Engine Jerks/Misses while Car Is Idling
06-26-2002, 02:21 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 7
Engine Jerks/Misses while Car Is Idling
I have a '99 Maxima GXE. About three weeks ago, while running the air conditioner and while stopped at a redlight, I noticed that the motor was "jerking" like it was either wanting to go on or wanted to die out. It never has died out on me and it runs good when it is in motion. However, while idling, it constantly has a jerk, miss or surge in the motor. I don't know the correct car terminology. All I know is my car is doing something weird that it hasn't always done. Also, it is now making the same jerking action whether the air conditioner is running or not. Occasionally, say I am driving up a hill, the motor will sort of jerk like I have described above, especially when I don't push the gas pedal down all that much.
I took it in to a local Nissan dealership this week. No computer diagnostic codes came up. They really had no clue what was causing the problem. They thought it might be dirty fuel injectors, torque converter problem, transmission problem or ignition coil problem.
They ruled out the transmission, but were still sort of puzzled.
They decided to simply do a 60,000 mile maintenance job on the car. They cleaned the fuel injectors, changed spark plugs, adjusted timing chain, changed all filters and fluids, etc. Of course, they thought the problem had been cleared up, but within an hour of driving away it came back.
Anybody else had this problem? Anyone have any guesses at to what it could be?
Shawn
P.S. I use at least 91 Octane gas always.
I took it in to a local Nissan dealership this week. No computer diagnostic codes came up. They really had no clue what was causing the problem. They thought it might be dirty fuel injectors, torque converter problem, transmission problem or ignition coil problem.
They ruled out the transmission, but were still sort of puzzled.
They decided to simply do a 60,000 mile maintenance job on the car. They cleaned the fuel injectors, changed spark plugs, adjusted timing chain, changed all filters and fluids, etc. Of course, they thought the problem had been cleared up, but within an hour of driving away it came back.
Anybody else had this problem? Anyone have any guesses at to what it could be?
Shawn
P.S. I use at least 91 Octane gas always.
07-09-2002, 12:43 AM
#4
Did they hook up a Fuel pressure gauge to your car? I am having a similiar problem though I know mine is fuel pressure related, car kinda jerks at partial throttle due to fuel pressure going up and down... 
07-09-2002, 01:56 AM
#5
I have this on my family's Auto max (my old car). Man...it's very annoying right now.
I remember though, I used to have this problem. I put in a bottle of Chevron Techron Concentrate, and stuck to the highest octane (from a dependable station) since. And it fixed the problem...
but since I've left the Max at home for a month or two, I think my dad cheaped out and filled it up with 89, or maybe Arco gasoline.
I'd tell you to search, but you've described my problem so well that I'll just let someone who knows the answer explain it.
Oh yeah, and it ISNT your throttle body. I tried cleaning that before. It's funny because you have a 99 Maxima, it should be in top condition. We have to figure out the common problem between a 96 (like mine) and a newer model, 99, like yours.
I remember though, I used to have this problem. I put in a bottle of Chevron Techron Concentrate, and stuck to the highest octane (from a dependable station) since. And it fixed the problem...
but since I've left the Max at home for a month or two, I think my dad cheaped out and filled it up with 89, or maybe Arco gasoline.
I'd tell you to search, but you've described my problem so well that I'll just let someone who knows the answer explain it.
Oh yeah, and it ISNT your throttle body. I tried cleaning that before. It's funny because you have a 99 Maxima, it should be in top condition. We have to figure out the common problem between a 96 (like mine) and a newer model, 99, like yours.
07-09-2002, 06:17 AM
#7
Try:
- Cleaning Throttle Body (can't hurt)
- Did they change the PCV valve?
- Look at IACV (idle air control valve)
- Clean or replace your air filter (do you have a CAI?)
- Check the MAF sensor
- How's the tension on the throttle cable?
I had a similar problem in a previous car and it was a clogged EGR valve, maybe a possibility?
- Cleaning Throttle Body (can't hurt)
- Did they change the PCV valve?
- Look at IACV (idle air control valve)
- Clean or replace your air filter (do you have a CAI?)
- Check the MAF sensor
- How's the tension on the throttle cable?
