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5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread

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Old 03-19-2009, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by ridinwitha35
If I have loose sway bar endlinks, would that cause the car to seem like it wants to steer itself depending on the contour of road? I know the crown of the road has something to do with it but I could be on a mostly flat road with just some uneven surfaces or bumps and the car seems like it tries to steer itself. Or what problems would loose endlinks make me encounter?
When my sway bar endlinks went (twice) the only symptom I had was a front end clunk. I had nothing of what you're suggesting. Is this something new to your car? You may need an alignment.
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Old 03-19-2009, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by C-Young
I really want to get rid of the ugly amber/orange blinkers in my 02 headlight.

I saw somewhere that you're supposed to put the headlight casing in the oven. Is there another way? Or is everyone baking theire casing to put a clear lens in?

Seems like a scary tactic
I used a heat gun around the the seam and a small screw driver...the oven seems to work for a lot of people tho



Originally Posted by rdcisneros3
Thanks. He didn't do any mods, so he must be confused. I appreciate it.

Oh yeah, and...ooh-rah, devil.
LOL RAH
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Old 03-19-2009, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by C-Young
I really want to get rid of the ugly amber/orange blinkers in my 02 headlight.

I saw somewhere that you're supposed to put the headlight casing in the oven. Is there another way? Or is everyone baking theire casing to put a clear lens in?

Seems like a scary tactic
The oven technique is very easy and it's a no brainer. Its a set it and forget process. Instead of having to hold a heat gun and move it around the housing, the oven technique EVENLY heats the entire housing without guessing if you've overheated one spot or under heated another or both. It takes away the guess work as long you follow the directions that are in the retrofit threads.

I've done it twice without any problem.

Have you searched the projector retrofit threads for instructions to open the housings? If you follow the directions in these threads you'll have no problem with the oven technique.
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Old 03-20-2009, 04:50 AM
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Bed in the brakes

Originally Posted by rroderiques77
Cryo treated rotors will not last longer. They just dont warp as easily.

You need to find out why the brakes are prematurely wearing out. Is it only the rears wearing out? Who is telling you this? Is it a shop? Is there uneven wear on the pads.

Need more info than what you're providing.
Hi. Since there was no grinding or other indication of failure, only that annoying pulsating effect...

...the other night I found a quiet stretch of highway and ran the "bed in" process on the brakes. 60mph and hard stop to 10mph without locking or fully stopping, then immediately over again 7 more times.

My brakes are quite smooth now. Go figure.

My wife thought I was nuts to do this, but it sure seems to have cleaned and set the rotors to the pads.
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Old 03-20-2009, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Progress
When my sway bar endlinks went (twice) the only symptom I had was a front end clunk. I had nothing of what you're suggesting. Is this something new to your car? You may need an alignment.
I do have the clunk, it just feels loose like a small bump causes not massive, but unnecessary body roll. I was wondering if that would have an effect on steering control.

Well, the car is new to me (newer than my Join Date). I know I probably need an alignment but was gonna wait til I got new tires. My plan is: Moog endlinks, new tires, get alignment, FSTB & RSB.
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Old 03-20-2009, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by pmohr
The rims don't really have anything to do with ride quality, the tires affect that.

How heavy are they with tires? That'll give you an indicator of any performance loss there might be.
The rims alone are 19.8lbs. Tires I am looking at are 21lbs. So that puts total package at approx 41lbs, unless I need to account for the air filling the tires under high pressure? The tires are of a lower profile being at 215 45 17. I guess I was concerned with a bumpy ride, and having to watch every little bump.
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Old 03-20-2009, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by ridinwitha35
I do have the clunk, it just feels loose like a small bump causes not massive, but unnecessary body roll. I was wondering if that would have an effect on steering control.

Well, the car is new to me (newer than my Join Date). I know I probably need an alignment but was gonna wait til I got new tires. My plan is: Moog endlinks, new tires, get alignment, FSTB & RSB.
Dont forget the swaybar subframe bushings. Very easy to do while doing the endlinks at the same time. I recommend the ES bushings.....23mm for SE or 22mm for GLE/GXE.
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Old 03-20-2009, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Teddie18
The oven technique is very easy and it's a no brainer. Its a set it and forget process. Instead of having to hold a heat gun and move it around the housing, the oven technique EVENLY heats the entire housing without guessing if you've overheated one spot or under heated another or both. It takes away the guess work as long you follow the directions that are in the retrofit threads.

I've done it twice without any problem.

Have you searched the projector retrofit threads for instructions to open the housings? If you follow the directions in these threads you'll have no problem with the oven technique.
Thanks bro... Yeah I've looked at those threads detailing the lens replacement. I was just curious if that was indeed the best way and if anyone's had problems with it.

