5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
10-17-2010, 04:45 PM
im a newb here been commenting on some threads but cant seem to make a new thread, idk why? i have several problems with my 03 max that i have narrowed down to some research but one that i cant seem to figure out is that my check engine light does not turn on. i live in cali and when i got my smog done it failed because the guy told me i had some codes? i told him its not possible, the check engine light is not on. so i came home hooked up the scanner and sure enough had a code. i tried looking in the fuse boxes for a blown fuse or something but can seem to find anything. can anyone shed some light on what could be the problem? does the check engine light have its light bulb in the back of the cluster that was removed or possibly blown that i can replace? would appreciate the help my temporary permit is almost up i need to get this baby smogged again thanks in advance.
10-17-2010, 06:56 PM
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Location: Brandon, FL
Posts: 897
Also, as it was said, find out the exact codes and post back with that information.
10-17-2010, 07:00 PM
will report back. is taking the cluster out and replacing the buls a PITA? or is it a simple removal with a twist out bulb?
10-17-2010, 07:29 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Brandon, FL
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When I discovered that mine was missing, I went to a junkyard and got some of those bulbs out of an Infinity I30 cluster.
10-18-2010, 12:25 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 87
Stupid Shim kit question. Car was due for brakes and rotors. When taking off the old brake pads I noticed the last person to work on my car (not myself, I've never put brakes on this particular car) didn't reinstall the shim and shim cover. So I got a shim kit from the dealer. Problem is the kit comes with all four pad retainers, but 2 vented shims, and 6 shim covers. My question is what goes where and did I get shafted out of 2 more vented shims for the other side of the front of the car??
Here is what the kit I received had in it:
2 vented shims
2 black shim covers
2 silver shim covers
2 silver shim covers that look nothing like those in the FSM
Here is what the kit I received had in it:
2 vented shims
2 black shim covers
2 silver shim covers
2 silver shim covers that look nothing like those in the FSM
10-18-2010, 02:03 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Brandon, FL
Posts: 897
Stupid Shim kit question. Car was due for brakes and rotors. When taking off the old brake pads I noticed the last person to work on my car (not myself, I've never put brakes on this particular car) didn't reinstall the shim and shim cover. So I got a shim kit from the dealer. Problem is the kit comes with all four pad retainers, but 2 vented shims, and 6 shim covers. My question is what goes where and did I get shafted out of 2 more vented shims for the other side of the front of the car??
Here is what the kit I received had in it:
2 vented shims
2 black shim covers
2 silver shim covers
2 silver shim covers that look nothing like those in the FSM
Here is what the kit I received had in it:
2 vented shims
2 black shim covers
2 silver shim covers
2 silver shim covers that look nothing like those in the FSM
10-18-2010, 02:32 PM
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 87
Fair enough, here is a picture of the shim kit I received minus the pad retainers. My car is a 2000.
http://img830.imageshack.us/i/dscn0170iy.jpg/
http://img830.imageshack.us/i/dscn0170iy.jpg/
Last edited by Superduck; 10-18-2010 at 02:38 PM.
10-18-2010, 05:26 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Brandon, FL
Posts: 897
Fair enough, here is a picture of the shim kit I received minus the pad retainers. My car is a 2000.
http://img830.imageshack.us/i/dscn0170iy.jpg/
http://img830.imageshack.us/i/dscn0170iy.jpg/
On the top set, the big notch at the bottom seem to be there to accommodate the stubs that the rear inner pads have (those stubs need to be lined up with notches at the rear pistons). Then, I guess the second set from the top would be for the outer rear pads. I would assume that the bottom two sets would be for the front pads, although all 4 sets look like shims for pads the same size, and I know the front pads on our cars, are larger than the rear ones.
Again, this is all a guess.
I've been using ceramic pads from Autozone, for the 2+ years I've owned my car, and they all come with shims already attached.
FRONT............................................. ...........................REAR
Last edited by Nelsito65; 10-18-2010 at 05:38 PM.
10-19-2010, 07:38 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 87
@Nelsito65
I'm still waiting on a reply from the dealer parts guy who wasn't sure either. I bought wagner thermoquiets which don't have the shims, but I'm tempted to take all this back and just go buy some pads that have shims.....but I still wouldn't have the shim covers. Do you have the shim covers on yours?
