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Got my RSB... Damnit, Stillen!!!!!

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Old 05-25-2001, 03:33 PM
  #41  
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Re: Re: Update on the bolt sit-chi-ation

Originally posted by Jeff92se
That grade 8 bolt is probably the strongest one of the bunch. Just go ahead and do it. As for trying to get Stillen to fix it, you have two choices:
1) Rant and rave at Stillen for weeks or months while your RSB sits there uninstalled.
2) Just pay maybe $3 max and get some extra hardware from the store and be done with it in one day.

It's up to you. Yeah Stillen made a mistake but geez, it's only one bolt and nut. In this case, the problem is not worth the bloodpressure! Let me tell you about this guy who ordered a RSB from Cattman.....

Jeff - I'm 100% in agreement with you. I'm not going to rant and rave any more than I did in my initial onslaught. As I've indicated, I'm pretty much past the anger of the whole situation. It is only 1 bolt, but I guess it was just the priniciple of the matter.

Anyway, another question... You think there would be any problem with mixing and matching or should I go down and spend the $3 (you were right, by the way, if I replace all of them ) and get everything to be the same. The only prob is that the replacement pieces are not stainless steel. They're weather "resistant" but not "proof".

What are your thoughts?

Thanks again.
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Old 05-25-2001, 03:37 PM
  #42  
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Re: Re: Re: Update on the bolt sit-chi-ation

Just replace the one bolt/nut.

Originally posted by RcticMax


Jeff - I'm 100% in agreement with you. I'm not going to rant and rave any more than I did in my initial onslaught. As I've indicated, I'm pretty much past the anger of the whole situation. It is only 1 bolt, but I guess it was just the priniciple of the matter.

Anyway, another question... You think there would be any problem with mixing and matching or should I go down and spend the $3 (you were right, by the way, if I replace all of them ) and get everything to be the same. The only prob is that the replacement pieces are not stainless steel. They're weather "resistant" but not "proof".

What are your thoughts?

Thanks again.
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Old 05-25-2001, 03:41 PM
  #43  
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the bolts stillen gives you aren't anything proof as far as I can tell. Mine are rusted it looks like..... give the hardware store bolts a try....can't hurt.
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Old 05-25-2001, 04:49 PM
  #44  
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About the horns... check out the package because it says so. I put the high note in front and low note next to the coolant.
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Old 05-25-2001, 04:56 PM
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Originally posted by Y2KevSE
check out the package
...take pictures of your *****...

What's with you today Kev?

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Old 05-25-2001, 05:02 PM
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Originally posted by punkdork


...take pictures of your *****...

What's with you today Kev?

You want to see?
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Old 05-25-2001, 05:44 PM
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------->
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Old 05-25-2001, 07:03 PM
  #48  
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Originally posted by Y2KevSE
About the horns... check out the package because it says so. I put the high note in front and low note next to the coolant.
You ahhh corRECT, sir! Right there, plain as day... in 2pt friggin' font.
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Old 05-25-2001, 07:06 PM
  #49  
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Originally posted by RcticMax


You ahhh corRECT, sir! Right there, plain as day... in 2pt friggin' font.
...but it's there.
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Old 05-25-2001, 07:22 PM
  #50  
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Originally posted by punkdork


...take pictures of your *****...

What's with you today Kev?

Woah! Two references to Kev's ***** in one day is two too many!!!
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Old 05-25-2001, 08:16 PM
  #51  
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Re: Re: Re: Update on the bolt sit-chi-ation

Originally posted by RcticMax


Jeff - I'm 100% in agreement with you. I'm not going to rant and rave any more than I did in my initial onslaught. As I've indicated, I'm pretty much past the anger of the whole situation. It is only 1 bolt, but I guess it was just the priniciple of the matter.

Anyway, another question... You think there would be any problem with mixing and matching or should I go down and spend the $3 (you were right, by the way, if I replace all of them ) and get everything to be the same. The only prob is that the replacement pieces are not stainless steel. They're weather "resistant" but not "proof".

What are your thoughts?

Thanks again.
Since we're voting here, I would replace all of the nuts and bolts and also use just a little bit of anti-sieze on them to keep them from rusting together. If you tighen them down good, the anti-sieze won't hurt anything.
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Old 05-25-2001, 10:53 PM
  #52  
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Mid-Install Question

Ok, here's the deal...

