slomb

Thanks it's what I thought

Nelsito65

Since you don't specify whether your car is automatic or manual transmission, if it is auto, next time you have the starting issue (with no clicking or whirring), try pushing the gear selector lever as far as it can go towards to P and see if that helps. I had a similar issue with a '98 maxima and ended up being a defective ignition switch.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Rears are struts just like the front. 6th gens and above have shocks in the rear, J30/A32/A33 all have rear struts.

everysandwich

Hi, folks. I have a 2000 GLE that lately started running rough in the mornings, though it's better after it warms up. It's had a tune-up and the injectors cleaned, yet still idles rough. I don't know if this is related, but I hear an odd sound when it's struggling to warm up, which I've recorded. I thought someone might recognize the sound and have a clue from it. There was no one pressing the accelerator while this was recorded. Sporadically you'll hear something that sounds to me like something trying to spray air or gas, maybe. Or possibly a vacuum leak? I'm clueless and guessing though. Here's the audio. Thanks so much for any help. Hope I haven't violated a forum rule already.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Oh, really? Every time I have purchased shocks/struts they have always been labeled as shocks....

Nelsito65

My 5th generation has shocks in the rear, not struts.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Check, among other places, Monroe's site for an '03 then an '04, see their nomenclature. Even the FSM uses identical wording for struts both front and rear.

If it's factory, it has struts. What makes you think they're just shocks? The integrated lower spring perch and spring retaining upper mount classify them as struts to everyone but the most pedantic (as in the rear struts don't locate the wheel as the fronts do, very few people would consider that reason to call them shocks).

Nelsito65

It is factory and the rear are called shocks, whereas the front are called strut asemblies (my FSM calls them like that and KYB uses the same nomenclature)

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Is there an actual reason you consider them shocks, or are you just going by wording?

Nelsito65

In this case, I'm going by what they are called in the FSM, and at the place where I purchased them from.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

The FSM calls the fronts shock absorbers also, so I guess you have shocks all the way around



I see there's really no point in arguing this, as it seems to be a matter of opinion as far as what to call them, even though they are struts by matter of design, not standalone shocks. The integrated spring perch says enough.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Check the attached picture...straight from the FSM, "shock absorber."

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Then check my picture above. Shall I quote what I said earlier?

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Ok, so the consensus is there is no consensus...however, most shops do call the front suspension "struts" and the rear "shocks."

From the OP's standpoint, this is what he was looking for, not the "technical name."

Nelsito65

^^Agree.

To pmohr, this a page from my FSM, front suspension:

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Not in my experience, when I was working at Nissan we called them (and ordered parts as) struts front and rear, same at Firestone, etc.

Just saying, you ask for a shock, they may think you gave them the wrong year and send you a shock for a 6th gen, or some random part, not the strut you're looking for.

But looking back at the poster's original question, he says that his auto parts stores don't show a listing for rear struts. A quick search on each of these sites shows that O'Reilly's, Advance, Autozone, and NAPA all have listings for rear struts and rear strut mounts.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

The only difference between the struts in the front and the rear are that the fronts have a bearing in the mount, to allow the whole strut to swivel for steering. This also opens up the category of MacPherson struts, which may be what the FSM is specifically referring to there.

Either way, as I said, there's no point in arguing as the design of the rear struts really speaks for itself, though it seems it's hard for some to realize.

Nelsito65

I'm not arguing the differences between the two, which in fact are more than just the swiveling action. My initial comment was that my 5th generation has shocks in the rear, not struts. That is how they are called in my FSM, as well as the place where I got them from, althought that fact seems to be hard be admitted for some.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Yes, there are more differences than just the bearing plate, but they are quite similar otherwise.

Fair enough, you continue to believe that your car has shocks in the rear, I'll continue to believe that it actually has struts. I never said that wherever you got them from didn't call them shocks, or that the FSM doesn't refer to them as shocks (which, as above, it also calls the fronts). All I'm saying is that by design, they are struts.

Nelsito65

Deal. It's a good thing I got the right parts when I ordered my rear shocks.

djshwini

iTrader: (1)

HELPPP!!!!!!!

http://forums.maxima.org/audio-elect...surprised.html

Slow Motion

2000 GLE having o2 problems, bank 1. Is there anything I should know about taking the o2 out and replacing it. I was told that it could brake if it's rusted and that I could strip the threads and have to replace the entire cat. Is there a thread on this or "how to"? I found the threads [FAQ thread and How to thread] which showed the codes and a diagram of where the o2 sensors were, I just need to know how careful I should be in this particular area. If you have gotten this done at a dealership how much did it cost you? I know it's going to be around $200 for the parts but, how much for labor? If you live in the Atlanta area, let me know if you know a good indy or can just help me with it. I want to get this done ASAP Like today or tomorrow. PM me with answers please.

