ATTN: 2k2's who's blown thier MAF at WOT..or near REDLINE? *Poll inside*
 

Please post when your 2k2/2k3 maf blew. =) Just for sake of documentation.

~Larry~

If you blow your maf..kindly call it the Lery syndrome. Seems like im almost in the lead for blown 2k2 maf's....right next to E-max. and if i blow enough of them they might change my status to indicate my MAF KILLING ways :)

just a thought.. perhaps because you were at WOT, maybe it was sucking air in too hard and oil was being pulled through the filter media and into the MAF...

... in other words, maybe it is all related..

might want to add the following to the poll:


o Who hasn't? :)

well...in my mind theres Busted MAF reason #1

-K&N oil excessive from factory, or over oiled by mistake. The increased airflow from a air intake causes the oil to build up on the MAF rendering it useless or retarded. Sometimes the ECM will not throw a CES light even though the MAF is malfunctioning at this point.

#2. Since a big group of people switched to an oil-less filter (Apex'i) to avoid situation #1, and to also get BETTER airflow. Several tests show APexi to filter and flow better than K&N. Some have blow MAF's even with this new dry filter. BUT, from my understanding MOST if not all have occured at WOT.. At redline shifts or a combination of the two. From other peoples theory and from my understanding on how MAF's work it seems that the ECM is sending TOO much voltage to the MAF sensor upon agressive driving (wot/redline) A sudden WOT punch will cause the ECM to shoot voltage to the MAF to compensate for the added air that is comming.

*A "hot" wire in the MAF heats up and is cooled by the incoming air, the ecm can get readings by how fast teh wire is cooled etc.... so as you give it sudden gas the computer has to heat the wire more so it can know how much more air is flowing through*

So it seems like the ECM shoots too much voltage to the heating element/maf..and it goes *poof* as soon as you slam the car into 3rd gear and stomp on the gas to pass up that slow car in front of you. then your CES light will on and your restricted to 2500rpms.



SO....seems like...stay with K&N..and watch the oil carefully. Or pray you have a sturdy MAF and go with Apexi. OR you can get a 2k1 MAF. Theyre made a little differently, and im using one now with good results. Theres boosted 2k1s running around so apparently the MAF is working well with the added voltage/shock from WOT punches.

But don't the 2K1 MAFS throws an SES light??? I only ask because an Org. member installed one and it threw a SES light.

I had a CES light when the 1st maf blew...dont know if it was suppsoed to shut off..but when i start my car, the light is off..1 second later it pops on.

It's due a few different things:

1) Bad ECU programming. Nissan "updates" the ECU when the MAF fails. No details are given about what the update does, just that it's part of the replacement procedure.

2) Defective MAF. Certain parts were actually defective. 2002's original MAF (22680-6N200) was bad and was replaced with a new one (22680-6N201). 2003's saw a change to a different MAF (22680-AM600) which had a bigger MAF sensor inside (not the tubing - the tubing is the same, only the actual sensor is larger).

3) Voltage. Too much voltage passed through the electric parts of the sensor itself and blew them (like a resistor or something). This was probably due to the combination of #1 and #2.

4) Oil. Seems to be rare, yet common. Alot of people state that the MAF had oil on it, but it hasn't been proven in more than a few cases that the MAF died because of this.

5) Any combination of the above.

Since there's not a real way to determine exactly WHY the MAF died, we can only speculate. I've done alot of research on the 2002-2003 side of this (search by my name in 5th gen forum). Nothing is consistant between failures other than the part numbers, the actual failure of the MAF, and the "experience" of dealing with a dealer to get it fixed.

BTW: If you use a 2000-2001 MAF on the 2002-2003, your SES light will stay on. This is because the 2000-2001 MAF doesn't include a temperature sensor that the 2002-2003 does. Since the ECU doesn't get the temperature setting, it throws the SES light. Nothing is known about whether the car's performances increases/decreases based upon the missing temperature information.

When i dyno comming up...i will see if i can grab a 2k2 MAF...i dont know how. But I want do dyno both.

Okay so who has blown their 2003 MAF? I wonder if they have fixed the problem with the new 2003 sensors. I'm scared to death to put an intake on due to this problem.

I feel the same as you do GURU, I want a Frankencar intake with Apexi filter but I refuse to purchase one until this MAF problem is resolved. I read somewhere that there are two 2001 MAF's, does the TSB one have the tempature sensor on it? Have any 03's with aftermarket intakes blown there MAF's?

Hey, my 2k2 has close to 20k on it, with a K&N since day one, and no maf problems here. I'm waiting for it to go tho, will prolly do it when my wife is driving.

oh look.. MAF Murder is posting again :wall:

blew mine at WOT. It threw a SES but when I got it back from the dealer it was off. I think they have to flash the ECU to remove it but not sure.:cool:

I am just learning
 

What do you mean Blown your MAF? Could I get a technical explanation please. Just starting to learn all this stuff. Thanks

Re: I am just learning
 

*To find out what "Blown MAF" means please read this entire thread...... *

I blew my MAF at WOT. I was merging with traffic and took my car up to the redline then the SES light came on and my engine shut off. I pulled over and tried to start the car repeatedly. The car would start then immediately shut of within 2 to 3 seconds. Almost like it wasn't getting enough gas. I then unplugged the battery for a minute then reattached the negative cable and started the car up. The car started fine however when I was driving it the engine wouldn't rev over 2300 RPM's. At this point I knew for sure that I had blown my MAF. The dealer replaced my MAF with the 2k3 model MAF and reprogrammed my ECU. I have my intake back on my car with the Apexi filter. I'm praying that it won't blow again....