BTW... My Headers arrived today. So psyched!

Do ya'll think this setup is decent on a 2k2 SE?

1. Injen CAI
2. OBX v2 Headers
3. B-pipe
3. Cattman Catback

All my engine mods so far. Any other recommendations for performance?
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Old 03-20-2009, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by C-Young
Thanks bro... Yeah I've looked at those threads detailing the lens replacement. I was just curious if that was indeed the best way and if anyone's had problems with it.

BTW... My Headers arrived today. So psyched!

Do ya'll think this setup is decent on a 2k2 SE?

1. Injen CAI
2. OBX v2 Headers
3. B-pipe
3. Cattman Catback

All my engine mods so far. Any other recommendations for performance?
You're lucky you're not in CALIFORNIA like me otherwise I think you couldn't install any of that.
So here I am in CA & for all I know my car's running like crap possibly because of all kinds clogs & restrictions in the exhaust system but can't do a darn thing thanks to Arnold Crapzenegger.

Last edited by capframe; 03-20-2009 at 03:11 PM.
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Old 03-20-2009, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by C-Young
Thanks bro... Yeah I've looked at those threads detailing the lens replacement. I was just curious if that was indeed the best way and if anyone's had problems with it.

BTW... My Headers arrived today. So psyched!

Do ya'll think this setup is decent on a 2k2 SE?

1. Injen CAI
2. OBX v2 Headers
3. B-pipe
3. Cattman Catback

All my engine mods so far. Any other recommendations for performance?
udp, vias delete, thermal spacers, timing advance, and tune for power type stuff

then sway bar, springs/struts or coilovers, and fstb...not in that order particularly
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Old 03-20-2009, 10:29 PM
  #8011  
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What is everyone using to clear the turn signal on the 5.5gen headlights?
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Old 03-20-2009, 11:55 PM
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you go can to home depot and pick up a clear circle reflector and grind it a bit to fit...or just pop the plastic piece out and get switch back leds so they look white until you blink
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Old 03-21-2009, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Progress
When my sway bar endlinks went (twice) the only symptom I had was a front end clunk. I had nothing of what you're suggesting. Is this something new to your car? You may need an alignment.
After getting an alignment, just found out I had belt separation in my tires (along with 5/32" of tread)...that probably explains the "auto-steer".
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Old 03-21-2009, 11:29 AM
  #8014  
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Originally Posted by Stormzusmc
you go can to home depot and pick up a clear circle reflector and grind it a bit to fit...or just pop the plastic piece out and get switch back leds so they look white until you blink
Yeah, I thought that whate everyone was using...thanks, d00d
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Old 03-21-2009, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by ridinwitha35
After getting an alignment, just found out I had belt separation in my tires (along with 5/32" of tread)...that probably explains the "auto-steer".
So you're riding on new rubber, I assume? Symptoms gone?
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Old 03-21-2009, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Progress
So you're riding on new rubber, I assume? Symptoms gone?
Nah still on the old tires. And lucky me, I caught a flat today. I'll hopefully get some new ones Monday but if I don't, I'll have to wait a whole week 'cause I'll be out of town for the whole week (Spring Break). Doesn't seem like the alignment did anything...that's kinda obvious though because the various effects of bad tires make an alignment pointless if you're seeking to correct some anomaly.
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Old 03-21-2009, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by ridinwitha35
Nah still on the old tires. And lucky me, I caught a flat today. I'll hopefully get some new ones Monday but if I don't, I'll have to wait a whole week 'cause I'll be out of town for the whole week (Spring Break). Doesn't seem like the alignment did anything...that's kinda obvious though because the various effects of bad tires make an alignment pointless if you're seeking to correct some anomaly.
Drive extra safely in the interim. Does the tire warranty cover the defect?
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Old 03-22-2009, 04:15 PM
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I have both rear O2 sensors throwing codes. I know the TSB always recommends changing both out which is no big deal, but it also states that the ECU has to be reprogrammed (with Consult II). Is this really necessary? I just want to buy the sensors, install them myself, and clear the codes out. What is the ECU reprogramming about that will allow the stealership to rip me a new one?
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Old 03-22-2009, 05:20 PM
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Help plz

Hello
I have a 2001 nissan Max
I can not get my shifter out of park the buttion will not push in I have to use my key in the Auto shifter to put it in nutral then start the car.
can any one help me out?
I have a 2001 Max with 132000 on it.
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Old 03-22-2009, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by den1372
Hello
I have a 2001 nissan Max
I can not get my shifter out of park the buttion will not push in I have to use my key in the Auto shifter to put it in nutral then start the car.
can any one help me out?
I have a 2001 Max with 132000 on it.
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...tuck-park.html