Slow Motion | Atlanta, Ga.

JBB

Bump -anybody able to help me with this?

VQP0WER

upper manifold gasket?

I'm showing about $4 at Courtesy Parts

VQP0WER

Just unplug the harness, clip the zip ties, and put a dang wrench on that sucker. A little pointer would be to soak the sensor/bung with liquid wrench or other type of oil when the engine is cool.

sadkowmx90

hey, im new to this website and not sure how everything is layed out but i was wondering if anyone could help me out. i have a 01 maxima i use to get around 22-24 mpg 70%city 30% highway all of a sudden now im getting 16 mpg. i cant figure it out

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Could be...bad MAF, bad O2 sensor, fuel leak. My bet is on the bad MAF as it won't necessarily throw an engine light if it is bad.

Any change in your performance?

sadkowmx90

i replaced my MAF 3 months ago because it totally failed but is there a way to test the new one i have and could a in expensive cone filter screw it up ?

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Hmmm....did the MPG drop correspond to the MAF replacement? A cone filter can only screw up a MAF is you are way too excessive on the oil.

sadkowmx90

No i did not have a decrease of mpg when i replaced it i just checked out my MAF and its as clean as can be i dont think that is the problem. maybe clogged cats? i had a code for bank 1 catalyst below threshold efficiency but it went away. i san some sea foam through it and thats when i noticed the decrease in MPG maybe my last catalytic converter (main cat) is clogged thus causing pore mpg? i already have a whole new 3 way catalyst system waiting to be put in iv just been putting it off because its dam cold here in Massachusetts

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Could be the cat, but you probably have a bad O2 sensor. If you have the cat, get the O2 sensor and replace both. Or, if you want to do a more troubleshooting analysis approach, replace the cat first and see if MPG improves. If it doesn't, replace that O2 sensor.

djshwini

iTrader: (1)

for the past 4-5 days my battery has been dead every morning or every other morning. The battery is only about 1-2 months old but i checked the levels and one of the cells was completely empty. So i filled that one up and toped the other ones off w/ distilled water. I was just wondering if that would be the ONLY reason why the car was dead every morning or if there would be a short or power draw from another place.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Only way to be sure is to get both your battery and alternator checked. It is possible the alternator is just not supplying enough charging. If both check our fine, then look for a power draw somewhere.

jakemort74

hey ive noticed the rpms on my 2001 maxima gle have been bouncing slightly (about 100-250 rpms) when coming to a stop, what causes this? It just bounces once and then settles down to about 750 rpm.

:erseyFresh609

II am looking to replace the shift **** and boot on my 2000 5speed and don't know where to began. Does anyone know where I can find pictures or a video? Thanks.

2kmaxseblack2k

I have a ? How do you become maxima of the month...and what are the qualifications? GUYS check out my profile pics and let me know if you think my car has potential..also BTW i just got my profile signature to work its f**king dope. RIGHT? haha lol ...sorry im just extremmley happy i got it to work finally. someone on the other forum page told me the tricky troo and just copy and paste..i had no idea anyways let me know your comments and answers. Thanks.

Maxima2MAX

Hi guys very nice site very helpful
been looking for solution to my issue, 2001 maxima SE 20th Ann.
owned car close to year, runs good after 5 minutes, even longer 10mins, now that winters apound us, up Here in Canada...
To start the car, even in mid summer beautiful days I need to hold the gas a little, for 30seconds or so, let off let sit for the 5 or more minutes, befour she idles normaly.. and dosn't want to stall. leave to soon it will Stall out soon as back out.

the only code im getting is knock sensor, so i ordered its..
couple days later i get the part, go to install.
removed the air intake & what not in way, i know its hard to see, but couldn't find it. so i started to pull on the harness, to my surprise wasn't hooked up to anything.
with little more looking/feeling around , noticed where it once was under mainifold the bolt snaped off few treads below.

So i guess my Question's would be is it in my best interest to relocate the KS.( Because i dont want to have someone remove mainifold to machine the bolt out.. above my head ) & maybe know suitable spot?

or returns parts harness and sensor i just paid for (few months back now), and try the bypass?

Thanks in ADVANCE and Happy Holidays
Green

VQP0WER

Looks like a stock SE with tint.........I dont see MOTM potential.

JBB

Thanks, Mark. Also, I'm trying to confirm the gasket 14010A is the one I'll have to replace to change the rear bank of spark plugs. Is this the correct one?

VQP0WER

You can reuse the existing one if it's still looks alright, but for $4-5, might as well install new. And yes, that's the correct seal. Here's a write up.

http://www.vqpower.com/v2/articles.php?article_id=27