Jim1231

Before the flush, It seemed like there was a little bit of water in the oil when I pulled out the wand. That is why I did the flush, when I did the flush, I discovered that the previous owner had already put a leak stop in

candt

Its been very hot in Wisconsin lately, so yesterday when I got in my car I turned the AC on. I then auto powered up my drivers side window. When it got to the top, it promptly went back down about 4 inches or so. When the AC was off, it wouldnt do it. Is there something wrong there, or is it supposed to do that?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

I am guessing that you have a 2002/2003model as that is a problem that bugs the models. Please tell us the year and transmission in the future as there are a lot of differences between the 2000/2001 modles and the 2002/2003 models.

Anyway, you need to adjust a switch in the drivers door. Read this thread:

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ction-fix.html

candt

Sorry, I completely forgot. Its a 2000 GXE, with an automatic transmission.

Just read that thread, and it looks like an easy fix. Thanks for the link, that is exactly my problem.

317

New guy here, just bought a 00 Maxima SE 5MT with just under 150k on Saturday to serve as my daily beater commuting 60 miles/day. The body and interior were good considering our where-abouts here but the thing runs like *****. There is a definate miss from idle on up that doesn't go away and the car has no power what-so-ever. Used this as leverage to get the price down leaving me with a little repair money that I hope will take care of the problems.

Went and had the codes pulled, they read something like this:

P0300 - Random Misfire
P1320 - Ignition Signal
P1130 - Swirl Control Valve Control Solenoid Valve
P0140 - Rear O2 Sensor High Input (Bank 1)

P1320 - Yes, it showed up twice...
P0300 - Yes, it showed up twice...

Went to download a manual but it seems there are two to choose from, the 2000 and the 2000.5. Okay, not sure which one I have...spent some time searching the forums and the car for any hints or clues as to which it could be. I'm leaning toward the fact that it's a 2000.5 because it has a manufacture date of 03-2000 and the VIN ends in YT758443. If anyone has a definitive answer I would appreciate it.

Now the problem is I'm not sure where to go from here...just need a push in the right direction.

Hoffm2ma

iTrader: (2)

The P1320 and P0300 are related to the coils and plugs most likely,since you are getting both, change the plugs and erase the codes to see if they comeback, if you don't won't to buy coil packs yet. Sometimes you will get another code like P0301, P0302, etc. to let you know what cylinder if you are lucky. You may want to check Cylinder 5 (which is the rear driver side) to see if there is oil in spark plug tube, this is a known problem.

The P1130 is probably a vacuum leak, check all of the lines and around the upper intake manifold for any leaks.

I say do a little tune-up, change spark plugs, air filter, clean MAF sensor, and change fuel filter (doubt it has ever been changed). Here are some good links to help you out (you should probably bookmark these):

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ow-w-pics.html

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...10-w-pics.html

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...up-thread.html

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ement-how.html

RR5

iTrader: (6)

Yes, I am a No0b! While swapping A/T valve bodies and solenoid assemblies, I seem to have lost a spring. The trans shop I sent the valve body to could not locate it.

This isn't the accumlator spring, the spring in question can be found in the FSM, AT-310 in the second tiny image. The Line Pressure Solenoid.

Funny thing is, I have not had any major problems. How in the world can I get a new spring? Or can I keep going without it??

317

Thank you Sir, I will do as instructed and report back ASAP.

TheDude00

Quick question time. I have a 00 5spd. Don't know if the tranny fluid has ever been changed just about to be 179000 on it. Do I swap the fluid and should I use regular or synthetic fluid?
No one I know can give me a straight answer. Some say yes, others no. All for different reasons. what do you all say?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

With that high mileage and not knowing if it's ever been done, I would use regular fluid. Also, I would do a drain and fill only, not a flush.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Regular or synthetic is up to you. Generally speaking, using a synthetic has a better shifting feel, but is more expensive. Just be sure to use a GL-4 fluid.

No harm can come to the trans from changing the gear oil, it's a good idea to do it if you don't know if it's ever been done.