I got the lugs loose (talk about a ball-buster... I don't have a compressor ), and the car is up on jack stands.

Question 1:

Is there any problem with the jack stand being just off center from that notch. It's still in the area of the double metal lip, however. I couldn't use my hydrolic jack (used it to raise the car for the jack stand) AND slip the jack stand in the same real estate so they were both off center (jack stand still is now that the hydrolic jack has been slipped out). Does that make sense? I can't tell by reading it?

Anyway...

Question 2:

My wife freaked out about me working anywhere near under the car with her not around (she just went to bed). What can I tell ya? Marriage is nothing but a series of comprimises . I told her to hang out while I at least got the car on the jack stands so I would be ahead of the game tomorrow. Finally the question: Any problem with me leaving the car on the jack stands overnight?

I suppose the answer to question 1 would certainly impact the answer the question 2. Right now I'm waiting for a VERY loud noise coming from the garage (i.e. the jack stand going through the underbody ridge or something)

Let's see... how many times did I use the word jack stands, counting the one I just used: 9!!! A NEW WORLD RECORD!

Hope it's not too late for one of you guys to answer.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 05-25-2001, 11:01 PM
  #53  
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You should be fine. To get my car up I have a 2ton bottle jack (narrow). I jack up the car on part of the double lip and there is just enough width to put the jackstand in.

Actually this is no longer 100% correct. Since I lowered the car I now have to jack it up with my hydraulic jack to fit the bottle jack. Once its on the BJ (bottle jack ) I take it off the jackstands.

Your wife is kinda right about the jackstands. I wouldn't trust my life to em. When I have my car on the jack stands I try my damnedest to stay out from under the car.

Good luck
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Old 05-25-2001, 11:12 PM
  #54  
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Originally posted by punkdork
You should be fine. To get my car up I have a 2ton bottle jack (narrow). I jack up the car on part of the double lip and there is just enough width to put the jackstand in.

Actually this is no longer 100% correct. Since I lowered the car I now have to jack it up with my hydraulic jack to fit the bottle jack. Once its on the BJ (bottle jack ) I take it off the jackstands.

Your wife is kinda right about the jackstands. I wouldn't trust my life to em. When I have my car on the jack stands I try my damnedest to stay out from under the car.

Good luck
Cool... I was hoping you'd be around Yoda.

Anyway, your reply is somewhat contradictory. At first you state I should be fine, they you finish up saying you wouldn't trust your life to 'em. Now I know there's a difference between your Max getting bent up and smashed after falling off jack stands and your head getting squished, but it's a fine line, my friend, a fine line .

I, too, have one of those BJ's. It's an old yellow one with a sticker on it I noticed tonight that read "MFG Date 1983"... oooooh, feelin' good about that one, I tell ya!

But hey, it still worked. Oh, one more question... since it's a 4000lb jack, couldn't I just jack up the whole back end at once? Where would the jack point be for that one?
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Old 05-25-2001, 11:23 PM
  #55  
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Originally posted by RcticMax
But hey, it still worked. Oh, one more question... since it's a 4000lb jack, couldn't I just jack up the whole back end at once? Where would the jack point be for that one?
Yeah you should be able too. I could never find the jack point myself heheh
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Old 05-26-2001, 07:32 AM
  #56  
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Jacking the rear

OK. This is what I did when I installed my RSB. I had a 2-ton (4000 lb) floor jack and a pair of 2-ton jack stands. I took the floor jack and some scrap 2x4's and placed the wood in between the jack and the center of the rear beam. I centered the jack under the beam and just jacked it up. If you look just past the jacking point notch under the car (just next to the side molding on the car's frame) there is a cup-like area with a hole in it. I think it is a perfect place to put the stands. I put mine there and it seemed very stable. Overnight on jack stands should not be a problem.

Getting the car down after the RSB install is just the same except you have less space for the floor jack under the rear beam. But it should be OK.

Good luck!
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Old 05-26-2001, 08:22 AM
  #57  
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Originally posted by Y2KevSE


You want to see?
No.

Thanks for the tip on the horns Kev.
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