I'm still waiting on a reply from the dealer parts guy who wasn't sure either. I bought wagner thermoquiets which don't have the shims, but I'm tempted to take all this back and just go buy some pads that have shims.....but I still wouldn't have the shim covers. Do you have the shim covers on yours?
10-19-2010, 08:06 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Brandon, FL
Posts: 897
@Nelsito65
I'm still waiting on a reply from the dealer parts guy who wasn't sure either. I bought wagner thermoquiets which don't have the shims, but I'm tempted to take all this back and just go buy some pads that have shims.....but I still wouldn't have the shim covers. Do you have the shim covers on yours?
I'm still waiting on a reply from the dealer parts guy who wasn't sure either. I bought wagner thermoquiets which don't have the shims, but I'm tempted to take all this back and just go buy some pads that have shims.....but I still wouldn't have the shim covers. Do you have the shim covers on yours?
EDIT: It may help you with the rest of the hardware you received.
Last edited by Nelsito65; 10-19-2010 at 08:11 AM.
10-19-2010, 03:57 PM
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Posts: 10
hey guys i've been a member for a long time, but never really came on after a while, was just a lurker. i've been trying to find a specific answer to this question for some time, and i cant get exactly what im trying to find. my question is: will 4th gen headers fit a de-k?
10-19-2010, 04:41 PM
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Moore, OK
Posts: 1,767
hey guys i've been a member for a long time, but never really came on after a while, was just a lurker. i've been trying to find a specific answer to this question for some time, and i cant get exactly what im trying to find. my question is: will 4th gen headers fit a de-k?
10-20-2010, 03:54 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 15
dear orgers,
I have a brake squeal and shimmy problem.
So I went ahead and got new front brake pads & rotors done.
With the new brake job, it took care of shimmy problem but I noticed the brakes squeal when braking at low speeds. Couple months later, brake pedal started pulsating so I thought it was due to rear brakes.
So I got the rear brake pads & rotors changed. This reduced the pulsating slightly (it still pulsates though not as bad). But, the shimmy and squealing came back, and seems to come from the front brakes!
Strange, how can replacing rear brakes ruin front brakes? Do midas, pepboys etc do a any useful brake inspection to solve this?
I have a brake squeal and shimmy problem.
So I went ahead and got new front brake pads & rotors done.
With the new brake job, it took care of shimmy problem but I noticed the brakes squeal when braking at low speeds. Couple months later, brake pedal started pulsating so I thought it was due to rear brakes.
So I got the rear brake pads & rotors changed. This reduced the pulsating slightly (it still pulsates though not as bad). But, the shimmy and squealing came back, and seems to come from the front brakes!
Strange, how can replacing rear brakes ruin front brakes? Do midas, pepboys etc do a any useful brake inspection to solve this?
10-20-2010, 05:33 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 4
Hello everyone im new to the forums. I own i 2003 AT max se with need of some work. Just finished getting back from nissan and running a diagnostic. It turns out that i need a new cluster because it has been tampered with. The service light was apparently disconnected by previous owner. They also told me that i need a new downpipe and engine mounts. Where can i find these parts at a decent price? Im pretty sure they can be found for cheaper than what nissan is charging. Or is it better to just stick with nissan and do everything at the dealer?
10-20-2010, 07:18 PM
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: West Chester, PA
Posts: 87
New 2002 GLE
Just bought a GLE 2002. Great miles - only 66K! I love all the bells and whistles, first car I've had with these many gadgets (heated steering wheel??)
Anyway - all is not perfect though it is close.
I am hearing a clunking sound whenever I hit an abrupt bump at lower speeds. Sounds like the passenger side. I assumed it was the strut mount or strut bearing, but it looks like someone changed the struts already to KYB GR-2s. Why would this need to be done already at only 66K?? Are Maximas known for going thru struts rather quickly?
Also, from searching it looks like people have this clunking issue fairly frequently. I've seen these given as reasons for the clunking:
**tie rod shot
**passenger side motor mount shot
**strut mount/bearing shot
**sway bar end links and bushings shot.
**LCAs worn out
I messed around a bit and couldn't rule all of these out so I guess a mechanic will have to look at it. Anyone have any other ideas?
The car also feels funny at times like there is a lot of play in the suspension and that things are just not "settled" down there. Since I've never driven new Maxima, I have no idea how out of the norm this is for this car. Are the LCA bushings known to fail early?