How would you 'flush' a 5 speed, other than draining and filling?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Jeez - I completely missed the 5speed part. It's early on a Monday.

I was referring to the flush machines that certain shops have. Regardless, it's irrelevant with the 5spd.

TheDude00

Is GL-4 80W 90 for regular and 75W 90 for synthetic or is it a different weight?

5th gen dd

Edit: I figured it out last night. Thicker C shaped collars go in the rear as well as the collars with the sleeves. Sleeves face upwards. Much easier to do the fronts if you unbolt the control arms and just leave the ball joint attached. Only issue I had was the nut on one of the sway bar endlinks kept spinning and I had to cut the bolt to get it off.

I didnt think this was worthy of a new thread so I figured I would ask here. I got my subframe collars in from CarnalC30 yesterday and the package did not include instructions or diagrams like the FS thread states. I've already messaged him but he has not logged on since then and I am trying to do this today.

My concern is proper placement for the collars. Thanks to this thread http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...e-collars.html I know where they need to be installed but I am not sure as to which ones go where. I know the C shaped collars go in above the subframe but there are 2 different thickness. Any idea if the thicker ones go to the front or rear. Also for the bottom collars, where do the ones with the sleeves go as opposed to the pair that is basically flat washers? And do the sleeves go in facing up or down? Thanks in advance.

vball_max

iTrader: (5)

Hey guys...

I have noticed lately that the floor on the drivers side under the floor mats is getting wet everytime it rains. So it appears I have a leak somewhere that is leaking water beneath the mat. The top of the mat stays dry.

I am pretty sure its rain water because there was a period that I did not drive the car and it rained, and the floor became very wet.

Any idea where I should start looking for this leak? Is there a drain somewhere that might be plugged?

Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks.

5th gen dd

If your car has a sunroof there could be a clog or leak in the drain lines. I have seen sunroofs leak to where the water will run down the windshield pillar and drain to the floor. I'm not sure where the drain lines are for the 5th gen cuz sadly mine does not have a sunroof, only my 3rd and 4th gen did. Best way to tell is to open the sunroof and look for any holes (usually in the corners) that could be a drain. You then need to trace the lines back to where the drain off is. Test the drain hole by pouring water into and following the water to the drain. You can usually locate the leak this way.

The other option is to softly blow air down the drain at a very low psi. Too high and you risk causing more work for yourself.

If it's not sunroof related, then it could be the windshield or cowl as well.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

The drain tubes run down the A pillars and exit/empty near the front door hinges. They're likely clogged.

vball_max

iTrader: (5)

Great.....thanks for the info. It at least give me a place to start.

Mattm3

Hey guys,

I have a 2003 se and after taking it in to get my tires changed I noticed my idle seems really low (like 400 rpm). Now I dont actually think that the tires had anything to do with the idle but thats when I noticed it.

I have the evap valve code, but I have had that for a while. I have tried resetting everything (I followed a post, it was for resetting 3 or 4 things), but my rpm's at start sit at 600 for a while then slowly tick down to 400. I dont know what else to try.

Also the car runs fine, it doesn't stall, hesitate or anything.

once it's at 400 if I press the gas it will rev up to whatever then stop at 600 and again slowly tick back down to 400.

Any ideas?

Edit: I forgot to add its an automatic

azmos1

I was told by the dealer when I bought my 00 Nissan Maxima it needed a few items. First the rear valve cover is leaking. I've read tons of posts, Is it fine to keep my current valve covers because they're aluminum and just replace the gaskets? Or do I need to replace the valve covers with 2004 gen6

Arsen

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys, got a question.

Few days ago all 3 of my brake lights stoped working, once in 15-20 times that i prssed brakes, they worked. now they just stoped working.

Does any one have an idea of whats that might be?

thanks

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Have you investigated anything yet?

I'd start with fuses & bulbs. Then brake pedal switch.