I had a similar problem in a previous car and it was a clogged EGR valve, maybe a possibility?
07-09-2002, 06:28 AM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,812
Originally posted by breaux124
Try:
- Cleaning Throttle Body (can't hurt)
- Did they change the PCV valve?
- Look at IACV (idle air control valve)
- Clean or replace your air filter (do you have a CAI?)
- Check the MAF sensor
- How's the tension on the throttle cable?
I had a similar problem in a previous car and it was a clogged EGR valve, maybe a possibility?
Try:
- Cleaning Throttle Body (can't hurt)
- Did they change the PCV valve?
- Look at IACV (idle air control valve)
- Clean or replace your air filter (do you have a CAI?)
- Check the MAF sensor
- How's the tension on the throttle cable?
I had a similar problem in a previous car and it was a clogged EGR valve, maybe a possibility?
And, i've done all that's above...i recently got a MAFS code...does
anyone think a vaccuum leak caused this??? I'm gonna post again...
FLO_BOY
07-09-2002, 09:36 AM
#9
Originally posted by FLO_BOY
anyone think a vaccuum leak caused this??? I'm gonna post again...
FLO_BOY
anyone think a vaccuum leak caused this??? I'm gonna post again...
FLO_BOY
07-09-2002, 12:02 PM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,812
Originally posted by Mishmosh
Certainly though, since the symptoms are so common, especially among cars as new as 99, i doubt the problem would be vacuum leaks...
Certainly though, since the symptoms are so common, especially among cars as new as 99, i doubt the problem would be vacuum leaks...
the engine is cold...and it is intermittent (although, happening more
and more now), which makes me think its a vaccuum leak, because as the
engine gets warmer, the tubes/pipes expand closing the leak...
anyone else?
FLO_BOY
07-09-2002, 12:38 PM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 110
i had a similar problem in my wifes honda
it sounds like your car has more trouble when you are putting strain on the motor (ie air conditioning or accelerating) than say at idle, my wifes honda accord had this problem and soon later you started noticing fuel smells under the hood...turned out to be fuel injectors were bad...had to replace them and the problem went away with no problems since.
07-11-2002, 01:36 PM
#12
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 7
Since I posted the first message in this thread, I have used Octane Boost once. For the first day I thought the problem had somewhat cleared up. Well, its back and worse than ever. Actually, the engine is jerking now as I am slowing down to make a turn, etc. It was only doing it while stopped and idling.
Based on everything that I have read here and in other threads, I believe that I will take my car back in and have them look at the coils. I know nothing about any of this, but, to me, that is the most logical place to start the next go round. I am going to try different gas stations in the meantime to see if that helps, but I am being realistic about that solution.
If anyone else has any suggestions or solutions, please post them as I will make sure all suggestions get attention when I take my car in to have it looked over.
Thanks
Based on everything that I have read here and in other threads, I believe that I will take my car back in and have them look at the coils. I know nothing about any of this, but, to me, that is the most logical place to start the next go round. I am going to try different gas stations in the meantime to see if that helps, but I am being realistic about that solution.
If anyone else has any suggestions or solutions, please post them as I will make sure all suggestions get attention when I take my car in to have it looked over.
Thanks
07-12-2002, 05:44 AM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 467
Try resetting the idle according to the Nissan shop manual procedures. I just did that on my '97 and have noticed an incredible difference in drivability. While doing the procedure, I disconnected the throttle position sensor as described in the manual, revved the motor to 2-3K, but couldn't get it to idle. So I had to set the idle screw way up to start with, then work my way back down to 650 RPM. Apparently my idle was set way too low and the system was trying to compensate which made the car run poorly. The last step of the procedure has you clear out the error codes in the computer AND the automatic transmission. This is a very important step as it "resets" everything and lines up the idle, computer and auto tranny. It made a HUGE difference in drivability and was FREE! It's worth a try. Don't forget the last step...it is essential to make everything work correctly! Good luck!