Thanks guys - I've enjoyed reading thru all your posts on these great cars and glad to have a community with experience with these cars.
Anyway - all is not perfect though it is close.
I am hearing a clunking sound whenever I hit an abrupt bump at lower speeds. Sounds like the passenger side. I assumed it was the strut mount or strut bearing, but it looks like someone changed the struts already to KYB GR-2s. Why would this need to be done already at only 66K?? Are Maximas known for going thru struts rather quickly?
Also, from searching it looks like people have this clunking issue fairly frequently. I've seen these given as reasons for the clunking:
**tie rod shot
**passenger side motor mount shot
**strut mount/bearing shot
**sway bar end links and bushings shot.
**LCAs worn out
I messed around a bit and couldn't rule all of these out so I guess a mechanic will have to look at it. Anyone have any other ideas?
The car also feels funny at times like there is a lot of play in the suspension and that things are just not "settled" down there. Since I've never driven new Maxima, I have no idea how out of the norm this is for this car. Are the LCA bushings known to fail early?
Thanks guys - I've enjoyed reading thru all your posts on these great cars and glad to have a community with experience with these cars.
10-21-2010, 06:00 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Moore, OK
Posts: 1,767
dear orgers,
I have a brake squeal and shimmy problem.
So I went ahead and got new front brake pads & rotors done.
With the new brake job, it took care of shimmy problem but I noticed the brakes squeal when braking at low speeds. Couple months later, brake pedal started pulsating so I thought it was due to rear brakes.
So I got the rear brake pads & rotors changed. This reduced the pulsating slightly (it still pulsates though not as bad). But, the shimmy and squealing came back, and seems to come from the front brakes!
Strange, how can replacing rear brakes ruin front brakes? Do midas, pepboys etc do a any useful brake inspection to solve this?
I have a brake squeal and shimmy problem.
So I went ahead and got new front brake pads & rotors done.
With the new brake job, it took care of shimmy problem but I noticed the brakes squeal when braking at low speeds. Couple months later, brake pedal started pulsating so I thought it was due to rear brakes.
So I got the rear brake pads & rotors changed. This reduced the pulsating slightly (it still pulsates though not as bad). But, the shimmy and squealing came back, and seems to come from the front brakes!
Strange, how can replacing rear brakes ruin front brakes? Do midas, pepboys etc do a any useful brake inspection to solve this?
If your brakes are still pulsating, you may have not bed your brakes in properly. Pepboiys, etc should be able to determine the issue fairly quickly.
10-21-2010, 06:02 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Moore, OK
Posts: 1,767
If the noise tends to go away with the increase of RPM, it probably is your timing chain hitting the chain cover. This is fairly common. The timing chain tensioner typically needs to be replaced.
If it comes when turning the wheel, it's might be your CV joints.
10-21-2010, 11:42 AM
We have a local fella on here that sells Nissan parts for fairly reasonable prices. You could also try Courtesy Nissan 
For the mounts, you can get ES mounts but they are stiffer, and judging from you (3) posts, you’re not into performance or anything of the like, seems as if you just want to fix the problem. You could also get parts from wholesale places like thepartsbin.com, etc. IS your best friend.
For the down pipe, I would ask for further analysis or diagnostics. Does he mean your pre-cat?
I’m not sure how much the cluster is or would be, but I would check with junk yards (www.car-parts.com). Or Daveb or Courtesy.
If you’re a DIY type of person, the downpipe and engine mounts are fairly easy. The dash is easy to if you’re only removing the dash and not individual gauge needles. Pretty much plug and play.
What exactly did they tell you about the downpipe?
For the mounts, you can get ES mounts but they are stiffer, and judging from you (3) posts, you’re not into performance or anything of the like, seems as if you just want to fix the problem. You could also get parts from wholesale places like thepartsbin.com, etc.
IS your best friend. For the down pipe, I would ask for further analysis or diagnostics. Does he mean your pre-cat?
I’m not sure how much the cluster is or would be, but I would check with junk yards (www.car-parts.com). Or Daveb or Courtesy.
If you’re a DIY type of person, the downpipe and engine mounts are fairly easy. The dash is easy to if you’re only removing the dash and not individual gauge needles. Pretty much plug and play.
What exactly did they tell you about the downpipe?
10-21-2010, 11:58 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 4
Thanks for the reply. And I want to get into performance but after i fix the main issues. They really did not tell me much about the down pipe. Just that it needs replacing. 1150 for parts and labor.
