kbcnd

iTrader: (2)

Which thread chief? Post #7 in the "I'm new here.." does not pertain to me. Besides, it would take me more than a couple minutes to read through over 13,000 posts...

nelledge

iTrader: (6)

Fixed. And you're welcome, Kimosabe.

piaablind

Hey guys I have a spring question. I have had a 20th AE 5mt for about a month now. Love everything about it, except for the worn out springs. It only has 92k on the clock but it bottoms out pretty easily, especially the rear end. I know it is common for these for the rear suspension to bottom out, and I know there was a TSB for it.

My question is, are there any performance springs out there that don't lower the car. I honestly would like to do anything I can to make it handle better, but I can't lower it. I drive some pretty rough roads a lot and go on the occasional camping trip that involves me slowly going through a field or something, so ground clearance can't be sacrificed.

I have searched for a couple weeks now and have not found anything involving better springs that don't also lower the car. Any suggestions would be great. Do you think getting some new oem springs would make a big difference? Thanks in advance.

kbcnd

iTrader: (2)

Much Appreciated!! Thanks boss!!

homeyclaus

iTrader: (1)

OEM, pre-2003 springs all would work. The 2003 gen 5.5 has an independent rear suspension, which is different than the multilink the prior versions have, so I am not sure about those. Get them used from the wreckers.

This being said, it's more the shocks clapping out that'll let you bottom out, so just putting in a quality set of shocks will do wonders for your ride. For stock heights and rides, the best ones to get are either Tokico Blues or KYB GR-2's. They damp a little differently, but are all good. Don't buy Monroe.

2010MaximaSV

I went to autozone and pulled codes 455 and 1448 what exactly is an evap canister? Does this get replaced, has anyone else had these codes?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Code P1448 is a EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve problem, not the EVAP canister itself. Two seperate critters.

The EVAP canister is a charcoal filled box located behind the left rear wheel. It is part of the pollution controls that filters fumes from the gas tank. There is a valve attached to the canister that regulates the amount of air going through the canister. The plunger inside is evidently sticking. Some people have taken the valve apart and cleaned/lubed it and it works. Sometimes you have to buy a new valve.

AyoL

Hey guys I just got my first car yesterday. 2000 Nissan Maxima SE. I got it pretty cheap. But I had a question, the radio works and all but I cant see the LED. Do you think it needs a new fuse or what do you think it can be?

Thanks.

DavefromCA

So my car was in a minor accident last year. The body shop put a new headlight housing on one side. So I have one shiney, clean, crisp, orange colored turn signal on one side versus a worn out, foggy housing with a yellow turn signal (yellow from the California sun beating on it for 11 years) on the other.

I've looked online and there are so many options. The weird thing is a lot of a them say "Xenon with out touring" or "Non xenon with touring." I thought it was touring=xenon only? Makes me not want to order from those companies...Anyone have any experiences with any of these online companies?

BTW this is a 2000 I30t. I would post this in the I30 forum but there doesnt seem to be a NOOB thread. Any advice is really appreciated. Feel free to move this or create a thread for me. Even if there is a thread like this from a year ago its good to get updated answers.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The display is strictly internal to the radio. Hate to tell you that it is a radio problem. If it is a Bose, maybe you can take it apart and find a bad solder connection and re-solder it. But that is a big maybe.

AyoL

Its the original stock Bose Radio. Everything works from the AM/FM radio to the CD player I just cant see the lighting when it says CD or "97.9Fm" But Thanks for the reply.

kbcnd

iTrader: (2)

Probably not the case...but is your dimmer switch turned up all the way?

AyoL

And where is that switch located?

kbcnd

iTrader: (2)

Ok...so I can't make a new thread so therefore I can't post in the board this belongs in, so hopefully someone here can help me.

I'm looking for someone in the Arlington/Mansfield/Fort Worth area that would be willing to help me install some Illuminas/Progress springs in the next few months. I have absolutly no equipment nor knowledge of the install but am eager to learn and help. I am willing to pay for your time / services / and equipment.

