OEM Rotors won't come off - help!
 

I'm in the process of replacing the rotors/pads on my 2002 Maxima, which is bone stock. The car is on jack stands right now so a response would be much appreciated.

I've done brakes before, but this one is being a pain! The caliper and caliper bracket is off the car. This rotor seems to be friggin welded on or something... it won't budge! There doesn't appear to be anything else holding it on the hub (OR IS THERE????)

I've pounded it to hell with a mallet trying to break it free, but no go..

Should I continue to pound on this bad boy or am I missing something???

The car has under 24k miles on it - I didn't think it'd be stuck on like this!!

Hit it from the back and see if that works.

I have been doing that - these suckers are REEEALLY on there. Didn't think I'd piss away my whole day with this...ARGH. I should be out on my motorcycle!!!!!

The other trick that's worked for me is putting a two-armed puller on the rotor. Once it's on there, put some pressure on the rotor with the puller. Once you have some pressure, smack it with a mallet. No need to be gentle either - really get at least 5 pounds worth of mallet behind it and hit it like you mean it.

or just um put some Wd40 on there and let it sit for a little bit while you drink a beer

I've sprayed WD40 all over that thing over the course of an hour. Tried beating that rotor off dozens of times too (you should see my new mallet, looks like it's 10 yrs old)... Just don't have the time today to finish the job so I had to put everything back together.

Thought maybe I could run over to NTB and have them do it, but after they told me it would be $250 for a front brake job, I might just take it to the stealer. That price was if they cut the rotors too! Eff that!

So much for saving money eh? I have 11 months left on the lease and I thought I could at least save some money by doing this myself.

:nupe500: This sucks a$$!!!!

keep hitting them until they come loose.....

Get the biggest hammer you have and get VERY angry with them. Don't waste your time trying to hit them from behind because it doesn't matter.

Spray a lot...maybe a whole can and let it sit for a while.

dont give up, do it tomorrow... but get really pissed off and it should work out well :thumbsup:

cant believe no one said this yet.... find a bolt that you can screw into the little hole on the face of the rotor. crank the bolt thru and it will push the rotor off the hub.

My friend told me the same thing - BUT there aren't any holes on the face of the rotor except the 5 for the lug studs.

First of all WD40 is a lubricant not a penetrating fluid! Try pb buster...Second of all if you are going to return it on a lease, just slap pads in there (**** the rotor) It doesn't matter unless you went metal to metal. Dealer wont say **** if you have good pads in there.

Just knock the hell out of it with the mallet/hammer. Ran into the same thing when I replaced mine.

Since the rotors are trash anyway, use a heavy, steel hammer and wack it right on the braking area surface. The vibration is what will knock these puppies loose.

I just used steel hammer and hammered the rotors off from the back side

Easiest way to do it

If a rubber mallet or a regular hammer won't work, then go to Wal-Mart or Home Depot and buy a sledge hammer and give one hard wack. Just make sure you hit it right on target and you don't hit anything else. Or you'll be replacing more than just your brakes.

Good luck!!

Any regular hammer will work fine. You guys stop being weak and put some muscle into it. Just hit the thing on the front braking surface area like a couple of us have said. No stubborn brake rotor has ever defeated me using this tried and true method. I have even seen a guy at work knock a hole in a Mercedes rotor before it finally let go.

Sometimes a bit of finess can go a long way. Many rotor have 2 holes in them you can stick bolts into. It varies from car to car but they are there. Put a random bolt in there & start cranking away. The further in the bolt goes its going to start pushing the rotor off. Without have to use a hammer & jacking up the rotor.

Forgive me for being blunt, but you're a doofus if you think WD40 is not a penetrative agent. From WD40's own website (plus, if you read their can, it's kind of a dead give away)...

"Warm weather is on the way, so it’s a good time to spruce up your yard tools, work spaces and recreational gear. Whether you’re spending time outdoors for work or for play, WD-40 can help keep equipment in great shape. Try WD-40 to:
# Dissolve sap and prevent it from sticking to pruning shears, chainsaws and other trimming tools
# Prevent grass from sticking to lawnmowers and grass catchers
# Remove rust and prevent it from forming on patio furniture and playground equipment
# Penetrate stuck bolts and parts on scooters, bicycles and skateboards
# Lubricate and prevent rust on hooks, lures, reels and tackle"


Known as "the can with a thousand uses," WD-40 protects metal from rust and corrosion, penetrates stuck parts, displaces moisture, and lubricates just about anything. WD-40 is also great when it comes to cleaning grease, grime, and other marks from most surfaces.

