Please help! Car won't start!
 

My battery is fine, my lights work, the electrical works, but it won't crank. Is this a problem with the starter?

Put it in neutral (if you're an auto) and try to start it.

Are the battery connections clean and tight?

I just tried in neutral, same result. It makes an awful sound. I really hope this is nothing serious.

If if won't turn over make sure it's in park. If it does turn over it may be the cam shaft position sensor. The same thing happened to mine, but it should still crank after a few tries.

It's in park and it won't crank. My hardwired radar detector meaures 11.8V so I don't think it has anything to do with the battery.

Is the sound coming from the starter?

I don't know. I don't even know where the starter is.

Sounds like you need someone to look at your car to ascertain the source of the noise and troubleshoot the no start condition.

wildmanal, Crank Sensor Recall applies to 2k2+ maximas and other Nissan products. His condition is no crank. Crank Sensor symptom is crank, but no start or requires prolonged cranking to start.

steelymatt sounds like your starter, if you are still under your warrantee do it. If you have a extended warrantee, use it.
Don't purchase aftermarket starters, use only Genuine Nissan Parts. Why ? I just finished a warrantee claim on a 2k1 Maxima that had a bad rear mainseal, starved of oil and engine blown. I recieved a call from Nissan Techline about an aftermarket starter. The aftermarket starter failed, fell apart chewed flexplate a bit and somehow a piece of metal was swallowed by the rear main seal, causing a failure. Leaked oil, journals fried, scored cylinder walls. In other words, I just got a 'chargeback' from Nissan North America on my warrantee claim. Consulted with customer about aftermarket starter. His response was "..I was afraid the dealer would rip me off..: Easy way out, go to his 'friends' shop and replace with a aftermarket unit cheap. Worse part he was still under warrantee of 3yr/ 36K when his starter failed. His 'friends' shop knew it, and didn't send him to the dealer ? Their response "..you would've brought him into service, and add on all your so called maintenance.." Customers can decline that work. The customer's claim has gone belly up and is now responsible for long block assembly and labor time. Cost: $6800+tax.

Freakish things to happen. Battery can hold charge under NO LOAD, but dies w/ LOAD from starting car. Could also point to alternator problem, or simply your 'SMART' entrance control module is cooked. I had one 2K Maxima w/ a freak problem. ISC (Idle Speed Control) solenoid shorted out, and cooked the ECU. Also car came in, no crank no start condition.

Good Luck.

I had the car towed to the dealership. All diag codes turned up ok. They think it was as simple as the engine being flooded. They held down the accelerator at startup and all is fine now.

Four Letters N.V.I.S.

Is your security light on when you're tying to crank.... if so, NVIS got you...

That's strange. They did a clear flood startup. I don't know what would have caused that other than the coolant temp sensor sending a flawed reading to the ECM. It must have been some kind of fluke. Glad you got it taken care of. :thumbsup: