5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
But if the bulb were working, it would be on then.
If you're going to pull the instrument cluster, just replace all the bulbs and be done with it.
There is a link here to the factory service manual that outlines how to handle this, but the summary is that whenever you work near airbag wiring you need to disconnect the battery and leave it disconnected for some time before commencing work.
See above.
If you're going to pull the instrument cluster, just replace all the bulbs and be done with it.
There is a link here to the factory service manual that outlines how to handle this, but the summary is that whenever you work near airbag wiring you need to disconnect the battery and leave it disconnected for some time before commencing work.
See above.
I counted in the owner's manual, and there are a total of 18 lights/symbols on instrument panel, you mean to change all of them? I don't understand what you mean there.
I was gonna take the windshield washer fluid light since I just remembered my sensor on the washer fluid is not working anyways. But then I'll have blue SES light lol.
Thanks for your reply.
Hey guys, quick question, i must be blind but, i putt in my cattman headers+Y-pipe the other day on my 5.5 and of course the stock header+y-pipe has 4 o2 sensors i was wondering what i should do with the 4th o2 sensor, is there some way to delete it or? I was just thinking of wiring it into another o2 sensor so then it would read off that, help anyone?
I counted in the owner's manual, and there are a total of 18 lights/symbols on instrument panel, you mean to change all of them? I don't understand what you mean there.
I was gonna take the windshield washer fluid light since I just remembered my sensor on the washer fluid is not working anyways. But then I'll have blue SES light lol.
Again, moving bulbs around is false economy. Spend the $12, get all the bulbs, and install them all.
Hey guys, quick question, i must be blind but, i putt in my cattman headers+Y-pipe the other day on my 5.5 and of course the stock header+y-pipe has 4 o2 sensors i was wondering what i should do with the 4th o2 sensor, is there some way to delete it or? I was just thinking of wiring it into another o2 sensor so then it would read off that, help anyone?
Sup everyone. Hope you all having a good day. Quick question i just noticed my cranck shaft pulley wobbles a little (hardly noticable) while running. Should i worry or you think it could just need to tighyten the nut? No noide either. Only from the ac compressor a little while running
Just checked it. The 19mm nut is tight. Just to clear up its the bigger pulley which has the smaller one behind it that holds the power steering belt. If indeed theres a bearing therr i guess its on its way out. Just replaced my lower control arms to! I guess with 193k its time this small things start going bad. Thx for thr reply dj!
Sup everyone. Hope you all having a good day. Quick question i just noticed my cranck shaft pulley wobbles a little (hardly noticable) while running. Should i worry or you think it could just need to tighyten the nut? No noide either. Only from the ac compressor a little while running
Oh ok. So the harmonic balancer (thx!) is sold ready to replaced? And how much longer u think i can get out of it? Im going on a road trip tomorrow. I changed my belts about 3 minths ago and there was no wobbling. Therefore i would venture to say its on its initial stages. Thx for the info guys!
Oh ok. So the harmonic balancer (thx!) is sold ready to replaced? And how much longer u think i can get out of it? Im going on a road trip tomorrow. I changed my belts about 3 minths ago and there was no wobbling. Therefore i would venture to say its on its initial stages. Thx for the info guys!
As far as how long you can drive the car right now, it's impossible to make any guarantee. Most of the time you can go for months, but an extended road trip is tougher than short trips.
The belt pulleys are pressed on to the harmonic balancer, so what you get is a complete unit ready to put on and go.
As far as how long you can drive the car right now, it's impossible to make any guarantee. Most of the time you can go for months, but an extended road trip is tougher than short trips.
As far as how long you can drive the car right now, it's impossible to make any guarantee. Most of the time you can go for months, but an extended road trip is tougher than short trips.
