dcam0326

I should mention I recently installed a dual output O2 sim and that resolved my p0420 code, not sure if that's related.

I ran the codes with a scanner from Advance Auto Parts 2 days ago and pulled a P1320 code. I brought the car to a mechanic and a day of waiting later he told me they can't even get their scanner to communicate. I read a lot of threads on this forum by searching and found that it's probably related to my ignition coils but could potentially be something else. I do not have any OEM ignition coils so it's very possible that they are the problem, but I don't want to spend $500 and not solve anything, I have learned that throwing money at the problem often doesn't work. Any ideas? Any suggestions on where to get more affordable yet reliable coils? Should I just put in 6 aftermarket coils and hope that holds the engine over long enough to pass emissions (on 9/1)? Please help!

Gemner

iTrader: (4)

sounds like you need to replace 1 or more coils. Unless you get a misfire code you can either replace them all or try replacing 1 at a time until the code stays away. Aftermarket coils, which it sounds like you have, are notorious for throwing codes

You might be able to trigger the cylinder misfire code if you drive the car hard for a bit, several high RPM trips would help that.

I would ignore the mechanics scanner issue, if your scanner is communicating he probably screwed up somehow

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

Are aftermarket coils currently on the car? If yes then that's probably your issue. Try to find a used OEM set in the classifieds on here. They usually go for around $100 or less.

dcam0326

Thanks for the quick response. I am getting fed up with mechanics, I've been through 4 in the last month and every single one was unreliable and lazy! I have been doing all my own work since then and, guess what, no issues with laziness! (yet)

Anyway, since I have no specific misfire code I know I can remove each coil until there is no change. The problem is the car doesn't seem to be idling rough like it did when I had a specific cylinder code in the past (shaking uncontrollably at idle/utter loss of power). So if i do the normal diagnostic process with removing each coil, how can I tell which one is bad if there is no change?

I drive the car hard almost every day, so I'm not sure I'll be able to trip the cylinder code. I don't drive like an ***, the highway on ramps near me require you to come to a complete stop and then accelerate to 60+ mph, so I hit 3500-4k rpms almost daily.


Yes, theyre aftermarket crappy ones the dealer installed when I bought the car (didn't know better at the time). I'll definitely check that out, thanks!

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

As you are driving around, stop by that Advance Auto Parts and ask them to scan the codes again and see if they can read the codes or have the same problem as the mechanic. If you state inspection checks for codes as part of the inspection and their machine can't connect, you'll fail the inspection for that.

T_Behr904

I recommend getting your own scanner. You can get a good one for $100 or so, and I always recommend someone having one if they own any late model car that's out of warranty.

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

You can get one for less than $30 shipped these days:


I use that one and have no issues. It works great on all of my vehicles. Very basic but gets the job done. You can check/clear codes and check to see if your systems are ready for inspection.