5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
04-23-2008, 09:10 AM
#5761
04-23-2008, 09:30 AM
#5762
problem that is really bothering me, When i first crank my car up in the morning, when i try to crank it, it makes a bad scratching noise like the starter doesnt want to turn over then it finally turns over and runs fine. It sounds like grinding metal and only really happens when the car has been sitting for awhile without being cranked up. when i get it cranked and drive for awhile, its fine when i try to crank it up for the rest of the day. Im guessing that its my starter....but could someone please give me some feedback, from multiple people of possible....thanks
04-23-2008, 09:58 AM
#5763
problem that is really bothering me, When i first crank my car up in the morning, when i try to crank it, it makes a bad scratching noise like the starter doesnt want to turn over then it finally turns over and runs fine. It sounds like grinding metal and only really happens when the car has been sitting for awhile without being cranked up. when i get it cranked and drive for awhile, its fine when i try to crank it up for the rest of the day. Im guessing that its my starter....but could someone please give me some feedback, from multiple people of possible....thanks
04-23-2008, 10:15 AM
#5765
http://www.courtesyparts.com/paint/maxima.html
04-23-2008, 03:11 PM
#5766
2 questions today.
i heard someone is making CF eyelids for 5 and 5.5 gen, anybody knows who?
if i lost one of my keys and some guy picked it up.
now i want to re-program my spare one, do i have to go to the stealer or i can do it at home with instructions?
now if that guy knows that it's for my max and want to steal it, the key that i lost in which he has would not work right?
i heard someone is making CF eyelids for 5 and 5.5 gen, anybody knows who?
if i lost one of my keys and some guy picked it up.
now i want to re-program my spare one, do i have to go to the stealer or i can do it at home with instructions?
now if that guy knows that it's for my max and want to steal it, the key that i lost in which he has would not work right?
04-23-2008, 03:13 PM
#5767
you may want to take it to the stealership and get a new code.
if you don't, i don't see why he couldn't use your stolen one with the same code that is being used by your spare......
if you don't, i don't see why he couldn't use your stolen one with the same code that is being used by your spare......
04-23-2008, 07:30 PM
#5770
Depends on where you live. I'm in NM and my 4th gen (Model yr 95) has no rust whatsoever.
Bad rotors, common problem when Nissan decided to put Civic size brakes on these things.
Pics? Carfax?
That's always nice.
Without visually seeing it, I trust that you're judgment is good enough, if you need a little help, check www.nada.com & www.kbb.com.
Drive ability tells a long story, couple that w/ SES lights / codes, and you should be able to find a problem. None other than you specified are 'common', but that can be subjective. take a look at the TSB thread in the stickys.
If they're pulsating, then that means they haven't serviced them in a while 9maybe) and therefore then that also means it might need a brake bleeding.
Bad rotors, common problem when Nissan decided to put Civic size brakes on these things.
Pics? Carfax?
That's always nice.
Without visually seeing it, I trust that you're judgment is good enough, if you need a little help, check www.nada.com & www.kbb.com.
Drive ability tells a long story, couple that w/ SES lights / codes, and you should be able to find a problem. None other than you specified are 'common', but that can be subjective. take a look at the TSB thread in the stickys.
If they're pulsating, then that means they haven't serviced them in a while 9maybe) and therefore then that also means it might need a brake bleeding.
Thanks for the input
I checked carfax and it's clear, so I supposed the accident was settled outside. Other than the brakes and the steering wheel not centered (I guess it needs an alignment), the car drove fine. I didn't really test the suspension fully, but I think there was some faint 'knocking'-like noise from the front when going over potholes... could this be bad shocks, or ball joint??
04-23-2008, 07:58 PM
#5771
So today i went back and checked all the wiring for my HID fogs and even redid some to make sure they were properly secured by connectors and crimped. Then retraced all the splices if any that maybe lose, but everything was fine and secured. I am thinking it might the Ballast but not sure. Another symptom is that when i turn on my lights at night first, both fogs come on, but when i start the car the fog on the driver side like i mention turns off completely. Anyone have this happened to them when they installed their HID fogs?