Originally Posted by 02_VQTr3e5ive
Hey guys, quick question, i must be blind but, i putt in my cattman headers+Y-pipe the other day on my 5.5 and of course the stock header+y-pipe has 4 o2 sensors i was wondering what i should do with the 4th o2 sensor, is there some way to delete it or? I was just thinking of wiring it into another o2 sensor so then it would read off that, help anyone?
Cattman only has 2 bungs (1 per bank).
I assume you put your primaries in each bank (baby blue) , so what happened to the 3rd sensor since you said you only had 1 lacking to take care of?
I just have it hanging under the bay lol idk what to do with it yet
Random chatter/rattle problem
My car has been making a chatter/rattle noise from under the hood for about a week now. I don't think its my valves because it only does it every once in a while. I can't figure out what it is. It does it more when the engine isn't warmed up. Anyone know what might be wrong? Thanks.
I've searched around the forum/google, but could not find an answer to my question.
The buttons of where you want air to blow on my climate controls (top vents, floor, defroster, etc) and the fan speed selector are out. (manual controls by the way)
Are there any plug and plug LEDs (probably white) that I could use?
Also, is this just opening the climate controls up, unscrewing the old bulbs and putting the new ones in?
Thanks
The buttons of where you want air to blow on my climate controls (top vents, floor, defroster, etc) and the fan speed selector are out. (manual controls by the way)
Are there any plug and plug LEDs (probably white) that I could use?
Also, is this just opening the climate controls up, unscrewing the old bulbs and putting the new ones in?
Thanks
I've searched around the forum/google, but could not find an answer to my question.
The buttons of where you want air to blow on my climate controls (top vents, floor, defroster, etc) and the fan speed selector are out. (manual controls by the way)
Are there any plug and plug LEDs (probably white) that I could use?
Also, is this just opening the climate controls up, unscrewing the old bulbs and putting the new ones in?
Thanks
The buttons of where you want air to blow on my climate controls (top vents, floor, defroster, etc) and the fan speed selector are out. (manual controls by the way)
Are there any plug and plug LEDs (probably white) that I could use?
Also, is this just opening the climate controls up, unscrewing the old bulbs and putting the new ones in?
Thanks
I've searched around the forum/google, but could not find an answer to my question.
The buttons of where you want air to blow on my climate controls (top vents, floor, defroster, etc) and the fan speed selector are out. (manual controls by the way)
Are there any plug and plug LEDs (probably white) that I could use?
Also, is this just opening the climate controls up, unscrewing the old bulbs and putting the new ones in?
Thanks
The buttons of where you want air to blow on my climate controls (top vents, floor, defroster, etc) and the fan speed selector are out. (manual controls by the way)
Are there any plug and plug LEDs (probably white) that I could use?
Also, is this just opening the climate controls up, unscrewing the old bulbs and putting the new ones in?
Thanks
My car has been making a chatter/rattle noise from under the hood for about a week now. I don't think its my valves because it only does it every once in a while. I can't figure out what it is. It does it more when the engine isn't warmed up. Anyone know what might be wrong? Thanks.
Engine Mount
Hey all,
I've got a 2003 Maxima (automatic trans) that has been acting up lately. Here are a few problems:
--while driving on the highway for some distance, the accelerator pedal will suddenly feel loose and then you'll hear the engine roar like I was stepping on the gas while it was still in park. I usually just step off the accelerator for a couple of seconds then it goes back to normal.
--the car would sometimes jerk/hiccup when I change gears
--rattling and slight grinding sound, but you don't feel any vibration
Anyway, took it to my mechanic which I trust (at least I used to) and he told me I've got two busted motor mounts. One is closer to the steering wheel area and the other on the passenger side. He is looking at getting those two pieces for $350 and then tacking $80 for labor. Could motor mounts really cause this and is that a fair price?
Thanks in advance. Also, is bumping threads frowned upon?
I've got a 2003 Maxima (automatic trans) that has been acting up lately. Here are a few problems:
--while driving on the highway for some distance, the accelerator pedal will suddenly feel loose and then you'll hear the engine roar like I was stepping on the gas while it was still in park. I usually just step off the accelerator for a couple of seconds then it goes back to normal.