Arsen

iTrader: (1)

Yes i did, fuses are fine, bulbs are good also. As far as brake pedal switch.. when the lights did go on, brake pedal had some clicking noise.
But now, there is nothing. tryed to scan the car, no codes.

vball_max

iTrader: (5)

Does the car idle smoothly at the 400 rpm, or does it sputter and have difficulty running? Are you sure the idle was higher before the tires or is this a new obsevation? The odometer readings in that range arent very precise, so if its idling smoothly, I wouldnt worry about it. I've noticed my car idles pretty low as well, but it runs smoothly. I'll pay more attention on my way home regarding the actual idle rpms. I have an '03 6MT, but I would think the idle would be close on the 6MT vs. the Auto.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Clicking with electronics is a relay. The relay might have gone bad and is not engaging anymore. Find a used part from someone parting out their car, or hit a junkyard.

Arsen

iTrader: (1)

got it fixed guys, it was brake light switch! $40 including instollation.
Thanks for all your help.

seastone14

Will someone please explain how to properly wire led brake light bulbs so that i can stop getting the burnt out bulb warning light. I wasn't expecting to need more than one resistor but since there are 2 circuits it seems as though I may be wrong. It appears that both the brake light and the running light circuits will need their own resistors. If there is a way to use one resistor solely on the ground to eliminate this problem please let me know how to do it.

korrbe

Hello there. I have a very unique and interesting problem that just came up. I currently own a 2003 Maxima GLE. I bought a keyless remote from ebay and programmed it to my car. One day on my way out i realized that each time i pressed my unlock button my neighbor's 2006 350z's blinkers flashed! i tried it again and it did the same thing. apparently the same fob works for both cars. so i informed him and we both tried to reprogram our fobs at different times and different locations. no luck. his fob now works on my car as well! we tried programming them more than 4 times just to get the codes erased but no luck. disconnected my car battery for a while still no luck. has anybody experienced anything similar? any suggestions?

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

park in a locked garage from now on

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The key fob (remote) has a code built into it that the car learns to accept when you program it. It appears that the one you bought and your neighbor's have the same code built into them. About the only thing you can do is get another key fob and program it to your car which will wipe out the other key fob's code.

ctsmith39

iTrader: (2)

So I have been searching and I am not able to find anything on dropping the transmission or replacing the 1/2 moon seals on my 5th gen auto. I have a leak either at the upper oil pan or the RMS. The 3 auto shops i have taken it to say it is the RMS, but I am willing to bet it is the half moon but want to also do the RMS while I am in there as the car is at 140K miles.

RR5

iTrader: (6)

Not sure on this but the 4th gen might be somewhat similar to the 5th gen. Otherwise, check in the FSM for removal directions.

Paul Underwood II

1.Check engine light came on about 3 weeks ago and throttle started sticking and pulsating between 1100-1500 RPM's while stopped in a parking lot or at a light. Sometimes when I put it in park it jumps all the way to 2000 rpm's.

2 This morning, normal dry weather, mid-70's temp, turned a corner and SCS OFF and SLIP light came on and car started chugging like it had a clogged fuel filter or bad injector. But only did that on takeoff from a light. Took it home and parked it till payday. Any ideas or solutions. It's a 2000 SE with 165K on it. Thanks!

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Have the codes pulled. Autozone does it for free.

Sounds like it could be MAF or coils.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Get the codes checked and pray it's not the IACV.

mccpu

Inside the rear beam, there's a bar going across. Is it ok to jack up at that bar?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

I would jack by the beam itself. Don't risk bending the bar. Use a piece of wood if your jack plate is too small.

mccpu

yeah, my jack saddle is small so it fit between 'U' and I didn't know the bar was there until it was already jacked up...

Tootsie17

Everytime I accelerate and I get up to about 1500 Rpms my car makes a really annoying tinny buzzing sound.. I've had a mechanic look the car over and he said nothing was wrong with it. any thoughts ??

Tootsie17

Everytime I accelerate and I get up to about 1500 Rpms my car makes a really annoying tinny buzzing sound.. I've had a mechanic look the car over and he said nothing was wrong with it. any thoughts ??

It's a 2001 20th SE