:o dont make me wave my hands over your engine bay.......hahhahaha j/k....its the Lery syndrome actually...if you contract it..you blow your maf.

I blew the MAF right after I went over a dip at 25 - 30 mph. I have a CAI, I think that has something to do with it. The guy at the dealer said it was because of the excess dirt that is being sucked up by the CAI. So much for the "never needs to be clean" idea from Place Racing. I knew it was too good to be true..

"Arrgh" :mad: ....With all these MAFS blowing I'm having second thoughts about installing my Franken air intake. I do have both K&N and APEXi filters. I'll wait it out till there is a solution to this problem. If there isn't any solution I'll just sell it.

I think thats BS.......too much dirt? Have you checked the inside of your filter? if the inside is dirty..mabey the dirt is getting sucked through..but i DOUBT it. Your dealer is like most other nissan dealers..dumb.

Me too. No way I'm gonna risk my MAF until this is resolved. Hey, does Frankencar have anything to say about this?

If you didn't keep the stock flexible tubing where the throttle body connects to the upper pipe, then the MAF died due to excess vibration. The MAF is sensitive to shock as well as voltages. Frigging Nissan.

E-max or DMBmaxima pulled it out so hard and it flew across the room..landed on the concrete garage floor..it worked for several months after. :confused: . Ive dropped mine..and it blew 2 months later at WOT

Steve was the smart one who pulled that stunt off ;) laugh:
Where the hell is Steve these days?




I was allowed to only vote once, heres what happened the other times..

First MAFS blew at 21K miles, the car began to stall while in nuetral, but other wise drove perfectly fine.

After that one went and I switched to the apexi all hell broke loose. Shortly afterwords 3 more MAFS followed suit. These 3 all died at WOT. Vibration was not the elimintaing factor here..

Since you've blown 3 MAFS after switching to the APEXi ,Have you since switched back to the K&N ??? Are you still running with the 2K1 TSB MAFS's ??? These stories about blown MAFS are making me have second thoughts on installing my intake. "Arrrgh" :mad:

Mine did it whne I got to 22K... ;)

I have switched back to my fairly trusty K&N filter and I now have a spare MAFS in the glove box.

My original none TSB 2001 MAFS failed a few weeks back after flooring the car in 1st gear. On the spot I installed my new TSB 2001 MAFS and then put my K&N filter back on. When I got home I ordered another sapre 2001 MAFS :goofy:

Is your car throwing a SES light with the 2K1 TSB MAFS ???? I heard it throws a light because it doesn't have a temperature sensor on the 2K1 TSB MAFS :confused: Is it better to run the Franken with the K&N instead???...
BTW, Has anyone heard of Best Products Inc.'s Pro-Flow Mass Air Flow Meters??? I heard they make fabricate aftermarket MAFS,maybe they can fabricate a MAFS for us 2K2-2K3 owners that won't blow.

That's part of my surprise that is coming up. I've got a company working on an aftermarket MAF as we type. No details will be released until I test it in mid-March. I'm leaving home on the 14th and will return on the 23rd. I should have the results by the time I get back.

Frank-n-take.......BOOM

I have not been able to obtain the white sheet specifications on the MAFS so I have not been able to wire up a proper test. I have a strong feeling that a current limiter ciruit wired in between the MAF sensor and the ECM would do the trick.

Only problem, is we can't figure out the the max current to begin limiting at because I can't obtain the white sheet. Does anyone here have engineering contacts at hitachi?

SHIFT_woosh

studman,keep me as well as others updated on this. Hopefully 2K2-2K3 owners will be worry free if all is good with the R&D aftermarket MAF.

Replaced it with a 2k3???

I wonder if that's the correct solution.
Can you take a look at it and get the part number off of it?

I'm curious if "when" our 2k2 MAF goes, we can get Autozone to clear the codes and we can replace with a 2K3 MAF that is of a better design (if that's the case). I want to get a spare MAF since I'm running an Injen (and have been for about 6K miles). I still have the original POS MAF.

Replaced it with a 2k3???

I wonder if that's the correct solution. At least it would have the temp sensor part (not like the 2K1s).
Can you take a look at it and get the part number off of it?

I'm curious if "when" our 2k2 MAF goes, we can get Autozone to clear the codes and we can replace with a 2K3 MAF that is of a better design (if that's the case). I want to get a spare MAF since I'm running an Injen (and have been for about 6K miles). I still have the original POS MAF.

The part no. for my new MAF is 22680-AM600 which corresponds to the MAF part no. on the 2k3 model maximas. I previously had part no. 22680-6N200, the original MAF sensor that came with my car. Again, the dealer also reprogrammed my ECU when they changed out the MAF. I don't know to what extent, if any, this will help me from blowing another MAF. In the meantime I'm keeping my fingers crossed......

I've only posted this 2,980,980,912 times.

2002's:
22680-6N200 was defective from the MFG.
22680-6N201 is the replacement part.

2003's:
22680-AM600 is the original part - no known issue.

I just talked to the guy at the dealer again today, he said that there is a new price for the MAF sensor. It's $103, it use to be $488. Gee, if it's only $100 a pop, I think I can afford to blow the MAF once in a while, I'll keep a spare MAF right next to my spare tire... :D