--the car would sometimes jerk/hiccup when I change gears
--rattling and slight grinding sound, but you don't feel any vibration
Anyway, took it to my mechanic which I trust (at least I used to) and he told me I've got two busted motor mounts. One is closer to the steering wheel area and the other on the passenger side. He is looking at getting those two pieces for $350 and then tacking $80 for labor. Could motor mounts really cause this and is that a fair price?
Thanks in advance. Also, is bumping threads frowned upon?
00 Maxi feels sluggish
Hello all, first time asking a question, but figured all the advice that has been given and used (by me and others) I would give it a go and ask away!
Here is the problem: It has been happening about a week or so maybe a little longer. When ever driving usually worse in the mornings when car is cold, I can rev up (usually see tach getting into the 4k or 5k stage) and take off but it is slow moving but once into third gear car will accelerate fine (still revving a little high 4k) but will get down the road fine.
In the afternoon maybe once its warm out car will accelerate normally with our having to really get on the gas.
Wondering could I need to replace the clutch and if so what brand is usually a good one? This is supposed to be my wife's car, but I do most of the driving in it (go figure ) Whenever I get in and I need to go I wanna go without much delay, this car is super fast when it wants to be, but I don't want to have it sit around while I have mechanics tell me what they "think" is wrong. Wondering if I would need to check and see if my tranny fluid is low or something.
A little background for you so you know what I am dealing with: 00 maxima SE, 5spd, had the clutch system refilled and bled about 3 months ago, came out one morning and the master was dry, took it to a shop and told them refill and bleed and it been driving fine since--I probably need to replace the slave cylinder and figured if I have to replace the clutch will do that at the same time--
Have much respect for this forum and all it entails, Thanks in advance for all the input with my problem.
Here is the problem: It has been happening about a week or so maybe a little longer. When ever driving usually worse in the mornings when car is cold, I can rev up (usually see tach getting into the 4k or 5k stage) and take off but it is slow moving but once into third gear car will accelerate fine (still revving a little high 4k) but will get down the road fine.
In the afternoon maybe once its warm out car will accelerate normally with our having to really get on the gas.
Wondering could I need to replace the clutch and if so what brand is usually a good one? This is supposed to be my wife's car, but I do most of the driving in it (go figure ) Whenever I get in and I need to go I wanna go without much delay, this car is super fast when it wants to be, but I don't want to have it sit around while I have mechanics tell me what they "think" is wrong. Wondering if I would need to check and see if my tranny fluid is low or something.
A little background for you so you know what I am dealing with: 00 maxima SE, 5spd, had the clutch system refilled and bled about 3 months ago, came out one morning and the master was dry, took it to a shop and told them refill and bleed and it been driving fine since--I probably need to replace the slave cylinder and figured if I have to replace the clutch will do that at the same time--
Have much respect for this forum and all it entails, Thanks in advance for all the input with my problem.
p0300
my 2003 maxima se 6mt has the ses light on. the code is p0300 random misfire. the car burns oil like no other and is not smooth due to the misfire. i need help. any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated. thanks.
Depends. The timing chain rattle caused by worn out guides can be dealt with and usually is not an "oh crap" immediate replacement. Folks go for thousands of miles with it like that.
Replacing that stuff at a shop will obviously be more $$$$$ than DIY but...
No matter how you choose to do it, may as well replace the water pump, thermostat and flush your cooling system while you're there.
Replacing that stuff at a shop will obviously be more $$$$$ than DIY but...
No matter how you choose to do it, may as well replace the water pump, thermostat and flush your cooling system while you're there.
hey guys, noob here
hey guys, i just bought a 01 gle maxima and i LOVE IT, black on black, i just registered but been searching and lurking around here for a while. looking for any advice, thanks in advance.