5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
so... half of my dash lights don't work. the tach half.
can't seem to find a fuse in the fusebox for dash lights... am i just stupid? seem to have found suggestions to check like... tail light fuses and stuff? but that was in the 4th gen forum....
any advice?
can't seem to find a fuse in the fusebox for dash lights... am i just stupid? seem to have found suggestions to check like... tail light fuses and stuff? but that was in the 4th gen forum....
any advice?
The fuse for the dash lights is under the hood by the battery, but this isn't your problem. All the dash lights, the lights in the heater control, the shifter, all the switches that light up, the glovebox, the ash tray and more all come from one fuse.
What you probably have is a burned out lamp in the instrument cluster, right behing the tachometer.
What you probably have is a burned out lamp in the instrument cluster, right behing the tachometer.
i have a situation with my maxima as well. aside from having to replace my transmission speed sensor lol but i already know how to. However i had vibration while braking at 60+, thought i had warp rotors so i had them turned and vibration sill there. less but still there and now i can feel like something is loose on the front end. check everything and looks good and tight. ive been meaning to change my tie rod ends since the car makes a clunking noise on small bumps, wondering if it may be something else and if its related to my braking shake problem. any suggestions?
The fuse for the dash lights is under the hood by the battery, but this isn't your problem. All the dash lights, the lights in the heater control, the shifter, all the switches that light up, the glovebox, the ash tray and more all come from one fuse.
What you probably have is a burned out lamp in the instrument cluster, right behing the tachometer.
What you probably have is a burned out lamp in the instrument cluster, right behing the tachometer.
thanks for the heads up.
Repairs now done...
Picked up my 2000 Maxima last night, with them changing the coils, and the MAF, along with fuel injector flush and iacv. They also did an idle relearn process, and a throttle boddy cleaning.....I wanted them to also to a fuel filter change, since it has never been done in the car since new, but they forgot I guess.
The car seemed to run very well, however, it always does for several weeks after work has been done. (this is my second set of replacement coils after the original ones, and my 3rd MAF after the original one) In the past I've always used aftermarket parts, this time, went with dealer OEM parts, so we'll see if any different this time. The idel relearn is also something that I had never done in the past, when I changed the above parts...
My questions:
I had bought the two little gaskets for the throttle body and the fuel filter, and was going to do them myself, before all the problems got bad and I had to take the car in. They said they cleaned the TB, but did not use any gaskets - is that going to be a problem, or is that telling me they really didn't take anyting apart, and probably just sprayed some cleaner in there? I would think that if totally removed and cleaned on the bench, that they would put in the new gaskets when re-installing?
And even though I had the fuel filter, and asked them to change it, they forgot...do you think this is a job a shadetree mechanic (me) can do? I think if anything, its good maintenance after 11 years..
I will keep you posted if the SES light comes back on, and what codes , if any, come back....as I said, these parts have all been changed in the past, seemingly helps for a while, then stalling returns.
Total repair bill was not much less than the value of the car...ouch!
I must say, highway throttle response is clearly improved, but low RPM idle seems to resonate through the car more now???
As long as it doesn't stall, I am happy...for now anyway.
The car seemed to run very well, however, it always does for several weeks after work has been done. (this is my second set of replacement coils after the original ones, and my 3rd MAF after the original one) In the past I've always used aftermarket parts, this time, went with dealer OEM parts, so we'll see if any different this time. The idel relearn is also something that I had never done in the past, when I changed the above parts...
My questions:
I had bought the two little gaskets for the throttle body and the fuel filter, and was going to do them myself, before all the problems got bad and I had to take the car in. They said they cleaned the TB, but did not use any gaskets - is that going to be a problem, or is that telling me they really didn't take anyting apart, and probably just sprayed some cleaner in there? I would think that if totally removed and cleaned on the bench, that they would put in the new gaskets when re-installing?
And even though I had the fuel filter, and asked them to change it, they forgot...do you think this is a job a shadetree mechanic (me) can do? I think if anything, its good maintenance after 11 years..
I will keep you posted if the SES light comes back on, and what codes , if any, come back....as I said, these parts have all been changed in the past, seemingly helps for a while, then stalling returns.
Total repair bill was not much less than the value of the car...ouch!
I must say, highway throttle response is clearly improved, but low RPM idle seems to resonate through the car more now???
As long as it doesn't stall, I am happy...for now anyway.
For the gaskets - I would ask them very bluntly what exactly they did. If all they did is spray, then it sounds like you're either getting some money back, or giving it back for them to do the right way.
For the fuel filter - it's definitely doable with some basic tools and basic knowledge. There's a how-to floating somewhere around this forum. Good luck!
