SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

a flush would only be good for it...but there are ways to do it yourself for cheaper

vrdublu

Lotsa road noise in my 2003 max se, seems to be coming from the back, and yes I got the window issues solved, now just gotta figure out where the road noise is coming from. Any ideas? don't hesitate to share.

mandyfig

What kind of noise? How did you know if you had the window noise fixed?

00_Maxima

I am new here I have a 2000 Maxima GLE and I recently started having starting problems with it. When it gets really cold it won't start at all. But when it does start it will rev up to about 2 grand then drop down and totally die. I replace all six coils along with all new plugs and it starts better but now I am getting a engine misfire what could be causing this? Also you go to accelerate and the car will hesitate. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!

jbasalo302

so i ended up doing the engine flush...my light still came back, so i've sunk close to $900 trying to get rid of this light and no luck yet...i think im done!

CITYVIEW1

HEY I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF THE RAD SUPPORT IS WELDED IN OR BOLTED IN

Mr. Brett

iTrader: (7)

IT'S WELDED IN

Easy on the caps, man. But yes, it's welded in. If you're planning on replacing it, it needs to be cut out.

00_Maxima

How soon can I post?

mandyfig

Like what post?

You have to post replies at least 15 times. And then you can post a thread.

00_Maxima

I am still having problems with my 00 Maxima, I changed all the coils and all the plugs and now it says I still have a ignition problem and that my 02 sensor 1 is bad. Could this be causing my problems with misfire and not reving past 2 grand? I need help with this ASAP!!! Thanks

Nelsito65

You may need to post the actual code(s) your car is getting. Also give more details about the spark plugs used and weather the 6 coils were new or used, or where you got them (ebay vs. dealer or autoparts, etc.). Whay did you change all the coils in the first place? Mileage on your car? Not revving past 2k could be, among other things, a problem with your MAF sensor.

00_Maxima

I was getting the P1320 code, I ordered all new coils off of ebay and replaced them along with new plugs. This all started happening when it got really cold outside. Since I changed the plugs and coils it starts fine but just won't rev past 3 grand. The other code I was getting was one for the bank 1 O2 sensor.

b_wizzy

Hey fellow max owners. My name's Ant and just recently purchased my 5th gen SE. I ended up having to have the battery and terminal replaced which is all well and good, but my radio won't turn on. I've been told I need a code and if anyone knew as to how to find it, or get in contact with someone who has it? Any info at all would help...I'm new to this whole process.

P.S. I tried to search this problem but didn't find much in the forum

Z-Powered

New Maxima owner here. I just traded in my previous car for a 2002 Maxima SE in Sterling mist frost. (interesting name for that color) I've been reading this site for a while, and it seems like the 4 speed auto in the 5.5 gen Maximas are fragile. Is that true? And how reliable are Maximas after 150,000 miles? Thanks for any answers.

mandyfig

I have an 00 GLE 165k and going strong.

Z-Powered

^ Thanks for the reply. Do you have any tranny slipping at WOT? A lot of 5.5 gens on YouTube have that.

ovaldes

I am new to the site, I appreciate you setting this up.

Here is my question/problem:

My hood release on my '01 is not working. When pulled the hood will not pop up so I can access the release lever. I was going to check the fluids today and I can't get under the hood. I have tried to press down on the hood to reset it but nothing seems to be working.

Do you have any ideas?

Nelsito65

Do you hear anything disengaging? Have you tried with a helper (one pulling the release while the other pulls the hood up)?

mayhem34668

01 maxima se...Just replaced MAF sensor and car seems alive again ...no stumbling, runs nice and smooth again but won't idle...new maf is oem (nissan)...would the ECM need to be reprogrammed or reset or is there something else I should check...Thanx...Mayhem

badleroybrown

Hi-

I bought a 2000 Maxima GXE automatic with 120k miles on it last week. Its been stalling from a cold start up every morning. After I turn the key, the RPMs shoot up to about 2k+, then quickly go back down and the car stalls out.

If I give it gas when the RPMs drop and keep them up (1500+) for ~10mins the car warms up and runs perfectly fine. Subsequent starts throughout the day have been problem free. Vehicle runs really well after warmed up with no sign of hesitation, no acceleration or shifting problems.