07-12-2002, 06:17 AM
#14
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 19
same problem w/ mazad
i have and had same promblem w/ my girl's mazad. Turns out that there was a hole or split in this tube connected to the throttle body. I don't know exactly what the tube is called, but it looks like an accordion. He put duct tape around it and it ran like new. The tube is connected to the fuel injector on the mazad. The problem i had was that the rpm would drop down and pop up when i came to a stop. it would do this until i began to drive. Then once i started driving, it would buck. But once i got rolling at high speeds, it would run fine. I started having the problem again, but just added more duct tape and it runs fine again. Let me know what you find when you inspect your tube. I'll find out the correct name of this tube and let you know.
07-12-2002, 09:14 AM
#16
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 73
Re: Engine Jerks/Misses while Car Is Idling
Try cleaning out our idle air control...mine was carbonized and cleaning it did the job..i had a problem where my car would start and jerk at times....and then sometimes would just completely shut down.....what does ur max idle at when u turn it on?.....does it jerk while u have the foot on the gas or only when ur foot is off the gas?....when i would let off the gas my RPMs would almost drop to 0 and the car almost turned off but it would jerk back up most of the time....plus have u noticed the check engine light on at all (doesnt have to be consistently on)...get back to me...i think i am right for once!!!!!
07-12-2002, 09:46 AM
#17
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,812
Re: Re: Engine Jerks/Misses while Car Is Idling
Originally posted by KGBSJU
Try cleaning out our idle air control...mine was carbonized and cleaning it did the job..i had a problem where my car would start and jerk at times....and then sometimes would just completely shut down.....what does ur max idle at when u turn it on?.....does it jerk while u have the foot on the gas or only when ur foot is off the gas?....when i would let off the gas my RPMs would almost drop to 0 and the car almost turned off but it would jerk back up most of the time....plus have u noticed the check engine light on at all (doesnt have to be consistently on)...get back to me...i think i am right for once!!!!!
Try cleaning out our idle air control...mine was carbonized and cleaning it did the job..i had a problem where my car would start and jerk at times....and then sometimes would just completely shut down.....what does ur max idle at when u turn it on?.....does it jerk while u have the foot on the gas or only when ur foot is off the gas?....when i would let off the gas my RPMs would almost drop to 0 and the car almost turned off but it would jerk back up most of the time....plus have u noticed the check engine light on at all (doesnt have to be consistently on)...get back to me...i think i am right for once!!!!!
for my situation, I already cleaned this...
FLO_BOY
07-12-2002, 11:34 AM
#18
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 142
clean your throttle body and check the spark plug boots at the ends of the ignition coils. IF they are ripped, torn or even slightly worn it can cause ignition spark to miss the spark plug. This is what was wrong with my car. Change the boots!
08-15-2002, 11:37 AM
#20
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 7
Alright, here I am again to update on my original post.
My car has been acting the same way as reported in the original message of this thread. However, last week, it started bucking or jerking while I was actually moving down the road. It would do so if I had to ease off the gas for a second. It had only been acting up while sitting in idle.
I took it in to another Nissan dealership and within a few minutes they came out and said Bad Coil pack. No question. It is causing one cylinder to misfire badly. Had to special order coil pack, so I will let you know later if this worked.
I do have some related questions on this issue:
(1) What are the disadvantages to replacing just the one coil pack at this time. They recommended changing all six at once, but I don't have the dough. Am I just causing more problems by changing the one coil pack?
(2) When this problem first started, I took car in. Dealership said 60,000 mile tune up will fix problem. It didn't, but that is another story for another time. Anyway, as part of tune up, they were supposed to replace spark plugs. Yesterday, the other dealership recommended in addition to replacing coil pack that I change spark plugs. I told them other dealership changed them less than 1,000 miles ago. They stopped short of saying the first dealership ripped me off, but hinted that is what happened.
Ok, with the bad coil pack, should those brand new spark plugs look worse for wear? Only a 1,000 miles have been put on car since new plugs were supposedly installed?
(3) Finally, first dealership had no idea what was causing the problem in my car. Second dealership found the problem in about 15 minutes. No diagnostic codes ever showed up to help them out. First dealership said there were no Technical Bulletins issued on my car that resembled my problem. Second dealership said there has been a Technical Bulletin issued on that problem on my car for awhile and that it was the first thing they checked out.