I plan on visiting local junkyards to find a speedo gauge, but will that mean the speedo would reflect the mileage that its original car had? is there any way to reflect my current mileage with a new cluster?
they also told me i need a vent control valve and that my oil cooler seal is leaking. are these ultra priority fixes?
Sorry for all the newb questions but i really want to know the best way to go about this, seeing as that im kinda broke.
I plan on visiting local junkyards to find a speedo gauge, but will that mean the speedo would reflect the mileage that its original car had? is there any way to reflect my current mileage with a new cluster?
they also told me i need a vent control valve and that my oil cooler seal is leaking. are these ultra priority fixes?
Sorry for all the newb questions but i really want to know the best way to go about this, seeing as that im kinda broke.
10-21-2010, 01:39 PM
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 15
Does this noise happen more when idling, or at any engine RPM? Does it click when you turn the wheels only?
If the noise tends to go away with the increase of RPM, it probably is your timing chain hitting the chain cover. This is fairly common. The timing chain tensioner typically needs to be replaced.
If it comes when turning the wheel, it's might be your CV joints.
If the noise tends to go away with the increase of RPM, it probably is your timing chain hitting the chain cover. This is fairly common. The timing chain tensioner typically needs to be replaced.
If it comes when turning the wheel, it's might be your CV joints.
The clicking gets faster as I put more gas. Id does not matter whether or not I'm turning, driving or idling. The clicking is always there.
thanks
10-21-2010, 05:43 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: buffalo
Posts: 14
hi I was told to post this question here. I have a 2000 nissan maxima auto se at 92K miles. Lately it's been sluggish on the acceleration. It would jerk once I start steppin on the gas, but after that, it would run fine. I even had the SES light on for a day (three days ago), and the next day, it just miracously turned off. Ignition coils were replaced so that shouldnt be the problem..
I've been reading around and not sure if it's: 1) spark plugs 2) MAF sensor 3) clogged fuel filter.
any suggestions?
I've been reading around and not sure if it's: 1) spark plugs 2) MAF sensor 3) clogged fuel filter.
any suggestions?
10-21-2010, 06:32 PM
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Moore, OK
Posts: 1,767
hi I was told to post this question here. I have a 2000 nissan maxima auto se at 92K miles. Lately it's been sluggish on the acceleration. It would jerk once I start steppin on the gas, but after that, it would run fine. I even had the SES light on for a day (three days ago), and the next day, it just miracously turned off. Ignition coils were replaced so that shouldnt be the problem..
I've been reading around and not sure if it's: 1) spark plugs 2) MAF sensor 3) clogged fuel filter.
any suggestions?
I've been reading around and not sure if it's: 1) spark plugs 2) MAF sensor 3) clogged fuel filter.
any suggestions?
10-22-2010, 12:47 PM
10-22-2010, 03:57 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: buffalo
Posts: 14
Today I was driving at 65-70mph and the tachometer only showed around 2000rpm. Is that normal or atypical?
10-22-2010, 06:33 PM
Wheel Bearing question?????
I'm about to have my right front wheel bearing replaced on my 2000 GXE. I see on the Advanced auto website the have the hub assembly, and a hub. It looks like the bearing is already in the hub assembly but with the hub its missing the bearing. I could be wrong. I did go to the Courtesy Parts website and the sell just the hub for $64. I wondering if I can just get the hub and have the bearing pressed in as this may lower my repair cost. I dont know how much it cost to press in the bearing. My repair guy said that he can install hub for around $100 with the bearing already pressed in. Any advice excluding installing hub myself as I currently do not have the proper tools to do this job.......
Last edited by Twokidsandadad; 10-24-2010 at 12:33 PM.
10-22-2010, 06:59 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 9
Muffler installed, SES light comes on
Hey I just bought a 2002 maxima a month ago. Still a little new to Nissans. Today I got a Magnaflow muffler installed on the car and while I was driving home from the shop the SES light came on. What would cause this? I only got the muffler put on, not an entire cat back or anything, so i wouldn't think it would mess with any sensors.. Anyone have any ideas?
10-23-2010, 04:55 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 39
I know this a stupid question, but I can't find a straight answer using the search button -- is cylinder 5 the one on the top righ if I'm looking in the engine bay? In other words, is the front of the engine where the oil filter is? Thanks