No codes come up. My mechanic suggested replacing the sparkplugs (which he did and said the were shot & maybe original). This has not corrected the problem.

They have a few ideas as to what it could be, but I'm not interested in paying for them to experiment and try to get it right. Any ideas?

ovaldes

I have not tried with someone else pulling on the hood yet. It isn't making the hood "pop" sound when I pull it. I will try it tonight with my wife and let you know. Thanks.

AaronL

iTrader: (1)

Driving in to work today and I had my ABS/SLIP/TCS Off lights all come on. There is no change to drivability. The lights are off when I restart the car, but come back on as soon as I touch the brakes.

I want to pull the ABS codes so I can find out what's going on. The FSM says to ground pin 9 "with a suitable harness" - can I just ground pin 9 to chassis ground (pin 5)? Or should it be to signal ground (pin 4)?

fastman

iTrader: (1)

ok here is a question what is code p1157 mean, this is the code that they pulled at autozone. I searched here and google and it turned up nothing. As far as I am able to tell it is something to do with either the O2 or MAF sensors. I am very confused and would like to have this figured out. Or is it possible the guy at autozone just screwed up and pput a 5 where a 4 should have been?

VQP0WER

Maxima's don't have a P1157. They gave you the wrong #.

Ghost_54

iTrader: (13)

Unless he said the code was P0157

here's a code listing:
P0000
No Self Diagnostic Failure Indicated
P0100
MAF Sensor
P0105
Absolute Pressure Sensor
P0110
IAT Sensor
P0115
ECT Sensor
P0120
TP Sensor
P0125
ECT Sensor
P0130–P0134
Front HO2S Bank 1
P0135
Front HO2S Heater Bank 1
P0136–P0140
Rear HO2S
P0141
Rear HO2S Heater
P0150–P0154
Front HO2S Bank 2
P0155
Front HO2S Heater Bank 2
P0157-P0160
Rear HO2S Bank 2
P0161
Rear HO2S Heater Bank 2
P0170
Fuel Injection System Function
P0171
Fuel System Lean Bank 1
P0172
Fuel System Rich Bank 1
P0173
Fuel Injection System Function
P0174
Fuel System Lean Bank 2
P0175
Fuel System Rich Bank 2
P0180
Tank Fuel Temperature Sensor
P0300
Multiple Cylinder Misfire
P0301–P0306
Cylinder Misfire
P0325
Knock Sensor
P0335
CKP Sensor
P0340
CMP Sensor
P0400
EGR Function
P0402
EGRC-BPT Valve
P0403
EGR Volume Control Valve Circuit
P0420
TWC Function RH Bank
P0430
TWC Function LH Bank
P0440
EVAP Small Leak
P0443
Canister Purge Control/Solenoid Valve
P0446
Vent Control Valve
P0450
EVAP System Pressure Sensor
P0500
VSS
P0505
IAC-AAC Valve
P0510
CTP Switch
P0600
A/T Communication Line
P0605
ECM
P0705
PNP/Inhibitor Switch
P0710
Fluid Temperature Sensor
P0720
VSS
P0725
Engine Speed Signal
P0731
A/T 1st Signal
P0732
A/T 2nd Signal
P0733
A/T 3rd Signal
P0734
A/T 4th Signal Or TCC
P0740
TCC Solenoid Valve
P0744
A/T TCC Signal
P0745
Line Pressure Solenoid Valve
P0750
Shift Solenoid Valve ‘‘A’’
P0755
Shift Solenoid Valve ‘‘B’’
P1105
MAP/BARO Switch Solenoid Valve
P1130
Swirl Control Valve Control Solenoid Valve
P1148
Closed Loop RH Bank
P1165
Swirl Control Valve Control Vacuum Check Valve
P1168
Closed Loop LH Bank
P1220
FPCM
P1320
Ignition Signal Primary
P1335
CKP Sensor (REF)
P1336
CKP Sensor
P1400
EGR Control Solenoid Valve
P1401
EGR Temperature Sensor
P1402
EGR System
P1440
EVAP Small Leak
P1441
VC/V Bypass Valve
P1444
Purge Volume Control Valve
P1445
Purge Volume Control Valve
P1446
Vent Control Valve
P1447
EVAP Purge Flow Monitor
P1448
Vent Control Valve
P1490
Vacuum Cut Valve Bypass Valve
P1491
Vacuum Cut Bypass Valve
P1492
Purge Control Valve Solenoid Valve
P1493
Purge Control Valve & Solenoid Valve
P1605
A/T Diagnosis Communication Line
P1705
TP Sensor
P1706
Park/Neutral Position Switch Circuit
P1760
Overrun Clutch Solenoid Valve

mohakou

Looks like I'm not the only one. Bought this one bone stock last week w/167k miles. I have an engine code for an O2 sensor too. I'm not sure which one exactly since the previous owner pulled the code, but it could be the same one as 00 maxima's.