What is going on with that first dealership? Is it common for some dealerships to miss Technical Bulletins? What is difference in Technical Bulletin and a Recall Notice? Is the dealer responsible for any of the costs of repair on a Technical Bulletin?
Thanks.
My car has been acting the same way as reported in the original message of this thread. However, last week, it started bucking or jerking while I was actually moving down the road. It would do so if I had to ease off the gas for a second. It had only been acting up while sitting in idle.
I took it in to another Nissan dealership and within a few minutes they came out and said Bad Coil pack. No question. It is causing one cylinder to misfire badly. Had to special order coil pack, so I will let you know later if this worked.
I do have some related questions on this issue:
(1) What are the disadvantages to replacing just the one coil pack at this time. They recommended changing all six at once, but I don't have the dough. Am I just causing more problems by changing the one coil pack?
(2) When this problem first started, I took car in. Dealership said 60,000 mile tune up will fix problem. It didn't, but that is another story for another time. Anyway, as part of tune up, they were supposed to replace spark plugs. Yesterday, the other dealership recommended in addition to replacing coil pack that I change spark plugs. I told them other dealership changed them less than 1,000 miles ago. They stopped short of saying the first dealership ripped me off, but hinted that is what happened.
Ok, with the bad coil pack, should those brand new spark plugs look worse for wear? Only a 1,000 miles have been put on car since new plugs were supposedly installed?
(3) Finally, first dealership had no idea what was causing the problem in my car. Second dealership found the problem in about 15 minutes. No diagnostic codes ever showed up to help them out. First dealership said there were no Technical Bulletins issued on my car that resembled my problem. Second dealership said there has been a Technical Bulletin issued on that problem on my car for awhile and that it was the first thing they checked out.
What is going on with that first dealership? Is it common for some dealerships to miss Technical Bulletins? What is difference in Technical Bulletin and a Recall Notice? Is the dealer responsible for any of the costs of repair on a Technical Bulletin?
Thanks.
08-15-2002, 02:34 PM
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 5,809
Re: Engine Jerks/Misses while Car Is Idling
Originally posted by SLHines
I have a '99 Maxima GXE. About three weeks ago, while running the air conditioner and while stopped at a redlight, I noticed that the motor was "jerking" like it was either wanting to go on or wanted to die out. It never has died out on me and it runs good when it is in motion. However, while idling, it constantly has a jerk, miss or surge in the motor. I don't know the correct car terminology. All I know is my car is doing something weird that it hasn't always done. Also, it is now making the same jerking action whether the air conditioner is running or not. Occasionally, say I am driving up a hill, the motor will sort of jerk like I have described above, especially when I don't push the gas pedal down all that much.
I took it in to a local Nissan dealership this week. No computer diagnostic codes came up. They really had no clue what was causing the problem. They thought it might be dirty fuel injectors, torque converter problem, transmission problem or ignition coil problem.
They ruled out the transmission, but were still sort of puzzled.
They decided to simply do a 60,000 mile maintenance job on the car. They cleaned the fuel injectors, changed spark plugs, adjusted timing chain, changed all filters and fluids, etc. Of course, they thought the problem had been cleared up, but within an hour of driving away it came back.
Anybody else had this problem? Anyone have any guesses at to what it could be?
Shawn
P.S. I use at least 91 Octane gas always.
I have a '99 Maxima GXE. About three weeks ago, while running the air conditioner and while stopped at a redlight, I noticed that the motor was "jerking" like it was either wanting to go on or wanted to die out. It never has died out on me and it runs good when it is in motion. However, while idling, it constantly has a jerk, miss or surge in the motor. I don't know the correct car terminology. All I know is my car is doing something weird that it hasn't always done. Also, it is now making the same jerking action whether the air conditioner is running or not. Occasionally, say I am driving up a hill, the motor will sort of jerk like I have described above, especially when I don't push the gas pedal down all that much.
I took it in to a local Nissan dealership this week. No computer diagnostic codes came up. They really had no clue what was causing the problem. They thought it might be dirty fuel injectors, torque converter problem, transmission problem or ignition coil problem.
They ruled out the transmission, but were still sort of puzzled.