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...tuck-park.html
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Old 03-22-2009, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by den1372
Hello
I have a 2001 nissan Max
I can not get my shifter out of park the buttion will not push in I have to use my key in the Auto shifter to put it in nutral then start the car.
can any one help me out?
I have a 2001 Max with 132000 on it.
While pressing the brake pedal and not being able to shift out of park, see if your brake lights are working (you may need someone to stand behind the car if you can't see any reflection of the lights). If they don't, your problem is the brake light switch.
Check the link below for similar symptons (there's a How-to at the end):
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ht-switch.html

Last edited by Nelsito65; 03-22-2009 at 07:50 PM.
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Old 03-22-2009, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by scrhale
I have both rear O2 sensors throwing codes. I know the TSB always recommends changing both out which is no big deal, but it also states that the ECU has to be reprogrammed (with Consult II). Is this really necessary? I just want to buy the sensors, install them myself, and clear the codes out. What is the ECU reprogramming about that will allow the stealership to rip me a new one?
Unless you have the California spec there is only one rear O2 sensor and I have never heard of replacing them both at the same time (then again, mine is Federal so that might be why).

The rear O2 is not used for performance, so there really isn't a reason why you would need the ECU reprogrammed. It only monitors catalytic converter performance (if I am wrong someone please correct me). Getting it reprogrammed at the dealer is an hour worht of labor.

Your front O2 sensors are a different story...
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Old 03-22-2009, 10:41 PM
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I'm new here for the third time, my user names were 02nismaxlegend94, and maximumrespect i totally forgot my passwords.

but this is my question i replaced my ecm on my 6-speed two weeks ago, after my original was deemed faulty by the dealer. my new reprogrammed ecm is working great, but i have a pending code p1800 vias solenoid problem. too put it plain the butterfly doesn't open because of no vacuum from the vias. i'm doing the NWP bypass as soon as the plate arrives, but the question is, what is done to the plug after all the rest of the associated vias components are elimininated?

i bypassed the vacuum from the soleniod, so the butterfly is open once the engine is running, but the code is still open since the signal is not getting through the soleniod itself. this code is causing me not to pass the Cali smog, any help appreciated.Mark

Last edited by 02nismaxlegnd94; 03-25-2009 at 10:51 PM.
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Old 03-23-2009, 05:47 AM
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Originally Posted by che_beaver
Unless you have the California spec there is only one rear O2 sensor and I have never heard of replacing them both at the same time (then again, mine is Federal so that might be why).

The rear O2 is not used for performance, so there really isn't a reason why you would need the ECU reprogrammed. It only monitors catalytic converter performance (if I am wrong someone please correct me). Getting it reprogrammed at the dealer is an hour worht of labor.

Your front O2 sensors are a different story...
http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb...=2002&tsb=none

Definitely two rear O2s. Select the O2 TSB in the link above. I should have been more specific. I have a 2002 6SPD Maxima. If you read the TSB, it says change both (underlined) and then reprogram the ECM. I know rear O2 is only for emissions which is why I have ignored it for so long, but that amber light is just making me mad now and I refuse to unplug it.
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Old 03-23-2009, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by pmohr
5.5?

There's a little vacuum switching solenoid valve on the front of the UIM, it activates the butterfly.

PN 14955-8J10A. Obviously you'd want to get it somewhere other than Nissan, as it's $160.29 @ Courtesy

You can probably get it for $20 or so in the classifieds.
Thanks pmohr, I got a replacement control valve from another member for exactly that price...and my P1800 code is gone & hasn't come back after clearing it. I know it's good because with the old valve, I would clear it and the code would be back on the next startup. Did about 6-8 startups & ~50 miles and it hasn't come back yet.

Unfortunately I ended up buying a VIAS solenoid due to not ordering the right thing...lol.
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Old 03-23-2009, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by scrhale
http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb...=2002&tsb=none

Definitely two rear O2s. Select the O2 TSB in the link above. I should have been more specific. I have a 2002 6SPD Maxima. If you read the TSB, it says change both (underlined) and then reprogram the ECM. I know rear O2 is only for emissions which is why I have ignored it for so long, but that amber light is just making me mad now and I refuse to unplug it.
I am not a Nissan mechanic, but my guess is that they replace both so that you only have to come to the dealership once since, in theory, they should both fail at about the same time. I don't know the specifics of the software update so I won't guess on if it is really necessary. I would guess, though, that the update is for more than the O2 sensors and while the dealership has the car it is just more convenient to update the ECM than have you come back a second time.

Have you replaced your MAF yet? On 2000's (which I have) they fail frequently and require a replacement and a reprogram. If you haven't and think you need to (I am not sure if the 2002's have the same problem), I wouldn't replace your O2 sensors until you do your MAF and have your ECM reprogrammed. If one still throws a code I would just replace that one.