I think its my fault though since I was new at manual and going up a hill I failed and thought I stalled but really didn't. So being stupid I turned the key 4-5 times while the car was on.

Car has trouble starting in cold weather, but once I drive around and it warms up it will start. It does make some awkward noise when I start it... my dad's saying its a major repair but I wanted to check here first.

Once I get through this first round of repairs I'm modding the crap out of it, so you'll see me on here a lot I guess.

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

Wedge something between the hood & the bumper as to apply pressure, then pull the cabin release (if you don't have anyone around). Of course be careful & try not to scratch anything or put too much undue pressure.

Ghost_54

iTrader: (13)

If it was a P0157 here's the link on that one http://www.nissanhelp.com/diy/obd_codes/p0157.htm

mohakou

This morning it started when it was cold. Then I stopped for a few minutes and it didn't start back up. Didn't even hear the thing try to start just was silent when I turned the key. Rolled down a hill and got it to start then stalled on an uphill and same problem. Parked the car somewhere and I'm calling AAA to help later in the day. Wonder if anyone here has experienced the same kind of thing?

Nelsito65

You need to get the car scanned to get the actual code(s). Some autoparts do that for free. Be sure to make a note of the exact code(s) number(s) pulled, if any (not just "O2 code", etc.). Post back with that information. Also, be as detailed as you can when describing the kind of symptoms you are having.

homeyclaus

iTrader: (1)

If there is no "click" and the engine is not turning over, it's most likely your battery, and your starter is next most likely.

No other symptoms? Like the battery and brake light on while you were driving it around prior?

unrealii

iTrader: (8)

I concur, check the starter / battery first.

mohakou

I doubt its the battery. I put the radio on and got crystal-clear sound while the car was off. The battery looks new, no white spots no rust, nothing. I also flicked the lights and high beams and they were bright as normal. Battery light was never on when I drove it. It may be the starter, how do I check for that?

Thanks for all the help!

mohakou

The engine code was either P0138 or P0139.

Deckdout2

iTrader: (151)

My alternator finally went out. I had the same starting issues for months. Finally, it didn't even click. My starter was fine, and my battery was drained where it would not recharge anymore, because the alternator was faulty. Replaced both, and I haven't had a problem since.

mohakou

Previous owner said the alternator was a few months old. Could there be something else wrong with the car that's breaking the alternator?

Deckdout2

iTrader: (151)

I'm not sure of that one. My alternator was actually the culprit, and it made my battery go bad. I'm not sure if the reverse could occur or not.

NissanTun3r

iTrader: (3)

Hey guys, I did some searching and I am unable to find the answer to my question, which is one that I'm sure has been asked over and over again. Here it goes....

I have a 2000 maxima and I am about to buy a warpspeed y pipe, it asks me if I am cali spec or fed spec. How can I tell? lol

Again...I tried searching, and found some links to some "definitive" threads but they do not work so I am sol.

Papersleeves

Hi, I'm kind of new here but that's because I just got my first maxima. So I bought a 2002 nissan maxima gxe auto last week and I just got my first SES light (oops). Isn't that amazing ?

Anyway, when I got the car inspected, they told me that the air filter needed to be replaced asap (they showed it to me and it was indeed very dirty). I was planning to have the air filter replaced today (I barely drove the car since then), but surprise surprise, when I turned the engine on this morning, I got the SES light. I am really a car noob. I love my car, but I don't really know anything about the mechanic in it.

I was wondering if the dirty air filter could ignite the SES light (MAF sensor getting a bad read because of it) or if it has to be something more serious like an O2 or MAF sensors being defect. Thanks for any response guys !

2slow

iTrader: (6)

It shouldn't. Pull the code (Autozone does this for free) and report back.