They decided to simply do a 60,000 mile maintenance job on the car. They cleaned the fuel injectors, changed spark plugs, adjusted timing chain, changed all filters and fluids, etc. Of course, they thought the problem had been cleared up, but within an hour of driving away it came back.
Anybody else had this problem? Anyone have any guesses at to what it could be?
Shawn
P.S. I use at least 91 Octane gas always.
Ant
08-16-2002, 03:15 AM
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 111
Bad Coil Pack?
Ihave a 99SE and have the exact same prob as the original post. So I tested my coil's acording to chilton's specs. Chilton says the harness connector to the coil pack is supposed to read "around 0.8 ohms resistance". Sure enough I got 0.68, 0.72 on 2 coil packs. I was wondering if anyone knows if this warrants a "bad coil pack"????? Or is 0.68 "around" 0.8? Gosh I hate chiltons! What the heck am I supposed to make out of "around". couldnt they be more acurate?
08-16-2002, 05:54 AM
#24
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 15
Re: Bad Coil Pack?
Originally posted by $tillen$ux
Ihave a 99SE and have the exact same prob as the original post. So I tested my coil's acording to chilton's specs. Chilton says the harness connector to the coil pack is supposed to read "around 0.8 ohms resistance". Sure enough I got 0.68, 0.72 on 2 coil packs. I was wondering if anyone knows if this warrants a "bad coil pack"????? Or is 0.68 "around" 0.8? Gosh I hate chiltons! What the heck am I supposed to make out of "around". couldnt they be more acurate?
Ihave a 99SE and have the exact same prob as the original post. So I tested my coil's acording to chilton's specs. Chilton says the harness connector to the coil pack is supposed to read "around 0.8 ohms resistance". Sure enough I got 0.68, 0.72 on 2 coil packs. I was wondering if anyone knows if this warrants a "bad coil pack"????? Or is 0.68 "around" 0.8? Gosh I hate chiltons! What the heck am I supposed to make out of "around". couldnt they be more acurate?
you might want to check the gapping on the spark plugs and while doing that check out the coil pack to see if they are bad. your worse case scenario could be a malfunction fuel injector or if your lucky they might just be dirty. you might want to check your ecu on your own. i took my 99se to the dealer five times and everytime they came back with the statment the car is running fine and there were no probs. i checked my ecu and sure enough i got the code for cylinder five misfire. there is also a tsb on this you might want to check out from what i hear. i havnt looked at it myself but on a few other posts i have read about it. good luck!! i know how frustrating it could be. let me know if this helps or not.
08-24-2002, 08:39 AM
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 121
all I can tell you is that I had the same exact problem and it came down to a bad coil in #1 cylinder, spent $100 on diagnostics for some ECU codes that led to that coil and another $70 to replace it, so far the jerk dissapeared but the check engine light stayed on and I'm wroking on resetting it, any ideas?
11-12-2002, 01:45 PM
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,812
New coils packs....
Originally posted by SLHines
Alright, here I am again to update on my original post.
My car has been acting the same way as reported in the original message of this thread. However, last week, it started bucking or jerking while I was actually moving down the road. It would do so if I had to ease off the gas for a second. It had only been acting up while sitting in idle.
I took it in to another Nissan dealership and within a few minutes they came out and said Bad Coil pack. No question. It is causing one cylinder to misfire badly. Had to special order coil pack, so I will let you know later if this worked.
I do have some related questions on this issue:
(1) What are the disadvantages to replacing just the one coil pack at this time. They recommended changing all six at once, but I don't have the dough. Am I just causing more problems by changing the one coil pack?
(2) When this problem first started, I took car in. Dealership said 60,000 mile tune up will fix problem. It didn't, but that is another story for another time. Anyway, as part of tune up, they were supposed to replace spark plugs. Yesterday, the other dealership recommended in addition to replacing coil pack that I change spark plugs. I told them other dealership changed them less than 1,000 miles ago. They stopped short of saying the first dealership ripped me off, but hinted that is what happened.
Ok, with the bad coil pack, should those brand new spark plugs look worse for wear? Only a 1,000 miles have been put on car since new plugs were supposedly installed?