Sorry, that is about the end of my experience. I replaced all three O2 sensors before I replaced the MAF and updated the ECM. Car has run fine ever since.
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Old 03-23-2009, 08:06 PM
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Vias needed asap, i cant post a wtb thread, please help. purchased a bypass plate, but need solenoid valve to pass California smog, failed first attempt after pendind p1800 code.

i'll even rent one from someone for a few hours, just to pass the test. all other parameters passed with flying colors, i just need to have the code cleared.

i erased it numerous times but its still pending. any help appreciated.

Last edited by 02nismaxlegnd94; 03-25-2009 at 10:53 PM.
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Old 03-23-2009, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by maracura91
Vais needed asap, i cant post a wtb thread, please help.
Once you have enough posts, you can make your own WTB thread.

It's not a critical component, you'll be fine driving around without it for however long it takes you to find one.
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Old 03-23-2009, 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by maracura91
I need the help of a moderator, after searching for my old username i finally found it,how can I go about restoring my original account. My original email address has been closed over a year ago. So trying to recover it through email is impossible. Can a mod cantact me, being new again is not fun. I've been here since 10-12-06 username 02nismaxlegnd94. Thanks
Just PM a mod or admin, you'll get a lot faster response than waiting for one to see your post here. An admin would be your best bet.
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Old 03-24-2009, 11:14 AM
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I was wondering if four rear G35/Z rims would be too wide for the wheel wells? I really don't like the idea of a staggered FWD car (seems a little on the rice side)... Any input is greatly appreciated!
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Old 03-24-2009, 02:26 PM
  #8031  
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i have searched a lot and was wondering if a 350z supercharger would be able to fit on a 3.5 and would clear the hood? i do not mean the s/c that looks like a turbo i mean the one that sits where the intake mani sits?
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Old 03-24-2009, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by TakeIt2TheMAX
I was wondering if four rear G35/Z rims would be too wide for the wheel wells? I really don't like the idea of a staggered FWD car (seems a little on the rice side)... Any input is greatly appreciated!
Four fronts will work.
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Old 03-24-2009, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by diverdown3
Four fronts will work.
ok, another question. Will the stock 350Z 17's fit over the 6th gen/300ZX BBK?
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Old 03-24-2009, 06:47 PM
  #8034  
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hi im new to this forum and have a question. when i gas my car i hear like clinking metal can noises. it doesnt do it all the time. I currently just moved to Vegas. Is there anybody that i can trust here and what can i do? Need help please thanks!!!
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Old 03-24-2009, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by kpmikey808
hi im new to this forum and have a question. when i gas my car i hear like clinking metal can noises. it doesnt do it all the time. I currently just moved to Vegas. Is there anybody that i can trust here and what can i do? Need help please thanks!!!
As in pinging? I assume you're using high octane?

Anyway, for local advice you need to check your regional section.
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Old 03-25-2009, 06:39 AM
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I have a 2002 Maxima SE 6-speed. My problem is at the start up, especially when the car is cold, the car need a little push on the gas pedal in order for it not to stall. When you start the car, the RPMs go high up and right away drop to 500 first and then 0.. so if I won't give it some gas it just dies. Whats weird is that once i give it some RPMs it doesnot stall anywhere on the road.
Please throw in your sugestions... My first guess was the sprak plugs.. but then mechanic told me it doesnot look like a simple sprark plugs problem. I'm guessing it has something to do with the fuel pump or somewhere around that area.

Thanks again

P.S. Oh yeah forgot to mention that milage is pretty high on it...over 270 000 km

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Old 03-25-2009, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by 02shiftmaxima
I have a 2002 Maxima SE 6-speed. My problem is at the start up, especially when the car is cold, the car need a little push on the gas pedal in order for it not to stall. When you start the car, the RPMs go high up and right away drop to 500 first and then 0.. so if I won't give it some gas it just dies. Whats weird is that once i give it some RPMs it doesnot stall anywhere on the road.
Please throw in your sugestions... My first guess was the sprak plugs.. but then mechanic told me it doesnot look like a simple sprark plugs problem. I'm guessing it has something to do with the fuel pump or somewhere around that area.

Thanks again

P.S. Oh yeah forgot to mention that milage is pretty high on it...over 270 000 km
IACV.
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Old 03-25-2009, 08:12 AM
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vroom vroom!!!
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Old 03-25-2009, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Progress
IACV.
Not on an '02...

First thing I would do is an IAVL, personally.
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Old 03-25-2009, 11:24 AM
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hey...how do you kno if a 02 se 6speed has lsd? vin number or sumthing?
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