettably. Ride was extremely firm, not for everyone. Kept trying to convince myself they weren't that bad...until 1st strut mount bushing completely ripped 1 yr/ approx. 15k miles in. Free replacement, no big deal, they sent whole new assembly and i put them in myself so no labor. Then the other side mount went, less than 2 yrs and 25ish k miles in. Granted i drive on awful NYC roads, but to me they are not worth is even if i got them free. Bad ride and bad quality. I can't be doing struts every year.

Alex_

Re-guarding your struts I am also looking at replacing mine, 160k and I think doing a replace of the 2 front struts, and 2 shocks in the back might take care of a few 'problems' that i've always had. Currently i'm down to either the oredy or WIN-2X found on Amazon. Oredy can be had for 240 if bought both packages, where WIN-2x has both front and back in one purchase option for >200. The cheaper Win-2x is more appealing to me for the price and from my questions people have not had any issues with them. Btw: Anyone have opinions with Oredy vs WIN-2x or others? (both are drop in replacements)