(3) Finally, first dealership had no idea what was causing the problem in my car. Second dealership found the problem in about 15 minutes. No diagnostic codes ever showed up to help them out. First dealership said there were no Technical Bulletins issued on my car that resembled my problem. Second dealership said there has been a Technical Bulletin issued on that problem on my car for awhile and that it was the first thing they checked out.
What is going on with that first dealership? Is it common for some dealerships to miss Technical Bulletins? What is difference in Technical Bulletin and a Recall Notice? Is the dealer responsible for any of the costs of repair on a Technical Bulletin?
Thanks.
Alright, here I am again to update on my original post.
My car has been acting the same way as reported in the original message of this thread. However, last week, it started bucking or jerking while I was actually moving down the road. It would do so if I had to ease off the gas for a second. It had only been acting up while sitting in idle.
I took it in to another Nissan dealership and within a few minutes they came out and said Bad Coil pack. No question. It is causing one cylinder to misfire badly. Had to special order coil pack, so I will let you know later if this worked.
I do have some related questions on this issue:
(1) What are the disadvantages to replacing just the one coil pack at this time. They recommended changing all six at once, but I don't have the dough. Am I just causing more problems by changing the one coil pack?
(2) When this problem first started, I took car in. Dealership said 60,000 mile tune up will fix problem. It didn't, but that is another story for another time. Anyway, as part of tune up, they were supposed to replace spark plugs. Yesterday, the other dealership recommended in addition to replacing coil pack that I change spark plugs. I told them other dealership changed them less than 1,000 miles ago. They stopped short of saying the first dealership ripped me off, but hinted that is what happened.
Ok, with the bad coil pack, should those brand new spark plugs look worse for wear? Only a 1,000 miles have been put on car since new plugs were supposedly installed?
(3) Finally, first dealership had no idea what was causing the problem in my car. Second dealership found the problem in about 15 minutes. No diagnostic codes ever showed up to help them out. First dealership said there were no Technical Bulletins issued on my car that resembled my problem. Second dealership said there has been a Technical Bulletin issued on that problem on my car for awhile and that it was the first thing they checked out.
What is going on with that first dealership? Is it common for some dealerships to miss Technical Bulletins? What is difference in Technical Bulletin and a Recall Notice? Is the dealer responsible for any of the costs of repair on a Technical Bulletin?
Thanks.
So, did you get to put on the new coil packs?
If so, what happened? Did the problem go away?
Thanks,
FLO_BOY
11-14-2002, 07:26 AM
#29
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 1
Same problem.
Originally posted by SLHines
I took it in to another Nissan dealership and within a few minutes they came out and said Bad Coil pack. No question. It is causing one cylinder to misfire badly. Had to special order coil pack, so I will let you know later if this worked.
(2) Second dealership said there has been a Technical Bulletin issued on that problem on my car for awhile and that it was the first thing they checked out.
Thanks.
I took it in to another Nissan dealership and within a few minutes they came out and said Bad Coil pack. No question. It is causing one cylinder to misfire badly. Had to special order coil pack, so I will let you know later if this worked.
(2) Second dealership said there has been a Technical Bulletin issued on that problem on my car for awhile and that it was the first thing they checked out.
Thanks.
I have the same problem and I took my 99 SE twice to the dealer. First time they could not reproduce the problem, and second time ( different dealer) they tried to charge me for labor only to say the same.
My car is under extended warranty, so I think they should fix it. But without TSB I'm helpless in this fight.
11-20-2002, 02:48 PM
#31
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 15
Re: Same problem.
I dont remember the TSB but however what you could do is check your ecu codes. ANd that will tell you if the cylinder is misfiring or not. It will be a soft code unless you drive real rough and occurs a multiple of times in a short period if will register as a semi-hard code. I suggest that if one day your driving home and you feel your car jerk then when you get home dont turn your car off right away. Get your tools out and then turn the engine off, but not the car. Then read your ecu and it should tell you what's up. If it says a cylinder misfire most likely it is the coil pack. Depending on your extended warranty if it is silver or gold it is covered. You have to pay your deductible which should only be around 50 and your set. Try to get them to change all six coils if you find one that is bad. GOod luck!