04-23-2008, 09:48 PM
#5773
So today i went back and checked all the wiring for my HID fogs and even redid some to make sure they were properly secured by connectors and crimped. Then retraced all the splices if any that maybe lose, but everything was fine and secured. I am thinking it might the Ballast but not sure. Another symptom is that when i turn on my lights at night first, both fogs come on, but when i start the car the fog on the driver side like i mention turns off completely. Anyone have this happened to them when they installed their HID fogs?
04-24-2008, 06:14 AM
#5774
04-24-2008, 06:17 AM
#5775
Thanks for the input
I checked carfax and it's clear, so I supposed the accident was settled outside. Other than the brakes and the steering wheel not centered (I guess it needs an alignment), the car drove fine. I didn't really test the suspension fully, but I think there was some faint 'knocking'-like noise from the front when going over potholes... could this be bad shocks, or ball joint??
I checked carfax and it's clear, so I supposed the accident was settled outside. Other than the brakes and the steering wheel not centered (I guess it needs an alignment), the car drove fine. I didn't really test the suspension fully, but I think there was some faint 'knocking'-like noise from the front when going over potholes... could this be bad shocks, or ball joint??
Knocking noise typically means bad strut mount. 35$ or so. Not so easy to fix. I replaced mine @ 35k, and that sound returned within 1k, went away in 3k, hasn't returned since.
It's a good item to repalce when you repalce the struts, other than that not a huge deal other than the sound.
04-24-2008, 07:23 AM
#5776
Steering wheel issue will be fixed by an alignment.
Knocking noise typically means bad strut mount. 35$ or so. Not so easy to fix. I replaced mine @ 35k, and that sound returned within 1k, went away in 3k, hasn't returned since. It's a good item to repalce when you repalce the struts, other than that not a huge deal other than the sound.
Knocking noise typically means bad strut mount. 35$ or so. Not so easy to fix. I replaced mine @ 35k, and that sound returned within 1k, went away in 3k, hasn't returned since.
It's a good item to repalce when you repalce the struts, other than that not a huge deal other than the sound.Thanks, it's good to know that it's not a big issue. I'll probably go ahead with this car..
04-24-2008, 01:45 PM
#5777
Quick Question for my 2000/2001 Drivers Injen Cai Or Berk Intake With Jwt Filter..WHich On Is better....I was Thinking about Using the BErk Intake with Jwt filter in the summer and Injen Cai In the fall/Winter..Let me know what you drivers think
04-24-2008, 01:47 PM
#5778
Injen CAI is a very bad design. I would go w/ the Berk/JWT hybrid all year round.
04-24-2008, 05:18 PM
#5781
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 1
low rpm @ startup
everyday when i start my car [01 SE] the rpms slowly drop to around 400 or less and the car sputters and sounds like its about to stall but doesnt. after a few minutes, the rpms will shoot back up and everything is fine. but if i try to drive it before it shoots back up, the car bucks and acts terribly. Is it my MAF? help!! I have 98k and still on original MAF. Thanks so much in advance.
04-24-2008, 06:46 PM
#5783
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 404
so today i heard this pretty nice little squeak coming from under the hood. I noticed that it only made the noise when the a/c is on. It sounds like it's comin from the radiator fans in the very front of the engine right behind the grill. What are my options? it's still spinning well, so could i just wd40 it? any suggestions?
04-24-2008, 08:09 PM
#5784
berk with apexi is what you want
why would you go to the trouble to change your setup twice a year when both setups give the exact same minimal results?
04-25-2008, 01:23 AM
#5785
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 213
im looking into the TS ECU. i know most people decide just to go with the l-spec, but im not sure. I have the SSIM done and IM spacers, so i was thinking about going with the z33 CVTC map since that would help in the midrange. also i am going to request the z33 ignition timing curve. for anybody that has such a combo, what do you think? i know its a stretch for the extra bucks and thats why im asking if it would be worth it.