If someone would be willing to help me or point me in the right direction I would most certainly appreciate it.

Thanks in advance!
Kyle B.

kbcnd

iTrader: (2)

It's the little dial left of the steering column right behind the turn signal lever. Turning it either brightens or dims interior lighting (gauges, radio, button lights).

piaablind

Thanks for the reply. So you think that some struts would make a bigger difference in bottoming out than springs? I really like the idea of the illumina's because I have some adjustable shocks on my Jeep and love being able to make them super firm or soft depending on what I am doing. But reading on here they aren't recommended for the stock springs. I guess I might try the KYB's. Eventually I am going to do a rear sway bar too. I honestly want it to handle as good as it possibly can, I love carving up the back roads, and I hate body roll, I just can't lower it.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Springs don't go bad - ever, so yes struts are definitely a good idea. It's not that they're not recommended, it's that they're overkill for oem springs.

KYB GR-2's are a great match for oem springs, offering that slight amount more stiffness than oem struts. When doing the job, don't forget about hardware - mounts, dust boots, and bearings at the very least.

AyoL

Ok I tried that today and that wasn't it. I dont know what it could be besides the fuse.

Genes1s

iTrader: (5)

I found a good deal of Factory 04 350Z wheels + tires. they are 18"x8 front and 18"x8.5 back. My car is 2000 Max SE 5 speed with stock 17". looks like it's going to fit fine but not sure. I saw tons of pictures but couldn't make up if they were running staggered or not. Anyone can confirm?

Thanks

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

The lights in the radio and especially the hvac are known to be very flimsy and easily broken/fused.

Only recourse is to open the hvac control up and replace the bulbs, or replace the hvac unit altogether.

jdaddy89

Do you by any chance where to get those bulbs from?? for the HVAC??

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

It's not a fuse, it's not a light bulb. You have a problem with the display inside the radio.

AyoL

So its the radio its self? Is that replaceable or a whole new radio is needed?

Flanker84

Ok, I searched in almost all the forum for this problem and I don't know very well what to do.

I got a 01 Maxima SE Aut and when I start it in cold the idle it's around 1k RPM but sometimes I start it then in 2 seconds it stalls, I need to start it again like 2 or 3 more times before it starts correctly. But it's just the begginig, when it get the normal temp of operation and I stop the idle go to 300-200 RPM (with or without gear, A/C).

I changed the PCV and fuel filter, cleaned the IACV and MAF but the problem persists. The engine got a small air filter in the breather of the VC (it's disconnected from the main intake) and I read that that kind of mod cause a lean condition in the engine and hesitates and gives a rough idle.


That's the filter in the VC.

Thanks

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Essentially you have to get a new radio. You can get the radio repaired, most places charge a flat rate. But you can probably buy a used one on e-bay for less money.

ManteoMax

new here.
I have a 2001 20thAE with significant rotor vibration while braking but can't replace them myself and am looking for a recommended installer in Arlington/NoVA area. I would be willing to assist with the installation to learn more about it. Any suggestions?

In addition to the brake vibration, I've got some vibration/scraping when I turn. I drove from VA to NJ at Christmas without any unusual noise, and drove through some pretty chunky/icy snow around the house. When I started back to VA I immediately had heavy vibration in the right rear wheel, making me think I had picked up a bolt in the tire. I could hear it but it didn't feel it through the steering wheel. It was so loud I thought the tire would fail before I reached VA, but I made it and had two mechanics look at it and see no fault with the tire. I was also told "the rotors are warped but the pads are fine." But the thump-thump-thump I could hear when I drove remained and varies to speed. In the past months the thumping sound has diminished some, but now when I turn left I'm hearing a scraping sound, like the rotors are coming into contact with a shield. Do I assume right that replacing the brakes will probably identify and fix the problem?