Originally posted by ALOHA1973
Do you by any chance remember this TSB?
I have the same problem and I took my 99 SE twice to the dealer. First time they could not reproduce the problem, and second time ( different dealer) they tried to charge me for labor only to say the same.
My car is under extended warranty, so I think they should fix it. But without TSB I'm helpless in this fight.
Do you by any chance remember this TSB?
I have the same problem and I took my 99 SE twice to the dealer. First time they could not reproduce the problem, and second time ( different dealer) they tried to charge me for labor only to say the same.
My car is under extended warranty, so I think they should fix it. But without TSB I'm helpless in this fight.
11-25-2002, 08:34 AM
#32
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,812
Re: Re: Same problem.
Originally posted by OAKMaX
IANd that will tell you if the cylinder is misfiring or not. It will be a soft code unless you drive real rough and occurs a multiple of times in a short period if will register as a semi-hard code. I suggest that if one day your driving home and you feel your car jerk then when you get home dont turn your car off right away. Get your tools out and then turn the engine off, but not the car.
IANd that will tell you if the cylinder is misfiring or not. It will be a soft code unless you drive real rough and occurs a multiple of times in a short period if will register as a semi-hard code. I suggest that if one day your driving home and you feel your car jerk then when you get home dont turn your car off right away. Get your tools out and then turn the engine off, but not the car.
1) A "soft code"? what's that?
2) Turn the engine off, but not the car? OK...but, you can only pull
codes if the ignition is in the "ON" position...so, turn it off,
and then turn the key back to "ON"?
Also, SLHines --> what happened?!?!? Did you solve your problem???
Thanks!
FLO_BOY
11-25-2002, 10:34 AM
#33
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 15
Re: Re: Re: Same problem.
you turn the enigine off and put the key into the spot where the radio stays on but the engine is off...and then you put it in II but dont turn the engine on. and you will be able to read your codes.
Originally posted by FLO_BOY
Hello...couple of Qs:
1) A "soft code"? what's that?
2) Turn the engine off, but not the car? OK...but, you can only pull
codes if the ignition is in the "ON" position...so, turn it off,
and then turn the key back to "ON"?
Also, SLHines --> what happened?!?!? Did you solve your problem???
Thanks!
FLO_BOY
Hello...couple of Qs:
1) A "soft code"? what's that?
2) Turn the engine off, but not the car? OK...but, you can only pull
codes if the ignition is in the "ON" position...so, turn it off,
and then turn the key back to "ON"?
Also, SLHines --> what happened?!?!? Did you solve your problem???
Thanks!
FLO_BOY
11-25-2002, 10:48 AM
#34
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,812
Re: Re: Re: Re: Same problem.
Originally posted by OAKMaX
you turn the enigine off and put the key into the spot where the radio stays on but the engine is off...and then you put it in II but dont turn the engine on. and you will be able to read your codes.
you turn the enigine off and put the key into the spot where the radio stays on but the engine is off...and then you put it in II but dont turn the engine on. and you will be able to read your codes.
codes, all i received was a 5/5 - which is no codes.
maybe my ECU is bad?
FLO_BOY
11-25-2002, 01:05 PM
#35
Newbie - Just Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 7
I am the original poster on this thread and here is my update. I took a chance on the problem being a bad coil pack and went ahead and ordered it through the Nissan dealership. It took the dealership about 15 minutes to actually do the installation when I took it back. The problem went away immediately. I only replaced the one coil pack even though the dealer recommended changing all of them at once. I feared that if one started going bad, all of them would start to give out. However, it has been at least 3 months since I had the work done and have not experienced a single problem. COIL PACK was DEFINITELY the problem on my car.
What did I learn from this experience? First, some dealerships are rotten, dirty and do not belong in the free market system. Remember the first dealership tried to scare me saying Transmission, Torque Convertor, blah blah blah, and then gave me the "good news" that I only needed a 60,000 tune up. $500 later I am convinced the dealership was too lazy to actually look for the problem.
