Simardfosgate3

Looking for some help figuring out the mystery that is my Nissan.

Very new to anything in the world of imports and that of my 2003 Nissan maxima se 6spd

105k miles on the car in pretty decent shape. Car is stock with the exception of an NWP Block off plate, Home made short ram intake, pcv disconnected, and muffler delete.

A few weeks ago after some nice runs down twisty roads with my buddies (loving my newly installed coilovers and 6thgen brakes) the car decided that it didn't want to quite put out the power it used to and just seemed very doggy, mostly 3-3.5k and above. I didn't think much of it and just figured the car got hot and wasn't enjoying it self as I had been pushing it pretty hard and asking it to keep up with a fiat 2000 spyder on some back roads.

Much to my surprise and happiness the car came out of it fairly quickly and was back to the power plant I once knew. That was until a week later it decided to once again lose some power, this time with nothing but normal commuting driving. But the car also made me the proud new owner of an ecu with a orange light illuminated in my dash and the wonderful P0300 code for random misfire; My lucky day I thought!

I pulled the car over and deleted the codes with my cheapie scan tool and all was well and the car seemed normal again. Weird but ill take it.

Fast forward to yesterday and here is where we get the real issues! woo!

I had decided it would be nice to give the car a nice wash under the hood.

This idea wasn't met without my share of mistakes:

1. Covered nothing but the cone filter in plastic bags
2. Got in a rush halfway through and sprayed everything down with cleaner that was left. (engine)
3. Still in said rush I began to hose the whole bay down after cleaing
4. Because of said rush I then started the car to dry it all under the hood, No leaf blower or air hose needed! WRONG!

Went to start the car and I was met with a very hard start and an Idle not even a mother could love. Then remembered I had unplugged but yet to re connect the MAF sensor. BINGO! That's got to be my whole issue right there of course!

Plugged said MAF in and the car started only slightly easier but was still met with the same rough low idle, slow revving, knocking/rattling under hood, and flashing check engine light.

I wasn't please so I set about shutting the car off and working on other projects figuring maybe it just needed some time to air dry.

This brings us to this morning when I attempt to start the car and I am met with the same issues as yesterday only this time with a free gift! Now its blowing smoke out of the breather on the front valve cover and idles at only about 500rpm and dies after throttle input/rev up.

I've searched for similar issue but cant come up with any that really match mine batch. Any thoughts out there?

I am very much so missing my GM 4.3 Vortec right now.

Simardfosgate3

buppity bump bump bumpity bump bump wish my Max could go

nestorlugo

iTrader: (11)

Did water get in the valve covers?

Sent from my iPad using and abusin Maxima.Org

Simardfosgate3

I guess it's a possibility though only the breathers there. How much water could really enter through the breather?


Could it enter anywhere else in under the valve cover?

Nismo_Pilot

iTrader: (1)

You need to disconnect and dry any connectors associated with engine management. Especially the MAF. Do you have a rev limit if you can keep it running? 2500rpm and you are looking at a MAF issue. Then pray that you didnt short the ECM at that pin.

*edit*
Also, the MAF code that you set when you started it with the MAF disconnected is a hard code. You have to delete it for it to run right.

Simardfosgate3

No rev limit when it's running and no issue keeping it running actually just runs rough and revs slowly it seems. It only dies when I don't give it throttle and try to let it idle...

Simardfosgate3

What other connectors would be associated with engine management?

Nismo_Pilot

iTrader: (1)

Cam/crank, throttle position sensor, Idle air control valve, coolant temp, injectors, coils, etc.

Did you delete any codes present? Scan tool or battery disconnect.

Simardfosgate3

Yes I deleted all the codes present and unfortunately don't recall what they were. I will disconnect the battery and try blowing out all those connections, changing the oil, and restarting the car.

Are there any other suggestions of things to do/try before restarting the car?

Nismo_Pilot

iTrader: (1)

Do the connectors and crank it up and drive it if you can. Since you should have no codes currently get back to me with anything that pops up after a test drive and we will go from there.

Simardfosgate3

Cleaned all connections with contact cleaner then blew them out with an air hose.


Ran the car and it still acted the same.


Took the car out for a drive and got it up to temp, only code I got was a P0051.

nestorlugo

iTrader: (11)

Thats 02 sensor on bank 2 fsm should be your best friend while you're troubleshooting

Simardfosgate3

I am almost positive my motors pooched...


The knocking and rattling seems worse now and not related at all to anything electrical.


I just cant seem to wrap my head around how it could have happened. I had noticed the car was slowly consuming more and more oil... Culprit? What could be?

nestorlugo

iTrader: (11)

Did the oil have water?

And if it did "pooched"as you stated, its time for you to search voltagedrop.net 5.7beast
When your done with the swap you can call your buddy for a rematch with the fiat

Simardfosgate3

I have yet to check the oil yet to see if it did have water in it but I'm now almost betting it did.

I was a bit discouraged after having the car still acting up and making noise that I set about working on another project I've got (1zzfe motor swap with a 6spd into a Pontiac vibe)

I will check it out later though.

Now I've really got to weigh my options.