Nmex, have you ever regretted your choice and wished you had just gotten an l-spec and lived without the z33 vtc map?
any comments on revving to 7100 on stock bottom end? not planning to get ARP bolts yet and i know i should, but am i safe to 7100 on stock bottom?
Nmex, have you ever regretted your choice and wished you had just gotten an l-spec and lived without the z33 vtc map?
any comments on revving to 7100 on stock bottom end? not planning to get ARP bolts yet and i know i should, but am i safe to 7100 on stock bottom?
04-25-2008, 05:13 AM
#5787
04-25-2008, 05:27 AM
#5788
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 14
Timing Covers: 4TH Gen DE covers on 5TH Gen DE-K?
From the looks of the service manual diagrams, the DE and DE-K front and rear timing covers are the same. Anyone have real-world experience with this? Do they interchange?
04-25-2008, 06:17 AM
#5789
Originally Posted by sunstream453
also i am going to request the z33 ignition timing curve. for anybody that has such a combo, what do you think? i know its a stretch for the extra bucks and thats why im asking if it would be worth it.
They will, however, give you the Z33 CVTC map.
Originally Posted by sunstream453
Nmex, have you ever regretted your choice and wished you had just gotten an l-spec and lived without the z33 vtc map?
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...79&postcount=6
Short answer,
04-25-2008, 06:32 AM
#5790
04-25-2008, 10:08 AM
#5791
I've seen a ot of discussion about the CD ERRF0 code, but no mention of CD ERR F3, which is what i've been getting occassionaly. Is there something specific about the codes or does the stock 6 CD changer just suck?
04-25-2008, 12:32 PM
#5792
04-25-2008, 01:39 PM
#5794
04-25-2008, 04:23 PM
#5795
Originally Posted by kjchevy3
Interesting, this isn't happening with burned CD's however. So far they have all been purchased ones.
04-25-2008, 05:56 PM
#5796
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 1
Where to get coil connectors
One of the pushdown/popup connectors for the coil-on-plug units is broken on my 2000 Maxima. 
Does anyone know where I can get a new connector to splice in place of the broken one? I obviously don't want to replace the whole wiring harness.
Does anyone know where I can get a new connector to splice in place of the broken one? I obviously don't want to replace the whole wiring harness.
04-25-2008, 05:59 PM
#5797
04-25-2008, 08:53 PM
#5798
I bought an entire harness for 75$ ( www.car-part.com )and use it as I need it. Comes in very handy at times like that ^^
04-25-2008, 09:44 PM
#5799
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 14
Hi Guys, wondering if i can get any advice? So here is my deal.......
I have a 2000 maxima gle with 125k miles on it, i bought with 115k on it
My cars SES, TCS, and SLIP lights are on.
The SES has recently started flashing sometimes while driving.
When my car is stopped it begins or when im driving slow u can feel it shaking.
The OBD 2 scanner gives codes of p1320 p0300 and p0430, multiple cylinder misfire, random misfire, and catalytic converter needing to be replaced. Sometimes when i try to accelerate over 40mph, it gets stuck at 2000rpms and does not want to go over. Im thinking i need to replace my coil pack (they dont have gray dots on them) I replaced spark plugs but still getting the same issue. TCS and SLIP lights only come on when the feels like shaking. What do you guys think? All help will be appreciated, thanks in advance.
I have a 2000 maxima gle with 125k miles on it, i bought with 115k on it
My cars SES, TCS, and SLIP lights are on.
The SES has recently started flashing sometimes while driving.
When my car is stopped it begins or when im driving slow u can feel it shaking.
The OBD 2 scanner gives codes of p1320 p0300 and p0430, multiple cylinder misfire, random misfire, and catalytic converter needing to be replaced. Sometimes when i try to accelerate over 40mph, it gets stuck at 2000rpms and does not want to go over. Im thinking i need to replace my coil pack (they dont have gray dots on them) I replaced spark plugs but still getting the same issue. TCS and SLIP lights only come on when the feels like shaking. What do you guys think? All help will be appreciated, thanks in advance.