For the fuel filter - it's definitely doable with some basic tools and basic knowledge. There's a how-to floating somewhere around this forum. Good luck!
2 questions...
Hey everyone glad to be a member I have loved my maxima since I got her in 01 . Beautiful Car with quite the soul. I am glad I found this forum just wish I would have found it sooner cause I already bought an injen CAI about a year and a half ago... But
1. Is there anything I can do to make it gain any performance? I actually feel like I may have lost some power but the noise is pretty nice.
2. My front brakes (i think) are begining to squeek it comes and goes randomly... Not really sure what it is but I am pretty sure its comig from the brakes. Sometimes it makes the noise when off the break and just cruising other times it will make the noise when I have to hit the brakes.. Anyone have any idea? I brought it to a couple shops and they said that the pads are fine and the rotors look ok others say I need new both rotors and pads so I really dont have a clue
1. Is there anything I can do to make it gain any performance? I actually feel like I may have lost some power but the noise is pretty nice.
2. My front brakes (i think) are begining to squeek it comes and goes randomly... Not really sure what it is but I am pretty sure its comig from the brakes. Sometimes it makes the noise when off the break and just cruising other times it will make the noise when I have to hit the brakes.. Anyone have any idea? I brought it to a couple shops and they said that the pads are fine and the rotors look ok others say I need new both rotors and pads so I really dont have a clue
syrlup i thought maximas had no fuel filter. well fuel filter with the fuel pump inside the gas tank. make sure your maf sensor is in good shape to!
and 20th joe that goes for you to. lack of power may be cause of bad maf sensor. i had gotten a 2nd generation one for my 01 max and when i burned it and got a stock one i fell the drop on power. and the breaks...well you can check them yourself. or if you trust they good according to what you were told then it might just be lack of lube on the outside plate of your brake pads. you can get the lube (looks like gel, they sell them at any auto part store) and apply it to the back or outside part of your brake parts.
and 20th joe that goes for you to. lack of power may be cause of bad maf sensor. i had gotten a 2nd generation one for my 01 max and when i burned it and got a stock one i fell the drop on power. and the breaks...well you can check them yourself. or if you trust they good according to what you were told then it might just be lack of lube on the outside plate of your brake pads. you can get the lube (looks like gel, they sell them at any auto part store) and apply it to the back or outside part of your brake parts.
When you registered, there was a message that stated the amount of posts you need to have before you can create a thread (I'm not sure how many posts you need these days). Until you reach that number, you can post your questions or comments, just like you did in this thread. This particular thread was precisely created for that purpose.
When you registered, there was a message that stated the amount of posts you need to have before you can create a thread (I'm not sure how many posts you need these days). Until you reach that number, you can post your questions or comments, just like you did in this thread. This particular thread was precisely created for that purpose.
Yup, its the one i the gas tank that I have, and will change. Can't hurt....MAF sensor and entire assembly was changed for a new OEM Nissan one...so should be ok for a while (I am hoping)
I need to replace my outer tie rod on my passenger side. Is it required to do both sides inner/outer at the same time? Or would I be fine with just doing both outer tie rods, or even just the one that needs to be replaced? Thanks in advance.
If you want to only replace the one(s) that is bad, fine. The only argument that can be used against this is that you have to get the front end aligned when you replace a tie rod end. Tie rod ends aren't that expensive to replace them all and only get one alignment.
It all depends on how much of a gambling man you are.
Ahh well that makes things easier on my pockets. I think I'll go ahead and get the one side replaced, and I had gotten an alignment about a week ago at FireStone so maybe if I take it there to get the work done then they'll re-align it under warranty or something. Or am I hoping for too much there...
Ahh well that makes things easier on my pockets. I think I'll go ahead and get the one side replaced, and I had gotten an alignment about a week ago at FireStone so maybe if I take it there to get the work done then they'll re-align it under warranty or something. Or am I hoping for too much there...
If you went to Firestone why didn't you get the lifetime alignment?
hey 00maximain to be honest with you i recomened you change both inner and outter tie rod ends. depending how many miles in your car thou. but since you gotta get a front end aligment and your old tie rod ends will go bad (mine are bad and planning to change them all soon). i know it may be more money but i think its worth it. Also i recommend you get parts from nissan. yes they are more expensive but think its best (DO NOT take it to the dealer thou, they will charge you A LOT of money for something that can be easily done yourself)
By the way i just discovered yesterday a minor oil leak on my 01 maxima. i can see it comes from the back top passanger side of the engine on the base of a metal tube thats wrapped with foil. im guessing theres a gasked that went bad? any ideas?