The second dealership found the problem in less than 15 minutes and fixed it in about another 15 minutes. Dealership #2 said there was a TSB on the problem and didn't know why Dealership #1 missed it. Said it was a common problem. I also asked the first dealership about coil problem based on what I had learned on this website. They said it could be coil pack but that there was no TSB on problem. Dealership #2 also questioned whether Dealership #1 actually performed all work it was supposed to under 60,000 tune up.
Everyone on this board gave great suggestions and some were dead on right (You know who you are). Thanks for all your help. Hopefully, I can drive my car with a peaceful mind now that the problem has been corrected. I absolutely loved my car before this problem started happening. After my car started to have trouble, I told all my friends I felt like my car had had an affair on me. I just didn't feel I could trust her anymore. She is back in my good graces for now.
Thanks for your help and putting up with my post.
Shawn Hines
What did I learn from this experience? First, some dealerships are rotten, dirty and do not belong in the free market system. Remember the first dealership tried to scare me saying Transmission, Torque Convertor, blah blah blah, and then gave me the "good news" that I only needed a 60,000 tune up. $500 later I am convinced the dealership was too lazy to actually look for the problem.
The second dealership found the problem in less than 15 minutes and fixed it in about another 15 minutes. Dealership #2 said there was a TSB on the problem and didn't know why Dealership #1 missed it. Said it was a common problem. I also asked the first dealership about coil problem based on what I had learned on this website. They said it could be coil pack but that there was no TSB on problem. Dealership #2 also questioned whether Dealership #1 actually performed all work it was supposed to under 60,000 tune up.
Everyone on this board gave great suggestions and some were dead on right (You know who you are). Thanks for all your help. Hopefully, I can drive my car with a peaceful mind now that the problem has been corrected. I absolutely loved my car before this problem started happening. After my car started to have trouble, I told all my friends I felt like my car had had an affair on me. I just didn't feel I could trust her anymore. She is back in my good graces for now.
Thanks for your help and putting up with my post.
Shawn Hines
08-09-2018, 06:10 PM
#36
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 1
2002 Maxima
I was driving and all of a sudden my engine started lurching. Won't go over 1000rpm before TCS and ABS come on and engine cuts out. Did the relearn sequence and thought that would fix it but no bueno. Replaced the CKP sensors tonight without any luck. Throttle body valve has a high pitched whistle. Have no idea what to do at this point. All suggestions welcome.
read the post above and thinking about coil pack now?
read the post above and thinking about coil pack now?
Last edited by Patrick Foreman; 08-09-2018 at 06:18 PM. Reason: adding text
08-10-2018, 09:22 AM
#37
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Planet Houston
Posts: 615
Patrick - you should start your own thread. I see that the OP already solved his problem here with a coil pack replacement .
Everyone else having driveability problems: "Have you TESTED / have your REPLACED your 20-year old fuel pump"? Although the fuel pump turning ON is a binary determination, the volume and rate of fuel flowing through the 20 year old pickup sock & fuel filter is NOT.
The suggestions about cleaning/baselining IACV/EGR guide tube/TB/coil packs/etc in response to driveability issues are all very very relevant - but even all of them together is not enough to counteract a failing fuel pump.
How do I know this? Because I too skipped over "check fuel pump" step (because I didn't have the proper tool and was too proud to borrow one, for free, from the parts store) and performed all those steps / replacements FIRST ($$)...when pretty much the fuel pump/filter was the problem the whole time.
If its not getting enough gas, its not going to run right no matter what else - and "some" is definitely not necessarily "enough".
Everyone else having driveability problems: "Have you TESTED / have your REPLACED your 20-year old fuel pump"? Although the fuel pump turning ON is a binary determination, the volume and rate of fuel flowing through the 20 year old pickup sock & fuel filter is NOT.
The suggestions about cleaning/baselining IACV/EGR guide tube/TB/coil packs/etc in response to driveability issues are all very very relevant - but even all of them together is not enough to counteract a failing fuel pump.
How do I know this? Because I too skipped over "check fuel pump" step (because I didn't have the proper tool and was too proud to borrow one, for free, from the parts store) and performed all those steps / replacements FIRST ($$)...when pretty much the fuel pump/filter was the problem the whole time.
If its not getting enough gas, its not going to run right no matter what else - and "some" is definitely not necessarily "enough".
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Chad_m
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
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