My rotors had retainer clips on them (stock, on the studs). Wonder if his does as well...

My front rotors needed an exessive beating with a big steel mallet before they poped off. Dont be scared :nervous:

is your e break off?

E-Brake, and if he has the caliper and caliper brackets off, why would it matter if the E-Brake was on?

haha i had this same problem just bang it hard...

:lol: - yeah, check your e brake :faint:

First off, e-brake only affects the back wheels. I appreciate the input guys.

I've been anything BUT gentle with this thing. If only the pads were worn, I WOULD slap pads on it and be done. But the rotors are warped like a mo-fo and it's awful to feel while applying the brakes.

Not sure when I'll get another attempt at working on it...

I would suggest putting some "release oil" and let it penetrate into it first for about 1 hr. Heating the rotor at the attachement is important which will loosen the rust and expand the metal. Use an adjustable hi-heat gun(500 degF) or gas torch. Don't use your hair dryer. Then use your steel hammer. Have an energy bar and hit the disk EVENLY on both sides. Don't forget your safety glasses so no metal chips fly into your eyes. Good luck.

the e-brake doesnt have anything to do wit the front brakes

Try using "break-free". This stuff is amazing. The Air Force used it to 'break loose' nuts, bolt and anything that won't budge. Can be found at the hardware store or automotive parts store. If this stuff doesn't work its 1)welded on 2)locked with a c-clip or 3)held on by demons
Good Luck!

Thanks for the tip, I'll look for that stuff.

Unfortunately I don't have access to a torch. If I did, I probably would have burned this POS to the ground by now.

Did I mention the car got a new trans a couple of weeks ago? THANK GOD this is a lease.

One, I was correcting his spelling (e break/E-Brake). Two, thank you Captain Obvious. I stated technical info my post if you learn how to read proper English. What I said was, and I quote;

"E-Brake, and if he has the caliper and caliper brackets off, why would it matter if the E-Brake was on?"

Third, his first post said the following;

" I'm in the process of replacing the rotors/pads on my 2002 Maxima, which is bone stock. The car is on jack stands right now so a response would be much appreciated.

I've done brakes before, but this one is being a pain! The caliper and caliper bracket is off the car. This rotor seems to be friggin welded on or something... it won't budge! There doesn't appear to be anything else holding it on the hub (OR IS THERE????)

I've pounded it to hell with a mallet trying to break it free, but no go..

Should I continue to pound on this bad boy or am I missing something???

The car has under 24k miles on it - I didn't think it'd be stuck on like this!!"

Funny, but I do not see a mention of front brakes in this post.


Again, learn the English language. Then learn to read.
:tard:

The only thing you need here is a "Big and heavy" hammer (at least 2 lb).
You are wasting your time if you use small hammer.
I had same problem before.
I tried to hit the rotors with a small hammer and they just didn't move at all. Once I changed to a BIG hammer, the rotors came off with one hit.

I cant believe the amount of advise from folks who dont know our cars:
1. "make sure the e-brake is off". First, that does not apply to front brakes, and secondly, the way our e-brakes work thru a ratchet mechanism which moves the piston inside the caliper the same way applying the brakes does, IF THE E-BRAKE WAS ON, YOU COULD NOT EVEN REMOVE THE CALIPER!!!! DUHH!!!!!!!!

2. "Stick a bolt thru the hole and push the rotors out": our rotors dont have these *&&^^%%^$$ holes. DUHH AGAIN!!!!!!

Guys, if you dont really know our cars, do us all a favor and shudthefluckup

Heat the hub area nice and evenly with a torch and then beat them to sheed until they pop loose..........

That's the best way if you have the threaded holes. My 02 didn't so this is how I got mine off:
http://users.visi.net/~nicely/rotor1.jpg
http://users.visi.net/~nicely/rotor2.jpg
http://users.visi.net/~nicely/rotor3.jpg

Now THAT is a very resourceful and very fine idea....well done!!

240se - now THAT's using your noggin. I'm kinda ticked because I didn't think of it myself!!!

Just talked to the stealer and they want $239.95 for a front brake job and they can go blow. And then he said it'd be an extra $125/rotor if it needs rotors. These made out of gold? One thing's for sure, with rotors that warp this quick, new OEM ones will not go on the car if they need to be replaced. I'll have to wait until another nice weekend so I can attempt this again.

240se - :bowdown: :thumbsup:

Those sound like dealer prices, such horsesh!t!!

Oh, And don't forget to put a light spray of anti-seize if you don't want it to stick again.