A picture or something would help.
oops posted this in the wrong section, so here is where it needs to be.
i have a question... i have a 02 maxima 6 spd, in the entire rpm range i get a weird clicking/ticking sound. the higher the rpms the louder it gets, the only mods i have done are a CAI and 2 1/2 in exhaust. the higher octane gas i put in the louder it gets. the ticking sounds are so close it sounds like its a continuous noise. im kinda worried about it. i have no loss in power at all. i added a octane booster and it just got louder. i can now hear it over my exhaust now. and my exhaust is LOUD.
i have a question... i have a 02 maxima 6 spd, in the entire rpm range i get a weird clicking/ticking sound. the higher the rpms the louder it gets, the only mods i have done are a CAI and 2 1/2 in exhaust. the higher octane gas i put in the louder it gets. the ticking sounds are so close it sounds like its a continuous noise. im kinda worried about it. i have no loss in power at all. i added a octane booster and it just got louder. i can now hear it over my exhaust now. and my exhaust is LOUD.
I think that the leak is your high pressure power steering hose. It is wrapped in insulation to try and protect the rubber from the engine heat.
yeah power steeting house sounds right. must not be leaking much since my power steering fluid has not gone down. to be more clear (dont have a pic yet...would be hard to take anyways) the hose attaches to the engine on the bottom right side just above cv shaft. it leaks down to a o2 sensor and to the cv shaft itself (thats how i noticed oil leak) im pretty sure the oil is coming from where the hose bolts onto the engine. kinda like a regtangle shape base with two bolts. ill c if i can take a pic
'01 maxima "mysterious" electrical noises.
Question: I've got an '01 20th with 120,000 on the clock and just noticed recently that whenever the car is running and throttle is applied, i hear some kind of electric motor actuating in repetitions of 6 in the nose below the airbox somewhere...Anybody got any potential solutions?
Question: I've got an '01 20th with 120,000 on the clock and just noticed recently that whenever the car is running and throttle is applied, i hear some kind of electric motor actuating in repetitions of 6 in the nose below the airbox somewhere...Anybody got any potential solutions?
Clutch
ok So im new to the Maxi world. I just bought a 2000 Maxima 5-speed. when in first got it the clutch pressure was really stiff. now it is very soft and i feel like i need to press it though the floor. Any suggestions on what to try or do?
Check your master/slave cylinder. I *think* it's a common problem but not 100% on that.
hi guys i have a question. on my 03 gle i would like to but back my original bose cd player since its a 6cd changer and take out current aftermarket deck that previous owner installed. Have anyone done this, im just curious if i need to buy a harnest or i can just plug it back in as is?
Hi, I have an issue where whenever I drive the car for like the first 15 mins no matter the weather I stop at a light or stop sign & if I take my foot off the break or gas while in drive the car will just sit there like in neutral. When I press the gas the car wont move but if I tap it a few times it will move but the car has to like jump back into gear, its weird..only happens when I first start driving for the day..
hi guys i have a question. on my 03 gle i would like to but back my original bose cd player since its a 6cd changer and take out current aftermarket deck that previous owner installed. Have anyone done this, im just curious if i need to buy a harnest or i can just plug it back in as is?
well what i got is this, previous owner took out the head unit and put it amp and a sub. Now that the aftermarket deck is slowly dying i gotta replace it, plus the sub is huge and heavy i just want to take everything out and go back to old stock system. i guess i got lots of work to do
COil
My ses is on and codes all lead to the coil. I have read on the posts about checkin the coils. I have looked them over and the one in the 3rd firing order or middle one in the back well the insulation boot has came off and is stuck. Any opinions if this could be the main source of my coil issue and does anyone know the best way to get it out?
I'm currently in the process of changing my outer tie rod on my 00 GLE. But the nut that supposedly connects the outer tie rod to inner seems to be just a part of the outer tie rod that's there. So basically there's no loosening the nut then simply unscrewing the outer tie rod, so when I turn the outer the whole piece (inner and outer) turn. Basically I'm unable to remove the outer.
How can I do this? I need the car to drive back to school in a couple hours :-(. Am I seeing things and the nut and tie rod really aren't one? Or is there a way to remove this... Help pleaseee
How can I do this? I need the car to drive back to school in a couple hours :-(. Am I seeing things and the nut and tie rod really aren't one? Or is there a way to remove this... Help pleaseee
well what i got is this, previous owner took out the head unit and put it amp and a sub. Now that the aftermarket deck is slowly dying i gotta replace it, plus the sub is huge and heavy i just want to take everything out and go back to old stock system. i guess i got lots of work to do
My ses is on and codes all lead to the coil. I have read on the posts about checkin the coils. I have looked them over and the one in the 3rd firing order or middle one in the back well the insulation boot has came off and is stuck. Any opinions if this could be the main source of my coil issue and does anyone know the best way to get it out?