VQP0WER

Rotors are easily replaced and I bet the heat shield is slightly bent making it rub the rotor. Just have to bend it back, no biggie.

watkins2010

hi I got a 2000 Maxima SE. 87,000 miles on it. Got it in January of this year, I've had to replace the catalytic converters, and iacv valve. Not cheap fixes. of course my warranty didn't cover those problems. So i got got buying this car..I've read all the things about the IACV screwing up the ECU. My mechanic thinks thats whats happening now. I've adjusted the idle screw a few times to get it down to normal, if I drive the car hard or over a certain speed the idle jumps back up to 1000 and when I put it in park it jumps from 1200 to 1600 up and down. Anybody ever tried just unplugging the IACV? A friend of mine had the same issue in a geo tracker he had and he unplugged it and set the idle where it should be and had no problems. Anybody ever tried this?

Genes1s

iTrader: (5)

Where is the tranny drain plug and refill on 00 Maxima SE 5 Speed. I couldn' post picture, but I looked and couldn't find any. I think I know the fill plug is but it looks different than the 02-03.

VQP0WER

Drain plug is on the tranny pan, and you refill it through the dip stick hole.

watkins2010

okay, i thought this i am new here thread was for getting help. quite a few times i've asked a question and nobody replied. why?

Genes1s

iTrader: (5)

Nope. Maybe I'm blind, but I didn't see any other dip stick other than engine oil dip stick. I know that the drain plug is gotta be somewhere in the pan. There is one that looks like maybe the drain plug but's it covered by a plastic cover with wire harness to it, could it be gear sensor. if that's the case, I'm not going that route since I know I'm going to mess it up. There's got to be a drain pplug somewhere, maybe it is in passenger side....

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

There is no pan and there is no dipstick. The sensor at the bottom is the reverse/neutral sensor, and you'll likely break it on removal.

Drain plug is on the engine side of the trans. Follow the shift rod into the trans, the drain plug is there. Fill plug is on the front, takes a 1/2" square drive.

Genes1s

iTrader: (5)

OK I wish I could post pictures, but I think I got it. The fill plug is on the driver side facing front, I see it. Good thing I didn't mess with that sensor, I started loosing the flange bolt but tighthen back up just didn't want to mess with it.

Thanks!

jba11ey

I have some issues with my blower not blowing. Replaced it and still nothing. My question pertains to the regulator. I am getting no movement from the fan and if the regulator is at fault will it cause the motor to not work at all? I have found forums on other makes that suggest that the blower will go full blast if the regulator is at fault. I have checked all fuses and replaced the blower. I am about to take a voltmeter to it, but would like some insight from someone that has a higher IQ.
Thanks.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

You replaced it before even checking to see if it had power? If you're looking to waste money and time and just happen upon a bad part in the process, that's certainly the way to go.

What year? With the climate control on and commanding the blower motor, you really need to check for power at the blower motor, at the blower motor relay, and at fuses 51 and 52, as well verify it's got a good ground.

jba11ey

2003.
The motor needed replacement before it stopped working.
I checked all the fuses.
Ill get the other diagnostic info tomorrow.
Thanks for your input.

ChiTeMax

iTrader: (1)

Hi guys, Re: 2003 Maxima SE

Just wondering if i could score some info. What's the exhaust piece called that's just behind the rear axle and bolts on top of axle to the muffler. The piece was kinda loose. The little metal plate that holds it up corroded and it was bouncing off the axle past few days through bumps. So, I got it welded. It no longer clunks but i have a bigger issue.

It now seems to have a hole cuz the car makes a bad muffler type sound on rev. Was wondering if i could just replace that piece alone. Would like the name for it.

Or if an aftermarket exhaust is recommended, i'll go that route too. But I like it quiet and dual tip (as close to OEM as possible).

Thanks guys.

PS: I'm sorry if the description is crap. Unfortunately I don't have access to a lift for at least 2 more days. I'm hopeful you guys would know what i'm referring to.

watkins2010

Okay screw this ****in' website. I'm out!!

VQP0WER

Don't get your panties in a bind. Don't expect a response instantly to your questions.

Have you look at your throttle position sensor? It's not advised that you mess with the idle screws, especially on the throttle body.